Best way to rebuild the natilus!
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You, sir, are a genius. I don't even have a nautilus, but I see the beauty in this. I rebuild the PT 2 with a vertical coil and can appreciate a top notch build. I've been waiting on the nautilus, but I guess I'm gonna have to pick one up. I want to try your build and try a vertical coil in there also.
First off, let me say, I did successfully rebuild my nautilus last night. 8 wraps of 30g, drilled out 2 of the air holes, ran thru needle to hold in place...all went well, ohm'd out at 1.8. Got the cotton in there no problem. Havent used it yet, waiting for this coil in now to go crap, but my question is this...
I see 4 air holes on the head, 12
o, 3o, 6o and 9o around the head. If I drill thru only 2, what will the other two do once the paper filler is removed???? Will it flood the head?
I feel totally stupid cause I DID successfully rebuild this, but until I test it, gonna be wondering about this!! This method seems totally easy, doable, repeatable and that would be great cause I have the PT2 heads and Aspire BDC heads down pat for now....this would really make me "independent" so to speak on replacing heads!!! Thank you for a different take on Rip's method, which I wasn't too crazy about trying. (He rebuilt one on a brand new head....lot different on one with gunked up inner guts to work around--at least for me) But again, thank you for your contribution!!
I see 4 air holes on the head, 12
o, 3o, 6o and 9o around the head. If I drill thru only 2, what will the other two do once the paper filler is removed???? Will it flood the head?I feel totally stupid cause I DID successfully rebuild this, but until I test it, gonna be wondering about this!! This method seems totally easy, doable, repeatable and that would be great cause I have the PT2 heads and Aspire BDC heads down pat for now....this would really make me "independent" so to speak on replacing heads!!! Thank you for a different take on Rip's method, which I wasn't too crazy about trying. (He rebuilt one on a brand new head....lot different on one with gunked up inner guts to work around--at least for me) But again, thank you for your contribution!!
First off, let me say, I did successfully rebuild my Nautilus last night. 8 wraps of 30g, drilled out 2 of the air holes, ran thru needle to hold in place...all went well, ohm'd out at 1.8. Got the cotton in there no problem. Havent used it yet, waiting for this coil in now to go crap, but my question is this...
I see 4 air holes on the head, 12
I feel totally stupid cause I DID successfully rebuild this, but until I test it, gonna be wondering about this!! This method seems totally easy, doable, repeatable and that would be great cause I have the PT2 heads and Aspire BDC heads down pat for now....this would really make me "independent" so to speak on replacing heads!!! Thank you for a different take on Rip's method, which I wasn't too crazy about trying. (He rebuilt one on a brand new head....lot different on one with gunked up inner guts to work around--at least for me) But again, thank you for your contribution!!
Good question.
Tiny piece of of cotton instead a paper filler will do the trick.
Awesome thread!
I tried this last night and was anxiously awaiting a great vape.
What happened is I got a mouthful juice and do not enjoy it.
I understand the concept and followed the directions to a T, however it flooded.
I think you may be onto something with the extra air holes. I am going to try to put a little bit cotton in the holes so it doesn't flood.
At five cents a Rebuild, I am determined to master this art.
And it is an art! And you are an artist Kasia!,
I know I did something wrong just can't figure it out yet, but I will. Thank you for great post!!!
I tried this last night and was anxiously awaiting a great vape.
What happened is I got a mouthful juice and do not enjoy it.
I understand the concept and followed the directions to a T, however it flooded.
I think you may be onto something with the extra air holes. I am going to try to put a little bit cotton in the holes so it doesn't flood.
At five cents a Rebuild, I am determined to master this art.
And it is an art! And you are an artist Kasia!,
I know I did something wrong just can't figure it out yet, but I will. Thank you for great post!!!
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I pulled everything out. I drilled through all 4 holes using a 5/64 drill bit. Wrapped 30g 5 times around the same bit. Pulled cotton through coil and stuffed the other 2 holes with cotton. Vapes great so far on my k101 mod! Better flavor than stock heads. Love this Nautilus hack!
Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk
Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk
Are you guys using the tiny plastic sleeves that the stock coils come with? I thought you had to use it on the leads so that the resistance wire would essentially become NR and prevent shorting around the leg area
Nah I think those are used to make sure dual coils don't short.
Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk
After a full tank I refilled and experienced mad gurgle and flooding.
To remedy this I took the tank off and shook the base and coil head in the tub and dry burned. No too much though! Just enough so the cotton isn't as dark. Good as new.
To remedy this I took the tank off and shook the base and coil head in the tub and dry burned. No too much though! Just enough so the cotton isn't as dark. Good as new.
Thanks for the reply, but you got me thinking...how could I make that more "permanent", so I wouldn't have to worry about it every time I opened 'er up...
How about that liquid metal...or something heat-resistant??? Cant tape it cause it'll be too near the heat source. Is there a metal epoxy type material we could put a dot of on over the other two holes???
lol, I know Aspire hates threads like these....gonna make buying replacements obsolete!!!
Genius! Thanks man! You are the man!!! Works great!! Much props!!! Awesome!! Im pretty damn excited if you can't tell. Its like a breakthrough of technology!! Keep building and rebuilding. You're a jedi!
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I really like this build and still love the Nautilus. I changed a few minor things that makes it work well for me. I'd be interested to see if others see a benefit with these changes also.
The first thing was the place I drill the hole. I decided to drill it in the middle of the lower original coil channel 10mm from the top of the coil:
The reason for this is to get the heat away from the rubber grommet so it doesn't harden and turn brown, provide room to block the original juice holes, and to keep from restricting airflow having the coil so close to the air opening in the positive pin. The biggest of those reasons is to be able to easily block the old juice holes from the coil into the tank. For this build to be at it's best, I only want the juice to enter the coil chamber through the cotton wick through the coil, not any holes in the base of the housing. If the juice is coming in through any place other than the cotton wick, and especially since there is no polyfil to migrate the juice to the coil, the only place for the juice to go is somewhere I don't want it. And that generally results in gurgles.
So here is how I block the old juice holes:
Yep. That's a drip tip oring. In fact, I've used that housing and oring for over 3 months now and it shows no sing of wear or heat. I was worried about heat at first, but it never turned out to be an issue. The first coil housing I did I used sliver solder to plug the holes, but that was a real pain in the ... to get it hot enough to melt the silver solder and not distort and discolor the housing. So this lazy way out turned out quite well for me. Be sure to push the oring all the way down with your fingernail or small screwdriver to make sure the holes are blocked.
Here's what it looks like wicked:
BTW, I'm using 6 wraps of 30ga Kanthal around a 2mm (1/16th is nearly identical) which comes out to 2.1ohms and find it heats instantly rather than taking a second to heat up like my 28ga kanthal builds did. I don't push high wattage with these tanks and generally vape at 10 to 12 watts, so take that for what it's worth. Also, I did drill out the largest AFC hole to 1/8th and the airflow is great.
The first thing was the place I drill the hole. I decided to drill it in the middle of the lower original coil channel 10mm from the top of the coil:
The reason for this is to get the heat away from the rubber grommet so it doesn't harden and turn brown, provide room to block the original juice holes, and to keep from restricting airflow having the coil so close to the air opening in the positive pin. The biggest of those reasons is to be able to easily block the old juice holes from the coil into the tank. For this build to be at it's best, I only want the juice to enter the coil chamber through the cotton wick through the coil, not any holes in the base of the housing. If the juice is coming in through any place other than the cotton wick, and especially since there is no polyfil to migrate the juice to the coil, the only place for the juice to go is somewhere I don't want it. And that generally results in gurgles.
So here is how I block the old juice holes:
Yep. That's a drip tip oring. In fact, I've used that housing and oring for over 3 months now and it shows no sing of wear or heat. I was worried about heat at first, but it never turned out to be an issue. The first coil housing I did I used sliver solder to plug the holes, but that was a real pain in the ... to get it hot enough to melt the silver solder and not distort and discolor the housing. So this lazy way out turned out quite well for me. Be sure to push the oring all the way down with your fingernail or small screwdriver to make sure the holes are blocked.
Here's what it looks like wicked:
BTW, I'm using 6 wraps of 30ga Kanthal around a 2mm (1/16th is nearly identical) which comes out to 2.1ohms and find it heats instantly rather than taking a second to heat up like my 28ga kanthal builds did. I don't push high wattage with these tanks and generally vape at 10 to 12 watts, so take that for what it's worth. Also, I did drill out the largest AFC hole to 1/8th and the airflow is great.
Man I can't wait to try this build. I won't be able to do it till later on this evening. I have to go to the post office for my break to return a defective mod to Fasttech. The thing was literally a pipe bomb with a battery in it. Without even screwing the rda on. crazy!..when I put a multimeter on it, it goes crazy, especially near the bottom where it instantly heats up after screwing it closed at the bottom...I MEAN HOT REAL FAST!...But that's a whole other thread I have already shared. I just still get aggravated thinking about it. TTYS
I need to drill my hole out as well. I assume I drill just a tad past the wall of the inner hole? Also, I am thinking since I already have my other coil drilled out over 2 of the original coil holes, maybe I can use cotton from the new coil to the hole?....hmmmm
I don't have 30g. I only have 28g, so I will have to add more wraps to raise my Ω's. And I don't wanna add too many more so I can keep my coild centered as possible without shorting on the inside wall. Maybe I will go pick up a little at the local B&M.
I don't have 30g. I only have 28g, so I will have to add more wraps to raise my Ω's. And I don't wanna add too many more so I can keep my coild centered as possible without shorting on the inside wall. Maybe I will go pick up a little at the local B&M.
My original build was working great for a while, and toward the end of the tank getting low it had a couple gurgles and less vapor (with new battery). So I went to add more juice in it and now it just spews out juice from the hole and even when you try and take a puff. Not sure what happened, but I keep picturing the those other holes that were not covered like your newly designed build. So when I have some time, I am going to do your new build. I only have 2 coils and the first one was drilled out over 2 of the original holes. Now I am thinking that cup (ekowool sleeve thing) was used to block juice from directly going in the open holes. Anyway, looking forward to the new build.
That was why I decided to block the bottom holes Cagen, I found the 2nd half of the tank always gurgled when juice migrated into the chamber through the original juice holes. Your right about the polyfil blocking the holes from juice migration directly into the chamber, that was the only way juice entered the coil chamber and it wicked up to the coil wicks through the polyfill. Brilliant design on Aspire's part I think, but since I wasn't using any polyfil in the modified head I didn't want juice to enter the chamber from anywhere except the cotton wick since that could only result in flooding.
I only used an oring to block the holes because I wanted an easy method and after 3 months of use haven't found any degradation of the oring. I admit I was a bit leery of the long tem effects on the oring, but it hasn't been an issue for me.
I think it might be better to use another head to do this to instead of trying to use your previously modified head because I don't think the oring will be as effective in blocking the bigger holes you drilled. But you can try and see if it works.
28ga kanthal will work just fine. I used 8 wraps of 28ga on a 2mm bit until just recently when I switched to 30ga. I just found the 30ga heated instantly instead of waiting a second or 2 for the coil to heat with the 28ga. Not a big deal, both vape great so 28ga is not a problem.
I like your style... Its nice when we work together to get a superior product... haven't used my nautilus in a while as there is something wrong with the base (shorts out mods)... not sure why but it is annoying...
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