Flooding Cartomizer on a DCT tank

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lrage

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Nov 22, 2010
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Tank Tool/Filler Tip - Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks

tank-tool-t.jpg


This makes tank usage much better. First, it eliminates flooding since you're not pushing your top cap down putting pressure in the tank (in fact, you'll basically never take your caps off unless you want to clean the tank. Second, it saves wear and tear on your orings. Third it makes filling your tank a 5 second process. Literally.

I was an experienced tank user and picked one up when I got my phiniac tank and it's a game changer.
 

Baditude

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Huge fan of the tank accessory tools. I have the above Phiniac tank tool, also. It's actually manufactured by Siam Mods. This tool does what it was meant to do, but I had issues with it's design. There's not enough of the tool to hold on to to remove it from the cartomizer. There's the little indentation that you can put a fingernail in, but the tool fits mighty tight and it can be a pain to remove just by that.

The Slap-yo-Moma tool sold by Big Daddy Vapor is a better designed tool. It costs a little more, but it is totally worth it. I use it all the time over the Siam Mods tool. There is a stainless steel version, and a cheaper black delrin version, also.

 

lrage

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It's probably a preference. I think the slap yo mamma is too tall. If I tried refilling with my bigger juice bottles where pbusardo does in the video my juice would spill back out over the top.

What I like about the other one is I pull it under the cap and refill. I've never had a problem pulling it out of the carto, but I use mostly flanged cartos. That's about to change though since I just ordered some ikenvape platniums so I'll see if that thought changes since they aren't flanged.
 

romaniac

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Nov 21, 2009
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www.jazzcartopipe.com
There is a new CE2 style tank cartomizers. I have been using one for one week continuously on my pipes and tube mods. Basically is a bottom coil cartomizer. In pictures does not look like a bottom coil but when is inside the tank the 2 large holes in the stainless tube are at the bottom of the tank. No gurgling no flooding no problems! It will not flood with very low liquid level in the tank! This particular cartomizer I have been testing is a 2 ohm single coil and I am really looking foreword to try the new 1.7 ohm single coil ones i just ordered . I am so happy with the performance that i will recommend all my Jazz Cartotank customers to switch from cartomizers to this new ones.

ce2dctreplacementcarto2.jpg


If you like tanks this is something you have to try.

Romaniac
 

Ben C.

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FWIW re: the filling tools...

I like them when inserting the carto, to keep the sharp edges from slicing an o-ring. But for filling... with a pre-punched carto (not laser)... not so much. The reason is that when you slide the carto from the top down to fill, the punches are indentations and will not form a perfect seal if they are slid to that lower cap o-ring level (which is where I need to slide the carto down to get enough space to fill from the top. So, juice pours out from the bottom. I'm sure that laser punched cartos do not have this problem.

The easiest way I've found is to fill from the bottom (thread end). Just pop the threaded end into the tank, fill in the gap provided, and then push it from your drip tip end back into the tank to seat it properly. Boom. Takes a few seconds, and I haven't even need to wipe anything down afterward.
 

Baditude

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FWIW re: the filling tools...

I like them when inserting the carto, to keep the sharp edges from slicing an o-ring. But for filling... with a pre-punched carto (not laser)... not so much. The reason is that when you slide the carto from the top down to fill, the punches are indentations and will not form a perfect seal if they are slid to that lower cap o-ring level (which is where I need to slide the carto down to get enough space to fill from the top. So, juice pours out from the bottom. I'm sure that laser punched cartos do not have this problem.

The easiest way I've found is to fill from the bottom (thread end). Just pop the threaded end into the tank, fill in the gap provided, and then push it from your drip tip end back into the tank to seat it properly. Boom. Takes a few seconds, and I haven't even need to wipe anything down afterward.
This method only works if you use flangeless cartos. If using a carto with any size flange, the flange prevents the carto from entering through the bottom endcap. :)

When refilling a tank using tool-punched cartos with a tank filling tool, pull the carto down farther than you were. When the holes are exposed beyond the bottom cap, pinch them with your finger and thumb to block any juice from leaking out while you fill the tank.
 
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Mr_Phil

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My roughstack became too unreliable so when a real brick and mortar vape store opened in my area I had to scope them out. I ended up getting an ego c-twist with a clearomiser. I don't like teh clearomiser as it wicks way to slow for me. I was using 2.5 ohm carts in my tank, but the lower voltage on the ego wasn't playing nice. So I ordered some 1.5 ohm DC flanged cartos from madvapes. I am not an electronic hobby guy so I went by the handy ohm card madvapes packs in every order. The new carts are 808d and so I had to use the 510 to 808 adapter I used on the roughstack.

Something isn't right. I twist the volts to 4.8 and I can hear the sizzle, but get no vapor. At lower voltages I get a mouthful of hot juice but no vapor. The cart is flooding. I tossed the cart and put in a new one. Got 20 drops in it and am letting it rest. Then I will refill the tank and try it again on the lowest setting.

I like the c-twist (and the vision spinner I just got as my backup) and really hope I can get my trusty tank going again. The clearo has to be refilled way too many times during the day.
 
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