EVOD head prototype mod for Billet Box only.

[Big Screen D]

Yeah, that's pretty much what I'm planning for the vertical J. It will of course need to have the long tails to bring the juice up.

Only question is will the tails be able to keep the coil packing wet enough as the tank approaches empty. Only one way to tell.

I'll probably give one a go tonight once things quit down around here. Spousal unit is all nutted up cooking Thanksgiving dinner lol.

Been married 33 years. Mans gotta know his limitations and all.

 

[Cifitzu]

Well I know this is not the correct topic to put this info under but it's has come from my most frequent tinkerings lol. Anyways the diver that I shunned about a week or two ago I have been experimenting with it again an well not only did I fix any leaking issues but made the thing blow clouds I had not seen since the spheroid which inspired this build. I set up the diver as usual but pulled the top part of the wicking up a hair so it touched the spheroid type carto filler i wrapped around a 1/16th bit and pushed it down inside the tube. After priming it with a few drops and making sure my drip tip did not put too much pressure down on the batting. I was blown away. Never a dry hit, never a leak and I could fill a room with clouds. Now I do have a drip tip from captivape that does the a7oid thing and it works with the same principal but guys I'm serious when I say it made the diver a new rba for me. Just thought I had to share my new findings with everyone. Happy thanks giving everyone!!

 

[Big Screen D]

Well I know this is not the correct topic to put this info under but it's has come from my most frequent tinkerings lol. Anyways the diver that I shunned about a week or two ago I have been experimenting with it again an well not only did I fix any leaking issues but made the thing blow clouds I had not seen since the spheroid which inspired this build. I set up the diver as usual but pulled the top part of the wicking up a hair so it touched the spheroid type carto filler i wrapped around a 1/16th bit and pushed it down inside the tube. After priming it with a few drops and making sure my drip tip did not put too much pressure down on the batting. I was blown away. Never a dry hit, never a leak and I could fill a room with clouds. Now I do have a drip tip from captivape that does the a7oid thing and it works with the same principal but guys I'm serious when I say it made the diver a new rba for me. Just thought I had to share my new findings with everyone. Happy thanks giving everyone!!

That sounds similar to the build that Dan was using with the BB RBA he was/is working on. Sort of a wick moisture regulator if you will.

Sort of funny that both this build, as well as the vertical builds I'm using emulate a carto in many ways.

 

[Big Screen D]

Well all righty then. We have a top coil vertical blowing clouds.

First build I put together much like I've been doing with the bottom coils, but was a total fail. Worked great until I vaped through the primer, then smoked hemp. Ripped it apart, and re-wicked. This time with much less filler, and rather small diameter tails through the juice passages. So far, so good. Yep, vertical coils rule. Much better vape than the horizontal.

What remains to be seen is whether or not this wick set up will continue to feed when the tank nears empty. I do not know whether or not it will work if the tank is filled above the wick without flooding or leaking...yet. Figured I'd see how well it does filled from the wick to empty first, and give the hemp a little time to swell before trying out a fully filled tank.

Head is 2.8 ohm coil. Running this one at 5.3 volts with some tasty HHV Georgia Peach Tobacco. Is a juice I know well, and thus far the vape is excellent.

Getting the atty into the tank is a minor pain. Getting it out is a royal PIA. Have an idea for a removal tool. Let y'all know how it works when I pull this one.

Pic of how it's wicked. This is the first failed build, working build is the same just less wick both around the coil and through the juice passages.

This is how I get the base in.

Here is the atty base ready for docking with the top stem.

 

[Big Screen D]

After working nicely for a couple of mls, I started having wicking problems and the dreaded hemp roast recurred.

Going to try a hemp twine wick and see if that works better.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Maybe multiple strands?

Just FYI, made another change on the standard condor. Will post some pics when I am off for a few days. But basically thought of a much easier way of making the standard Condor which will fit in a standard tank as well as the BB tank. Don't know why I didn't think of this before going building a pin, but anyway just trim the top portion of the 510 adapter more instead of trimming the threads. Then just drill out the 510 adapter pin collar to match the threaded end hole. Fits perfectly and just uses the ARO head pin. Will not fit in a tank with thick end flanges like Loki, but fits perfect in an IBTanked or BB tank. Pics hopefully tomorrow evening.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

OK, here are some pics of my second build of a Condor that fits other tanks. This one fits the BB or a standard size carto tank with thin flanges. The 510 adapter has been ground only on the female threaded side and slight countersink added for ARO gasket to fit snug. No pin building is required as the ARO head pin fits out the bottom (after drilling and grinding).

Also changed up my coils building a little (no pic, just info). Swapped to using a 4-40 machine bolt to wrap coil. Flame with lighter, then compress with tweezers, torch it and drop in water. Using 12 wraps of 28 gauge Kanthal. These coils are awesome.

Anyway...pics!

 

[eris667]

Just saw these on MV
DCT Pro Coil

 

[thejager]

wonder if they make a flangless version...

 

[Big Screen D]

OK, here are some pics of my second build of a Condor that fits other tanks. This one fits the BB or a standard size carto tank with thin flanges. The 510 adapter has been ground only on the female threaded side and slight countersink added for ARO gasket to fit snug. No pin building is required as the ARO head pin fits out the bottom (after drilling and grinding).

Also changed up my coils building a little (no pic, just info). Swapped to using a 4-40 machine bolt to wrap coil. Flame with lighter, then compress with tweezers, torch it and drop in water. Using 12 wraps of 28 gauge Kanthal. These coils are awesome.

Anyway...pics!

Nice change up there J. I didn't think that enough material would be left to make a seal at the tank o-ring, but obviously there is. Like it.

Looks particularly useful variant for those who want a more restricted draw since it would appear the air path comes through the pre-drilled holes in the 510 adapter. Have to watch that the positive lead is nice and flush to insure that it can't short against the adapter body.

Could also make a longer stem for use with the longer dual coil tanks.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Yeah, I had to grind the 510 adapter very slowly to get it in the ball park first. Then I used the countersink bit (dremel makes a similar bit), which is slower, to fine tune the pin flush and get the gasket seal spot on. I also drilled the collar out of the 510 adapter to the same size diameter (#3 bit) as the barrel where the male thread are located, so it is nice and roomy. You could also open up the air hole pretty easily, but I think the draw is fine.

 

[Big Screen D]

For the select few who are using these in your BB, take a look see at post 317 on this page: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...d-aro-evod-protank-heads-32.html#post11542942

This little modification fixes any consistency issues. Just a beautiful vape.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Been a while for any posts on this thread, time to change that. I am still getting a lot of juice in the upper part of my tube even with the gurgle tube addition. It eventually leaks back out into my BB. Not the best solution, but keeps it out of my BB, is to wrap the gurgle tube with filler material. I just used the stuff salvaged from all those cartos who gave their lives in the making of the Condor. Needs rinsing out or changing every few days, but better than cleaning it out of the BB.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Been a while for any posts on this thread, time to change that. I am still getting a lot of juice in the upper part of my tube even with the gurgle tube addition. It eventually leaks back out into my BB. Not the best solution, but keeps it out of my BB, is to wrap the gurgle tube with filler material. I just used the stuff salvaged from all those cartos who gave their lives in the making of the Condor. Needs rinsing out or changing every few days, but better than cleaning it out of the BB.

Hey I made it to the party LOL
A SS tube 26mm x 9mm with a 4mm hole will fix your condensation problem and allow the juice to run back to the coil. Easier to slap another ARO head in there, just slip out and slip in. I did find the answer to my question as the ARO heads do make one similar to the Pro Tank that have the metal tube. The ARO heads I looked up did not have this tube extension like the Pro Tank heads. But with the ARO I dont have to grind the flange

Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok, proposed top piece made out of 316 SS for about 5 bucks if I order 100. This would reduce weight and allow for more space for juice in the tank.

The 7mm top piece would ensure wiggle room for oring mating, and the bottom would slip fit a ARO coil head.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok concept design...

Dan

 

[Big Screen D]

Looks good Dan.

I think the tube should remain striaght tho. The BB tank o rings are really tight, and that extra ledge that has to pass through would make inserting the atty a little harder, and adds another opprtunity to damage the o rings. Also, have them put a good bevel where it mates to the stem for the same reason.

And yes, when they work right, they are great!
ll
I'll find you the link for the heads when i get home on my pc this evenng.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Looks good Dan.

I think the tube should remain striaght tho. The BB tank o rings are really tight, and that extra ledge that has to pass through would make inserting the atty a little harder, and adds another opprtunity to damage the o rings. Also, have them put a good bevel where it mates to the stem for the same reason.

And yes, when they work right, they are great!
ll
I'll find you the link for the heads when i get home on my pc this evenng.

Ok I modified the design as I was thinking the same thing:

Hows that?

Oh I already ordered 5 packs of ARO heads, do you know what the tube OD is? the kangers are 4mm, any way you could mic one?
Dan

 

[mikeulon]

Subscribed!

 

[ThreeDJ16]

It is 4.1 mm, but that is to the outside with those little fins which give pretty easy. So 4mm would probably work.

Also, a bit more of an hour glass design would be gentle on the BB O-rings and yet give more juice. Like the Diver v2 Enzels (or however you spell it).

I got several things to post, but anxious to finish my DNA 30 box exterior. But the short of it is I drilled out the inside diameter of the chimney cup, which is soldered directly to the upper tube (gutted carto) and that took out the chimney all together. So then I drilled the inside of the tube with a larger diameter drill to chamfer the inside towards the hole. Works really well and will funnel all the juice back down. Only kicker is it really needs a horizontal coil instead of a vertical to catch the juice. Let me catch up and I will post some pics.