Cool. Anyone up for a buy? Unfortunately there is a 10 piece minimum. I could definitely see some potential tinkering happening with those. Can you get a pic of down inside that middle adapter piece? Curious of how the connectors are setup.
EVOD head prototype mod for Billet Box only.
- Thread starter Big Screen D
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Looks like it should work with the evod heads. Thought you were using it for the mesh rba?
I have 2 of them. As for pics of the top guts here's what they look like. Dunno the cost of them as I traded some eras I drilled out for them
And the bottom
And the bottom
Evods don't have threading at the top where the carto tube has threads do they? I have protank heads that don't. I just prefer the evod ease of rebuilding.
ProTank and EVOD heads are almost identical, and are interchangeable.
Really, the head of choice now is the ARO heads. The rim is small enough on the ARO heads to pass through the tank opening. The ProTank and EVOD heads have to have the rim ground down to fit. More work, and exposes brass unnecessarily.
Really, the head of choice now is the ARO heads. The rim is small enough on the ARO heads to pass through the tank opening. The ProTank and EVOD heads have to have the rim ground down to fit. More work, and exposes brass unnecessarily.
Will look into this sorry i just was using what's around guess I am going to hang the tinkering up for the night. Thank you guys for the inspiration. Guess I will try my luck with those. Be a few days as I have none :/ hope I did help with my find of the screw in carto tube.
I don't mind tho grinding down the protank heads it's finding a head that has a 510 top connection head that requires no nr/resistance wire or I could make the condor with wicks that r a pita to replace
Nm actually the protank I'm using has no flange and the silicone ring at the top of the head actually seals the 510 screw on tube. So think its ready to fly. If so I may later add a reduced 510 to 901 connector with the center pin pulled and sanded down to fit. If all works tomorrow evening I did it without solder and just fitting together parts. Good thing about the mod is that you can turn the tank upside down push the tube just a little and replace the head as the wick just bearly gets into the tank. Fingers crossed. Sorry for all the question just thought I would need more help but after I gone done I used no drrmmel, or other tools. Here's the finished product with out the bottom connector trimmed. It will lose about 1/3 to 1/2 of the bottom section so wicks should be at bottom of the tank completely.
The bottom would work I believe without the 510 connector but in doing so I will be using a dremmel and sand paper.
I'm sorry I am using the evod heads in the last picture. I saw no need to grind down. At least fasttech said they were evod lol
I am pretty sure the heads I am using will not work for you. If I am looking at it and reading this right, you need threads on the top and bottom side of your coil/wick head? The ARO head I am using only have threads on the bottom side.
BTW, rebuilding the coil and wick is nota PITA. Literally I had never done it before until here, with Big Screen D's condor. Not even the first one took more than a few minutes and we have the advantage of going with a vertical micro coil. Make a quick 14 or so wraps on a 20 gauge needle, compress it with old tweezers, hit it with a torch (faster) or a lighter (slower), drop it in place, replace pin and pack in a little wick....done. I love how the wick is exposed verses the Diver style wick inside tube. Way less dry hit potential.
Anyway, good luck and anxious to see how it turns out.
BTW, rebuilding the coil and wick is nota PITA. Literally I had never done it before until here, with Big Screen D's condor. Not even the first one took more than a few minutes and we have the advantage of going with a vertical micro coil. Make a quick 14 or so wraps on a 20 gauge needle, compress it with old tweezers, hit it with a torch (faster) or a lighter (slower), drop it in place, replace pin and pack in a little wick....done. I love how the wick is exposed verses the Diver style wick inside tube. Way less dry hit potential.
Anyway, good luck and anxious to see how it turns out.
I do need coil head top that's 510 and bottom that like a regular evod/protank or that new one you just mentioned and easy to rebuild or I will I think if this doesn't work just recreate what you all have done. I have 2 divers just really like the evod head system and a challenge. Btw Thank you all again for the input and contributions to help others and inspire people like me.
And as for building coils. I do prefer to build my own just dislike the use of nr wire/ resistance wire to nr wire. I wish some one out there would just create a rebuildable carto that takes small screws. If I could solder at all lol I would do it myself but I am terrible/ useless at it. I want so badly to create
Which a site sales but have never seen in stock at http://modinfrance.ecwid.com/simple-store#!/~/product/category=3714817&id=22089117
Which a site sales but have never seen in stock at http://modinfrance.ecwid.com/simple-store#!/~/product/category=3714817&id=22089117
And as for building coils. I do prefer to build my own just dislike the use of nr wire/ resistance wire to nr wire. I wish some one out there would just create a rebuildable carto that takes small screws. If I could solder at all lol I would do it myself but I am terrible/ useless at it. I want so badly to create
Which a site sales but have never seen in stock at http://modinfrance.ecwid.com/simple-store#!/~/product/category=3714817&id=22089117
That thing is sweet.
Why do you feel it is a requirement to use nr-r-nr wire setup. Straight nr is a negligible power loss for the gain of ease. But if you feel it is required, I have a pico 3 wire welder in my mailbox waiting for me. I will review it soon and post how to get one. Or you could buy the wire premade by resistance value.
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True. I just think the diver works better with the combo. Never could get the right about of vapor from it without doing it. My creation failed me so starting from scratch and building the condor from your first instructions as we speak. I don't have aro heads just evod and tools so wish me luck. And actually right now I am having a diver feeding problem. It's just not wicking fast enough. Think it's a pg to vg ratio thing?
So the EVOD heads you have from Fast Tech will fit through the tank opening? The Kanger heads rim are just a little to large to pass through the tank opening, so they are probably clones. Which is good thing in this instance.
With the vertical micro coil build, there is no need for NR legs at all. I'm running my best micro build to date right now. 11 wrap 28ga Kanthal over 1/16" bit with hemp fiber fill. I trimmed back the rubber grommet just a bit, and have the coil almost right against the positive pin so that it is deeper in the cup than what I've been building. Just an incredibly good vape, and the wicking has been spot on from full to nearly empty. Major juice hog though.
Good luck with your build Cifitzu. Let us know if you run into any questions.
Wanted to add. On a vertical micro coil build, both legs are imbedded in saturated filler all the way to where they hit the connector. So that, along with the naturally cooler legs of the micro coil does a good job of keeping the grommet from burning. With this last one I did with the coil very close in, when the time comes for a dry burn, I plan on putting a couple of drops of water into the cup which will settle into the void above the grommet and keep it from scorching.
With the vertical micro coil build, there is no need for NR legs at all. I'm running my best micro build to date right now. 11 wrap 28ga Kanthal over 1/16" bit with hemp fiber fill. I trimmed back the rubber grommet just a bit, and have the coil almost right against the positive pin so that it is deeper in the cup than what I've been building. Just an incredibly good vape, and the wicking has been spot on from full to nearly empty. Major juice hog though.
Good luck with your build Cifitzu. Let us know if you run into any questions.
Wanted to add. On a vertical micro coil build, both legs are imbedded in saturated filler all the way to where they hit the connector. So that, along with the naturally cooler legs of the micro coil does a good job of keeping the grommet from burning. With this last one I did with the coil very close in, when the time comes for a dry burn, I plan on putting a couple of drops of water into the cup which will settle into the void above the grommet and keep it from scorching.
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Okay after taking another look at the rebuildable cartos I have I started a project today building that and a condor. Should finish both tomorrow to compare the two. The 1st evod style and the second well idk what you would call it style. Lol post pics tomorrow.
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