Fixing Cracked Vision Clear-O-Mizers

[moultons]

I've read a lot of tales here about cracks forming in the tanks of Vision Clear-O-Mizers (aka 'Stardust'), and when one of mine developed cracks so bad that it began to leak, the model builder in me came out, and here's how to repair the cracks:

1) Clean it with hot water, inside and out. Don't try to disassemble it because you'll just risk making the cracks worse.
2) Apply a small amount of plastic weld to the cracks. I use Ambroid ProWeld for Styrene, Butyrate, ABS, and Acrylic (Lucite or Plexiglas). The liquid is sucked into the cracks by capillary action and literally melts and 'welds' the plastic back together, unlike CA or other adhesives that simply glue the material.
3) Let it dry for about 12 hours and then wash it again, just to be safe.
4) When you cover the base with your finger and suck on the mouthpiece, if you can draw a vacuum, you've repaired all the cracks; if not, do it again.

This won't prevent new cracks from forming, but they can be easily repaired this way, and the tank should last as long as the coil. I've gone through several refills with no further leaks. Give it a try!

 

[CountSmackula]

Rockin'! Where would one find this miracle substance? Hobby shop or interwebs?

p.s. How's the repair look? Cloudy, melted or still fairly clear?

 

[moultons]

Most hobby shops, both physical and virtual have this or a similar product. Just be sure to get one that works on a wide range of plastics, and not just styrene.
If you're careful when you apply it, there's just a little surface crazing in the area of the cracks.

 

[CountSmackula]

Excellent. Thanks much!

 

[CountSmackula]

Our 'local' hobby shops didn't have it (or anything really similar), so I snagged some off the net. I've got some single whisker brushes from my miniature painting days that ought to put it on in a controlled manner.

Question: Did you clamp? Finger squeeze? Or just let it flow and set?

 

[moultons]

Actually, the crack is already under sufficient pressure. Just apply it sparingly and let it wick into the cracks; no additional pressure is required.

 

[CountSmackula]

Thanks again! Can't wait to get them back into rotation.

 

[daveinleics]

Thanks for that info moultons - I've just ordered some, it sounds like very useful stuff as well as repairing stardusts!

 

[tyefighter]

is it going to be food safe ?

 

[mostlyclassics]

is it going to be food safe ?

tyefighter, it's a solvent which dissolves the plastic to make the bond, not a "glue" per se. Once it's thoroughly dried, all the solvent has evaporated, and you're left with the same plastic you started out with.

 

[Head Hunter]

is it going to be food safe ?

was ya planning to eat it then ? lol

 

[tyefighter]

i would have thought there would have been some residue left over still.... Ambroid do a safe weld product that is non toxic

 

[tyefighter]

was ya planning to eat it then ? lol

inhaling it Heady ...i dont know but it may interact with the juice as we know certain juice interacts with certain plastics

just throwing it out there for people that may know better than i

 

[moultons]

mostlyclassics is correct; after the chemical does its work, it evaporates. But notice that I specified in Step 3 that you should wash the clear-o-mizer again afterwards, just in case.

 

[Vinny]

I got some tubing from Aquatec Eco Systems. Rigid clear tubing that was the perfect size for the CE-2s. I had to use an arbor press to put it on but it's a good fit, no leaks and as I recall it's pharmaceutical grade. I don't see any mention of pharma on their site now tho (unless I'm looking at the wrong item right now). Cuts with a box cutter (not easily but does) and seems to work fine. I'm still testing it tho.