Finally, a "repeatable rebuild" on my Davide heads!!!

[stylemaster2001]

I can rebuild the kanger heads almost blindfolded, but always had troubles with getting a consistent build on my Aspire heads. Until last night. The biggest frustration was getting the cotton wrap around the exterior of the head before putting the topcap over it. Somewhere in the process, I'd move something and not get consistent results.

So last night, while getting frustrated trying to reuse the cotton wrap, and even using new cotton wrap I got on Ebay, was still having problems getting everything in and "right".

I got to thinking, what if I leave off the outer cotton wrap completely and make sure the holes on the cap align perfectly with the cotton on the wick...so I tried it. Using 30g 7 wraps on a 1.5m mandril, ohm'd out at 1.75ohms 6 times in a row. Wicked it with cotton, leaving a little longer tail on either end than would normally do. Gently placed the outer topcap over this, aligning the airholes directly over the cotton wicking. Then took a 7mm socket head and inserted the rebuilt head into it, kinda important cause when clamping that damn topcap back down, would always get some movement on the head pin from applying pressure; could actually use a pair of vice grips to snap that topcap back in place without any movement on the head pin at all. Went 6 for 6, easy-peasy last night, but still didn't know the true test....how it would vape.

Put in a new rebuilt head today, half expecting liquid to come spewing out everywhere, but to my delight, nothing but a smooth, quiet draw...plenty of liquid getting to the cotton and no flooding, gurgling.....perfect!!!! Happy camper here, finally got the "repeatability" I always strive for on my rebuilds.....

(Sorry if this method has been covered somewhere else, don't remember reading it or I would have tried it....this just "came to me" last night sittin there frustrated at the table!)

 

[PaulBHC]

Read my blog and I have done similar and/or a flavor wick across the top. The problem I have with Aspires or Kanger singles is flow control. Too much cotton and it's dry or too hard to draw. Too little and flooding with leaks out the bottom.

Next attempt is going to follow the nautilus coil thread and drill all the way through with a 1/16 drill, make a coil and thread the wick through the outer housing, inner housing, the coil, and out the other side. Maybe that will slow down the flow through those little holes on the outer cover.

My blog also has tips for dis-assembly and assembly.

 

[PaulBHC]

I was using a 16 gauge needle with some good results, then went to a 5/64 drill. Maybe the mandrel size effects this situation. I should try a smaller mandrel.

 

[stylemaster2001]

Read my blog and I have done similar and/or a flavor wick across the top. The problem I have with Aspires or Kanger singles is flow control. Too much cotton and it's dry or too hard to draw. Too little and flooding with leaks out the bottom.

Next attempt is going to follow the Nautilus coil thread and drill all the way through with a 1/16 drill, make a coil and thread the wick through the outer housing, inner housing, the coil, and out the other side. Maybe that will slow down the flow through those little holes on the outer cover.

My blog also has tips for dis-assembly and assembly.

Yes, I have rebuilt 2 Nautilus coils, drilling a hole thru 2 of the holes, threading thru the bottom and wicking thru the drill hole. Havent tried it yet, as my Nautilus thinks its the energizer bunny and wont quit!! lol. I posted in another thread but never got a reply, asking about the other 2 holes and would it cause leakage and could I use that JB quick weld stuff to close the other two. Any thoughts???

 

[JoppaRoadCruiser]

I can rebuild the kanger heads almost blindfolded, but always had troubles with getting a consistent build on my Aspire heads. Until last night. The biggest frustration was getting the cotton wrap around the exterior of the head before putting the topcap over it. Somewhere in the process, I'd move something and not get consistent results.

So last night, while getting frustrated trying to reuse the cotton wrap, and even using new cotton wrap I got on Ebay, was still having problems getting everything in and "right".

I got to thinking, what if I leave off the outer cotton wrap completely and make sure the holes on the cap align perfectly with the cotton on the wick...so I tried it. Using 30g 7 wraps on a 1.5m mandril, ohm'd out at 1.75ohms 6 times in a row. Wicked it with cotton, leaving a little longer tail on either end than would normally do. Gently placed the outer topcap over this, aligning the airholes directly over the cotton wicking. Then took a 7mm socket head and inserted the rebuilt head into it, kinda important cause when clamping that damn topcap back down, would always get some movement on the head pin from applying pressure; could actually use a pair of vice grips to snap that topcap back in place without any movement on the head pin at all. Went 6 for 6, easy-peasy last night, but still didn't know the true test....how it would vape.

Put in a new rebuilt head today, half expecting liquid to come spewing out everywhere, but to my delight, nothing but a smooth, quiet draw...plenty of liquid getting to the cotton and no flooding, gurgling.....perfect!!!! Happy camper here, finally got the "repeatability" I always strive for on my rebuilds.....

(Sorry if this method has been covered somewhere else, don't remember reading it or I would have tried it....this just "came to me" last night sittin there frustrated at the table!)

This is awesome. Can't wait to try this tomorrow.

 

[PaulBHC]

My fear with the JB Weld is the chemicals that may leach out with pg vg and heat.

 

[stylemaster2001]

My fear with the JB Weld is the chemicals that may leach out with pg vg and heat.

Yeah, me too...but I read the back of the JB directions and it says "can withstand temps of up to 550 degrees" (most of the other weld type products said 300 degrees), so I figured maybe once cured it wont "degrade" or release anything since supposedly the temps inside a head will never reach anywhere near 300 or 500 degrees...(that's why I figured I'd try this one, the increased resistance to temps)...

I don't know, in my opinion, we'd only be using a "dot" on two holes so the amount of weld would be minimal at best, as far as "vaping the metal". I don't mean to make light of it, don't want to poison myself, but I don't see a lot of "contact area" actually being exposed to the heat. Now, if we had to coat the interior of the head to achieve this then the chance of leaching would be significantly greater. Guess I will be my own guinea pig!!!


eta...day 2 with the new head...still vaping great!!! Still smooth, no gurgles, pops or dry hits....yay!!!

 

[PaulBHC]

Just read up on rayon for wick in the RBA subforum. I'll probably get some and see how it works for this.

Are you using cotton ball or yarn or ?

 

[stylemaster2001]

I use Muji cotton, got it on Amazon, comes in sheets/squares about 4"x3", 20 or 30 in a pack @ $9. Should be a lifetime supply!!! I like it cause all the cotton goes in one direction, tears off easy and wicks great.

 

[stylemaster2001]

Update...

So I have rebuilt ALL my old Aspire BDC heads using this "pull the cap over the tails of the cotton method for a week now. Getting many days and multiple refills off of one head with ZERO problems. Loving this. (just got to make sure you wet the cotton before vaping cause my sister burned up two by hittin' em too soon or not dry drawing them til they were wet!!!)

Now, on to master that Nautilus. Gonna try that new tip about using an o-ring over the airholes and drilling one hole above them. Should work great, then I will have all my tanks "rebuildables" down pat and can move on to RBA's!