first time atty driping, why de bridge them?????

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Unforeseen

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De-bridging an atomizer is of personal preference. In regards to dripping, some believe that you get more flavor. Since the e-liquid is coming in direct contact with the wick and coil. Compared to dripping down the side of the bridge that gets in the way.

There are many different factors that can effect how your atomizer vapes. The ohms of your atomizer has to be matched to the corresponding voltage in order to get the best performance. For instance, if your using a 2 ohm atomizer. If possible, the best voltage to use it at, would be 4.2V.

Priming an atomizer before initial use is another important point. Since without doing so, it can result in dry hits. Or if overdo it and add too many drops then it can result in weak performance.

In other words, flooding your atomizer. I would suggest 6-7 drops and then wait for a 5 minutes or so. Take a drag and if you do get a dry hit. Then add a few more drops and you should be fine.

After you prime it. You can get anywhere from 5-8 drags before you need to feed your atomizer again with 2 drops of e-liquid.

Lastly, not all atomizers are created equal. Just take a look around this section to get a good idea of what is the most popular. More than likely they will be the ones that performs the best.
 

Kemosabe

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i suggest to just keep vaping that atomizer. depending on the atty, it may take a good deal of vaping before it fullly breaks in and starts giving you optimum draws.
a lot of times there is primer in the brand new atty and blowing it out prior to use helps a lot. if you have not done that, try it. or just keep dripping and puffing away on that atty until the primer is gone. youll know once your flavor improves that the primer is gone.
also, you may want to look into drip shields. i swear by them.
 

Zaratoughda

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Maybe changing the subject just a bit here but... I have some Joye 2.4 ohm atties and, compared to my 1.8 ohm ciscos where I remove the wick, they seemed kinda slow, even taking into account the 2.4 ohms and, you can't easily remove the wick on the joyes because it runs between the bridge and the metal mesh and so... what I did was get a pliers and rip the bridge right off... and this got the bridge off along with the wick.

But, having done this, I got kinda concerned in vaping these, that I just might get some metal fragment in my vape. So, I guess my question is, if people remove their bridges, do they do it in a more civilized manner?

For me, I got every metal fragment out that I could but, was still concerned.

Yeah, would be easy to just go for cisco bridgeless atties but, I like 1.8 ohms and they only make em in 1.5 and 2.5... and warn that using the 1.5s on egos might just kill the ego.

Thanks for any help!

Z
 

Unforeseen

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Maybe changing the subject just a bit here but... I have some Joye 2.4 ohm atties and, compared to my 1.8 ohm ciscos where I remove the wick, they seemed kinda slow, even taking into account the 2.4 ohms and, you can't easily remove the wick on the joyes because it runs between the bridge and the metal mesh and so... what I did was get a pliers and rip the bridge right off... and this got the bridge off along with the wick.

But, having done this, I got kinda concerned in vaping these, that I just might get some metal fragment in my vape. So, I guess my question is, if people remove their bridges, do they do it in a more civilized manner?

For me, I got every metal fragment out that I could but, was still concerned.

Yeah, would be easy to just go for cisco bridgeless atties but, I like 1.8 ohms and they only make em in 1.5 and 2.5... and warn that using the 1.5s on egos might just kill the ego.

Thanks for any help!

Z

If your really concerned about any debris then you can always clean your atomizer. That will get rid of it. When I remove the bridge of the atomizer. I slowly wiggle it from side to side until it completely comes out. There's little to no chance of any fragments of aluminum being left in the atomizer.

The reason for the warning is due to the ego's switch having a 2 amp limit.
 

PhreakySTS9

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I always dewick and debridge every atty I use. One of the main reasons I do, is aside from it just hitting better and being easier to maintain, it actually helps with airflow. I have a crapload of Joyetech atomizers, some of which have that nice airy draw I love, yet some of them had a tighter draw. Removing the wick and bridge actually makes the airflow better a lot of times. Plus you can make sure to get every single strand of wick out to prevent it from burning into the coil, giving you a burnt taste later on.
 

PhreakySTS9

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Maybe changing the subject just a bit here but... I have some Joye 2.4 ohm atties and, compared to my 1.8 ohm ciscos where I remove the wick, they seemed kinda slow, even taking into account the 2.4 ohms and, you can't easily remove the wick on the joyes because it runs between the bridge and the metal mesh and so... what I did was get a pliers and rip the bridge right off... and this got the bridge off along with the wick.

But, having done this, I got kinda concerned in vaping these, that I just might get some metal fragment in my vape. So, I guess my question is, if people remove their bridges, do they do it in a more civilized manner?

For me, I got every metal fragment out that I could but, was still concerned.

Yeah, would be easy to just go for cisco bridgeless atties but, I like 1.8 ohms and they only make em in 1.5 and 2.5... and warn that using the 1.5s on egos might just kill the ego.

Thanks for any help!

Z
By far the easiest way to debridge is to first take your tweezers and slide the mesh covering the bridge over the side. Wiggle the mesh pieces back and forth until they seperate. You want to get all of the mesh pieces before you take the bridge out. If you leave the mesh until after you take the bridge out, you may be there for 5 minutes wiggling it back and forth. If you take the mesh off FIRST, the bridge practically just slides out by itself, barely any wiggling is needed. It's literally a difference between 5 minutes and 5 seconds.

You CAN just rip it out and you may get lucky and have it work, but more than likely if you keep trying it you're going to rip the coil, or another part of the internals out and ruin that brand new atomizer. Trust me. First get however much of the wick you can out by using a sewing needle or something similar to pull it from under the bridge(not the RHCP song) and use your tweezers to slowly wiggle it out. Then you want to slide the mesh off the bridge down to the side. Grab the mesh, rock it back and forth until you get every piece(obviously the mesh covering the bridge, NOT the mesh from down in the atomizer! LOL). And once you get the mesh out the bridge will wiggle right out like butter.

Just to make myself absolutely 100% clear. While debridging, you should NEVER just pull anything out. Not the wick, not the bridge, nor the mesh that covers the bridge. You need to wiggle it(with a little bit of force though, just not a lot) back and forth until it breaks free itself. NEVER JUST PULL IT OUT! You will likely damage your atomizer.
 
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Zaratoughda

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Hmmmm... if the ego has a 2 amp limit, then that would mean, at 3.4 volts, a lower resistance limit of 1.7 ohms and.... the 1.8 and 2.0 ohm atties would be above this limit and thus no need for any warning.

Also, on an ego, I had this juice that was burning on a 2.0 ohm boge 306 carto and, I took the carto off and measured the resistance and, it was 1.4 ohms (e.g. a bad carto), which would be 2.4 amps. The point here is that, if the ego could not put out 2.4 amps, the juice would not have been burning. So, looks like it was indeed putting out 2.4 amps.

Uh, if this was a limit of what the ego could handle without danger of being damaged, was this for older egos or some of the newer ones (with joyeteck or ego-t lettering on them)?
 

FrostyDream

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i suggest to just keep vaping that atomizer. depending on the atty, it may take a good deal of vaping before it fullly breaks in and starts giving you optimum draws.
a lot of times there is primer in the brand new atty and blowing it out prior to use helps a lot. if you have not done that, try it. or just keep dripping and puffing away on that atty until the primer is gone. youll know once your flavor improves that the primer is gone.
also, you may want to look into drip shields. i swear by them.
how long can that take? i got a 3 ohm 510 and the taste will not go away. i blew the primer out and i make sure its wet enough and to vape at appropriate voltages but i still get a chemical burnt taste. ive been vaping it for about 2 hours and still gettin the taste... i tried putting it in hot water but to no avail. should i keep vaping?
 

Kemosabe

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how long can that take? i got a 3 ohm 510 and the taste will not go away. i blew the primer out and i make sure its wet enough and to vape at appropriate voltages but i still get a chemical burnt taste. ive been vaping it for about 2 hours and still gettin the taste... i tried putting it in hot water but to no avail. should i keep vaping?

it can take quite a while. it could be 1 milliliter of juice, it could be several. i suggest buying atties with no primer in them. empire mods makes a great atty, and to boot, they use no primer. they also have bridgeless ones.
my suggestion for your stubborn atty is to rinse it with hot water, soak it in vodka, then dry burn.
 
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