Experienced vision eternity users - please help!

Status
Not open for further replies.

TwistedThrottle

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 18, 2014
603
2,882
Washington
My vision eternity tastes burnt! All I've used it for was an ego dripper and I'm pretty sure I've melted or scorched something in there because it always tastes burnt. I've torn it down and rebuilt it several times using a couple different methods, cleaned it, even cut the wick out under the spike thing in the top. From my understanding, the spike and wick within the spike is only a functional part when using the carto tank option. Is there a way to remove the spike wick completely? It seems like it's clamped in there. I tried tweezers and had to get pliers to get most of it out and cleaned up with scissors but there's still a little chunk of wick clamped in there that might be what's giving the burnt flavor. Also, I tried rebuilding with the included coil, wrapped my own 1.6-1.9 ohm coil using 36awg (3 wraps) around silica and even XC-116 ceramic wick but I'm still getting red coils even tho the wick is fully saturated and watts turned way down low. Someone, please help. Have I found the end of an eternity or is it user error? Thanks!
View attachment 368314View attachment 368315
 

Stosh

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 2, 2010
8,921
16,789
74
Nevada
I'm not a vision eternity user but have fought with a large number of different cartos, clearos and tanks over the years. If you're getting red coils even tho the wick is fully saturated there's a few possibilities.

First if the wick is too small to fully touch the coil for the e-liquid to cool it you will get red coils and burnt taste.
Also if the wick is too big, compressed and can't wick up enough e-liquid to cool it as the eliquid is vaporized you will get red coils and burnt taste.
Then if the air flow isn't sufficient to keep the coil cool you might not get red coils but still a burnt taste

If you are re-coiling and re-wicking, you might try using some cotton in place of the silica or ecowool. Try more and less to see what works best and keeps the coil from lighting up red. It's cheap and you can replace it frequently with different sizes to see what might work best.

The silica or ecowool (my preference for re-wicking) is a bit trickier to get the proper amount to wick properly and not flood the coil.

Let me know if this helped and how you make out....:vapor:
 

TwistedThrottle

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 18, 2014
603
2,882
Washington
Thanks for all the help. I do have lots of RDA's and usually vape on them, (my favorite right now is a Cerberus 26650 tricoil at 0.3 ohms sitting hybrid style on a hades) but found this eternity in a box I havnt opened in a while and wanted to perfect this one too. I look forward to trying some of the tips after work. Thanks again!
 

TwistedThrottle

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 18, 2014
603
2,882
Washington
Stosh-
Is there any reason that only 3 wraps is my issue? I'm of the mindset that the more surface area, the better so I'm usually turning 7-12 wraps sometimes even twisted. But what I got with the eternity was another build already threaded on the studs and they used 4 wraps on 4- 1mm silica strands. I tried replicating that but I think they used 38awg and I got 36. The problem is u gotta use light gauge Kanthal because those studs hold the wire in place on the posts over the air hole. Too thick of wire, you can't get the studs on the post with the wire in too. I was thinking of trying to turn a parallel coil (probably not even possible with such light wire) to get 2x surface area but then it would be sub ohm with light gauge wire on an ego batt. Something doesn't sound right about that. Another option might be using ribbon wire. I'm thinking I can get my 7 wraps and still have something that'll work with that dang post stud issue.
 

TwistedThrottle

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 18, 2014
603
2,882
Washington
I mean this in the nicest way possible.....but you should probably get a different RDA. Just sayin ;)

When it's working right, it's quite a cool little unit. It holds 45 drops in dripper mode. 45 drops!!! I can ONLY fit 40 drops in my Cerberus and it's like 50 times bigger!
 

Stosh

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 2, 2010
8,921
16,789
74
Nevada
Stosh-
Is there any reason that only 3 wraps is my issue? I'm of the mindset that the more surface area, the better so I'm usually turning 7-12 wraps sometimes even twisted. But what I got with the eternity was another build already threaded on the studs and they used 4 wraps on 4- 1mm silica strands. I tried replicating that but I think they used 38awg and I got 36. The problem is u gotta use light gauge Kanthal because those studs hold the wire in place on the posts over the air hole. Too thick of wire, you can't get the studs on the post with the wire in too. I was thinking of trying to turn a parallel coil (probably not even possible with such light wire) to get 2x surface area but then it would be sub ohm with light gauge wire on an ego batt. Something doesn't sound right about that. Another option might be using ribbon wire. I'm thinking I can get my 7 wraps and still have something that'll work with that dang post stud issue.

I'm of the mindset that the surface area of the coil is only useful if all of it is touching enough wick, and the wick can resupply the eliquid fast enough as not to dry out...:) I've done coils with 30, 32, 34, 36 gauge wire, and if the entire coil stays damp with liquid, not sloppy flooded, they work well. Getting the right balance of air flow, e-liquid and heat has worked better for me, never needed huge wattage or sub-ohm to get a nice warm thick vape.

Using an old school 901 pre-built atty was good experience builder. Too much dripping and it leaked out the side hole, too little and dry hits, just right and the flavor and vapor was perfect. Then you had to re-drip it without letting it get too dry and not flooding it, tricky but worth it....:)

Sub-ohm on an eGo battery would be a non-starter, I destroyed one of mine that was a few years old with a too low ohm coil.
 

TwistedThrottle

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 18, 2014
603
2,882
Washington
You should be able to slide that wick out of the spike by sticking the end of a paper clip through the slots and working it down.
Maybe try having one side of the wick further down in the well might help also.

Good call on the paper clip. Couldn't find one small enough so I used a sewing needle. I jammed that sucker straight down the spike and was able to wiggle the wick out and I found black burnt nasty goo on the end of the wick. Now that the pointless wick in the spike is gone, it seems to taste much better! As far as leaving one longer than the other- I tried that once when I accidentally cut the wick too short and it couldn't keep up with the burn. Both wicks (sides) have to be in the juice cup to keep up so one side doesn't dry up and start burning. Thanks for the help!
 

TwistedThrottle

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 18, 2014
603
2,882
Washington
So I did a couple more builds and think I got a winner! 36awg seems to light to do anything above 6.5 watts and even there, u get 3 toots before u gotta wait for it to cool and rewick. Did 5 wraps of ribbon wire on 4 strands of 1mm silica (easier to get a precise length) and now I'm vaping at 22 watts at 0.8 ohms on my 26650 seven30. Looks ridiculous with the size difference but it works. The unit gets hot after 10 toots but not burnt! Works well at 11 watts on my MVP too and not hot or burnt, but too low for my ego. Thanks everyone for the help on this one. Still room to improve on the eternity but it's back to enjoyable for me!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread