EVOD head prototype mod for Billet Box only.
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This has me wondering rather or not this would work in a standard carto tank? Any thoughts to that idea?
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no need gutter it works very well in my opinion. it says protank but uses evod heads $6.47 X10 Protank Atomizer with DCT Tank (4.0ml) - blue / 2.4
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Sorry for the delay answering your question guttter22.
Yes, this can be used in a normal tank if you're so inclined. As has been pointed out, there are several alternatives available off the shelf for DCT's, but for standard length tanks, not so much.
I've been running these in two of my five Billet Box tanks for a little over a month now, and they are working extremely well. I use one with the infamous carto killer juice Boba's Bounty, and the other my fav NLV Gold. Just using carto's for the other three change up juices, while waiting to either source a SS base and or an off the shelf alternative.
With the introduction of the new SmokTech ARO heads, this little mod just became a lot easier to build. And the heads can be replaced with out any modification to the head! Plug and play. The ARO heads can be rebuilt just like the Kanger heads, but because the rim is smaller than the Kanger heads, it fits without needing to grind down the rim so it can pass thru the tank opening.
Also the ARO heads fit perfectly fine in the atty mods I originally make with the Kangers. I'm also quite impressed with the coil build in the ARO. I wouldn't touch the Kangers without re-building it first, but I'm using two of the ARO's with the stock coil and wick. No dry hits, leaks, and flavor good.
I have been unable to source any SS 510 adapters. I had tried several different 510 adapters (which is used to make the base) but all that I had tried were just a little too thick in diameter and had to have the chrome plating ground off in order to fit. Good news is Discount Vapors 510 adapters are of the correct diameter and work beautifully for this purpose.
The end result is a bottom coil atty for use in the Billet Box, that is easier to make, and heads that can be replaced OR rebuilt depending on preference. Takes a bit of time to make, but once done, the body should last for years.
Parts list.
510 adapter: 510 to 510
ARO heads:Smoktech ARO/Tumbler Coil head replacement - 3.0ohm - 5 pack
And you'll need a SmokTech DCT carto to dissect.
Only tools I used was a hand drill, disc grinder, round file, flat file, pliers, and some 600 sandpaper. A drill press, and bench grinder would be easier, but are not necessary. Oh, and a micro torch.
The first thing to do is to pull the connection end out of the dual coil carto. Grip the carto flange with a pair of pliers, and wiggle the pressed in 510 connection out of the tube. While this can also be done with the carto screwed into a substantial mod such as a Provari, you have to pull pretty hard to get this end out, so don't blame BSD if you strip out your mod threads...use pliers first.
Used carto with the connection removed from the tube:
Removing the connection guts leaves the little press in part that is used to hold the cup stem.
Next put a little e-juice for lubricant in the same end of the carto tube the connection came out of. Place the carto in your drill, and chuck gently. Using a flat file, spin the carto and grind off the flange until it looks like below. I would have preferred to use a non-flanged carto for this step, but all the ones I have are Boges, and they will not pull out. Perhaps a non flanged Smok carto will?
Dual coil carto with the flange ground off. The connection is ready to be removed from the carto tube now by screwing into a mod and wiggle and pull. Easier this time with the juice lube job.
Before and after pic of the press in connector with the head stem ready to be attached. AFTER pulling the 510 connection out of the carto tube, grind down the 510 threads to just below the little air holes insuring it's nice and flat. The inside hole will need to be enlarged a tad with a round file such that the stem slides in snugly.
Here's the connector and stem filled with lead free solder paste ready to be soldered. The solder will not be in direct contact with juice, but do use the right solder. Clean the flux residue off before installing into the carto tube. Should have shiny metal, and no "solder smell" when clean.
Home Depot or Lowes...can't recall.
Next, cut and grind down the tube insuring the cut/ground off end is square. Cut length is 25mm. DO CHECK that the overall length from positive pin to tube end is 40mm when assembled before making the final cut adjustment.
Here it is all ready to go in the tank. Note I leave the silicone head gasket in place. Tried without it thinking it wasn't needed, but even though it looked leak proof into the tube, I was getting some juice up in the tube. So use it.
Insert atty into the tank from the top, align, fill and enjoy. Use a long filler type drip tip and push out the tank top to bottom to remove.
Also the ARO heads fit perfectly fine in the atty mods I originally make with the Kangers. I'm also quite impressed with the coil build in the ARO. I wouldn't touch the Kangers without re-building it first, but I'm using two of the ARO's with the stock coil and wick. No dry hits, leaks, and flavor good.
I have been unable to source any SS 510 adapters. I had tried several different 510 adapters (which is used to make the base) but all that I had tried were just a little too thick in diameter and had to have the chrome plating ground off in order to fit. Good news is Discount Vapors 510 adapters are of the correct diameter and work beautifully for this purpose.
The end result is a bottom coil atty for use in the Billet Box, that is easier to make, and heads that can be replaced OR rebuilt depending on preference. Takes a bit of time to make, but once done, the body should last for years.
Parts list.
510 adapter: 510 to 510
ARO heads:Smoktech ARO/Tumbler Coil head replacement - 3.0ohm - 5 pack
And you'll need a SmokTech DCT carto to dissect.
Only tools I used was a hand drill, disc grinder, round file, flat file, pliers, and some 600 sandpaper. A drill press, and bench grinder would be easier, but are not necessary. Oh, and a micro torch.
The first thing to do is to pull the connection end out of the dual coil carto. Grip the carto flange with a pair of pliers, and wiggle the pressed in 510 connection out of the tube. While this can also be done with the carto screwed into a substantial mod such as a Provari, you have to pull pretty hard to get this end out, so don't blame BSD if you strip out your mod threads...use pliers first.
Used carto with the connection removed from the tube:
Removing the connection guts leaves the little press in part that is used to hold the cup stem.
Next put a little e-juice for lubricant in the same end of the carto tube the connection came out of. Place the carto in your drill, and chuck gently. Using a flat file, spin the carto and grind off the flange until it looks like below. I would have preferred to use a non-flanged carto for this step, but all the ones I have are Boges, and they will not pull out. Perhaps a non flanged Smok carto will?
Dual coil carto with the flange ground off. The connection is ready to be removed from the carto tube now by screwing into a mod and wiggle and pull. Easier this time with the juice lube job.
Before and after pic of the press in connector with the head stem ready to be attached. AFTER pulling the 510 connection out of the carto tube, grind down the 510 threads to just below the little air holes insuring it's nice and flat. The inside hole will need to be enlarged a tad with a round file such that the stem slides in snugly.
Here's the connector and stem filled with lead free solder paste ready to be soldered. The solder will not be in direct contact with juice, but do use the right solder. Clean the flux residue off before installing into the carto tube. Should have shiny metal, and no "solder smell" when clean.
Home Depot or Lowes...can't recall.
Next, cut and grind down the tube insuring the cut/ground off end is square. Cut length is 25mm. DO CHECK that the overall length from positive pin to tube end is 40mm when assembled before making the final cut adjustment.
Here it is all ready to go in the tank. Note I leave the silicone head gasket in place. Tried without it thinking it wasn't needed, but even though it looked leak proof into the tube, I was getting some juice up in the tube. So use it.
Insert atty into the tank from the top, align, fill and enjoy. Use a long filler type drip tip and push out the tank top to bottom to remove.
Great Idea and modding.
Just a thought, maybe the next phase....
Would a slimmer chimney instead of the carto tube provide a more focused vape - and be more in line with the BCC attys like the Evod, Aro etc.
And it would free up more capacity in the BB tank. The carto tube size is only required at the ends for fitting.
Very tempted to give this a go when my BB arrives.
Nib
Just a thought, maybe the next phase....
Would a slimmer chimney instead of the carto tube provide a more focused vape - and be more in line with the BCC attys like the Evod, Aro etc.
And it would free up more capacity in the BB tank. The carto tube size is only required at the ends for fitting.
Very tempted to give this a go when my BB arrives.
Nib
Slimmer tube may well be a good idea to try. Definitely doable.
I can't tell any difference between a Pro Tank vape and this mod, but I haven't tried both side by side with the same juice, same coil so there may be some plus or minus to the larger tube taste wise. One advantage the larger tube has is there is a larger condensation trap, which works well to prevent the dreaded gurgle.
Some may find it a bit on the airy side, though I've become used to it, and have come to prefer it the less tight draw. Have a couple of ideas, and will work on that maybe this coming weekend.
In any case, definite improvement to a filler carto IMHO.
Next thing I want to work on is a top cap Genesis. Thinking DID mini size atty base and cap outside, with tank inside.
Something like this...
I can't tell any difference between a Pro Tank vape and this mod, but I haven't tried both side by side with the same juice, same coil so there may be some plus or minus to the larger tube taste wise. One advantage the larger tube has is there is a larger condensation trap, which works well to prevent the dreaded gurgle.
Some may find it a bit on the airy side, though I've become used to it, and have come to prefer it the less tight draw. Have a couple of ideas, and will work on that maybe this coming weekend.
In any case, definite improvement to a filler carto IMHO.
Next thing I want to work on is a top cap Genesis. Thinking DID mini size atty base and cap outside, with tank inside.
Something like this...
Very cool and thank you for sharing with the links. It is taking me a bit to put it all together in my head, but after seeing the parts in the links, think I understand now. Still a little fuzzy on how to rebuild the coil/wick though. If you had an exploded view of all the parts in alignment, it might make it clearer to noobs like me. But thank you again for your work! Definitely a must try as I like tinkering! 
-=J
-=J
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Keep in mind, unlike the EVOD and ProTank heads, the ARO heads don't have to be rebuilt. As far as rebuilding the ARO heads, they can be rewicked, and or recoiled just like the EVOD heads. Tons of threads on rebuilding the heads here on ECF. I'll link a couple tonight when I have a little time to look for them.
Anyone building, or wanting to build themselves one and is unclear on a step, just ask here and I'll try to clarify. Really is pretty easy to do.
Would be nice if someone with a CNC machine would spit us some out in SS. Hint hint DD.
Anyone building, or wanting to build themselves one and is unclear on a step, just ask here and I'll try to clarify. Really is pretty easy to do.
Would be nice if someone with a CNC machine would spit us some out in SS. Hint hint DD.
Thanks for the clarification. I am not really familiar with those heads, so just knowing it is already made for rebuilding explains a lot.
Totally agree with the last part too. And add a simple carto driver made from Delrin to the same list.
Totally agree with the last part too. And add a simple carto driver made from Delrin to the same list.
Here ya go Drunk.
This guy builds his similarly to the way I do. Haven't gone the micro coil route yet, but that'll happen this weekend.
Couple of differences. Going to want to use 30ga or 32ga resistance wire and keep the ohms up over 2ohms for the BB. I use a top wick much like the stock head to prevent flooding. I prefer hemp instead of cotton, though YMMV. Cotton is quite good too.
Much easier to get the wick through if it wet with juice first. Twist tight to get it through, then un-twist to fill the coil. Oh, and trim the wick close to the head so it can pass through the tank opening without getting snagged.
EDIT. Well duh, I didn't attach the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-s
This guy builds his similarly to the way I do. Haven't gone the micro coil route yet, but that'll happen this weekend.
Couple of differences. Going to want to use 30ga or 32ga resistance wire and keep the ohms up over 2ohms for the BB. I use a top wick much like the stock head to prevent flooding. I prefer hemp instead of cotton, though YMMV. Cotton is quite good too.
Much easier to get the wick through if it wet with juice first. Twist tight to get it through, then un-twist to fill the coil. Oh, and trim the wick close to the head so it can pass through the tank opening without getting snagged.
EDIT. Well duh, I didn't attach the link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-shttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-s
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For my Billet Box peeps. Take a look see.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-micro-coil-build-aro-evod-protank-heads.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-micro-coil-build-aro-evod-protank-heads.html
Couldn't get the end out of the flangeless Boge's I have. The DCC's I have are smoketech. I probably should have gotten a couple of flangeless Smoketechs with my last order to try. One of the trickier parts here. You can't deform the 510 connection, and I was only willing to pull so hard with the carto in my Provari. Would have decapitated any other mod lol.
If you figure out a way to use the non flanged version, post it man. Would keep from having to grind off the flange, and would totally eliminate exposed brass. Speaking of which, I figure it's not any more exposed brass than the connector inside a carto anyway.
If you figure out a way to use the non flanged version, post it man. Would keep from having to grind off the flange, and would totally eliminate exposed brass. Speaking of which, I figure it's not any more exposed brass than the connector inside a carto anyway.
510 adaper
ARO heads
spent carto as discussed
lead free solder
micro torch
flat and small round files
mm ruler
sharpie
bench, angle, or sanding disc for the drill.
Think that's it!
Cool. Tools, no problem. Nice, they had some ceramic wicks at the store you linked to, so had to grab a few of those while I was there. Man, that dude shipped my order like 5 minutes after placing it....jeez...I am going to have to tell him to shape up as next time I want it in 3 minutes...hahahaha!
Anyway, I have pulled apart Boge cartos before. What I did was use a tubing cutter around the tip end where it connects. That loosened it enough to pull right out. I will experiment with it some, so I can give a better description than that. But yeah, no bigger just to grind it either. Should have the parts soon, so now I just need the time off to do this (or guess I could just do it at work...hahaha).
Thanks!
So you cut the tube off first? And once out, the pressed in end can be pressed back in the other side of the tube?
Really wish I had kept that carto, I did it for the BB thread when I was having issues with slotted Boge cartos tasting really nasty in the BB. Thought it was low ohm cartos, but then found the coils maybe shorting during heating as they were coiled on top of each other.
All I remember was using a tubing cutter real close to the end and before I cut all the way through, the base popped out of the tube. Guess the cutter, which it's squeezing action, popped out the base. Next spent carto I get, will try it again and post a more definitive solution. Don't remember, but pretty sure the base survived without being mangled too much in the process, can't remember if the tube survived. But from the looks of your build, we would only need a small piece of the tube anyway, in which this could still work out.
If something makes no sense in this post, it is 4am and I just woke up.....argh!
Yeah, doesn't mater what happens to one end of the tube since it gets cut/ground off anyway. BTW, the carto tube gets cut down to a hair less than 25mm.
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