First ever Genesis EPIPE, the K-Pipe

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Kenom

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I've had this design mulling around my head for the last couple of months. This is the first ever Genesis style E-pipe and it's NOTutilizing a 510 socket.

Features of the K-Pipe

DUAL 16340 batteries for increased runtime.
All aluminum construction for lightweight handling. Also allows me to anodize it with ANY color choice you choose including a faux wood anodized.
tank built into the Atty.
tank and atty is removable for cleaning an easy assembly.
Mechanical button on bottom for superior conductivity.

Here are some pictures of the unit.
epipe.JPG

epipe3.JPG

epipe2.JPG

epipe1.JPG

Gennie.JPG


Here's why I'm doing it this way. I don't have the resources to get this made myself, so I figure I start a list of folks that are interested, then when I get enough, take it to a local cnc machine shop and have it made. I am working on getting a basic prototype made so that I can test the functionality of the unit. That should happen over the christmas break. I've already purchased the material to have it made on my fathers lathe.

Tentatively I'm looking at $250 per unit and this means each piece is anodized however the customer wants it. So theoretically each piece is unique. I won't move forward on this until we have 100 dedicated people who will buy one. Once you commit your in and there will be no swaps. Like a co-op if you will. Now I would like to state that this is NOT the first thing I've had machined. I've previously had a laser host manufactured to my specifications and it turned out incredibly well with no design flaws. We did overcome a few technical issues, but they were incredibly easy to fix. (diode pocket needed a bevel) and I resolved the issues prior to shipping them.

I haven't detailed exactly how the button on the bottom works in the cad yet but I will shortly.

Lemme know what you think folks and we'll start a tentative list

I'm also debating on leaving a standard driptip hole so that folks can provide their own stem if they so desire.
 

Kenom

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Will there be some voltage regulation. I imagine if those are two 3.7V batteries, you're going to to be pushing 7.4V to your atty. I'd be a coil popping machine.

No the batteries will NOT be stacked, they will be in parallel. So the device will be 3.7v. It will just be doubling the mAh and since the batteries are so small, you need that additional oomph to power a genesis atty.

I am pretty sure Raidy was the first to bring a genesis e-pipe, especially since he was the creator of the genesis but I like where you are going with this.

Isn't he that german guy who first incorporated SS mesh for a wick? I don't believe he made those for resale, but just his own personal use didn't he?
 

Skyway

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Yeah, here is his thread. Link Very interesting read and very long, he has created a lot of things. Apparently has a new atomizer that will change a lot of things. Last I heard, he was just waiting on patents since he was not fond of what happened with the Genesis. He was big on making pipes and he only made them with genesis rebuildables.
 

Kenom

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I am going to make a few changes. Lots of folks have expressed concerns about using dual batteries even if it's not stacked, so we'll change the design to a single 18350 and we'll make the stem thread into the bowl body so it can be removed for cleaning. Not to mention the stem will be shorter so you can utilize your traditional pipe stems from other places. Since there is only going to be one battery, this means I can make the bowl unit more oval and eye appealing.

There is also going to be a cutout below the stem so that you can see fluid levels. I'm pretty new to cad design so I'm fumbling my way through it. I'm trying to figure out how to make a cut into the OD below the stem.
 
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Skyway

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If you are freeing up some space, you could always do a kick addin for those that want regulation. I like the idea of a metal pipe. From the looks of another thread, you can pull off some wild anodizing so that is another plus. I was thinking of doing a pipe with something like Gil Hibben in mind and making it pretty wild but I cannot work with metal.
Is there a reason I cannot see your pictures in the first thread? I do not even see placeholders. Granted I am on a military network, we do not really have a very strict websense and I do not have problems seeing others pictures.

*edit- never mind. I see now from the house that it is a dropbox, I can't see drop box pics from work.
Design looks pretty good. I personally would angle the tip up a little bit though, that's just me though.
 
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Kenom

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See and you guys haven't a clue about the other innovations that are being added to this sucker. I'll spill the beans here in a short bit when I can actually use pictures to represent what it is I'm doing.

I do plan on angling the stem a little as well, that's why I am going to have it screw into the unit as well. Machining the pipe the way it is was just more work than it needed to be and going with the threaded stem means less cost. My target price per mod is going to be $200-$250 per unit, but that won't pan out until we can actually see how much it'll be in the end with machine cost and individual parts.

As to the kick, I had already looked at incorporating the kick but that would overall increase the height of the unit from 52mm to the additional height needed for a kick (18mm) That's pretty tall for a pipe. It's not something I'm apposed to, just not in the works at this time.
 

Skyway

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I understand what you are referring to with the Kick but you have to think out of the box. Don't stand the kick on top of the battery. Just use one of the other battery slots to slide the kick into and wire it up with a sleeve. You would have to do a small amount of wiring but it would save space where you might want it to be rounder and not taller. That is what I am doing with a wood pipe, if I ever get around to working on it. If you wire the negative and positive to negative and positive of the battery, just make a metal sleeve the kick sits inside of and wire that to the ground also.
 

Kenom

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OK so another thing that I'm really proud of with this particular design is the center post is a bit more "revolutionary" than any I've seen to this day.

The center post has 2 features that are going to be incredibly nice.

1. slotted center means you have 3 different insertion methods for your resistance wire.
a. drop it into the slot and screw the screw down onto it
b. feed it in under the screw and tighten the screw down onto it
c. attach the wire in between the washer and the screw similar to most hybrids I've seen.​

2. Adjustable height on the center post. This means that you can have the coils on a 3/4 wrap be just as close to one another as a 5/6 coil. All you have to do is move the center post down onto the threaded center and wrap for a 3/4 or move it back up for a 5/6. Here is a picture of the renders I did for the center post. It has a nut not shown below to "LOCK" the center post into place.

slotted%20nut.JPG

center%20post.JPG


This also can translate into shorter distances from the wick to the center post so that there is less chances of a Hotspot because the wire isn't as long hanging in space between the center post and coil.
 
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Kenom

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ken, this looks awesome, I was looking into getting an epipemods, but an aluminum one w/ built in atty that you could anodize? thats awesome dude, count me in. especially since ive seen your work :thumbs:

Great to have you on board! The list at this point is only tentative but we'll consider ya "tentatively" on it! Hehe!
 
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