I recently purchased an apex alpha ultramax with RES and needed an affordable and weatherproof/dust proof/life proof case. took some measurements and searched for days online. made a mock up of my mod and possible cases to scale on paper. I looked at cellphone cases, eyeglass cases, flashlight cases, etc.
I chose the otterbox 2000 series universal case.
next I purchased some foam sheets from a local arts and crafts store.
then I took my time to cut out a ton of foam blanks that fit in my case. I took a blank and planned out my configuration for all current parts I want inside the case, leaving as much room as possible for future additions(because you never know!). next I cut out shims and shimmed every piece inside the case until they wouldn't rattle around with the lid closed. i noted how many layers in an empty case it would take to hold each piece in place because each piece has a different thickness. I wanted to have everything low in the case so I put 1 blank in the bottom of the case(added shock protection without risk of pieces rolling out when open) and 3 in the top to hold the alpha in place. next I cut 2 blanks to leave the alpha at it's appropriate layer depth. these 2 layers raised the battery and bottle up to the appropriate layer depth to allow them to be locked in when closed. I chose this route because I didn't want to deal with tight tolerances, or cutting out notches for my fingers, or adding a pop strap.
next I added a stack of separator foam that sits below the hinge height(so it locks into the sides staying supported) to keep everything in place when I open the case or close it.
I didn't glue anything yet, I wanted to field test it at work a few days to see if I like it. all the foam stays in place by itself right now so I'll try it for a few days before I glue the foam and upholster it.
NOTE! use a flexable foam glue so the foam doesn't become rigid, brittle, or dissolve!
tools used: hobby knife set, SMALL scissors(for precision), ruler.
materials: case, foam sheets, foam glue(for after I am satisfied), fabric liner(haven't found the right pattern/material yet, strictly decorative).
total cost: neglecting tools, 3 bucks in foam(much more than I needed, in case I mess up), 14 bucks for case, shipped(amazon with free expedited shipping), 4 bucks for foam glue(didn't go cheap on glue because this is cheap enough). total 21 bucks.
alternative: innovapor has a beautiful machined case with magnetic lid for $99.99, yet it still does not suit my outdoor needs. the zip close semi-hard ego case(that I've already beat to hell) sells for as low as 8 bucks, yet no waterproofing or major durability. artboxz.com makes beautiful custom graphic and interior cases for 25 bucks, but my alpha is .83 inches and her cases are only .75 inches in diameter, and she tried to get a thicker case but cannot.
summery: my case was designed for my mod and my needs. you need to first look at these 2 factors before you choose your case, from device to batts to juice to atty to carto, planning is key.
I chose the otterbox 2000 series universal case.
next I purchased some foam sheets from a local arts and crafts store.
then I took my time to cut out a ton of foam blanks that fit in my case. I took a blank and planned out my configuration for all current parts I want inside the case, leaving as much room as possible for future additions(because you never know!). next I cut out shims and shimmed every piece inside the case until they wouldn't rattle around with the lid closed. i noted how many layers in an empty case it would take to hold each piece in place because each piece has a different thickness. I wanted to have everything low in the case so I put 1 blank in the bottom of the case(added shock protection without risk of pieces rolling out when open) and 3 in the top to hold the alpha in place. next I cut 2 blanks to leave the alpha at it's appropriate layer depth. these 2 layers raised the battery and bottle up to the appropriate layer depth to allow them to be locked in when closed. I chose this route because I didn't want to deal with tight tolerances, or cutting out notches for my fingers, or adding a pop strap.
next I added a stack of separator foam that sits below the hinge height(so it locks into the sides staying supported) to keep everything in place when I open the case or close it.
I didn't glue anything yet, I wanted to field test it at work a few days to see if I like it. all the foam stays in place by itself right now so I'll try it for a few days before I glue the foam and upholster it.
NOTE! use a flexable foam glue so the foam doesn't become rigid, brittle, or dissolve!
tools used: hobby knife set, SMALL scissors(for precision), ruler.
materials: case, foam sheets, foam glue(for after I am satisfied), fabric liner(haven't found the right pattern/material yet, strictly decorative).
total cost: neglecting tools, 3 bucks in foam(much more than I needed, in case I mess up), 14 bucks for case, shipped(amazon with free expedited shipping), 4 bucks for foam glue(didn't go cheap on glue because this is cheap enough). total 21 bucks.
alternative: innovapor has a beautiful machined case with magnetic lid for $99.99, yet it still does not suit my outdoor needs. the zip close semi-hard ego case(that I've already beat to hell) sells for as low as 8 bucks, yet no waterproofing or major durability. artboxz.com makes beautiful custom graphic and interior cases for 25 bucks, but my alpha is .83 inches and her cases are only .75 inches in diameter, and she tried to get a thicker case but cannot.
summery: my case was designed for my mod and my needs. you need to first look at these 2 factors before you choose your case, from device to batts to juice to atty to carto, planning is key.
