eVic-VT mini?

[zeus01]

Can we flood joytech fb page regarding the issue?

" life is about making decisions and not looking back "

 

[ariffza]

I tested my Goblin Mini with kanthal build on a friend's D2 and it's running at almost half the power to get the same vape compared to my VTC. I usually run it at 25W on the VTC but on the D2 I only had to set it at 12W. It's either the VTC is underpowered or the D2 is overpowered. Either way, I wished I had gotten the D2 instead as running it at a lower voltage can surely extend the battery's life.

 

[cdrice15]

What a coincidence. I have the exact coils on my Crown with LG HE4 in my VTC as well. I had to power it up between 37W to 50W to get the best flavor out of this setup. As a consequences, my battery will only last for 2 hours max. I should've gotten a higher wattage mod for this Crown tank.

I thought I had heavy use when it came to vaping, guess not. I have been using the crown with the 0.25ohm coil in tc mode for Ti. Running at 240°f @ 40w. I use samsung 25r batteries and get about half a day, 8hrs, out one battery.

 

[chief63]

I tested my Goblin Mini with kanthal build on a friend's D2 and it's running at almost half the power to get the same vape compared to my VTC. I usually run it at 25W on the VTC but on the D2 I only had to set it at 12W. It's either the VTC is underpowered or the D2 is overpowered. Either way, I wished I had gotten the D2 instead as running it at a lower voltage can surely extend the battery's life.

yeah I think both are true. the mini runs cold and the D2 runs hot.

 

[Robert Stevens]

I tested my Goblin Mini with kanthal build on a friend's D2 and it's running at almost half the power to get the same vape compared to my VTC. I usually run it at 25W on the VTC but on the D2 I only had to set it at 12W. It's either the VTC is underpowered or the D2 is overpowered. Either way, I wished I had gotten the D2 instead as running it at a lower voltage can surely extend the battery's life.

The d2 doesnt buck, so a low power setting is getting much more voltage than you think

 

[Tpat591]

I tested my Goblin Mini with kanthal build on a friend's D2 and it's running at almost half the power to get the same vape compared to my VTC. I usually run it at 25W on the VTC but on the D2 I only had to set it at 12W. It's either the VTC is underpowered or the D2 is overpowered. Either way, I wished I had gotten the D2 instead as running it at a lower voltage can surely extend the battery's life.

It is literally both.

 

[scaredmice]

I had a really hard time trying to understand what your video was showing me, watched it twice and still don't get the meaning behind it. I am waiting for my Ti wire to get here from Unkamen and my old HTC takes really bad videos, so I'll see about making one when when my wire arrives.

In the video I show you three atomizers. A Fogger v3 with 0,08 Ω Ni-200 build, an EKv2 with 1,03 Ω kanthal build, and a Magma with a 0,16 Ω Ni-200 build. Firstly I put the Fogger, and force the mod to recognize it locking the resistance, and after that I unlock it and change to the Magma, which is recognized as a higher resistance one and prompts NCSC. After confirming new coil, it works, and then I change to the EK, which shows its resistance and at first click changes the mode from "Temp Ni" to "Power", just as it was expected.

Now the unexpected part, I swap the EK for the Magma again, and after manually changing mode to "Temp Ni", the mod does not ask NCSC, unexpected but announced by all of you who noticed it. Even swapping the Magma for the Fogger, which has even lower resistance, does not force the NCSC message, so I was forced to lock it. That proves your observations about a recognition of possible new coil (and prompt NCSC) only if you go from lower to higher base resistances. Then I fire the Fogger , properly calibrated, to notice that the resistances go from the base (0,08 Ω) to 0,16 Ω maximum, and that's right for 220 ºC, taking into account the rounding errors and absolute errors of those low resolution figures.

After that you'll notice a cut (my wife entered asking to run an errand) and then the testing of the main issue that you are seemingly suffering. I take apart the battery with the mod properly locked at 0,08 Ω, and the atomizer mildly hot. When I put the battery again it shows the actual resistance, higher than 0,08 Ω as it is not at base temperature. It shows 0,12 Ω, but once I press the firing button the correct locked base resistance is shown and continues to work properly.

I remind you that never had an issue if the atomizers are properly calibrated and I'm using the locking procedure, so what you see is my expected behaviour. Taking away the battery was a quick way of simulating your "go to sleep", and if my mod had worked like yours seem to do, if would have shown a lower base resistance after awaking. But it does not, never has done that. I wonder if you replicate that final part of the video with your low resistance atomizer, what would happen.

Along a day of use I change two or three batteries and the mod goes itself to stand-by/sleeping/screen off dozens of times, when it is not on 'stealth mode' and the screen is off except when I pass over the 10 seconds cut-off, when it goes on and stay in that way until it goes off like the stealth mode were off, just that time (going over the cut-off). And after 17 days never replicated your issues. As I told you before, my issues were related to improper calibrations, normally because the atomizer was not enough cool.

I tested my Goblin Mini with kanthal build on a friend's D2 and it's running at almost half the power to get the same vape compared to my VTC. I usually run it at 25W on the VTC but on the D2 I only had to set it at 12W. It's either the VTC is underpowered or the D2 is overpowered. Either way, I wished I had gotten the D2 instead as running it at a lower voltage can surely extend the battery's life.

Remember that the IPV D2 cannot go below 3,6 V in regulated, Power (VW) mode. According to Dirk Oberhaus' measurements, it drifts down the 3,6 V a bit, but not enough to get the low wattages asked for if your resistance is not below 1,85 ohm (the minimum to achieve 7W at 3,6 V) . My bet is, as you compared actual 25 W from the VTC to 12 W faked watts from the D2 in unregulated field, that you did that test with about 0,5 ohm on the atomizer....didn't you?

Once you stay in the regulated field for the IPV D2 (over 3,6 V), Oberhaus' measurements proves that both mods regulate very well, maybe a bit better the D2, but barely noticeable (1 W of drifting in 40 W is really difficult to notice), and the IPV D2 shows an impressive (75,0 ± 0,1) W mark when it is asked to give 75,0 W, and that's with a 20A/3000 mAh battery (the brown LG). But the D2 must be set over 3,6 effective volts (and under 7 V) to do so.

 

[VapingTurtle]

that is exactly what I have to do. crank it up or the vape sucks. and it still hits TP to fast, disappointing.

This I don't understand.

OK, if it is giving you poor vape something is wrong either with the mod or your build. Got it.

But complaining about it hitting TP too fast... what's that about??? It is supposed to be set at a high enough wattage to hit your set temp very quickly (half a second, plus or minus), then back way off to just enough power to maintain that temp. When it is at your set temp it displays "Protection". If you don't want to see that, don't use TC.

 

[Jesse Wright]

Postman brought mine to the door today. Mega tank w ni coil reads .19 ohms. No other wire yet. Put it on and messed w the settings. Ni mode is off by about 68f so had to crank it up near 500 w 40w. So far after a few soft sleeps the resistance hasn't changed. Broke in the coil and it is giving a nice vape, similar to my drippers at .3, but colder. Hardware 1.03 L08053 no upgrade yet. Going to use it all day and post my findings.

 

[VapingTurtle]

It is supposed to be set at a high enough wattage to hit your set temp very quickly (half a second, plus or minus), then back way off to just enough power to maintain that temp.

And if you take a look at the real-time display of the resistance and you see that it is over-shooting your desired temperature's resistance immediately, back off on your wattage setting. Your initial power burst is too high.

 

[TrollDragon]

But complaining about it hitting TP too fast... what's that about??? It is supposed to be set at a high enough wattage to hit your set temp very quickly (half a second, plus or minus), then back way off to just enough power to maintain that temp. When it is at your set temp it displays "Protection". If you don't want to see that, don't use TC.

I'll take a stab at this to see if I can explain it, when it hits the TP within a half second that is when the anemic vape sets in.

I'll take the mini and put on a tank with a 0.15 ohm NI 200 build, the mini detects the resistance as such and I lock it in. I can set the temp to 430F/25W and vape away happily with all the warmth and vapor production of a Kanthal build. In this mode if you quickly tap the fire button a few seconds after your vape has cooled, the temperature that shows up in the window starts at 70F. You can vape this till the tank is dry without the TP ever showing till the tank is dry. You can watch the power and temperature fluctuate while you vape.

Here is where the problem kicks in. Once the mini goes to sleep it comes back with a 0.11 resistance on the screen. The lock is still there and you take a vape, the temperature immediately climbs to TP and the power drops to 4W or a similar small value. You let it sit a few seconds and quit tap the fire button again, instead of the 70F from the previous example the temperature now starts at 180F, next tap is 230F, let it cool and tap the button for a 142F... These are all numbers I have seen, not exact values.

After the sleep with the TP kicking in within a half second the vape is very anemic as the power level is hovering in the 5W range and you can feel that in your vape, the temperature will cool slightly, the power kicks back in again to 15W and TP hits it back to 4W.

I imagine it would be hard to visualize without it actually happening to you. If you crank the mini up to 550F after the sleep you will get a half assed vape but it is still no where near the initial 430F/25W proper vape.

Unlock, remove the tank, hit the button a few times put the tank back on after it cools. It sees a 0.15 ohm reading again, lock it in and vape away at 430F/25W without it hitting TP instantly and you are back to a good vape.

Does this explain what we mean by an anemic vape?

 

[chief63]

This I don't understand.

OK, if it is giving you poor vape something is wrong either with the mod or your build. Got it.

But complaining about it hitting TP too fast... what's that about??? It is supposed to be set at a high enough wattage to hit your set temp very quickly (half a second, plus or minus), then back way off to just enough power to maintain that temp. When it is at your set temp it displays "Protection". If you don't want to see that, don't use TC.

It hits TP then turns into an anemic POS

 

[zeus01]

I think it has to do with calibration
Because when I froze my atty and mod
Now everything is working OK...
Everything is working OK,
I still get that anemic vape,once in a while but when I checked my wick was almost dry...

I froze my atty on the freezer and the mod in the bottom part of the fridge..normal room temp resistance of my coil prior to freezing was 0.27
Now it locked to .25



" life is about making decisions and not looking back "

 

[AlaskaVaper]

What a coincidence. I have the exact coils on my Crown with LG HE4 in my VTC as well. I had to power it up between 37W to 50W to get the best flavor out of this setup. As a consequences, my battery will only last for 2 hours max. I should've gotten a higher wattage mod for this Crown tank.

This sounds typical, I imagine. my setting is 35W and temp at 270F. It is a fabulous vape however. I think the marketing strategy is to push the single 18650 models until sales fall off then roll out the dual 18650 model using a slightly larger form factor. After that who knows maybe a dual26650 model or the original VT with its fabulous 5000mah LiPo. Personally I would go for the Lipo as I have several of those and if they had the upgradable firmware option that would be perfect. Koopor- a subsidiary of Smoketech is about to roll out the Koopor plus with two 18650's as a follow up to the widespread sales of the Koopor mini. I imagine Joytech will follow that pattern. Shineyitis afflicts most of us vapers I am afraid. LOL

 

[scaredmice]

I'll take a stab at this to see if I can explain it, when it hits the TP within a half second that is when the anemic vape sets in.

I'll take the mini and put on a tank with a 0.15 ohm NI 200 build, the mini detects the resistance as such and I lock it in. I can set the temp to 430F/25W and vape away happily with all the warmth and vapor production of a Kanthal build. In this mode if you quickly tap the fire button a few seconds after your vape has cooled, the temperature that shows up in the window starts at 70F. You can vape this till the tank is dry without the TP ever showing till the tank is dry. You can watch the power and temperature fluctuate while you vape.

Here is where the problem kicks in. Once the mini goes to sleep it comes back with a 0.11 resistance on the screen. The lock is still there and you take a vape, the temperature immediately climbs to TP and the power drops to 4W or a similar small value. You let it sit a few seconds and quit tap the fire button again, instead of the 70F from the previous example the temperature now starts at 180F, next tap is 230F, let it cool and tap the button for a 142F... These are all numbers I have seen, not exact values.

After the sleep with the TP kicking in within a half second the vape is very anemic as the power level is hovering in the 5W range and you can feel that in your vape, the temperature will cool slightly, the power kicks back in again to 15W and TP hits it back to 4W.

I imagine it would be hard to visualize without it actually happening to you. If you crank the mini up to 550F after the sleep you will get a half assed vape but it is still no where near the initial 430F/25W proper vape.

Unlock, remove the tank, hit the button a few times put the tank back on after it cools. It sees a 0.15 ohm reading again, lock it in and vape away at 430F/25W without it hitting TP instantly and you are back to a good vape.

Does this explain what we mean by an anemic vape?

O.K., let me crunch some numbers to see if it has some sense.....

I'm going directly with the tables.....lazy enough to pick up a calculator, even if I'll do it anyway and it'll be on the screen computer.... My laziness will get demonstrated in a short time, you'll see it....

i) You put a 0,15 Ω Ni-200 in the tank. Let's assume that the TCR for Ni-200 is exactly 0,00575 1/ºC, as we do not know yet for sure which one has picked up Joyetech in this iteration of the firmware. That number came up from actual resistance values. You lock it and set 430ºF/25W. According to the theory, you've set it to a R/R0 ratio of 2,150 (that's the value for 428ºF).

Aw! I might put the tables and my own writing on Spanish decimal notation. When you see a ',', that's our decimal point. We seldom use the point '.' to separate thousands, even if we might use it. Yeah, just the opposite of you.....Spain is different! Once you've set your spreadsheet in that convention, it's harder (but not so much, I'm lazy) to change it....

Well, where we were? Ah! 2,150 ratio means that the mod should lower or cut off power when it sees the resistance go up to 0,32 Ω. And you placidly vape on enjoying the view. and then you leave the mod unattended and it goes off/sleep;

ii) And it wakes up, sporting an apparent locked resistance of 0,11 Ω. With that wrong base resistance but the same ratio (you haven't changed anything yet) the mod should limit power at 0,24 Ω or before, and of course, it does so.

But 0,24 Ω over the real base resistance (the resistance has not been changed, only the mod thinks so) is a new, wrong ratio of 1,6 and that one matches about 257 ºF (1,604 ratio).......and surely breaks your placid sweet spot into nothing meaningless. Anaemic vape!


O.K., theory supports your experience (normally it should be quite the opposite, but who cares?), and now that we understand quantitatively what is happening, I think it's high time to record a nifty video showing this and throw it to Joyetech customer care, to see what happens...

...let's hope they fix it, and doing so, they do not break down our well-behaving units......

 

[ariffza]

This sounds typical, I imagine. my setting is 35W and temp at 270F. It is a fabulous vape however. I think the marketing strategy is to push the single 18650 models until sales fall off then roll out the dual 18650 model using a slightly larger form factor. After that who knows maybe a dual26650 model or the original VT with its fabulous 5000mah LiPo. Personally I would go for the Lipo as I have several of those and if they had the upgradable firmware option that would be perfect. Koopor- a subsidiary of Smoketech is about to roll out the Koopor plus with two 18650's as a follow up to the widespread sales of the Koopor mini. I imagine Joytech will follow that pattern. Shineyitis afflicts most of us vapers I am afraid. LOL

Are you running your Crown SS coils on Ti TP mode? I'm vaping mine at your setting right now and its giving me a nice cool vape.

 

[Jesse Wright]

Been using it all day just upgraded fw. Seemingly no problems. Anyone experiencing problems on 1.03 hw? Multiple soft sleeps on offs battery removal. No change in initial 1.9 res. Time on mod shows over 7 minutes? Used total about half battery. Not bad battery life, but I didn't have heavy use today. Usually one charge a day w mech. Very pleased w the purchase. Shipped out on Sept 23 or 27 I think. Bypass does show voltage drop, maybe not real voltage applied but it does change in bypass mode.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Been using it all day just upgraded fw. Seemingly no problems. Anyone experiencing problems on 1.03 hw? Multiple soft sleeps on offs battery removal. No change in initial 1.9 res. Time on mod shows over 7 minutes? Used total about half battery. Not bad battery life, but I didn't have heavy use today. Usually one charge a day w mech. Very pleased w the purchase. Shipped out on Sept 23 or 27 I think. Bypass does show voltage drop, maybe not real voltage applied but it does change in bypass mode.

If you're at 1.9 ohm, you're not using TC, where all (?) the issues are.

It's a bangin' little 60w VW mod. Using mine right now with a factory 0.2 Kanthal head in a tank. Works great.
TC? Not so much.

 

[mc8]

For what is worth: i have to put my mini at 300'C with goblin mini, with aromamizer rdta its fine on 200'C?

 

[AlaskaVaper]

Are you running your Crown SS coils on Ti TP mode? I'm vaping mine at your setting right now and its giving me a nice cool vape.

Yes, I am using the Crown in Ti and 35W 250F I am getting a nice warm vape with those settings. My firmware is ver 1.03.