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Fasttech CE6 not living up to expectations

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Feedbacker

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I just picked up a few CE6 clearomizers (these specifically https://www.fasttech.com/products/1361205) and I'm not sure how I feel about them. Compared to the CE6 (or so I was told) I picked up locally a while back, the draw is much harder, the vapor production is less, and there's almost no taste or throat hit. I use the same liquid at all times, and I can use the different clearos back to back and notice a major difference. Did I get some bunk CE6s or is there a break-in time I forgot about? These are brand new, so I figure I'll let them soak with liquid over night before getting too bummed, but I just wanted to make sure I wasn't expecting too much out of these.

Thanks in advance.
 
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danny4x4

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Doesn't look any different from CE5 to me.
You probably got some heads with higher resistance compared to your old clearomizers.

1) Try increasing the voltage if you have a variable voltage device. If you don't, then press the fire button for a second or two before you vape. It's only a stop gap measure.

2) You would have to recoil the head to get your desired resistance. Don't worry, take your time to explore the different delivery systems and recoiling if you have just started.

3) I would suggest you try bottom coil clearomizers like kanger t3s, evods and protank. I wasted money in the beginning buying CE5 in bulk when I first started. I thought at that time that they were the best delivery system for the price. I've since changed my mind.

As for the tight draw, check if there are 2 flavour wicks (they just sit on top of the coiled wicks). Maybe they are blocking the air flow? Try removing one. Other than that I can't think of anything else, except maybe widening your centre post.
 

Feedbacker

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Doesn't look any different from CE5 to me.
You probably got some heads with higher resistance compared to your old clearomizers.

1) Try increasing the voltage if you have a variable voltage device. If you don't, then press the fire button for a second or two before you vape. It's only a stop gap measure.

2) You would have to recoil the head to get your desired resistance. Don't worry, take your time to explore the different delivery systems and recoiling if you have just started.

3) I would suggest you try bottom coil clearomizers like kanger t3s, evods and protank. I wasted money in the beginning buying CE5 in bulk when I first started. I thought at that time that they were the best delivery system for the price. I've since changed my mind.

As for the tight draw, check if there are 2 flavour wicks (they just sit on top of the coiled wicks). Maybe they are blocking the air flow? Try removing one. Other than that I can't think of anything else, except maybe widening your centre post.

Interesting. How can I check the resistance? I have one VV eGo-type, just bumped it up to the 4.2v setting and that's almost what I'm used to. It looks like one has one flavor wick, the other has none, assuming the flavor wick is always routed on top of the coils. Not surprised if that's the case. I'll yank one out and see if there's a change. Thanks.

If all else fails, I have some Vivi Novas coming in the mail.
 
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danny4x4

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Using a multimeter, one lead to centre post (look at the back end of the clearo, there's a post in the middle) other lead to the sidewall.
Rereading your post and your reply again, I think you may have to recoil. I guess the coils/wick are crap quality.

But check the resistance first. They should range from 1.8 to 2.8, +-0.3
 
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Coastal Cowboy

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Agreed regarding the possibility that these are a different resistance.

Got a meter? That's the only way to check resistance unless your PV has a built in checking option. If not pick up a cheap meter at the likes of Harbor Freight Tools or Home Depot. Pretty much all e-cig users should have one.

+1

Anyone who's tinkering with electrical equipment or electronic devices should have a decent multimeter. It doesn't matter if you're playing with radios, guitars, e-cigs or building Illudium SP 36 Explosive Space Modulators.
 

RT88

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another thing i don't trust about knockoffs is i doubt they are using the good tank material and silicone caps. mouthpiece too

for something you're putting in your mouth all day i don't mind spending $6.50 for an authentic Vision 2.0 that will last for months in rotation. i have 6 or 7 in rotation and only 1 coil failure in 4 months
 

Glen Snyder

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Well, the FT units read at 2.6, and the existing read at 1.8. I guess that solves that. I assume a higher resistance requires more (relative) voltage when the button is pressed, thus giving me lesser results (vapor and flavor)?

I'll probably just RMA these, rather than bothering with recoiling.
Not to offend, but the clearo you linked states it's a 2.4Ω coil in the FT description. The 2.6Ω reading is well within the expected + / -tolerance. And yes, higher resistance = higher voltage to get to the desired watts.


Edit: Regarding knockoffs...Just my experience that it's extremely difficult to determine what's a knockoff, what's a factory second and what's a reject (quality control if there is such a thing at the particular factory). I can walk into any of a dozen B & M's and find what are documented on You Tube and various forums as knockoffs being sold under Joyetech & Vision name.

Now, whether or not the store owner even knows they're not 'genuine' is another story. The other variable is what run of the product you're getting. Is it the designers spec or what the factory is pounding out after they've filled the order. Again, the question is are these genuine.

Lastly, there's a bunch of people on this forum trying a lot of FastTech products then rating them on this thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...30819-fasttech-thread-all-fasttech-posts.html in addition to a new forum just for FastTech here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/fasttech/ .

The sticky in the FastTech forum may help avoid some of the sub par items being resold by FastTech. Hope this helps :)
 
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Feedbacker

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Not to offend, but the clearo you linked states it's a 2.4Ω coil in the FT description. The 2.6Ω reading is well within the expected + / -tolerance. And yes, higher resistance = higher voltage to get to the desired watts.

None taken. I was totally in the dark regarding ohms and how that translates to usage. I figured they were all the same. Thanks to this thread I now know how to check the resistance, and what resistance I want for future purchases. I've got some 1.8ohm heads coming in the mail now. so hopefully these FT units perform the same as the ones I got locally that I like.

Thanks everyone!
 
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