eVic-VT mini?
- Thread starter Daisychainvaper
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hahahahha still works thou
and for some reason it also is the solution for people like me that hits the temp limit instantly
Yeah, it works.
I've been using it the past two weeks (never having Ti before) with my 40TC, xBrick II and Sig75 which don't have Ti modes. Works a treat.
I've been using it the past two weeks (never having Ti before) with my 40TC, xBrick II and Sig75 which don't have Ti modes. Works a treat.
Well, three hardware versions......could it be just the paint jobs?
Anyway, here at Spain it arrived this, two weeks ago (a black painted one):
And it is working flawlessly. I usually disregard the 'New coil/Same coil' message, if I'm watching the screen by chance, as I usually just unlock/re-lock the resistance via menu (three clicks procedure). I doesn't matter if I unlocked it with or without the new or old atomizer. It just works. And I use it for hours, changing batteries, and the room temperature - locked resistance is maintained. Obviously, the idle condition of the mod does not affect these results, and it goes on and on flawlessly.
Just a warning: when you change the battery, it shows the actual resistance -which may or may not be the locked one - and the padlock icon, if it was locked before extracting the battery, but after the first click on the firing button it changes to the locked resistance, which is stored somehow in non-volatile positions.
I've been using it with Aerotanks (hand made Ni-200 single coil heads), with an Ek v2 (clone of the Erlkönigin sold by Fasttech), with a Fogger v2, and with a Trident v2 and a Magma drippers. All, without any negative issues, working as they should, each one with its own quirks about flavour and vapour production. With the drippers it is simply awesome. With those RTA not so imppresive, until you try to run on the last fumes from them.
Only now and then I have to re-check the 510 connection, as I use a Smok AFC adaptor insulated from the mod with a neoprene washer to ensure no leaking would be entering the mods. Yeah, plural, the IPV D2 is in the same fashion. Unsteady or faulty connections do happen, and they must be fixed to properly engage TC mode. A too high measurement of the room temperature resistance always gets the same result: anemic vaping. But once you re-check it, it works well. The opposite is quite rare, and usually related to a faulty room temperature setting, when you think it is cold and it is not, and it is most likely to show a dry-hit, or at least a menacing nasty hit.
I think there were reports of trouble with some atomizers, like some versions of the Kayfun v4, because of unsteady connections varying the resistances measured in less that 0,1 ohm, but enough to get crazy TC results. Not my experience though.
The IPV D2 runs hotter (it needs less temperature set) than VTC mini, at least with nickel. IPV D2 is the 'SX130 v2.0' version/firmware. From my own measurements, I think that with the current firmwares, the IPV D2 uses a too high TCR for Ni-200 (beyond the 0,0065 mark) and the VTC mini a slightly too low (near 0,0055). But that's all, both provides excellent vapes in all my TC-enabled atomizers. I'd rather choose the IPV for the resistance locking action, but the VTC mini is better polished about user interface, except for the three clicks and left button choice, which would be difficult to overcome in any other way.
I've used titanium just in a pair of builds in the IPV D2, and it runs like the VTC mini in Ni-200, which adds some confidence about my TCR findings, if any.
That's the full unabridged report of my experience with the VTC mini. At this moment I should apologize to those who have been suffering any kind of troubles, as your follow-up calls clearly point to an actual problem, and not what I thought at first, a poor skilled/insufficient trained/manual not followed issue, which all of us have suffered, eager to start toying with our new hardware. Something is happening and I should be grateful for my good luck.
Here in Spain we say 'cuando el río suena, agua lleva', which is your where there's smoke, there's fire, and clearly there is a sizeable amount of 'fire' lurking in some units. You should understand that all that chit-chat about things that weren't on my personal, daily experience sounded a bit strange to me.
Joyetech should do something about this....it's a silly issue that potentially could ruin all the fame which this mod should gain, as it seems to point towards poor quality checks or different facilities mounting units, and at least one is risking a big-lemon-running-downhill gig. Maybe it is a hardware issue (510 connection badly soldered, poorly mounted?), maybe some unstable software that triggers the anomalies in a difficult way to diagnose them. But the gig is ensured to be an epic one if the issue is not taken seriously.
Anyway, here at Spain it arrived this, two weeks ago (a black painted one):
And it is working flawlessly. I usually disregard the 'New coil/Same coil' message, if I'm watching the screen by chance, as I usually just unlock/re-lock the resistance via menu (three clicks procedure). I doesn't matter if I unlocked it with or without the new or old atomizer. It just works. And I use it for hours, changing batteries, and the room temperature - locked resistance is maintained. Obviously, the idle condition of the mod does not affect these results, and it goes on and on flawlessly.
Just a warning: when you change the battery, it shows the actual resistance -which may or may not be the locked one - and the padlock icon, if it was locked before extracting the battery, but after the first click on the firing button it changes to the locked resistance, which is stored somehow in non-volatile positions.
I've been using it with Aerotanks (hand made Ni-200 single coil heads), with an Ek v2 (clone of the Erlkönigin sold by Fasttech), with a Fogger v2, and with a Trident v2 and a Magma drippers. All, without any negative issues, working as they should, each one with its own quirks about flavour and vapour production. With the drippers it is simply awesome. With those RTA not so imppresive, until you try to run on the last fumes from them.
Only now and then I have to re-check the 510 connection, as I use a Smok AFC adaptor insulated from the mod with a neoprene washer to ensure no leaking would be entering the mods. Yeah, plural, the IPV D2 is in the same fashion. Unsteady or faulty connections do happen, and they must be fixed to properly engage TC mode. A too high measurement of the room temperature resistance always gets the same result: anemic vaping. But once you re-check it, it works well. The opposite is quite rare, and usually related to a faulty room temperature setting, when you think it is cold and it is not, and it is most likely to show a dry-hit, or at least a menacing nasty hit.
I think there were reports of trouble with some atomizers, like some versions of the Kayfun v4, because of unsteady connections varying the resistances measured in less that 0,1 ohm, but enough to get crazy TC results. Not my experience though.
The IPV D2 runs hotter (it needs less temperature set) than VTC mini, at least with nickel. IPV D2 is the 'SX130 v2.0' version/firmware. From my own measurements, I think that with the current firmwares, the IPV D2 uses a too high TCR for Ni-200 (beyond the 0,0065 mark) and the VTC mini a slightly too low (near 0,0055). But that's all, both provides excellent vapes in all my TC-enabled atomizers. I'd rather choose the IPV for the resistance locking action, but the VTC mini is better polished about user interface, except for the three clicks and left button choice, which would be difficult to overcome in any other way.
I've used titanium just in a pair of builds in the IPV D2, and it runs like the VTC mini in Ni-200, which adds some confidence about my TCR findings, if any.
That's the full unabridged report of my experience with the VTC mini. At this moment I should apologize to those who have been suffering any kind of troubles, as your follow-up calls clearly point to an actual problem, and not what I thought at first, a poor skilled/insufficient trained/manual not followed issue, which all of us have suffered, eager to start toying with our new hardware. Something is happening and I should be grateful for my good luck.
Here in Spain we say 'cuando el río suena, agua lleva', which is your where there's smoke, there's fire, and clearly there is a sizeable amount of 'fire' lurking in some units. You should understand that all that chit-chat about things that weren't on my personal, daily experience sounded a bit strange to me.
Joyetech should do something about this....it's a silly issue that potentially could ruin all the fame which this mod should gain, as it seems to point towards poor quality checks or different facilities mounting units, and at least one is risking a big-lemon-running-downhill gig. Maybe it is a hardware issue (510 connection badly soldered, poorly mounted?), maybe some unstable software that triggers the anomalies in a difficult way to diagnose them. But the gig is ensured to be an epic one if the issue is not taken seriously.
Well I picked up the IPV D2 on the way home, set it to 400F/30J, put the KF4 on it I had as a demo for the error on the VTC. I vaped this all the way home without a single hitch.
I am a happy guy and will wait for a firmware fix for the VTC!
I am a happy guy and will wait for a firmware fix for the VTC!
I don't have any of the heads, I picked up the version without the Atomizer. I have not used a coil head of any sort in a long time.
It's my first night with it so I don't know if there are any issues with the D2, I have not found any yet.
Aesthetically I like the VTC better, the screen is excellent with all the live info, the D2 is pretty spartan but no more than my IPV 2S. The D2 fits the hand better and comes with a protective sleeve, but sleeves are available for both devices on FT or FC. The charge port on the D2 requires a cable that has a barrel jack on one end where the VTC is μUSB.
Regular Kanthal regulated mode on both devices is very good with the D2 going to 75W and the VTC going to 60W
The VTC has an excellent Bypass mode that almost turns it into a mech so to speak. If you put a fresh charged battery in with an RDA that has a 0.2Ω build in it, Bypass mode will allow you to put 88W into that coil just like a mechanical mod would. I am not sure how much protection is in that function so I would exercise the same caution that you would with an actual mech. A 0.13Ω build shows that it will fire that coil at 135W on the screen which I did not try since it would draw 32A from the battery. I personally wouldn't use Bypass mode with any builds lower than 0.2Ω depending on your battery.
The TC is where the D2 shines for me right now as my VTC has a problem. The designers of the D2 figure you would want to change the Joules(Watts) from the + & - buttons while vaping, where the VTC allows you to change the temperature which makes more sense.
Hopefully that answers you question, if not then ask away.
The extra coil that came with the ego one tank ,the reserve?the one with the red rubber?
At any rate you have titanium wires coming in,
Build a coil and go with ni mode,I assure you all issues we have had trouble with in the past went away..even the sleep thing,did a bunch of reading on the evic vt apparently they have almost the same issue,the weak vape thing....
sent from my evic vtc mini
I didn't get an Ego One tank as I bought the eVic VTC mini Express Kit, not the Full Kit. I had no use for an Ego One tank, all my tanks are rebuildable.
Yes indeed, as soon as my wire gets here I will definitely build a Ti coil and run it in Ni mode then report back here about it.
Wow wish I had read this forum before I purchased mine from the classifieds. I thought it was an awesome device based on you tube reviews now I'm not so sure. Haven't even received it yet and I'm already suffering buyers remorse. [emoji47]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don't worry too much. Not everyone has trouble with it. The problems I do have don't prevent me from getting a great vape. I might have to set it to 550 degrees to get the vape I otherwise get at 450 sometimes but I don't see that as a deal killer. It looks great and feels good in the hand. It has upgradeable firmware so maybe these glitches will be fixed soon.
In the same boat. Can only hope that we aren't plagued w these problems and that joyetech releases a fw update to solve them in a timely matter.
If everyone reports their issues to Joyetech, rather than sit and hope, they will be much more likely to institute corrections.
Don't expect problems, but if anything weird happens let us know. Maybe we can find a solution or workaround together.
I'm having exactly the same problem. Found few methods to get it to fire properly at any temperature but it would eventually
return to the same problem after i leave it for few minutes in which i have to painstakingly repeat the process again and again.
The unit that i have is exactly the same as yours series. "Y08040"
Someone should start a thread on the Joyetech forum about this problem and link back here so we can all chime in with our "I'm having the exact same problem posts". If you also write to any of the support emails post your email back here so we can all do the same. After that ball is rolling we should get @Daisychainvaper to revise the opening post linking these posts. Or did you want to start a new "eVic VTC Mini - TC Issues and Possible Resolutions" thread, putting all this info there?
Like @Tpat591 says the faster we get this info back to Joyetech the sooner we might see a fix. Approaching it as a group might also be better than random posts to their support forum.
Is there a Joyetech rep here on ECF? We can let them know too.
Like @Tpat591 says the faster we get this info back to Joyetech the sooner we might see a fix. Approaching it as a group might also be better than random posts to their support forum.
Is there a Joyetech rep here on ECF? We can let them know too.
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