fluctuating ohms and voltage on my mod ?
- Thread starter Terry Koontz
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Could be a loose tank, e-Liquid on the 510 or a loose coil in the tank to e-Liquid on the coil 510 connection. Without more info this is just guessing. And like @Wheelin247 said the grub screws............
How much does it fluctuate? Since it's a manufactured coil head that narrows it down a little.
I agree with @SteveS45, could be juice on the 510 and maybe even a loose coil to juice on the positive pin on the deck of the tank causing it to not have good contact.
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I agree with @SteveS45, could be juice on the 510 and maybe even a loose coil to juice on the positive pin on the deck of the tank causing it to not have good contact.
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Looks like a loose atty.
That damn Eleaf Pico has always had the loose problem.
Before it would say “no atomizer”.
So, on another note, is a burnt metallic taste a sign of time to change coil ?
That damn Eleaf Pico has always had the loose problem.
Before it would say “no atomizer”.
So, on another note, is a burnt metallic taste a sign of time to change coil ?
Did you get it fixed?
I'm no help on the taste...I'm an RDA and RTA user. I don't use any coil heads cause I can't stand the restricted air flow feeling and the long cotton break in period. I like to build coils, wick, juice up and start vaping with the break in period being maybe 3-4 hits max.
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In my opinion............... Sheet Yeah! Do you really need to ask? Once you burn the cotton the coil is done for and time to change. I recently had a coil I forgot to turn down the wattage when I switched tanks that I noticed when I got a hot hit. So it was good for a bit but then tasted burned. So I changed it out and did an autopsy on the old one to find burned cotton in the center but not visible.
I’m getting tired of this Eleaf Pico.
So, what’s a good similar mod ?
I use 0.5 ohm dropin coils at 35 W.
I like a mod that uses replaceable batteries.
And that does not cost a lot.
So, what’s a good similar mod ?
I use 0.5 ohm dropin coils at 35 W.
I like a mod that uses replaceable batteries.
And that does not cost a lot.
Yes, I need to ask !
I’ve never had the burnt metallic taste and I’d like a key to when to replace.
I would say a good cheap mod would be the RX200s or even the RX300. Never had a problem with mind before I switch to mechs, unregulated mods and lipo mods. They are under $50. The RX200s is a triple 18650 and the RX300 is a quad 18650. Lots of battery life at 35W. I vapes at 170W-250E with both of them and they would last all day for me so you would get 2 days out of them easy.
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You have not been on here long and I remember trying to help you when you first started but man you have a lot of problems. If it doesn't taste right it is time to change the coil!
Glad to try and be of help but you need to sit back and vape because in two months you have run into more problems than I can even think of in the time I have been vaping. Concentrate on one device and get to know it top to bottom before you go off into the rabbit hole.
You haven't answered the questions folks asked you before this post, about how much fluctuation. That makes a difference
. If you don't give us enough information it's really hard to help you.Also, I have always made sure to figure out best I could what caused a problem I was having before changing hardware. If you don't do this, you don't know what was wrong and you risk having the same issues all over again with the new gear.
Really, Steve gave you great advice about sticking with one device until you understand it thoroughly before moving on. And that goes for the mod, the attty and the heads.
Best of luck with it
Hmmm... my Pico mods have been very easy to get along with, at least for my modest tank collection. They've all worked well.
It would be helpful to know what tank/atty you're working with. I had a Tron-T tank with an airflow adjustment collar that prevented a good connection to the 510 on the mod.
And yeah, a burnt anything taste is a dead giveaway for a coil change.
Don't give up in the Pico yet. There aren't many devices at that price point with its reliability and versatility.
It would be helpful to know what tank/atty you're working with. I had a Tron-T tank with an airflow adjustment collar that prevented a good connection to the 510 on the mod.
And yeah, a burnt anything taste is a dead giveaway for a coil change.
Don't give up in the Pico yet. There aren't many devices at that price point with its reliability and versatility.
Don't know if this contributed to your problems, just throwing it out there.
Some folks new to vaping think they should tighten the delivery device until no gap is visible, some crank them down tight like they're tightening a nut & bolt.
Even doing this a few times can wreck the 510 connection, you'll end up with the problems you describe.
Tighten just enough to prevent wobble/movement.
The slight gap between the delivery & power device is intentional, this little air space helps prevent heat transfer from the delivery device to the power device.
Sure, some combo's do not have this gap at all.
When the Ω fluctuates the voltage has to fluctuate to provide your set wattage.
10w ~ 1Ω / 3.16v
10w ~ .9Ω / 3v
10w ~ .7Ω / 2.64v
* Of course without knowing how much fluctuation you're talking about no one can really give any accurate help/answer.
Metallic taste usually comes from hot spots in the coil, or any part of the coil or legs arcing to the body of the head, yes this happens with replaceable heads too.
Could be caused by a bad head, usually it is caused by folks that don't fully saturate / prime new heads & zap them initially with too much power.
Always thoroughly saturate wicking material & start off at a much lower power for the first half tank or so. Then gradually work your way up to find you sweet spot.
This can also be a sign the insulator in the head is cracked, split, melted, burnt / no longer doing its job.
This is almost always caused by folks using too much power & melting the insulator, of course a screwed up 510 can cause arcing which will build up enough heat to wreck the insulator also.
There is no guarantee each replacement head will be consistent or remain anywhere near the resistance printed on the box or head body.
Every now & then you'll find some heads vape perfectly at 20w, the next head out of the same box may give nasty burnt hits at 12w.
Simple, vape that specific head at 12w or less, the next one out of the same box may vape great at 22w. Always start a new/unused head at a lower power & work your way up. Never zap them with the same power you were using with the old head.
You'll get much better head life doing this.
The Pico is a great device, better than many at double or more the price.
not trying to be rude, but, the tool is rarely the real problem.
Believe it or not there are clone Pico's on the market, not at all the same quality biggest give away is the crap 510, some have funky buttons on bottom, 'chip' quality inconsistent, TC doesn't work as well as authentic if at all.
Some folks new to vaping think they should tighten the delivery device until no gap is visible, some crank them down tight like they're tightening a nut & bolt.
Even doing this a few times can wreck the 510 connection, you'll end up with the problems you describe.
Tighten just enough to prevent wobble/movement.
The slight gap between the delivery & power device is intentional, this little air space helps prevent heat transfer from the delivery device to the power device.
Sure, some combo's do not have this gap at all.
When the Ω fluctuates the voltage has to fluctuate to provide your set wattage.
10w ~ 1Ω / 3.16v
10w ~ .9Ω / 3v
10w ~ .7Ω / 2.64v
* Of course without knowing how much fluctuation you're talking about no one can really give any accurate help/answer.
Metallic taste usually comes from hot spots in the coil, or any part of the coil or legs arcing to the body of the head, yes this happens with replaceable heads too.
Could be caused by a bad head, usually it is caused by folks that don't fully saturate / prime new heads & zap them initially with too much power.
Always thoroughly saturate wicking material & start off at a much lower power for the first half tank or so. Then gradually work your way up to find you sweet spot.
This can also be a sign the insulator in the head is cracked, split, melted, burnt / no longer doing its job.
This is almost always caused by folks using too much power & melting the insulator, of course a screwed up 510 can cause arcing which will build up enough heat to wreck the insulator also.
There is no guarantee each replacement head will be consistent or remain anywhere near the resistance printed on the box or head body.
Every now & then you'll find some heads vape perfectly at 20w, the next head out of the same box may give nasty burnt hits at 12w.
Simple, vape that specific head at 12w or less, the next one out of the same box may vape great at 22w. Always start a new/unused head at a lower power & work your way up. Never zap them with the same power you were using with the old head.
You'll get much better head life doing this.
The Pico is a great device, better than many at double or more the price.
not trying to be rude, but, the tool is rarely the real problem.
Believe it or not there are clone Pico's on the market, not at all the same quality biggest give away is the crap 510, some have funky buttons on bottom, 'chip' quality inconsistent, TC doesn't work as well as authentic if at all.
My fav 2 mods atm are really the Aspire evo75 (nx75)
and my new shiny wismec predator 228 :3
First one is a single 18650 but the predator is a dual (i barely use it at 50 watts,i took it for crazy battery life tbh).Unfortunately i've got no idea price wise since i'm not in the u.s.a so up to you to search
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