First mech mod soon.

[CodyWilly]

The kick clone is a clone of a Kick module. It let's you turn almost all mech mods into regulated variable wattage mods (at the expense of battery size and life).

As for the kayfun, the one I have from them is the $25 one with both the clear and stainless tank insert. I don't know if they renamed it to the 91% or not. It's the most expensive kayfun clone, if that helps.

Okay thank you! Is this a kick I need??

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10005381/1490300-replacement-kick-tube-for-chi-you
And yeah it's the Russian 91%
And how does a kick turn a mech into a vv?

 

[PLANofMAN]

Lol. No. This is the Kick clone.$8.33 Variable Wattage Kick Module for Mechanical Mod / PV - range: 5-12 watts at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[CodyWilly]

Lol. No. This is the Kick clone.$8.33 Variable Wattage Kick Module for Mechanical Mod / PV - range: 5-12 watts at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

So what do I gain with buying a kick clone? And will I need a case for the clone?? And what you mean by battery size is something that decreases?

Sorry so many questions. I'm wanting to learn as much as I can right now

 

[PLANofMAN]

So what do I gain with buying a kick clone? And will I need a case for the clone?? And what you mean by battery size is something that decreases?

Sorry so many questions. I'm wanting to learn as much as I can right now

In a mech mod, the battery starts out at 4.2 volts and gradually puts out less voltage as you use it. At 3.5 volts you should take it out and recharge it. If you drain it lower than 2.0-2.1 volts, not only will chargers not charge it, you run the risk of causing the battery to go into thermal runaway (rapid discharge) which can result in fire, explosions, missing teeth and fingers, etc.

With a kick (or a kick clone) you gain several things. A protection circuit (this prevents the nasty stuff from happening that I was talking about above) this will cause your mod to stop working when the battery drains to about 3.2-3.3 volts. More importantly, you can adjust the power output of your mod from 5 watts up to 12 watts. It takes the voltage from the battery and boosts it.

Want a hotter vape? turn it up. Cooler vape? turn it down.

You won't need a case for it, because most of the time it will be inside a mod. Some mods have extension tubes (like the chi-you tube you linked to earlier) that are specifically designed to add a spacer to the mod to make room for the kick. Most of the time, you will just use the kick and a battery in the mod's original tubing.

About the size decreasing-
An 18350 battery + kick is the same size as an 18490 or 18500 battery.
An 18490 or 18500 battery + kick is the same size as an 18650 battery.

Using a kick also drains the battery faster than just using a battery alone.
So using a Kick with a 18350 battery in a mod designed to use an 18490 battery, you may only get 2-3 hours of use
If you were using an 18490 battery without a kick instead, you might get 7-10 hours use.
The flip side is that with just the 18490, your voltage would start at 4.2v and gradually decrease as you used it. With a kick, you can set your wattage wherever you want it, and it will stay that way until the battery dies.

With the kick, you have to use 1.5 ohm attys or above. No sub-oHming with it.

That is the pros and cons of a kick in a nutshell. I hope it wasn't too confusing.

Mech without Kick = adjust your vape by raising or lowering the oHms of the atty's coil (by adding or removing wraps).
Mech with Kick = adjust your vape by turning a knob on the kick.

Edit: a kick turns a mechanical mod into a regulated mod (like a Vamo or Zmax) only without a display.

 

[CodyWilly]

That was actually perfect wording. Thank you! I will most likely buy the kick but will take it off when wanting to sub ohm. How could i measure voltage of battery without kick so I know I'm safe?

Edit: well I have a smok sid vv/vw so what would be the point of a kick(not saying I'm not getting one) besides safety on a mech?

 

[Credo]

So what do I gain with buying a kick clone? And will I need a case for the clone?? And what you mean by battery size is something that decreases?

Sorry so many questions. I'm wanting to learn as much as I can right now

That is a clone of the Evolv Kick Variable Wattage battery regulator.
The genuine Evolv Kick provides:
5 - 15 watt power adjustment
Short Circuit Protection
Thermal Protection
Battery Over-drain Protection
Will accept atomizers down to 0.5 Ohms (When using sub-ohm stuff it doesn't buck or boost much, but still gives the safety features).

Variable Wattage allows you set a desired power output. A computer takes a resistance reading several times per second and adjusts the voltage in real time to maintain that steady power (wattage). Even as the battery runs down towards it lower safety limit (usually somewhere between 2.7v and 3.5v) it'll continue to boost/buck voltage to your set power level.

The Kick allows you to get the same power from first drag to last on the battery charge. When the battery gets low it just stops working and you change the battery (over-drain protection).

There is also the Artisan Crown which is not quite as powerful or flexible as the Evolv Kick 2 in some ways, but it does allow you to adjust the settings without opening up your mod and turning a pot. It does however offer a lot of nice features. It allows you to choose between a VW (5w - 10w) or VV mode (3.5 - 5.5v). You cannot sub-ohm with the Crown.

The 'clones' provide similar functions, with the following differences:
5 - 10 (or 12, depending on make and model) watts power range.
Not as well built as the Evolv Kick 2.
Cannot sub-ohm.

I use both Evolv Kick 2 and Artisan Crown 2.0 units most of the time.
For the Kicks and Crowns I go for a Hybrid type IMR battery (C10 rating) like the Panasonic NCR18650PF.

I usually do 2ish Ohm microcoils in KayFun style tanks and tend to vape at around 8 watts.

I also have a lot of custom wound Vivi Nova tanks...I wind them for 2.5 Ohms so I get the full range of adjustably (both the low and high end ranges) of the regulator. These tanks are top coil and don't like nor require much heat at all...5 watts usually does it.

I do run 14 wrap 28 gage micro-coils in the Kayfuns, compared to simple 4 to 5 wrap (but on a mesh wick) coils in the Vivi Novas...so the KayFun does go through nearly twice as much e-liquid per day as the Vivi Novas. both get satisfying vapes for me...the KayFun is clearly superior on lung hits, and can take much higher settings (more heat) when desired.

With a setup like this I can usually get through a full day on one battery charge. If I'm home chain vaping all day...then I might have to do a battery swap before the day is over. So, it's a great 'on the go' no brainier drip-free setup.

One big plus for me with the Nemisis style mods is that you can Kick an 18650 battery (comes with all the needed extensions). Interestingly enough, a Kicked 18650 Nemisis setup comes out to be only 10mm or so taller than the K100 with a kicked 18500.

I also have a K100, which I like alot...but to use a Kick with this mod I must drop to 18500 or 18350 batteries. It's not long enough to Kick an 18650. I usually will need a spare battery or two to get through a day if this is the mod (with kicked 18500 or 18350 battery) I'm using that day.

Since I rarely do multiple coil stuff and use regulators like Kicks and Crowns....I have little need to sub-ohm.

Note: I'm NOT a cloud chaser...I just want a good consistent and satisfying vape. The less liquid I have to use each day to get there...the better.

Occasionally I set up an IGO-W rigged with dual coils. That's the only time I ever venture into sub-ohm territory. I use a good 18650 IMR battery with a C30 rating for those builds. Honestly, for my tastes, I've found that a 1 to 1.5 Ohm dual coil build is plenty. If I'm using a Crowned Mod I just swap over to VV mode for the low resistance stuff and find a sweet spot from 4.5v to 5.5v. If it's on a Kicked mod...so far the 15 watt range (7.5 watts per coil) has been enough to meet my needs. I do keep the stock air hole sizes in my IGO (tighter draws) and do micro-coils. Plenty of 'heat' so far. The dual coil setup does go through e-liquid twice as fast as a single coil build...the kayfun, or the vivi nova setups.

 

[PLANofMAN]

Good info there. The Kick by Evolv costs about $45 though. The OP will have to decide if it offers more value. The Crown never interested me, but only because I have a severe hearing impairment, so a device that lets you know what it's set at through audible tones is pretty useless to me.

That was actually perfect wording. Thank you! I will most likely buy the kick but will take it off when wanting to sub ohm. How could i measure voltage of battery without kick so I know I'm safe?

Edit: well I have a smok sid vv/vw so what would be the point of a kick(not saying I'm not getting one) besides safety on a mech?

Well, you would need to stick it in the SID and use the check battery function. In reality, most people get a feel for it. When vapor production starts to fall off I put it on the charger. With a 2.0 oHm coil, that happens at about 3.6-3.7 volts, so I know I'm safe. I checked the battery I was using in my mech with my ProVari religiously until I got a feel for it, though.

The point of having a Kick, best I can tell, is to allow people who use mech mods to sneer at the plebeian variable wattage/voltage users for not using a mech, while still enjoying the benefits of a variable device.

 

[Credo]

Good info there. The Kick by Evolv costs about $45 though. The OP will have to decide if it offers more value. The Crown never interested me, but only because I have a severe hearing impairment, so a device that lets you know what it's set at through audible tones is pretty useless to me.


Well, you would need to stick it in the SID and use the check battery function. In reality, most people get a feel for it. When vapor production starts to fall off I put it on the charger. With a 2.0 oHm coil, that happens at about 3.6-3.7 volts, so I know I'm safe. I checked the battery I was using in my mech with my ProVari religiously until I got a feel for it, though.

The point of having a Kick, best I can tell, is to allow people who use mech mods to sneer at the plebeian variable wattage/voltage users for not using a mech, while still enjoying the benefits of a variable device.

Agreed...he asked what it was a 'clone' of...so I put it up there

I find a regulator like the Kick or Crown worth it simply because I'm all over the map with the types of toppers I own and use. I might be using an off the shelf 4 Ohm HV 801 dripping atty one day, a bog standard 510 Carto Tank the next, or a low resistance Genny the next. It's also nice for safety...just drop batteries in a couple of mods, drop them in my pocket, and be good for a LONG day of worry free vaping.

I like the Crown in Mods that are harder to fish a Kick out of to adjust.
In something like the Nemisis, I much prefer the Kick style.

Why not just get a VV, VW mod instead? I've tried. To get anything that vapes anywhere as good, and is as VERSATILE as a Kicked Mech, while using my existing stash of 18mm batteries, starts at $150, isn't as sturdy, doesn't look as good, and has crappy button action that I can't get at without taking off my work gloves.

 

[PLANofMAN]

Why not just get a VV, VW mod instead? I've tried. To get anything that vapes anywhere as good, and is as VERSATILE as a Kicked Mech, while using my existing stash of 18mm batteries, starts at $150, isn't as sturdy, doesn't look as good, and has crappy button action that I can't get at without taking off my work gloves.

I came to a similar conclusion, but addressed it differently. It's how I ended up with a used ProVari with batteries and extension cap off of the classifieds for $95. I like mech mods but that ProVari is my go to mod.

 

[cramptholomew]

I would've bought this Kayfun Lite + clone, had it been available a month ago:

Black Edition Kayfun Lite Plus Russian Style RBA Atomizer with Adjustable 510 | eBay

The Russian and Sveomesto are far more expensive, but if price is no matter then by all means get the original.

The kick, as stated above is a module that you place inside the battery tube between the battery and the positive connection (top cap). It has a dial that you adjust, and will regulate wattage just like a VW APV (SVD, VTR, VV3, VAMO, etc. etc.). I have one, but I never use it. Also, I belive it has an amps cutoff of 7 amps (not sure if this is the case with the Kick2).

Buy batteries from either https://illuminationsupply.com or Authentic AW Batteries at RTD Vapor

 

[CodyWilly]

Are the kicks easy to take out or no

 

[Credo]

Are the kicks easy to take out or no

This can depend on the type of mod to some degree.

With mods like the Nemisis, where the top screws off it's easy as pie to adjust the kick, insert it, remove it, etc. I.E. To adjust the Kick in a Nemisis...just screw off the top, and the pot of the Kick is right there in your face.

Some mods only the bottom screws off...you'll have to remove the battery, then it might take a few taps on your palm to get the Kick to drop out. If it's a really tight mod with very little clearance you might need a tool or something to fish it out. For these types of mods you do have to take the Kick all the way out to adjust it. I use a Crown for mods like this, as those can be adjusted with a series of button pushes (the normal fire button) to the mod. Crowns are also well magnetized and stick to the battery itself, so when you pull out the battery the Crown comes right with it.

In most cases it's not difficult to get a Kick in and out...some just require that you pull out the battery and the Kick to make adjustments to the Kick.

 

[CodyWilly]

Okay awesome. So I'm going to get nemesis, kick clone, kayfun, and what drip attys you recommend to start learning on? (Kayfun I won't build under kick regulation).

 

[cramptholomew]

what drip attys you recommend to start learning on? (Kayfun I won't build under kick regulation).

IGO-W to start. Hands down. Cheap, reliable, has post holes. Much easier to build on than an IGO-L.

 

[CodyWilly]

Okay thank you!

 

[PLANofMAN]

IGO-W to start. Hands down. Cheap, reliable, has post holes. Much easier to build on than an IGO-L.

Since you are buying most if not all of this stuff from FT, you might want to look at this one instead. This is a bad clone of a Patriot atty, but good for you. It's a IGO-W bottom with a different top cap. Pick the one you like the look of best.
$5.43 Patriot Style Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping


edit: Some of the Igo-W's on FT don't have the post holes. This one does.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1553601

 

[CodyWilly]

Thank you! So I'm trying to decide what batteries to buy. I'm thinking of getting one Panasonic High Drain NCR18650PF Hybrid 2900mAh Flat Top for when I have the nemesis kicked. Than a Sony US18650VTC4
For when I'm not kicking.

Only thing is with the Panasonic, I. Can't see what the amp draw is so I know what I should make my kayfun. I would like to have it around .9-1.2

 

[PLANofMAN]

Sorry, bud. I've reached the end of my knowledge. If the answer isn't in Baditude's blogs that I linked to earlier, you might have to make a new thread, battery specific. I use AW IMR's for everything. If I were to sub-ohm, I'd use the Sony 30 amps. I know that's not the answer to everyone's battery questions, but it's kept me happy.

 

[Credo]

The Panasonic Hybrid PF is 10 Amp.

There's new battery out now that's worth a try.
Efest IMR 18650 2500mAh 35amp Purple

Pretty amazing specs, and it should be a great battery for kicked or subohm stuff.

 

[Ahoy]

I love my hcigar nemesis clone. Works like a champ.

current setup with the nemesis is
18650 EH IMR 30amp battery
Igow dual coil setup (4 wrap/30guage micro coil with cotton on both sides) firing at .7ohms with some nice big airholes drilled out
DIY watermelon

Its a great setup! I believe my nemesis cost like 50 bucks at my local b&m. Which is a competitive price with online, a little bit more because of overhead/retail pricing but I didn't mind. It wasn't outrageous and I jumped on it as soon as they got the hcigar made clones in!!!!

edit- I love my 30amp batteries for sub/low ohm vaping. Safety and just overall good batteries. However the MAH is a little on the low side at 1500mah, but I don't vape sub ohm all day, just when I am hanging around the computer.