EVOD head prototype mod for Billet Box only.

[Scubabatdan]

Right. I use 30AWG in my Diver V1/2, because 28 is just too hard to fit with enough wraps to keep the resistance high enough. And I'm well aware of the amp limitation of the BB, but even 5.5V and 3A is 16.5W theoretically. I'm sure no one would run a Protank/ARO head at that wattage, which is why I was asking. I'm generally around 12-ish watts with a kayfun.

Yeah at 16.5 watts and 3 amps the little silicone rubber piece takes a beating
Dan

 

[finagle69]

If you decide to do the 1 week swap deal, put me on the list! lol.

 

[Scubabatdan]

If you decide to do the 1 week swap deal, put me on the list! lol.

LOL ok will do.
Guys we need to think about the plug and play design. I tested 5 different ARO heads from 5 different lots with the rev 3 version of the tube, 3 were tight as they should be, but 2 were semi loose. I think it would be easier on the end user to just use a drop in head with out needing to remove the upper pipe tube and there would be less compatibility issues. at least if the pipe tube is loose fitting I can crimp the top slightly so it is a little oblong to make a tighter fit into the hole of the upper tube. The top cup modification stays though.
I also feel we can do a straight 6mm tube rather than flaring it at the bottom.

Thoughts?
Dan

 

[finagle69]

LOL ok will do.
Guys we need to think about the plug and play design. I tested 5 different ARO heads from 5 different lots with the rev 3 version of the tube, 3 were tight as they should be, but 2 were semi loose. I think it would be easier on the end user to just use a drop in head with out needing to remove the upper pipe tube and there would be less compatibility issues. at least if the pipe tube is loose fitting I can crimp the top slightly so it is a little oblong to make a tighter fit into the hole of the upper tube. The top cup modification stays though.
I also feel we can do a straight 6mm tube rather than flaring it at the bottom.

Thoughts?
Dan

Squeezing a loose fitting stock head with a pair of pliers would work as well, though right?

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Right. I use 30AWG in my Diver V1/2, because 28 is just too hard to fit with enough wraps to keep the resistance high enough. And I'm well aware of the amp limitation of the BB, but even 5.5V and 3A is 16.5W theoretically. I'm sure no one would run a Protank/ARO head at that wattage, which is why I was asking. I'm generally around 12-ish watts with a kayfun.

True, but I am running almost 12 watts now. Another tip (from Big D), cut the inside lip off the rubber tips. Makes them easier to insert and remove, plus keeps the higher heat of the coil further from the rubber. But also the gauge kanthal would make a difference too.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

LOL ok will do.
Guys we need to think about the plug and play design. I tested 5 different ARO heads from 5 different lots with the rev 3 version of the tube, 3 were tight as they should be, but 2 were semi loose. I think it would be easier on the end user to just use a drop in head with out needing to remove the upper pipe tube and there would be less compatibility issues. at least if the pipe tube is loose fitting I can crimp the top slightly so it is a little oblong to make a tighter fit into the hole of the upper tube. The top cup modification stays though.
I also feel we can do a straight 6mm tube rather than flaring it at the bottom.

Thoughts?
Dan

I have been wondering that same thing myself. Was thinking of a way to adjust the base too, but yeah, for the plug and play folks, can't see an easier way.......but still thinking about it.

FYI, on tank two.....still chain vaping like crazy. Though I have still noticed the vape changes in the lower third of the tank, just like every other device similar I have used. Nothing horrible, but it is too crazy good on the top two thirds not to keep topping it off.

Any particular reason on removing the flaring? To me, anything that aids in pushing past those O-rings is a positive attribute. It takes so little to damage those O-rings and most people don't even know theirs have been damaged (until they complain about leaking).

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Squeezing a loose fitting stock head with a pair of pliers would work as well, though right?

The one I am using now is loose. No problems. Not sure if having that little silicone cover thingie is also acting as some form of gasket for the looser tube or not, but will be removing it later to see.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Here is the design for v4 top tube I was thinking about...

Dan

 

[HwyApostle]

With out a stop ridge would there be a risk of over inserting it? Possible coil damage or shorting out?


Sent from the open road using Tapatalk.

 

[finagle69]

Here is the design for v4 top tube I was thinking about...


Dan

Looks nice and simple. The silicone gasket would need to stay to act as a seal correct?

 

[Scubabatdan]

Squeezing a loose fitting stock head with a pair of pliers would work as well, though right?

Yes but to make it appealing to a novice user that just wants to slap another in, it just became more "involved"
Plus you can over squeeze these and now you have a ruined atty.

Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Looks nice and simple. The silicone gasket would need to stay to act as a seal correct?

Correct, it would be pressed against the silicone cover when tightened, would help stop juice entering the tube.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

With out a stop ridge would there be a risk of over inserting it? Possible coil damage or shorting out?


Sent from the open road using Tapatalk.

No you would not remove the ARO pipe tube, this would slip over the pipe, and seal against the silicone cover like v2 did.

Will make one tonight and show pics.
Dan

 

[HwyApostle]

Correct, it would be pressed against the silicone cover when tightened, would help stop juice entering the tube.
Dan

Ok I get it now. For some reason I thought it would go inside the head sleeve. My bad sorry


Sent from the open road using Tapatalk.

 

[Big Screen D]

May need to add a few a few thousandth's with just a slight taper at the end? Seems to me if the head is loose when mated to the SABOT, then it''ll be loose on a stock stem as well.

One thing I don't care for with the stem is the cruddy chrome job the co on that part only. Have some concern with flaking off when pulled in and out of the top tube.

Have more thoughts both ways, but going into a meeting now.

 

[Scubabatdan]

May need to add a few a few thousandth's with just a slight taper at the end? Seems to me if the head is loose when mated to the SABOT, then it''ll be loose on a stock stem as well.

One thing I don't care for with the stem is the cruddy chrome job the co on that part only. Have some concern with flaking off when pulled in and out of the top tube.

Have more thoughts both ways, but going into a meeting now.

True, have to think about that.
Dan

 

[Big Screen D]

Here is the design for v4 top tube I was thinking about...

Dan

Without the flare, I think it would tend to lift the cup edges when tightened down. Peeps have a tendancy to crank that top screw down tight getting the atty or carto into position.

Just playing devils advocate on my phone under the table in a boring meeting

 

[Scubabatdan]

Without the flare, I think it would tend to lift the cup edges when tightened down. Peeps have a tendancy to crank that top screw down tight getting the atty or carto into position.

Just playing devils advocate on my phone under the table in a boring meeting

I will test it out, and see if it needs to be widened. Good Point!
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok you asked for it, here is a link to the sign up list for a 1 week shared ownership of a SABOT-DDD, first come first served. This will be a version 2 or 4 after I do some crank testing tonight LOL
I will send it one to the next person on the list, and they will use it for one week and send it to the next person on the list etc...

We will see how this works. At least we will get a variety of users and expertise level responses I hope.

Ok without further adieu...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-weekly-share-sabot-ddd-rba.html#post12806157

Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Without the flare, I think it would tend to lift the cup edges when tightened down. Peeps have a tendancy to crank that top screw down tight getting the atty or carto into position.

Just playing devils advocate on my phone under the table in a boring meeting

Hey I just checked my kanger protank v2, it only has a 1mm lip for mating to the silicone seal. I think it might be ok, I will see tonight.
Dan