First post and question about leaking protank mini

[Kilz]

Hi, first post here.

Both me and my wife vape. I am so glad she doesnt smoke combustible cigarettes anymore, she has copd and was getting breathing attacks. We have been vaping for about 4 months and those attacks have almost vanished.
We tried V2 disposables at first, liked them so I did some research and bought a setup from ebay with a protank mini 2 and 2 ego 1100mah batteries. My wife used the protank and I used the ce4 tanks that came with the kit. I bought some kanger coils for the mini protank. But after the first coil went and I replaced it the protank started to leak. So I ordered two vision vivi novas and put the protank in a box. The vivi novas seem to work fine for us. I have even learned how to rebuild the coils for them.
But the wife likes the look of the protank mini and would like to use it. I have tried replacing the coil. I have tried to rebuild the coil that went bad. I have searched, and watched youtube videos on it. It leaks no matter what I do. Is this just a problem with the design of bottom coil tanks?

Thanks for any advice in advance.

Kilz

Been using the nickname for 15 years online.

 

[Double Helix]

Leaks? As in comes out the bottom air holes onto the mod? Or floods up the top into the mouth piece?

 

[BigCatDaddy]

There are a couple of things to look at. Did you get authentice Kanger coils? If they are real ones, they will have the Ω's of the coil etched on the base. It's tiny, so you might need a magnifier to see it. Knock offs will not be etched and tend to leak like a sieve. The best fix is to get the Aerotank base for it and that should do it.
How are you rebuilding? The best build I have found is to use 32 ga. kanthal/6 or 7 wraps on a 1/16 drill bit and wick with Peaches and Cream yarn, 2 of the 4 strands that make up the yarn. Do not put a flavor wick. Does it for me, YMMV.

 

[fraychek]

I have 9 mini PT2'S and none leaks. The thing about them is that there's nothing glued together and they depend on the o rings to be well seated. It's easy for them to get kind of loosey goosey when you fill them, replace the coil or reassemble them after cleaning. You have to be sure all the parts are well seated and tighten firmly, but don't over tighten. After filling you might get some seeping at the connection point if you've topped it off too much. Just give it a wipe with a tissue. You eventually get a feeling for them and it becomes second nature. I have had one tank gurgle a bit and no amount of swabbing and mopping would fix it. I ended up just taking it apart and cleaning it and putting in a fresh coil. All better now. I really love the PT2'S and hope ypu can get yours to work for you.

 

[Rat2chat2]

to ecf Kilz. So glad you are here. I use to use PT and loved them but I never had any issues with mine. I did however remove the flavor wick that laid across the coils and I also always put a napkin on the mouth piece and gave it a few thermometer type shakes after I filled it up. Never any issues. Good luck to ya. Hope someone's suggestion helps you. That is what is so wonderful about ecf......the people. Can't tell ya how many times someone here has helped me. Happy vaping.

 

[Kilz]

Thanks for the quick replies.

Leaks? As in comes out the bottom air holes onto the mod? Or floods up the top into the mouth piece?

It leaks out the bottom into the battery, dont have a mod yet, but its something that is in my future I think. But the leak gets so bad after 20 puffs that some juice does make its way into your mouth.

There are a couple of things to look at. Did you get authentice Kanger coils? If they are real ones, they will have the Ω's of the coil etched on the base. It's tiny, so you might need a magnifier to see it. Knock offs will not be etched and tend to leak like a sieve. The best fix is to get the Aerotank base for it and that should do it.
How are you rebuilding? The best build I have found is to use 32 ga. kanthal/6 or 7 wraps on a 1/16 drill bit and wick with Peaches and Cream yarn, 2 of the 4 strands that make up the yarn. Do not put a flavor wick. Does it for me, YMMV.

Yes they are authentic coils in a Kangertech box and they do have the ohms etched in the coils. I rebuilt the first coil the same way I built the vivi's. 32 gage kanthal about 6 or 7 wraps and 1mm braided cotton wick, I put the wick around a sewing needle in a pinvice and wrap it. I have tried two and three pieces or wick to see if it made a difference. It still leaks, it starts gurgling then it gets worse. Is the Areotank better? The wife and I like tanks, they are relatively easy.

I have 9 mini PT2'S and none leaks. The thing about them is that there's nothing glued together and they depend on the o rings to be well seated. It's easy for them to get kind of loosey goosey when you fill them, replace the coil or reassemble them after cleaning. You have to be sure all the parts are well seated and tighten firmly, but don't over tighten. After filling you might get some seeping at the connection point if you've topped it off too much. Just give it a wipe with a tissue. You eventually get a feeling for them and it becomes second nature. I have had one tank gurgle a bit and no amount of swabbing and mopping would fix it. I ended up just taking it apart and cleaning it and putting in a fresh coil. All better now. I really love the PT2'S and hope ypu can get yours to work for you.

Thanks, I did order some extra o rings, but they were the ones for the glass section. I will have to see about one for the place where the coil is seated and not over tighten it. That may be where I am going wrong.

 

[BigCatDaddy]

I rebuilt the first coil the same way I built the vivi's. 32 gage kanthal about 6 or 7 wraps and 1mm braided cotton wick, I put the wick around a sewing needle in a pinvice and wrap it. I have tried two and three pieces or wick to see if it made a difference. It still leaks, it starts gurgling then it gets worse. Is the Areotank better? The wife and I like tanks, they are relatively easy.

It sounds to me you are tring to build with cotton like you build with silica. That braided cotton might be too tight to soak up the juice properly and it's just going right past it.The best build I have found is to use 32 ga. kanthal/6 or 7 wraps on a 1/16 drill bit and wick with Peaches and Cream yarn (can be found at Walmart in the sewing section), 2 of the 4 strands that make up the yarn. Do not put a flavor wick. The 1/16 drill bit is just the right size to fit into the slot in the head when you go to install the coil and hold it in just the right position. I've built well over 100 this way and they work great.
You can use the Aerotank base on the mini PT II, but I believe they now offer an Aerotank base for the Mini PT II. Either one will stop the leaking and for about $5, money well spent.

 

[fcreeves]

I have seen this before myself. My fix was actually giving up and going RBA. These things were not meant to be rebuilt. I have since honed my skills and rebuilt for friends...more successful on the later builds than the newer, but the centering of the coil and shorts and proper wicking is just plain easier on a atomizer that was meant for rebuilding.

When the Vape Budget permits, try to get a Kayfun 2.1 or Taifun GS. Then go back one night when time permits and if you're bored and give it a whirl.

This is what worked for me and in the end you graduate to a new level of vaping and you'll probably vape-it-forward to those clearos.

Hence, knowledge + practice is the recipe for perfection. Anyway you go you will eventually get it!

 

[Alter]

Stock protank heads are hit and miss to begin with, they do leak and some burn out super fast. The main culprit with stock heads is that they have very little wicking in the coil also the flavor wicks are too short and fall to the side if the coil thus obstructing airflow. Simple fix is to remove the stock flavor wicks and either replace with 1 or 2mm silica so the wicks stick out each side a bit or the other route is to cut the wicking off a old top coil atty and use those wicks as flavor wicks. Before you use the protank, take it completely apart, removing and cleaning the top and bottom orings. I learned long time ago that once liquid gets past a oring then there is no seal until the oring is cleaned or replaced. The protanks work on a vacuum and if there is a air leak due to orings being compromised, bad cut or not true glass tube they do leak since there is nothing to hold the juice in the tank.

 

[Kilz]

It sounds to me you are tring to build with cotton like you build with silica. That braided cotton might be too tight to soak up the juice properly and it's just going right past it.The best build I have found is to use 32 ga. kanthal/6 or 7 wraps on a 1/16 drill bit and wick with Peaches and Cream yarn (can be found at Walmart in the sewing section), 2 of the 4 strands that make up the yarn. Do not put a flavor wick. The 1/16 drill bit is just the right size to fit into the slot in the head when you go to install the coil and hold it in just the right position. I've built well over 100 this way and they work great.
You can use the Aerotank base on the mini PT II, but I believe they now offer an Aerotank base for the Mini PT II. Either one will stop the leaking and for about $5, money well spent.

I learn a lot dealing with problems. I found that you are correct that the braided cotton wick is to tight for most of the things I have built. Since I have a lot of it (4 yards for $3) I have started to unbraid it. I even took out a coil from one protank coil assemblies that leaked and measured it, and then created a coil and wick, and measured it. It helps being a watchmaker dealing with these small parts. Its the same thickness to within 0.2mm. Still leaks. I have just left the protank alone for a bit and look for one of those replacement bases. But its confusing on ebay because I want to get one for the mini. The wife isnt complaining that much anymore perhaps I will just get her a kayfun mini and be done with buying assemblies. Id like to see if I can make one on my jewelers lathe once I have the measurements from one I have bought.

Stock protank heads are hit and miss to begin with, they do leak and some burn out super fast.

I am beginning to agree.

 

[joesquid]

The only way for an MPT to leak into the drip tip or connector is for juice to get by the wicking. I my short experience with MPT's, if I have a problem with that type of leaking, I add a little more flavor wick until it stops. Has always worked for me. Too much flavor wick will cause a tight draw.

 

[Kilz]

The problem was related to the base. I ordered a areotank base that was said to update the protank 2 as BigCatDaddy suggested. It solved the leaking and gave my wife air flow control. It also looks better than the darker base that came with it imho.