Anyone know the difficulty level on replacing a firing pin? And on another reo, it leaks at the top just under the rm2. Any clue how to fix this? I'm trying to decide if this is something I can handle to do the repairs or if I should send off.
Firing Pin
- Thread starter kinggirl
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I am very good with tools, and taking things apart and fixing them, but maybe I wasn't gentle enough, as I broke my firing pin last week when I tried to remove it from REO # 1. REO # 1 was sent to Rob for repairs!
I've never had the RM2, but isn't there an o-ring that goes under the RM2?
I've never had the RM2, but isn't there an o-ring that goes under the RM2?
It can be done but mine was ruff and I'm a smart DIY kinda guy.. think it do it.
First shot I over tightened the nipple and it stripped. Had no idea and I never felt it snug up at all while turning it with a plyers.
So I was out the money for the upgraded contact kit.
It worked though for another month while dealing with it leaking the whole time.. juice all in the black delrin part as it oosed threw the clear cover on the contact pin from the nipple where it was loose.
Finally I ordered another kit and went for it and it was better the second time.
Then shortly after that rob came out with the new ss 510 connection So I sent it off to get that installed. Expensive Tra reo by then.
I'd say it's real easy after you have the new ss 510 connection installed cause of the ss nipple unlike the weak brass nipple from before thats easy to beak.
My advice is to just send it in for the full upgrade.. gold contacts and ss 510 connection.
Maybe order a new reo and then when that comes in send the other 2 out for a fresh spa visit.
First shot I over tightened the nipple and it stripped. Had no idea and I never felt it snug up at all while turning it with a plyers.
So I was out the money for the upgraded contact kit.
It worked though for another month while dealing with it leaking the whole time.. juice all in the black delrin part as it oosed threw the clear cover on the contact pin from the nipple where it was loose.
Finally I ordered another kit and went for it and it was better the second time.
Then shortly after that rob came out with the new ss 510 connection So I sent it off to get that installed. Expensive Tra reo by then.
I'd say it's real easy after you have the new ss 510 connection installed cause of the ss nipple unlike the weak brass nipple from before thats easy to beak.
My advice is to just send it in for the full upgrade.. gold contacts and ss 510 connection.
Maybe order a new reo and then when that comes in send the other 2 out for a fresh spa visit.
I was able to replace my firing pin without much hassle. I watched Rob's video (under shop section on website). When I had a glitch I asked here and was immediately assisted....of course.
Sometimes the leakage I've had is due to user error ie squonked too much...used an oring, didn't use an oring....wicking material overhanging. When I switched to the new connection, it was fine for quite a while without an oring. Then I had a leak, added an oring and all has been fine for a few days now.
Hope that helps some. Trial and error.
Hopefully you have a back-up just in case. Might also consider sending it in for a full spa day (new connection).
Sometimes the leakage I've had is due to user error ie squonked too much...used an oring, didn't use an oring....wicking material overhanging. When I switched to the new connection, it was fine for quite a while without an oring. Then I had a leak, added an oring and all has been fine for a few days now.
Hope that helps some. Trial and error.
Hopefully you have a back-up just in case. Might also consider sending it in for a full spa day (new connection).
The o ring is used to help line up the air hole where you want it when tightened down. Goes under the atty and I guess would also help against leaks if when the juice sucks back down the atty it can't climb up and out the 510 connection... but I'd suspect that the new ss 510 connection would also help that issue from occurring as the 510 contact post don't have an air slot for juice to travel out on up the threads.
If you do go for it just make sure not to pull out any clear silicone (looks like hot glue) under where the 510 connection is. People have pulled it out and it's there for a reason and if you pull it out you'll have to send it in for repairs..
Other then that don't over turn the new nipple.. it's brass and will break/strip easy.. though if it's loose it will leak.
Other then that don't over turn the new nipple.. it's brass and will break/strip easy.. though if it's loose it will leak.
Super-X has a video (well about 3 really) that shows a rebuild. The interesting thing about the most recent one is that he tests for leaks by using water in the juice bottle, which is also something Rob invented.
I'd also add that when you disassemble a Reo, treat that screw that holds the black delrin cover on very carefully, because if you overtighten that then you will strip the threads it goes into and that is not an easy fix.
T
I'd also add that when you disassemble a Reo, treat that screw that holds the black delrin cover on very carefully, because if you overtighten that then you will strip the threads it goes into and that is not an easy fix.
T
Nice catch! The 3Rd thing to watch out for!
Yup I've done that once! Aluminum is soft and all you want to do is snug that screw for thst black delrin piece. Dont event attempt to turn it more then snug or its a trip back to the spa for rob to repair.
Thanks everyone! I'm definitely a bull in a china cabinet when it comes to repairing or taking apart things so I might save myself the time and just send both in. I've tried the o-ring thing but when I put an o-ring under the rm2 on the leaking one, it won't fire at all. So, I think something might be off. But, if I tilt the reo with the rm2 to the side, it really kinda pours out slowly from under the rm2. I found out the hard way - it tipped over on my desk and I didn't realize it and it was pooling. But, even when I squonk, it starts to come out under the rm2. I've tried several O-rings under it, but then it won't fire.
O rings come in various thicknesses; like 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, etc. if the atomizer won't fire, after snugging it down to the o ring, it's because the positive post on the atomizer hasn't reached the point to where it's contacting the positive connection in the Reo. Use a thinner o ring, and it should.
For me, the purpose of the o ring is twofold. First; it allows 'indexing' the atomizer, so that the air inlets on the atomizer are where I want them (the new 510 connector eliminates this need). Second, if I should happen to drop my Reo, the o ring under the atomizer mitigates the stress on the 510 connections, should the atomizer hit the floor first. Without the o ring, it could bend or break the 510 stub on the atomizer.
For me, the purpose of the o ring is twofold. First; it allows 'indexing' the atomizer, so that the air inlets on the atomizer are where I want them (the new 510 connector eliminates this need). Second, if I should happen to drop my Reo, the o ring under the atomizer mitigates the stress on the 510 connections, should the atomizer hit the floor first. Without the o ring, it could bend or break the 510 stub on the atomizer.
Could try pushing up on the tube nipple so the center pin makes contact to the atty. Just a little though when you have the atty attached.
The one leaking sounds like the gasket is torn. If it is then the 510 pin can drop lower in the seat and that would explain why it's not making contact, and leaking like a sieve. Those gaskets and nipples on the older 510 are so easy to mangle I've given up on repairing them. Sending them for the new 510 is less expensive than multiple rebuild kits, postage, and aggravation.
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