First 2 RBAs..Loving it

[metamorpheus]

A few weeks ago I purchased an Igo-W and a week later purchased the AGA T2. Prior to that I just had a protank and protank 2. I learned to rebuild on those, but had to move up to a real RBA to have more control over some of the variables.

Here are some things I have learned from my tinkering.
.The atomizer must be cleared of vapor with each drag or it leaves condensation. The condensation decreases VP and adds an undesirable TH. Before each session I generally wipe down the inside of the cap.
.The Igo-W stock air hole is way too small. It makes me cough from how concentrated the flavoring is and how dense the vapor is. It also can't handle lower resistance or higher watts without getting burnt hits. I didn't like it much until I bored it out.
. 30ga kanthal is superior to 28g on a regulated device. I had around 10/9 compressed wraps of 28 thinking that the greater amount of surface heat would make a better vape. Wrong, the heat was just diluted and the responsiveness lessened. The flavor was good, but the VP suffered. Changed back to 30ga with 5/4 wraps and it's spitting vapor again and working great. Love that spatter effect over a straight stream.
.Compressed coils definitely work better. I generally just pulse the coil hot and pinch it tight with tweezers. It's too wide to be a micro coil since I use mesh/wire rope, but performs better.
.I love the sound of the juice bubbling as I inhale, I wouldn't like a silent night vape. Seems the more wild it heats, the better the flavor and it just sounds cool/ let's me know how big of a drag it's gonna be.
.The AGA T2 can be a wild bull to tame and make stable on a regulated device. I had to mess with the positive post nut, the positive lead, and the negative screw so many times to allow me to pulse it back into the ohms of the living and get rid of my hot spot on the positive lead. My battery went from 4.2 to 4.0 just pulsing it to stability...but now it's vaping awesome. Great taste, dense vapor, and no leaks whatsoever. My AGA t2 is my on the go and the Igo-w I'll use for testing DIY and use it for sub ohm.

Picking up my KTS from the mail box when I get home. Can't wait to try a .7 or .6 ohm dual coil when I get it. Gonna swap my SS mesh/ wire rope for cotton for safety purposes when building my sub ohm setup. Scared of getting a short since this will be a new area of exploration. I don't have a multimeter, but have a vamo vv/vw. I'll build one coil, test it, then disconnect the neg post. Build the second, test it, then re connect the first. Then it's going on the KTS.

I watched the Sony vs Panasonic video and the guys tankometer was reading around 3.7 V under load for the panny. So with my cheap mech on a panny I'm assuming for safety reasons that this KTS with the panny will be a beast and put out 3.9V(not realistic). 3.9Vx3.9V / .6ohms =25.35 W. 25.35W / 3.9 V= 6.5 amps. The max continuous amp output of the panny is 10A and I'll be using it in bursts, so I believe this is in a safe range of use, greater than the 20% safety net.

Should be fun, the only thing that sucks is that I'll still need my vamo to check my battery voltage. Will the performance drop drastically enough to notice when the battery is around 3.7V? Also should I revisit 28g kanthal at this wattage level?

 

[Thrasher]

the different wires come down to experimentation, the type of coil and wraps will not all work the same with every gauge. unless you play with them for a long time. i use all three of the common gauges 28,30,32. setting up each atty depends upon the device it is going on, the resistance you are trying to achieve and the way you want to build the wick, then using the correct wire to get there.

for example for low ohms with a dripper on a mechanical I run 28g at about .8 ohms
that same dripper on say my provari will be a 1.8ohms coil using 32g. with almost identical results, knowing how to build or "tune" the coil and the wick to the device is just as important as the wire itself.

take some 28 and wrap up some doubled 3mm silica (a good inch in length) and stay under 1 ohm, make sure that coil is dead on the airhole, soak it down and I bet that igo will bust out some rain clouds.

Multi coil setups are the bomb for vapor but man do they eat the juice, I quit running them in my megatron because 3 ml would just vanish in no time lol

now when trying to use different wire and coils in the same device on the same mod, you will get very drastic differences in results, ignoring the different resistance you cant take every gauge and do the same type of 4/5 coil (for example) and run the same wattage. and unless your going for a micro coil anything over 6 wraps is basically ineffective as you found out.

in my cobra on my VV i run 1.8ohms with 32 and its a fogger at 4/5 wraps
the same atty needs a 3/4 of 28 on a mechanical for around .7 ohms or so for the same response times.

the more you play, the better you will get and it will only get better

 

[metamorpheus]

From watching Lordy's video, he was suggesting that if you go below 1.2 ohms you should use 2 coils instead of 1 so your juice doesn't get too cooked and start breaking down. That's the main reason I'm doing dual on my Igo-w. On my Vamo I settled for a single coil. Think I need to drill my air holes out even more to get the VP I'm looking for. BTW the Igo-w looks perfect aesthetically on my 2 tone Kamry Telescopic storm, while the AGA T2 looks better on my Vamo. With the AGA and longer SS drip tip, my Vamo is now 9 inches lol. I've got the Igo at .8 ohms, but I feel it can do better than what it's putting out now. I have 2 small vertical mesh/wire rope wicks in there. 1 was already in there and the other was one I had put in before to try dual coils before the mech, so I wasn't worried about it shorting(Matter of fact I'm not scared of shorts with my Igo-W, it's more the genesis style atomizer I'm worried about that with. I'll buy an RSST down the road for that). Tested it on the Vamo first of course. With the cap off this thing is spitting and kicking up something fierce so I'm sure further air hole enlargement would remedy this.

I currently have cotton, 2mm 7x7 wire rope, 1mm ekowool, 2mm ekowool, 500 SS mesh, and 32,30, and 28 Ga kanthal. Bound to find something that's a perfect fit. For my AGA it's been wire rope/mesh, for my dripper it might be a frankenstein wick. Wire rope stuffed in ekowool which frays into a bed of cotton with some SS mesh armor covering the ekowool. I'm a tinker addict, I'll take apart a perfectly good setup on the off chance that a tinker will unlock some new personal vapetopia. That stab at doing a 10 wrap of 28 being an example of when it goes wrong. At least now I know, no foul because its back on 30 and running well. Thank dios I had my Igo as a back up because I did the tinker right before work .

Love you guys, if it wasn't for this forum I might be puffing clearos and clearo tanks on an ego battery, who knows. Instead I'm inhaling dense vapors of DIY out of some nicely built RBAs powered by a functionally nice mod with high powered 18650s. DIY and rebuilding for the win, .

I know exactly what you mean about juice eating. My AGA-T2 eats juice like a half starved dog compared to my protank. When I further my sub ohm exploration I'm sure it will eat like a 3 day starved man in a cloudy Amsterdam buffet.