I just cleaned my atomizer head as my tank had gotten flooded. I dry burned it and added some wick that had been used in another head. But now I'm getting a burnt taste, could it be the wick?
First time experiencing burnt taste
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Yes, it could be the wick. But give us some more to work with. What tank is it? What PV are you using and what voltage/watts is it set at?
It's a protank 2 mini. It's an Ego C Upgrade battery which I think runs at 3.7volts and a 2.2 ohm atomizer. I noticed that there was burnt on gunk on the coil itself after dry burning it and running it under some water. I would have used some compressed air if I had some to try and clean it out a little bit. I suppose that's more of the issue than the wick, but I don't know.
Should be fine if you just pulse in 3-5 second intervals. i have yet to burn the grommet.
Even stranger is I get a burnt taste from my Aspire tank using the same juice at the same voltage when it was fine two puffs before. I have to lower the voltage a couple of clicks and it's good again. Next session, I can bump up the voltage again and it's ok, then...
Now that I think about it, could be a inconsistant coil. Will try replacing it.
Now that I think about it, could be a inconsistant coil. Will try replacing it.
Aren't there rubber grommets on all atomizer heads? I thought dry burning was essential.
That sounds like a wicking issue to me. Try taking stiffer draws or lowering the voltage. Some of the clearo heads have a hard time keeping up the wicking, more so with thick, high VG liquids.
Uhm how should i explain, in kanger/evod heads the coils threading goes down into the rubber grommet. (positive & negative end)Which could yeild into "hot legs" those legs that's attached there gets heated up and melts the grommet. They look like that by design.
There's a solution (which i haven't tried) is to use NR-R-NR(no resistance - resistance - no resistance) wire. The NR parts will be the legs, they won't lead so they won't get hot.
If you check this you'll understand what i mean
And you'll learn something nice aswell. When you're ready for it i recommend trying this out! (There's where i'm at atm, trying to recoil them)Mini Protank Micro Coil Rebuild - YouTube
I have to soak my Kanger coils in vodka & rinse out after a dry-burn or they taste bad. I do the same thing with brand new coils to get rid of the machine oil taste.
I have also had several defective Kanger coils that shorted soon after being installed, were very slow to fully heat up, wouldn't completely heat up, developed hot spots and on a couple, the wire itself seemed to be too thin in spots and literally fell apart. I think it was a bad run because they were all in the same 6 week period. 2 blew in a single day. I haven't had any recently and still using the same tanks & batteries.
I have also had several defective Kanger coils that shorted soon after being installed, were very slow to fully heat up, wouldn't completely heat up, developed hot spots and on a couple, the wire itself seemed to be too thin in spots and literally fell apart. I think it was a bad run because they were all in the same 6 week period. 2 blew in a single day. I haven't had any recently and still using the same tanks & batteries.
I get the Kanger coils only in the black box. That seemed to solve my problems. I also have a Nautilus, a Hypertank, and all versions of Protanks and different Carto's. I'm willing to bet it's the wick.
Uhm how should i explain, in kanger/evod heads the coils threading goes down into the rubber grommet. (positive & negative end)Which could yeild into "hot legs" those legs that's attached there gets heated up and melts the grommet. They look like that by design.
There's a solution (which i haven't tried) is to use NR-R-NR(no resistance - resistance - no resistance) wire. The NR parts will be the legs, they won't lead so they won't get hot.
If you check this you'll understand what i mean
Mini Protank Micro Coil Rebuild - YouTube
I don't yet have a multi-meter, so rebuilding the coil itself is a no go.
"I get the Kanger coils only in the black box"
I don't understand? You can choose? Also, I guess this is a thread about coils and wicks so, I'll pose my question. Don't Laugh!!
I bought these pre made coils and wicks but I'm not sure how or where to use them? I've got ChiYu coming tomorrow but, I'm not sure if these are for that?
I forget which of these but, one of them has extremely short wicks. Maybe someone could recommend the best type of wick? Not budget best, just best?
I don't understand? You can choose? Also, I guess this is a thread about coils and wicks so, I'll pose my question. Don't Laugh!!
I bought these pre made coils and wicks but I'm not sure how or where to use them? I've got ChiYu coming tomorrow but, I'm not sure if these are for that?
I forget which of these but, one of them has extremely short wicks. Maybe someone could recommend the best type of wick? Not budget best, just best?
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Yes . I used to get them in a white box and they sucked but someone told me about the black box and they make a world of difference.
. I used to get them in a white box and they sucked but someone told me about the black box and they make a world of difference.
I have noticed a ton of burning with my halo tanks, these are a few things i do now that have drastically reduces burning.
#1 take it easy, don't do massively long hauls or the heater will get so hot it burns the liquid instead of vaping it. Instead hold button for few seconds, let go for a second, rinse and repeat.(I use all manual batteries).
#2 chain vaping = faster dead wicks, they need time to absorb more juice.
#3 fresh battery charges tend to burn the wick hotter(unless using variable voltage), so be extra careful with the previous tips i mentioned
#4 don't over tighten anything, especially the battery as it just gives more contact and stronger/hotter coils.
#5 too high voltage/to low resistance, find a good chart and use it(can be subjective and has plenty of variables...like tank/battery type)
Hope this was all relevant to you and helps.
#1 take it easy, don't do massively long hauls or the heater will get so hot it burns the liquid instead of vaping it. Instead hold button for few seconds, let go for a second, rinse and repeat.(I use all manual batteries).
#2 chain vaping = faster dead wicks, they need time to absorb more juice.
#3 fresh battery charges tend to burn the wick hotter(unless using variable voltage), so be extra careful with the previous tips i mentioned
#4 don't over tighten anything, especially the battery as it just gives more contact and stronger/hotter coils.
#5 too high voltage/to low resistance, find a good chart and use it(can be subjective and has plenty of variables...like tank/battery type)
Hope this was all relevant to you and helps.
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