Wrapped a coil on my new genesis all coils lit up the same and measured 1.8 on my provari, put some juice in the tank and was getting good taste and vapor, cranked up the voltage to like 4v and after a minute I got a dry hit, took off the cap and powered on the device, coils lit up pretty quick and bam a flame started!!!! Anyone experience this? What's the deal??
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e-juice will burn at high temps. It usually goes through a phase change (liquid to gas) 1st but that gas could ignite at high temps I guess. Those of us that oxidize stainless steel mesh over a flame know that e-juice burns if given enough heat.
1.8 ohms at "like 4 volts"...well actually 4.0 vols... is only 8.88889 watts. So I'm betting you had a short and a very hot spot. Did the coil break? Does the e-juice have alcohol in it?
Odd that it would ignite at that wattage.
1.8 ohms at "like 4 volts"...well actually 4.0 vols... is only 8.88889 watts. So I'm betting you had a short and a very hot spot. Did the coil break? Does the e-juice have alcohol in it?
Odd that it would ignite at that wattage.
ejuice will burn if it gets hot enough. My guess is that your mesh isn't wicking fast enough to keep up with higher voltages. You need to either roll your mesh a little looser or go with the next size larger mesh. It could also be your juice. thicker juices will not wick as easily as thinner juices. Adding a few drops of de-ionized, distilled or tap water to your juice in the tank might fix your problem as well.
The coils can get red, as long as they are equally red. But that being said, if they are red...you're going to have a (hot tasting) vape hit. I feel you get a better tasting thicker vape if they don't glow. How many coils are you wrapping? And what resistance are you getting? Is the resistance constant or are you getting variable resistance? Variable resistance can be a sign of a bad connection with the coil.
weak wicking action it sounds like. maybe rolled to tight and is choking off OR the coils are way too loose.
if the wick is doing its job then the coils shouldnt be glowing.
if the wick is doing its job then the coils shouldnt be glowing.
The AGA-T Plus. I recommend making the following modifications to it though, buy the smallest stainless washers you can find at the local hardware store. They will cost about 6 cents each. Take a bic pen, the kind that retracts. Pull it apart and take the spring out. Throw the pen away and cut about a third of the spring off. Take all of the nuts off of the center positive post. screw one of the large nuts down as far as it will go. Put the 1/3 spring on the center post and work the bottom of it over the nut. Put two washers on and top the whole thing off with another large nut.
This will give you a hot spot free, quick release positive attachment point. It fixed 99.9% of all the problems I was having with the AGA-T.
The best looking drip tip to get for it is the "stainless steel hourglass" (in my opinion). IBTanked sells high quality Pyrex replacement glass in two different thicknesses for these too. Which is another big plus in it's favor.
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The AGA-T Plus. I recommend making the following modifications to it though, buy the smallest stainless washers you can find at the local hardware store. They will cost about 6 cents each. Take a bic pen, the kind that retracts. Pull it apart and take the spring out. Throw the pen away and cut about a third of the spring off. Take all of the nuts off of the center positive post. screw on of the large nuts down as far as it will go. Put the 1/3 spring on the center post and work the bottom of it over the nut. Put two washers on and top the whole thing off with another large nut.
View attachment 176482
This will give you a hot spot free, quick release positive attachment point. It fixed 99.9% of all the problems I was having with the AGA-T.
The best looking drip tip to get for it is the "stainless steel hourglass" (in my opinion). IBTanked sells high quality Pyrex replacement glass in two different thicknesses for these too. Which is another big plus in it's favor.
Thanks for the tip PLANofMAN, I'll try your advice. I noticed in your excellent photo of the AGA T that your coil appears to be attached to the negative post opposing the SS wick. I attached my negative screw on the hole that is next to the wick. Is this incorrect, or does it not matter?
I just made my first wick (500) and coil (30g) last night for my AGA T+. The coil glows lightly and evenly. The coil's resistance checked at 1.3 ohm on my Provari, no error readings after some adjustments of the coil. I'm currently running it at 3.4 volts on the Provari and 3.7v on my Silver Bullet. I'm getting more vapor production with this than any other delivery device I've owned. The flavor's not bad, but not great yet. I've read that there can be a breaking in period when first set up?
Next coil I will likely make additional wraps to increase the resistance.
Comments. Suggestions?
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The AGA-T Plus. I recommend making the following modifications to it though, buy the smallest stainless washers you can find at the local hardware store. They will cost about 6 cents each. Take a bic pen, the kind that retracts. Pull it apart and take the spring out. Throw the pen away and cut about a third of the spring off. Take all of the nuts off of the center positive post. screw on of the large nuts down as far as it will go. Put the 1/3 spring on the center post and work the bottom of it over the nut. Put two washers on and top the whole thing off with another large nut.
View attachment 176482
This will give you a hot spot free, quick release positive attachment point. It fixed 99.9% of all the problems I was having with the AGA-T.
The best looking drip tip to get for it is the "stainless steel hourglass" (in my opinion). IBTanked sells high quality Pyrex replacement glass in two different thicknesses for these too. Which is another big plus in it's favor.
Good going man. The world needs more smart thinking, intelligent people like you. I wish you were the president, because you seem intelligent enough to know that borrowing the largest (and previously unheard of amount) sum of money in the history of the universe is a stupid thing, and will eventually destroy our country!
Sorry for the rant. Good job man.
DEBT IN $100 DOLLAR BILLS.
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I never thought about doing that. I don't know as it would matter. It's one of the "why in the hell would they do that" things that the Chinese manufacturers do. Putting the negative post on the other side of the atty from the wick is just another example. Now you've got me wondering if the entire negative post can be unscrewed and moved to the spot next to the wick.
I was using 32 awg kanthal wire in the picture above. 6 wraps is giving me 2 oHm and it's tasting mighty nice on a Vamo at 11 watts. On my V1 ProVari it takes a few priming vapes to get the vapor rolling nicely unless I crank the voltage up, in which case I get error codes. I'll need to take a wrap or two off to get it to play nicely with the ProVari I think.
It does take a day or two for the wick to season. I think that's a more accurate term than "break in." You will notice less Pluid (...I mean fluid
) consumption once the wick is seasoned, and the taste will improve. The pic above is after a few hours of vaping with a new wick and coil.
I think it is press fit, not screwed. I always thought that post was for a different configuration. Everyone I have seen uses the negative screw next to the wick.
This kind of came out of left field at me...
Thanks for the compliment.
***WARNING, THREAD HIJACK IN PROGRESS***
I wouldn't want to be president, and I never would want that kind of responsibility. I feel that taking the ability to discipline children away from parents and removing God from schools has done more harm to this country than our financial troubles ever have or will (in my very "not politically correct" opinion). Regardless, America will survive. Perhaps not as a world power, or as a leader among the nations, but this country will survive.
I love your Patton avatar by the way.
***I NOW RETURN YOU TO YOUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED THREAD.***
Now you have seen someone do it differently...
I switched it over after reading your post, which dropped the ohms down to 1.9 from 2.0 and I was able to drop the wattage down to 4 from 11. Thanks! That also solved the error codes I was getting on the ProVari with the AGA-T!
Any newer computer.
I was running a silica setup until I got the bugs worked out with the Genisis Atomizer.
AGA-T on a Vamo
AGA-T on a ProVari
Correct configuration, with negative lead on the screw next to the wick. The spring shows up a bit better in this picture as well. In case you are wondering, the wick is pressed against the IBTanked "thick" version Pyrex glass. It's awesome stuff, you can see how thick it really is.
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