Flashlight mod extras to keep in mind

[bstedh]

If the flashlight isn't quit deep enough for what you want to do.

A 3/4" copper pipe coupler makes a great extension for the cheepy flashlight mods.

You may even have enough room to put a buck/boost circuit in a flashlight now.

I was thinking about making an 18650 flashlight mod but they just aren't deep enough. So I brought my flashlight to the hardware store and it looked like the 3/4 coupler would work as it was ever so slightly bigger than the inside of the flashlight.

What I did was bevel one end and then just hammered it into the flashlight body. It wanted to go crooked a couple of times so you have to keep an eye on it as it's going in. You can get about an inch and a half extra room or more with this. It's supper tight so it's not coming back out and it has good electrical contact with the flashlight body. Make sure you use a piece of wood on both ends when pounding so as not do damage the ends. You can even see a slight bulge to the body when you are done.

Caution: you can split the flashlight tube if you get a little too energetic.

Another thing that looks like it will be useful for spacers are Slideglide 7/8" Furniture Sliders #9456 by Sheperd hardware products. If you need to close up some extra space inside of the flashlight these are an almost perfect fit and are just loose enough if you need a floating spacer. Otherwise just glue them into place. The connector I am using will glue perfectly into the center hole after removing the internal washer giving you a nicely centered and finished look to the top of your flashlight. Just cut the black rubber bottom off with a razor knife to remove the washer or leave it in place. which ever works best for you.
SlideGlide

Here it is with an 808 connector sitting in it. This is just a mock up and nothing is glued in place.

Ooops I forgot to remove the label before hammering in the coupler good thing this is just a prototype. Also you might just be able to tell I was hammering directly on the copper instead of using a block of wood =]

and here it is with a 510 connector sitting in it.

I still have to find something to use as a battery spacer so the 18650 isn't wobbling around inside there.

 

[bstedh]

Using these pieces I have created the "Really Ugly Stick".

Everything except the connector came from the local hardware store.
I used a doorbell switch. I had to take it apart and remove the lamp from the inside of it. I may install an LED in there in the future.
For the connector I used a 510to808 adapter as it was what I had on hand. Luckily I also have 808to510 adapters so it quickly became a 510 also.
18650 battery with some cardboard spacer in the tube.
1" Heat shrink around the copper and then the middle of the flashlight for looks.
Everything is hot glued in place so it can be torn down for parts for a future mod.
I have been running 1 battery all day and it is still at 3.8V using a 1.25ohm Dual Coil.
The copper extension balanced the weight out fairly nice with the 18650.

 

[outofjuice]

wow very sexy mod i was also thinking of a 18650 flashlight mod figured the 3xAAA flashlight would work but its a bit short i may have to use this idea lol dont get the patent just yet

 

[bstedh]

The nice thing is that if you just need a little more room and not a lot you can just cut the copper down to the size you need. The doorbell switch was a little hokey but I wanted to use stuff strictly from the hardware store in case I had to put together an emergency vape. Once I started looking at parts I figured what the heck I might as well put it all together and prove it will work. =]

Oh and to keep with the emergency vape idea I ripped apart a laptop battery for the 18650's. They are unprotected so I keep checking the voltage several times a day. =]

 

[VWFringe]

the things we'll do for a little threaded tail, i mean tail-piece

I just bought an 8-pack at home depot, can't figure out WHAT I'M gonna do with them - i was hoping for something more than a tube with a threaded ring at one end (think i'll put a micro-switch in the tail piece to replace the clickie)

thanks for reminding me the other reason i should attach these circuit protection boards before gifting them, lol, they'd vape them too low to charge, hahahaha

 

[bstedh]

Yea, I am ordering some protection boards for my batteries. I just haven't figured out how I am going to wire them to the battery as of yet. I have some NOEGO mods on the way so I wan't to make sure They will still fit inside once I put the extra pieces on the battery and heat shrink it all...

 

[bstedh]

I have a friend that runs a computer repair shop. So, if I am able to come up with a good method of wiring the protection circuits I will have a really good supply of free + board cost batteries.

 

[VWFringe]

yeah, haven't sourced the flat wire yet, can't find anything less than alibaba size reels, so let's post it if we find it

thx,
most expensive free bats in the friggin world, lol

 

[TomCatt]

Excellent work, b! Way to think outside the box(mod)

 

[bstedh]

Starting V2 with a mosfet switch.

The board was formed by rough cutting out a chunk of prototype board, enlarging the center most hole and screwing the board to a cutting wheel chuck for the dremel. Then placing it the dremel like you would a cutting wheel and spinning it against sandpaper. This gives you a perfect circle. You have to keep checking your progress until you get just the right diameter. I went a little smaller than the inside of the tube to allow for the negative wire that wraps around the edge of the board and still get a snug fit. Also I took a cutting wheel and carefully ground off any copper along the edge to prevent any possible shorting with the body.

Positive battery spring

Here you can see the completed board. It would have been cleaner but I took the first fet off thinking it was bad only to discover that my hands where conduction enough charge to turn it on. =]

The wire you see on the side is the - wire. It makes contact with the body when pressed into the tube. Also one of the LED's from the flash light was soldered between the - wire and one of the poles of the switch.

This shows how the board fits into the tube.

This is how the furniture slider top cap will sit above the board. The connector will get the + and - wires soldered to it and glued into the top of the cap.

Next I need to clean up my desk before the wife gets home and move out the the garage so I can drill the switch hole and pound the tube into the flashlight body prior to final assembly.

I will post a couple more pics of the finished flashlight.

Now that I'm getting a little better with these boards and surface mount components I will be moving onto more complex circuits.

 

[bstedh]

Well I had to add 30K ohms in parallel with the LED. Once it turned on it would stay on. The resistors fixed that. I used a couple of supper tiny smd resistors between the legs of the Fet. Otherwise it is complete and working good.

Circuit board pushed into place. I added hot glue down the tube to hold everything in place after this. I only put a little around the edges so that the Fet can dissipate heat and the switch would not get gummed up.

Test fire before placing the cap piece.

Finished

Drilled a couple of holes in the side so the LED could shine.

 

[GERGOZ]

love it, mr bstedh, and the duals, lol !

i hope to be at a super modder level, as yourself, one of these days
love to watch yall work...

g'night,

gervis

 

[bstedh]

super modder level

Not even close yet. There are others on the forum that have way more knowledge and expertise than me =] I am still learning and re-learning as I go.

Next I will be working on a small VV circuit now that I have regained some of my soldering skills. Hands still shake to much for my liking.

 

[GERGOZ]

modesty is a virtue...

you will always have my admiration

thanks for all you do and share

gervis

 

[asnider123]

WOW! You are an inspiration! Never thought of lengthening a 3-AAA FL to accommodate extra components, been trying just to squish in what I can and cross my fingers. Very nice concept PV!!!

 

[asnider123]

Draw-down resistor: yes, it is required I think to avoid latching your MOSFET. You can use any value, I use 10M from source to gate, very small amount of current when not activated, any value will work unless yer using it for a touch-mod.

Good job