first experience with a mechanical and RDA

[brawas]

I've been vaping for a while, happy with Aspire nautilus on my Provari, but wanted to see what the big deal is with mech mods, and rebuildables....

Got myself a Nemesis clone and IGO-W3 clone from fasttech, and gave it a go with the premade 0.8 ohm coil.

Wow! Flavor, vapor and throat hit was intense! (even though I was only using 6mg nic). In fact throat hit was too much for me. I found I had to drip quite often, and if I dripped too much, it would leak out of the airholes of the W3 also.

It was a fun experiment, next I'll try rebuilding my own cotton build. Overall though, I'm happier with my smooth throat hit, hassle free, portable Nautilus/Provari setup. I'll probably only use this mech/RDA setup for tasting new liquids before filling a nautilus.

Questions:

1. I had to put magnets on the battery for this to work, I put them on the bottom of the battery, is that the right way to use them?

2. I noticed on the nemesis, there are some holes, just under the ring at the bottom before the fire button. I'm assuming these are the vent holes for the battery and therefore should be left open correct? Or does the battery actually vent through the button on the bottom, and these holes are only to vent when locked?

3. Is it normal to have to keep adding a few drops every 5-7 pulls? or am I doing something wrong?

Thanks!

 

[Dayglow]

1) the magnets go into the base where the switch is, they replace the spring. If this is in referance to the switch mod. If it is about batteries fitting in the tube, I would not recommend using a shim. Just adjust the top and bottom posts and use the right tube sections.
2) the air holes are more for bottom breathing atty's
3) Depeding on how much wick you have and how deep a well any RDA has it is normal to rejuice after a few good tugs.

 

[Bronze]

Why do you need magnets for the battery to work? Not sure I understand that. I use magnets in my Neme but they are in the switch and replace the spring. Has nothing to do with making the battery work. As for the holes, they are above the locking ring when in the locked position on my Neme. Not sure how many pulls you can get from your IGO. I don't have one. I use a Phoenix dripper and get 30 - 40 pulls on about 12 drops. YMMV.

 

[State O' Flux]

Why do you need magnets for the battery to work? Not sure I understand that. I use magnets in my Neme but they are in the switch and replace the spring.

Depending on the (fixed tube) mech inner assembled length, contact adjustments and battery actual length... it is sometimes necessary to fit a "spacer" to take up a small gap. Nickel plated neodymium magnets are commonly used in that application.

 

[Bronze]

Depending on the (fixed tube) mech inner assembled length, contact adjustments and battery actual length... it is sometimes necessary to fit a "spacer" to take up a small gap. Nickel plated neodymium magnets are commonly used in that application.

Except the Neme is not fixed. Not totally anyway.

 

[brawas]

Except the Neme is not fixed. Not totally anyway.

My Nemesis seems to have left a big enough gap for a kick to be installed in either configuration. I found I had to put a few magnets in as spacers, in order to make contact with the battery. I'm assuming putting them on the bottom of the battery is the right place as opposed to on top?

 

[brawas]

2) the air holes are more for bottom breathing atty's

Thanks, I was actually referring to the airholes near the bottom of the tube, not the ones near the top where the atty goes.

 

[Dayglow]

Thanks, I was actually referring to the airholes near the bottom of the tube, not the ones near the top where the atty goes.

In that case those are for the battery.

 

[Bronze]

My Nemesis seems to have left a big enough gap for a kick to be installed in either configuration. I found I had to put a few magnets in as spacers, in order to make contact with the battery. I'm assuming putting them on the bottom of the battery is the right place as opposed to on top?

I wouldn't know as I do not have a kick. Kickless, I see no reason why spacers should be needed. There is adjustments all over the Nemesis. The atty screw and the bottom cap.

 

[Lessifer]

My Nemesis seems to have left a big enough gap for a kick to be installed in either configuration. I found I had to put a few magnets in as spacers, in order to make contact with the battery. I'm assuming putting them on the bottom of the battery is the right place as opposed to on top?

You can remove the kick section of the tube, there is also a very short (~3mm) fuse section, it's usually a tiny bit shinier than the rest of the tube. Between the positive pin adjustment and the switch adjustment you shouldn't need magnets on the battery, unless you're not using standard sized batteries.

 

[brawas]

Thanks for the tip Lessifer. Now it's magnet free


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