EVOD head prototype mod for Billet Box only.

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Scubabatdan

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Yes, like a drip tip would. The intention was to prevent condensation and or juice from accumulating outside the tank. I've never seen any improvement with the newer top screw in that regard.

Depth is 2mm. OD measures 8.2mm. Measured with a rule. Someone needs to mic this to check my accuracy though.

Ok so if I go 8.5mm and 3mm depth we should be good for either style.
Dan
 

ThreeDJ16

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Ok so if I go 8.5mm and 3mm depth we should be good for either style.
Dan

Yup, those numbers work and give a margin of error. I get 2.25mm on the extended piece depth and 8.3 diameter. Standard carto is about 8.5mm. Probably better the recessed area be beveled in order to avoid a ledge in which juice can accumulate.



Edit.....removed statement about recess on old version brass screw.
 
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Scubabatdan

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Ok first vape on the new ARO adapter for the BB:



Dan

Added:
This was a stock ARO 1.8ohm atty running 5vdc. 5vdc was a little much so I backed it down to 4.3vdc and have been using it for about an hour. Great flavor and vapor, no gurgling, and no dry hits. Now I just need to remake the desin for the new BB threaded insert and we should be set with a working easy rebuildable design.
Dan
 
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Big Screen D

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Seriously Big D.....all the stuff you build and no digital caliper? ?? Notice I said digital. ....maybe they will come out with a talking version for you......hahah.... I know FU DJ. Haha... still funny.

What in the world would I use it for lol. I just eyeball and use a file!
 

Scubabatdan

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What in the world would I use it for lol. I just eyeball and use a file!

LOL, well now thanks to Don, we got ourselves a v3 of the upper tube, have a look.

IMG_1944_zpsff377288.jpg


IMG_1945_zps02570213.jpg


Just want to say thank you to everyone involved, defiantly a group effort on this design. With out Don we would not be where we are. Shout out to Drunk_J too for being on time with the micrometer.
The tube recess is 8.4mm ID and 5mm deep, just tried a standard drip tip and it is snug, wont go past the oring. And the inside is beveled as Drunk_J suggested :)
I think 8.5 would be pushing it, as this is my third attempt. First two blew out.
Dan
 
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ThreeDJ16

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THAT THING IS F!@#ing AWESOME! Perfect. Hell, at this point, we should just go ahead and make the ARO head too......kidding of course.....this project has turned out better than I could have ever expected. I think everyone should be proud and huge kudos to Dan for the serious lathe skills. Still hate you because you have way more and better tools than me.
 

Scubabatdan

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THAT THING IS F!@#ing AWESOME! Perfect. Hell, at this point, we should just go ahead and make the ARO head too......kidding of course.....this project has turned out better than I could have ever expected. I think everyone should be proud and huge kudos to Dan for the serious lathe skills. Still hate you because you have way more and better tools than me.

As bill the cat once said...

billthecat.jpg


Better?
HAHAHAHAHA
Dan
 
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Big Screen D

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Well thanks to Dan, whom without we'd still be eyeballing and filing these things. :)

So now we have really two improved versions to put through the paces. By tomorrow, we three will have both to compare performance with. Not quite the exact version 3 Dan just built, but the bored out, homemade ones Drunk and I have on hand are essentially, functionally the same.

Good times. Two excellent builds.

Gut instinct tells me the V3 will win on performance. Downside, is the concern Dan observed with the stock head flavor wicks tending to come out when the stem is removed. So we'll need to pull some heads apart and see if/how much of a PIA that would be for people that want to use factory heads.
 
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Big Screen D

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BTW Don the ARO heads you suggested work perfectly in this design, excellent find! And they work way better stock than the Kangers do. No more grinding heads for me!
Dan

Yep. They are really good stock heads. Like you, I rip the silica out almost always, but they are indeed well made.

Really is a stroke of luck that these are out there. Otherwise, with the Kanger heads, they would only be of use to coil builders. I don't mind a little brass here and there, but I draw the line at Silica wicks full of brass fillings lol.

FWIW, they do fit the Kanger products, so they can be used in protanks too. I keep a few of those around. Good to have a ProTank base to screw the heads into anyway to check ohms after a build anyway.
 

ThreeDJ16

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Hey Big D, those stock head loose a little wick even when you pull the apart with the stock chimney. And it is because they place some loose fibers on top of the coil. But if you aware and really careful, you can hold it in place to prevent or just put a new little piece on top if it happens. But as far as it being an issue when taking apart the v3 tube here, nobody should pull it apart until it is time for a new one. So I think just instructing people on that situation should more than cover it since it is possible to avoid.
 

Scubabatdan

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Ok, just got done redesigning in the CAD program with all the changes that were recommended, the total cost for 100 would be 1279.42 (that includes shipping) so cost per unit would be 12.79 + shipping to members. Not bad when all along I wanted the device to come in under 20 bucks but could never find a machine shop that could run my original design for less than 30.00. So we just need to see where the ECF management sits on this one. And if they will allow it to go forward.

Hows the name SABOT for the adapter strike ya'll? :)
HAHA get it "Strike ya" LOL

Dan
 
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ThreeDJ16

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Ok, just got done redesigning in the CAD program with all the changes that were recommended, the total cost for 100 would be 1279.42 (that includes shipping) so cost per unit would be 12.79 + shipping to members. Not bad when all along I wanted the device to come in under 20 bucks but could never find a machine shop that could run my original design for less than 30.00. So we just need to see where the ECF management sits on this one. And if they will allow it to go forward.

Hows the name SABOT for the adapter strike ya'll? :)
HAHA get it "Strike ya" LOL

Dan

Haha, I have a 120mm Sabot anti tank round (like the pic below) and it does look similar. Have also seen some with a conical tail instead of fins, which would look even more like it. Excellent price on the device too!

M735_Inert_Projectile-1.jpg
 
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