G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2

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Quigsworth

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You and about 40 other people that wanted PA + DT, got 43 assembled today, should go out Tuesday.
Dan

That's great!...I feel bad, I didn't realize the person I bought out was down for assembly, sheesh, that's me just not paying attention, I could of saved you..well, you probably have it down to 4:32 flat to make one of these now :laugh:
 

Scubabatdan

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That's great!...I feel bad, I didn't realize the person I bought out was down for assembly, sheesh, that's me just not paying attention, I could of saved you..well, you probably have it down to 4:32 flat to make one of these now :laugh:

Actually around 7 minutes, that includes the pull time of all the parts in the bag, and the epoxy drying time. Took me 5 hours to assemble 43 today. I think I have 60 or so to go.
Dan
 

DawnsFolly

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Actually around 7 minutes, that includes the pull time of all the parts in the bag, and the epoxy drying time. Took me 5 hours to assemble 43 today. I think I have 60 or so to go.
Dan

Geez, Dan, that's a lot of work alright. Thanks for assembling mine. I'll have to work to get the hang of this & having you put it together helps me out big time. Thanks again & there is beer at the end of this rainbow. :D
 

anorth_uk

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Yup, it was the GTUS that finally replaced dripping 3 ohm cisco 801's (which is a damn good light fruit atty, airy and cool but tons of vape)...I was actually seeking out a device that made a cool vape...the Sturm and the the Cyclone (brutal to get), the LV (I've heard things, not all good) but they're all cool which seemed like I said, characteristic of top tanks

If your thinking of getting a CyclonV2, you may want to get your name on the current list as there is a possibility it'll be the last lot due to them concentrating on a new hybrid

list is here Home Made Genesis Type Atty - Mod Maker Sales - UK Vapers - Page 81 max number they are making is 30 in the run
 

ED-209

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One other question....when you cut your piece of mesh, do you cut it diagonally on the sheet from corner to corner or does it matter since these aren't going to be U-shaped? I know I've seen a lot of posts about doing it from corner to corner to avoid crinks but didn't know if that issue would exist for straight wicks?

If you do cut them diagonally, what in the world is the best way to divide the sheet with minimum waste as I can't quite figure out the best way to cut the pieces going diagonally without wasting a lot.

Thanks,

Didn't see any responses when I first asked the above. Still curious to know how Dan or anyone else cuts their wick from the large piece of mesh.

Thanks, just getting prepared for when I go\turn green, hopefully soon :)
 

Quigsworth

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Didn't see any responses when I first asked the above. Still curious to know how Dan or anyone else cuts their wick from the large piece of mesh.

Thanks, just getting prepared for when I go\turn green, hopefully soon :)

I've done it both ways, straight and on the bias, and I didn't notice any difference aside from screwing up my wick count from a sheet of mesh, lol

Maybe if your special set-up is right on the edge of not wicking well the bias cut may make the difference but I've never "had" to do it, I did it more out of curiosity...
 

ED-209

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I've done it both ways, straight and on the bias, and I didn't notice any difference aside from screwing up my wick count from a sheet of mesh, lol

Maybe if your special set-up is right on the edge of not wicking well the bias cut may make the difference but I've never "had" to do it, I did it more out of curiosity...

LOL about screwing up the wick count as you should see mine he he. I think this got started mainly for the horseshoe wicks to avoid crinking but still very new to genesis patty's but eager to become a pro :)

Thanks Quigsworth for the help and info.
 

Quigsworth

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LOL about screwing up the wick count as you should see mine he he. I think this got started mainly for the horseshoe wicks to avoid crinking but still very new to genesis patty's but eager to become a pro :)

Thanks Quigsworth for the help and info.

I could see how a bias cut wick would help with the "U" or "horse shoe" wicks as they tend to kink when you bend them but a simple way to negate that with a straight cut is to twist or "screw" the wick while bending it...at least that works for me :)
 

bstedh

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For anyone who experiences gurgling. You are not necessarily over wicking or leaking. The air hole is at the very bottom of the vapor chamber and these things cause a large amount of condensate due to the all metal nature. This will pool at the bottom so look at how you are holding your PV and the position of the GTUS air hole. If it is in a downward position even a little condensate in the chamber will cause gurgling. I had to get used to holding My PV a certain way to prevent this. Also the threading all the way up the outer shell will also cause excessive condensate so you may need to un-screw the top occasionally and wipe the condensate away with a napkin.

The two i have built so far have a bit of a tight draw. When I set them up with the T-Tank it was a really tight draw and was a large contributor to my burnt taste. A quick solution was to pop the baffles out of the top of the T-tank to allow un-restricted air flow. Draw is still a little tight so I am going to enlarge the air hole on at least one by just a hair to open up the draw a little. I also plan on widening the top baffle on the T-tank and possibly adding 2 more holes to it.
 

perlionsmitnick

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For anyone who experiences gurgling. You are not necessarily over wicking or leaking. The air hole is at the very bottom of the vapor chamber and these things cause a large amount of condensate due to the all metal nature. This will pool at the bottom so look at how you are holding your PV and the position of the GTUS air hole. If it is in a downward position even a little condensate in the chamber will cause gurgling. I had to get used to holding My PV a certain way to prevent this. Also the threading all the way up the outer shell will also cause excessive condensate so you may need to un-screw the top occasionally and wipe the condensate away with a napkin.

The two i have built so far have a bit of a tight draw. When I set them up with the T-Tank it was a really tight draw and was a large contributor to my burnt taste. A quick solution was to pop the baffles out of the top of the T-tank to allow un-restricted air flow. Draw is still a little tight so I am going to enlarge the air hole on at least one by just a hair to open up the draw a little. I also plan on widening the top baffle on the T-tank and possibly adding 2 more holes to it.

Good. It's not just me. I thought the air draw was also as you describe "too tight" and I'm getting condensation galore. I drilled my single inlet hole out to the smallest bit I had. Looks like a 2mm (18 ga needle fits in it easily) and the draw is much more easy. The only problem I'm having now is finding that sweet spot on the mesh diameter and the coil wraps. I also used some left over metric nuts from the SG3 build on the negative screw in the base of the bottom piece just to prevent wire hot spots. I probably need to use some washers on top post also as I'm still getting that harsh dry hit like when you have part of the coil going red. I'm not real sure what to do about the condensation. It is a lot. It will be fine if it drains down to the bottom and pools because the lowest spot is the wick hole. Hopefully I won't have as much condensation with the larger hole. Anyone else know how to deal with this?

My vapor production was lacking until the increase in the air hole. I only hope that drilling it out is not detrimental to the vacuum assist that the juice in the mesh gets when you have a more restricted airflow. I don't think that it will have any effect on it.

Edit: Hey Dan. Does drilling out the air hole void the warranty? :D
 
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Quigsworth

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