Few questions about Cartomizer taks

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VapinSweetZ

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Hi Guys (and gals),

I have few questions about Cartomizer-tanks (such as the DCT),

1. What's their advantages on "traditional" Clearomizer tanks?
2. Why shouldn't I fill liquid in the middle (inside the Cartomizer) if anyway I'm doing 2 punch holes to get liquid from the tank into the Cartomizer?
3. Is there any tank that won't spill all my liquid when I accidentally pull the tank up?
4. Is it take a while between puffs to get more liquid inside the Cartomizer? because right now I feel like if I let it stand for few seconds I get amazing flavor, but if I vape a lot often, I start to get burnt taste (like a dry Atomizer) after few puffs, then I let it rest for few seconds and I get a good flavor again... any reason why? it happens even when I'm using only 7w so I don't think overvolt/overwattage is the cause...

Thanks!
 

Topwater Elvis

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1) The carto's 'atty' is surrounded by saturated wicking material vs a few pieces of wick in a clearo head.
2) You should saturate / pre fill/ prime the carto's wicking material before installing it in the tank, avoid the center / air tube.
3) Higher quality tanks grip the carto substantially tighter. 7 out of 10 times I use the tank to pick up or remove device from a pocket. I've never had a carto slip pull out of or leak from any of my Phiniac tanks. It takes a good deal of force to displace the carto to refill or replace.
4) Could be from an improperly primed carto, might need more or bigger holes for the viscosity of the juice you're using.
Try a few primer puffs (draws without pressing fire button) you should see bubbles coming out of the holes occasionally. Could be the tank to cap or cap to carto o rings aren't sealing well enough to draw juice into the carto.

Depending on the size of the drops, it takes 18 - 25 drops to prime a standard size and 30 - 50 to prime an xl carto.

HTH
 
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VapinSweetZ

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edyle,
2. I'm asking because every video tutorial I watched for the DCT says to be careful and fill just the tank and not filling liquid inside the Carto.

3. "..." doesn't really helps me lol, I was thinking about a tank that locks the Carto inside (with half screw or something like that) so I won't be able to just pull it up freely.

4. In video tutorials for priming Cartos they still say just to drip few drops on the top and then pulling air from the drip tip to fill it, so I can't understand the difference between filling in from the top or pulling air, are there 2 different places for liquid in a Cartomizer?! when I look down through the DCT-2-A Cartomizer, it looks like it's just one tube with a Nickel mess at the bottom...


Topwater elvis,
2. What's the difference between the coil material liquid space and the "center / air tube" ?
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1PGqf0vtA...GtUeY3QWM/s1600/Smoktech+nickel+mesh+coil.jpg
Is there a place for the liquid above and underneath the coil?


Thanks!
 
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Myrany

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You want to prime a carto before inserting it into the tank. This gets an initial supply of juice into it. If you do not do this the tiny holes in the carto may not keep up with your vaping.

If you are getting dry hits either the carto was not adequately primed or the holes are not large enough for the juice you use. I use 50/50 juices which are thicker so I either have to add an extra hole to most cartos or I need to buy slotted cartos rather than those with holes.

As for pulling the tank off accidentally. A well made tank with good orings does not generally have this problem. If you have a tank that is a bit slippy the prime thing is to replace the orings in it. If that is not possible a tight fitting drip tip that has a large diameter might help keep the tank from slipping up.
 

Myrany

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2. I'm asking because every video tutorial I watched for the DCT says to be careful and fill just the tank and not filling liquid inside the Carto.

3. "..." doesn't really helps me lol, I was thinking about a tank that locks the Carto inside (with half screw or something like that) so I won't be able to just pull it up freely.

4. In video tutorials for priming Cartos they still say just to drip few drops on the top and then pulling air from the drip tip to fill it, so I can't understand the difference between filling in from the top or pulling air, are there 2 different places for liquid in a Cartomizer?! when I look down through the DCT-2-A Cartomizer, it looks like it's just one tube with a Nickel mess at the bottom...


Thanks!

I am guessing from your description that the carto that comes with the DCT-2 is different from the standard carto most use. I honestly know nothing about the DCT-2 but I am guessing regular punched or slotted cartos could be used in the same tank if it is a traditional type of tank and not a special one.
 

Topwater Elvis

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That looks like a un bridged drip atty to me, or, one that has a horizontal coil and has had all the innards removed, I'm not familiar with a carto with no wicking material inside.

This is what most cartos look like inside from the top.
Boge+501+inside.JPG


This blog by one of our very knowledgeable members may help.---> http://http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/baditude/3710-5-cartomizer-tank-setup.html
 
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VapinSweetZ

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They're actually pretty awesome with the DCT v1, the picture you attached looks like the original Cartomizer that came with the DCT v1 and I think the Nickel mesh is working better, just I'm still not sure if I can refill it from the top or not, because it does look like that's anyway the place the punching holes dragging the liquid to.

Off topic - Dojo's sticky buns (cinnaroll) is awesome :)


Thanks :)
 

cocacola31173

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The carto's I usually use I can get around 30 mls through. Sometimes they are still good after that but I always start a new bottle with a fresh carto. But I have like 7 tanks.

Sometimes though you will start to get a tight draw and it will just start tasting funky...thats when you know to go ahead and change it.

Also if you do decide to get multiple tanks I have an easy way to keep track. I keep old prescription bottles that are the perfect size. I replace the soft little white cap and put them in the bottle and then place the bottle of juice on top of it.
 
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LukasLeft

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The carto's I usually use I can get around 30 mls through. Sometimes they are still good after that but I always start a new bottle with a fresh carto. But I have like 7 tanks.

Sometimes though you will start to get a tight draw and it will just start tasting funky...thats when you know to go ahead and change it.

Also if you do decide to get multiple tanks I have an easy way to keep track. I keep old prescription bottles that are the perfect size. I replace the soft little white cap and put them in the bottle and then place the bottle of juice on top of it.

Thanks, cocacola31173 for good advices ; )
 

Baditude

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can you explain to me the reason of that? what in their "built" makes them deliver a better flavor compare to clearos?
Key words: Total surface area of the wick medium.

clearomizers.jpg
exploded view of a top-coil clearomizer showing the string wicks

The wicking system of clearomizers depend upon tiny silica strings to wick the e-liquid to the heating coil. That's a small surface area. These strings often have a hard time keeping up with a moderate to heavy vaper. This can result in flavor loss, dry or burnt hits, and inconsistancy.

Bogecarto.jpg
top view of a cartomizer and its polyfill wick material inside

A cartomizer is a steel tube completely filled with polyfill, an absorbant material which totally surrounds the heating coil. A much larger surface area bringing e-liquid to the coil comparatively. This results in more juice being available for the coil at all times and allows for better flavor, less dry or burnt hits, and more consistancy. The main issue with cartomizers used solo is not being able to directly see the amount of juice in them to know when to refill them. Allowing the filler to become dry will allow the coil to burn the filler, and once that happens the carto is ruined.

Using pre-punched cartos in a cartotank eliminates this issue. With each puff taken, juice from the tank enters the holes in the cartomizer from negative pressure in the tank. Since the tank is clear one can easily know when to add juice to the tank. The filler remains nice and moist around the heating coil and eliminates the possibility of burning the polyfill.

Cartomizer Anatomy.jpg....... tank lengths.jpgCartotank_filling.jpg
diagram of a punched cartomizer and flow of juice from the tank into the carto


Also I'd like to hear your opinion on nickel mesh cartos vs. regular cartos :)

I tried some of these a few months back. I was never able to get a good vape from them. They were harsh and unusable. My initial impression was they need a very thin juice (high pg ratio) in order to function properly. Just my :2c:
 
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Baditude

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You're awesome, I couldn't ask for a better answer :)

Funny thing, I also asked my B&M's customer service (Dojo) the same question and the email I got from them was "Atomizers are usually always better than cartomizers when it comes to taste and flavor!".
They are correct. A little confusion on vaping terminology is occuring here.

Atomizer is a catch-all term for the heating coil in all juice attachments. However, the very first juice attachment made for e-cigarettes was also called a drip atomizer. These look like a cartomizer on the outside, but inside there is no polyfill or other wick material...just the heating coil.

atomizer-3.jpg

Only a few drops of e-liquid can be used at any time. A few vapes, and you add a few more drops to continue vaping. Sound inconvenient? It is, but since there is no wicks to possibly alter the flavor of the juice, you taste only the intended flavor.

Bottom feeder box mods take this a step further. The mod contains a tank within its body to hold the juice. There is a window in the mod to allow the user to press the bottle to push juice into the drip atomizer attached on top of the mod. You get the full flavor of your juice with the convenience of a tank.

bottom_feeding_box_mod3.jpgReo.jpgbottom_feeding_box_mod.jpg
 
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VapinSweetZ

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...a drip atomizer. These look like a cartomizer on the outside, but inside there is no polyfill or other wick material...just the heating coil...

GREAT information as always, you're awesome!

Just out of curiosity,

1. If wick materials in Clearomizer's prevent from getting the best flavor, why most of the RDA still using them? I know there is an option to use steel mesh (as in 510 dripping Atomizers) in RDA, but still most of the pictures I see, still choosing to use wicks.


2. Are there any Clearomizers that using silica wicks and high quality materials as in RBAs, to get the best flavor?
For example, the Aspire BDC sucks IMO, I really feel like the tank ״drains״ (cuts?) most of the flavor out of the liquid...


Thanks :)
 
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