EVOD head prototype mod for Billet Box only.

[ThreeDJ16]

Holy crap Big D, this thing is a monster. I can hardly see the screen to type for the billowing vapor clouds. All I can say is wow, and I am just using the factory head coil and wick. If it gets better, not sure I can take it.

Now I did things a little different and found a way to simplify a couple of steps. First off I did use a tubing cutter and broke apart a Boge, but by the time you are finished with it, there is nothing left for the carto top to stick back on (I assume on your device, the tube slips back over the shoulder??). So instead I thought, why can't we just leave the carto completely in tact, remove the guts, push out the pin, drill it with a #20 bit (which makes it a tight fit with the head top) and then solder the head top back on from the outside instead of the inside. Worked perfect. I also did not use a torch. From the days when I could build my own home theater interconnects (pre-HDMI), I took one of those 100-200 watt gun type soldering irons and removed the solder tip. Then just put the solder tip posts in direct contact with the interconnect terminal pots, pull the trigger and almost instantly it melts the pots with solder perfectly. Did the same technique here. Fitted the head top into carto tube with base still intact, fluxed it and fed a little solder to it while pulling the trigger....bam, instantly soldered perfectly. Cleaned it up, fit it to other parts, cut length to measure up to standard carto and now I am in vapnirvana! FREAKN SWEET!

Will upload my pics later when I get home. Provided I can see to do so.

Thanks again. Will be building 2 more for my other tanks very soon. If you have the right stuff, you can build one in half hour or less.

Oh yeah, also built the official, patent pending, home made carto removal/insertion tool today too. It was so easy to build, you can do it in under 10 minutes. Will start a new thread and upload those tonight too!

-=J

 

[Big Screen D]

Wow, sounds like a nice technique improvement Drunk!

Can't wait to see the pics dude.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Wow, sounds like a nice technique improvement Drunk!

Can't wait to see the pics dude.

Later tonight or tomorrow, after I have had a chance to chill for a bit (and drink plenty of beer), I will take it back apart and take pics of the exploded view. But for now, here is one I built today. Also, I wondering about modifying the 510 male to 510 female adapter slightly different. I am loving this so much that I want one for my XL tanks on the Provari. Thinking of maybe just popping out the adapter through pin, drilling a shape to match the ARO head and shortening the through pin to keep the male threads. That way it could go in my existing Loki and IBtanked setups.

Anyway, here are the first pics I took earlier.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Oh yeah, here is a link to my carto insertion / removal tool.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...arto-insertion-removal-tool.html#post10970140

 

[Big Screen D]

Heck of a nice build there Drunk. When we sober up, do tell how you gutted the Boge.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Thanks D!

Pfft, who am I kidding, once I start with my beer (which is 3,2,1..now) there won't be any more pic taking and the sorts. So decided to go ahead and do it.

Basically on the boge, I just took some long heavy tweezers (hemostats would be perfect here), reach down the open end, grabbed out the cotton, then went in again and grabbed the coil and twisted till it popped. Took a punch tool (any tool or gizmo with right diameter will work) and popped the pin in from the bottom threaded end (not very hard...no hammer required). Used tweezers again to grab out that pin insulator too. A number 20 drill bit is the perfect size for the ARO head top to very snugly go back through that hole.

Here is x-plodded view pic! I left it full resolution. Oh yeah, it looks a little funky in high res as I literally just pulled it out of the tank, so it is wet....nothing else. But cool, the solder almost looks TIG welded with the little pattern on it...haha...but no, that is solder.



Oh, one more addition for anyone building who is not familiar with soldering. Preclean = good, flux everywhere you want solder to flow = very good, brush & solvent to remove flux = oh yeah unless you want some nasty sheeeeet in your juice. I just used a lead free standard spool silver solder, it's just what I had. Hell, as old as my home is, there is probably leaded solder in the copper pipes. I might get robbed now, for my piping..haha.

 

[Big Screen D]

Very cool J. I see you left the 510 slots. I take em down since I'm afraid the silicone gasket will deform and leak over time. Be nice to be able to skip that step, so interested to see how it goes.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Very cool J. I see you left the 510 slots. I take em down since I'm afraid the silicone gasket will deform and leak over time. Be nice to be able to skip that step, so interested to see how it goes.

Hahaha, I screwed that up. Didn't have access to this thread when I was building it today. So I have been screwing that thing on fairly loose and wondering why yours doesn't looks so bulbous in places like mine does when tight. OK, note to self, wake up at some point during the daylight hours tomorrow and grind that sucker out! Duh, knew I had to get something wrong spitballing it like that.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Well, didn't get a chance yet to grind down those slots. Shouldn't take but a sec with a dremel, just really don't want to take the Condor out as it is working so well. Like I mentioned, just tightened it enough before the silicone deformed and really haven't seen any leaks yet. So due to laziness and this being my one day off until next weekend, going to run with it as is for now!

I ordered several more of those adapters which will hopefully show up tomorrow. Going to build two more and maybe try something a little different with at least one of them. Why in the crap didn't I just order a dozen of the things instead of keep paying shipping and buying them 2-3 at a time??? Oh well.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

OK Big Screen D, made up another adapter. See if this is closer to what you're wanting from a milled base. This is what I did. Ground down the slots (like I forgot to do on the first one). Pushed the center pin out of the adapter. Instead of 7/32 drill, I used 3/16 drill and did so from the male threaded end. This bit doesn't removed any metal from the shoulder on the male end and the insulator on the ARO head pin fits perfectly down into this hole. You can go one size bit larger, but figured the tighter size would aid in stopping any leakage from threads (if there was any). Lastly I used a dremel and cut off the threads above the air holes, then used the dremel again to grind down to mid way of the air hole. That seemed to be a good height to stop and about even with the ARO head pin when put together. Then I ground the original air holes into slots up to the base of the adapter, ensuring good airflow (probably wasn't necessary, as it is a very light draw). I can provide full rez of any of the pics, just saving a little space on the bucket account. Anyway, whatcha think?

Oh yeah, I have some SS tubing, 510 taps & dies coming. Let's see what kind of trouble we can get into with those!

Sorry, forgot to clean the dust off from grinding them before that pic...opps.

 

[Big Screen D]

Hah, two Georgia boys re-engineering Chinese stuff into premo vape gear. Southern engineering at it's best lol. Can't wait to see what you come up with when the taps and tubing comes in!

Had considered doing what you did D, but had two concerns. One was having enough adapter left to allow for some play up and down to not miss the O-ring. Seems not to be an issue though.

The other concern is having the positive pin, and that little positive coil leg so close to a dead short at the bottom of the adapter. Have to really pay attention to that positive pin wire to be sure it's flush.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Haha, that is funny. What Vapian stated in the BB thread, just wait a minute and they will have out a new model based on this...haha.

I was really nervous the first time I fired it off. But compared it to a regular carto and was pretty much the same. Battery protection should kick in if it is wrong...haha...I hope. Will see on that last part when I start rebuilding. Though the longer adapter isn't really buying much, other than getting to rest on the o-ring and taking some pressure off the pin. We will see how it goes.

 

[Big Screen D]

Anti condensation mod, mod. Cut from a 3ml pipette.

One of the flaws in the atty is the accumulation of condensate in the void between the stem and tube, as well as some juice accumulation that gets thrown up from the wick. Thinking here is less vapor travel past cool metal=less condensation, along with a taller stem to prevent any volcano action.

Side benefit seems to be a little more flavor. More concentrated?

Just did this a little while ago, so testing will continue starting with my morning coffee tomorrow.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Nice. Hope it works as I have noticed a couple of times when turning the BB upside down, a little condensate coming out the tip. Will make this addition this afternoon if you say it works.

Thanks!

 

[Big Screen D]

This pipette extension is a must do. I've vaped over half a tank today, and accumulated a grand total of two drops in the tube.

I sized it to where the top of the pipett extension came to the same height as the carto tube. Could even go a little higher to where the tube extends almost to, or even into the drip tip a bit the drip tip if for no other reason than I'm now convinced this extension boost flavor as well.

Gonna dub this one the Silent Echo anti gurgle tube.

EDIT: top of the carto tube only. Any longer and it won't fit since you can't angle the tank enough to get in the BB.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Great, I am definitely going to add this.

Just FYI, received my SS tube in today, but unfortunately the tap and die are coming from China which will take a bit. I really need to get off my .... and look at my current tool inventory, hell I might already have a M7 x .5 tap...haha. Know I have a metric set somewhere. The tubing looks great as I bought fairly thick wall to allow for interior tapping.

 

[SilentEcho13]

This pipette extension is a must do. I've vaped over half a tank today, and accumulated a grand total of two drops in the tube.

I sized it to where the top of the pipett extension came to the same height as the carto tube. Could even go a little higher to where the tube extends almost to, or even into the drip tip a bit the drip tip if for no other reason than I'm now convinced this extension boost flavor as well.

Gonna dub this one the Silent Echo anti gurgle tube.

EDIT: top of the carto tube only. Any longer and it won't fit since you can angle the tank enough to get in the BB.

Great name, hah.

I'm about to pull out a pipette now and give this a try. So far I haven't had much gurgling, just a bit which I "flicked" out, but this tube seems promising. I think it'll do a lot for flavor too like ya said.

 

[Big Screen D]

Great, I am definitely going to add this.

Just FYI, received my SS tube in today, but unfortunately the tap and die are coming from China which will take a bit. I really need to get off my .... and look at my current tool inventory, hell I might already have a M7 x .5 tap...haha. Know I have a metric set somewhere. The tubing looks great as I bought fairly thick wall to allow for interior tapping.

You thinking bout a top coil there Drunk?

 

[ThreeDJ16]

You thinking bout a top coil there Drunk?

Well, I actually bought the stuff before changing the drill hole size in the bottom 510 adapter. The thought was cut SS tubing to length matching bottom pin, tap and thread on in place of 510 adapter. But the last adapter I made is working so good and basically has double leak protection, not sure it is worth the effort. Though if rebuilding coils turns into a pain, as you mentioned needing more room around the pin, then it maybe worth the effort. But either way, we will have some tubing, tap & die to play with making whatever design we come up with. Don't forget I have a TIG welder if you think of something that needs welding too.

Also, installed the pipette tip last night, seems to be working great. Oddly enough, I see the flavor difference too. It seems a little stronger flavored to me. So I am guessing that is due to smaller air space for the vapor to mix with? Very nice. You can see the condensate in the plastic tube now. Thinking now about making this change permanent. Do you see any disadvantage to backfilling the space around the tube with pourable epoxy? Also thought maybe a coffee stir straw to keep the diameter consistent all the way up (don't have one handy to check if it is the right diameter or not).

Edit: forgot to add that I am not really familiar enough with a top coil design. I have a ZAP, it that something along the lines of what your looking for?

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Just kinda fartin' around this morning waiting to wake up, I took a longer portion of a pipette tip and stuck it down the same way, but put it on after the tank was in the BB. It is long enough and skinny enough that it sticks up into the shorty drip tip. But after putting on the brass screw and before putting on the drip tip, I inserted that silicone cup thingie (originally over the wick). So basically it now completely seals off the entire carto tube portion. No pic yet, gotta wake up more for that. Interesting how it really seems to concentrate the flavor or it could just be in my head (along with all the voices....haha).