G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2

[Scubabatdan]

Hmm? I haven't used the T-tank top, yet. I was referring to the drip tip I'm using on top ;-) The lower portion of that drip tip (below the o-ring) protrudes more than most and hits the top of the juice tank if fully inserted. That's not a problem with the GTUS, I just mentioned it in case somebody else runs into a similar problem since it was a simple fix

Ahhhh Ok blond moment over LOL
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

The larger o-ring is just an alternative for those having trouble with the smaller one, I think. He gave us two sizes so we could use whichever worked best

Correct!
Dan

 

[rob5482]

Just a quick note, got my package the other day whoo hoo. Now I have to find some time to put it together. TY very very much dan for putting this together and hanging in there thru all the mishaps. You have my vote for vaper of the year!!!!

 

[anorth_uk]

I have to say I'm not happy with Dan, he's done such a good job none have appeared on the classifieds yet

 

[docabramson]

I built mine lastnight. It felt like the first time you build a computer and are not sure it it will POST. Everything worked as expected. I put on the Tank and gave it a toot.

First Attempt: very harsh / low vapor
Opened it back up checked everything and saw the Wick moved
The bottom 2 coils were just suspended in mid air.

Second Attempt: harsh / low vapor / lots of taste
Moved some stuff around

Third Attempt: after wick rebuild: dry burnt painful vapor
Decided to reconfig and try the Drip Tank

Fourth Attempt Drip Tank: LOTS of Taste / Throat scorching vapor / Low vapor amount

More attempts after work tonight. Not sure what I am missing.

To many coils? have tried anywhere beween 3-6
Ohm to low? Wraps ended up around 1.8 and another was 2.3
Nichrome? Guess I can buy the other stuff
#400 SS Mesh?

Any Ideas?

~AA

 

[MikeE3]

Flooding my atty

Three things I can think of that would cause flooding, and things to check:

1. Excessivly loose wick, but you said you could not fit a bigger one in.

2. Air holes not completely open due to machining. Low air flow increase air pressure causing a higher neg air pressure on the tank causeing it to pump out more liquid.

3. Air leak at the tanks oring allowing juice to leak in.

Well this is all I can think of right now. if it has a hard draw, then you need to check all the air holes for blockage.
Hope this helps,
Dan

Sounds Like you may have just a bit too much slop in the wick...I don't want to give away too many of my little secrets ...but another thing I had in my GTUS tool box was a roll of plumbers teflon thread tape ($1.50 a roll at Lowe's/Home Depot)...for the guys that removed the bushings for a fatter wick and are having shorting issues or to tweak your wick to get that perfect size (allow air back into the tank...but not freely leak) take a piece of teflon tape and fold it in half (length wise) and start with one wrap on the wick where the mid section touches it and progressively add more till you nail it...plus it's a great insulator for shorting (lay a tiny piece in your base hole too), plus it's far enough from your coil so you'll not get any of that claimed heat caused teflon "off gassing"...just throwing it out there...

One more thing, and I know Dan does the pin thing but I could never get it to wick without flooding making a straw...my GTUS wicks where as solid as I could roll em' (with my over bored mid section hole I was running 45mm wicks) and they worked best that way, but as a nod to Dan...that was the GTUS I had, my new one maybe a total different creature

True, the hole is better for a capillary genisis, and solid for a gravity genisis, I guess I am lucky, just never had that problem using the pin hole wick.

Dan

Yep my flooding issue was a too small diameter wick. I could easily slide it up and down in the hole it passes through. Instead of rolling a new wick, I tried Quiqsworth's telfon trick to test that the wick was too small in diameter. I put two wraps of teflon (double over as suggested) around the wick just below where it would stick threw the top section of the bottom. It appears to have solve the flooding.

I think I'll try rolling my next wick w/o the pin inside and see if I get a better fit and 'wicking' as I'm still not getting the vapor production that I should. (But this may be a coil issue too)

 

[MikeE3]

Coil ohms not stable.

Here's another mystery to me. It happened on two coils and I've had the same results using 2 different ProVari's.

When I did an ohm check on a new coil (using a ProVari) it read 2.3 ohms. I was vaping on it for a little while maybe a dozen or so test vapes. Then I checked the ohms and it was 2.0. I vaped some more, checked and it was 1.8. A bit more vaping and it was down to 1.6 ohms.

I took the atty apart to look at the wick/coil to see if anything had moved, etc. None of the windings were touching and seemed evenly spaced (6 wraps). I pulse fired the coil to dry out the wick and 'light' up the coil. Each ring glowed although the middle section did look brighter than the outer rings of the coil. After dry firing the coil I checked the ohms and it was back up to 2.3ohms - huh?

Put it all back together, started vaping and again the ohms slowly dropped from 2.3 to 1.7ohms.

I was able to duplicate / repeat this on two different ProVari's, thinking maybe it was an issue with my ProVari. (I had the same thing happen w/ my 1st coil. It started at 1.8ohms and went down to 1.4ohms. But I didn't check if this one went back to 1.8, just tossed it).

So here I am again, asking - what's going on?

 

[Extol]

Still not green... o well. I know Dan has work very hard on this and I can wait.(I think). Grats to every one that's gone green!

 

[anorth_uk]

Coil ohms not stable.

Here's another mystery to me. It happened on two coils and I've had the same results using 2 different ProVari's.

When I did an ohm check on a new coil (using a ProVari) it read 2.3 ohms. I was vaping on it for a little while maybe a dozen or so test vapes. Then I checked the ohms and it was 2.0. I vaped some more, checked and it was 1.8. A bit more vaping and it was down to 1.6 ohms.

I took the atty apart to look at the wick/coil to see if anything had moved, etc. None of the windings were touching and seemed evenly spaced (6 wraps). I pulse fired the coil to dry out the wick and 'light' up the coil. Each ring glowed although the middle section did look brighter than the outer rings of the coil. After dry firing the coil I checked the ohms and it was back up to 2.3ohms - huh?

Put it all back together, started vaping and again the ohms slowly dropped from 2.3 to 1.7ohms.

I was able to duplicate / repeat this on two different ProVari's, thinking maybe it was an issue with my ProVari. (I had the same thing happen w/ my 1st coil. It started at 1.8ohms and went down to 1.4ohms. But I didn't check if this one went back to 1.8, just tossed it).

So here I am again, asking - what's going on?

Unstable resistance readings is normally from poorly oxidised wicks and/or coils too tightly wound around a wick and biting into the oxidation.

There seems to be a fine balance between coils wound too tight and too loose, too tight causes shorts, too loose and the coils burn out

 

[johnsom]

Does anybody who has recieved theres also have the original gtank and if so how do they stack up, i was hoping that with the gtus you could use a bigger wick and possibly have better wicking. I just recently drilled out the hole in the gtank i have and it seems to be wicking ALOT better. Anyway just anxiously awaiting shipment of mine and though id inquire

 

[Quigsworth]

It's pretty typical to see a genny coil become more resistant as it settles in (fresh 2.3 will go to 2.5+) but then stablize...if it drops that's a short...keep in mind that our coils move when being fired...it's a thermal expansion thing and if you have any mesh "fray" and your coil expands and comes in contact with it you may get a partial short, next time you fire it with that new resistance the coil may expand differently, either clearing the short or making it worse...yes, I've spent some considerable time thinking about and testing these ...Dan does a "fold over" on his mesh edge that will be on the outside of the wick (if that makes any sense, see his vids)...I personally only do the fold over when I make my SGV3 because of the "U" shape you need to make which tends to splay the wick roll when you bend it...but I should do it more, it's a good idea and one less thing to worry about especially if you're still new to the genny wick/coil thing...just remember, we were all new to this once, it can be frustrating but you will get it...and it's sooo worth it when you do.

 

[Scubabatdan]

I built mine lastnight. It felt like the first time you build a computer and are not sure it it will POST. Everything worked as expected. I put on the Tank and gave it a toot.

First Attempt: very harsh / low vapor
Opened it back up checked everything and saw the Wick moved
The bottom 2 coils were just suspended in mid air.

Second Attempt: harsh / low vapor / lots of taste
Moved some stuff around

Third Attempt: after wick rebuild: dry burnt painful vapor
Decided to reconfig and try the Drip Tank

Fourth Attempt Drip Tank: LOTS of Taste / Throat scorching vapor / Low vapor amount

More attempts after work tonight. Not sure what I am missing.

To many coils? have tried anywhere beween 3-6
Ohm to low? Wraps ended up around 1.8 and another was 2.3
Nichrome? Guess I can buy the other stuff
#400 SS Mesh?

Any Ideas?

~AA

If your coils are too loose they will super heat as they are not touching the wick well enough and burn the juice producing harsh hits. Need to check the tightness of your coil. If you can move/rotate your wick in the coil then your coil is to loose. Also to low of an ohm and to high of a volt will also result in a harsh vape.
Hope this helps.
Dan

 

[MikeE3]

Coil ohms not stable.

Unstable resistance readings is normally from poorly oxidised wicks and/or coils too tightly wound around a wick and biting into the oxidation.

There seems to be a fine balance between coils wound too tight and too loose, too tight causes shorts, too loose and the coils burn out

It's pretty typical to see a genny coil become more resistant as it settles in (fresh 2.3 will go to 2.5+) but then stablize...if it drops that's a short...keep in mind that our coils move when being fired...it's a thermal expansion thing and if you have any mesh "fray" and your coil expands and comes in contact with it you may get a partial short, next time you fire it with that new resistance the coil may expand differently, either clearing the short or making it worse...yes, I've spent some considerable time thinking about and testing these ...Dan does a "fold over" on his mesh edge that will be on the outside of the wick (if that makes any sense, see his vids)...I personally only do the fold over when I make my SGV3 because of the "U" shape you need to make which tends to splay the wick roll when you bend it...but I should do it more, it's a good idea and one less thing to worry about especially if you're still new to the genny wick/coil thing...just remember, we were all new to this once, it can be frustrating but you will get it...and it's sooo worth it when you do.

Good tips and info for the newbie, me

I re-used the same wick after oxidizing it again and put on a new coil. This one started at 2.0Ω before I started vaping with it. It was a bit unstable and dropped as low as 1.6, but now seems to be holding at 1.8Ω. This coil was loose on the wick (that is, it slid up and down easily, I didn't have the 'screw' it to move it along the wick) and I just tryed to snug it up when attaching to the +/- screws. I'm getting better. I know now that I had the previous one too tight, as I recall actually trying to make the winding real snug when doing it, to keep them from uncoiling before I had the ends screwed down.

It makes sense after reading that even if there is space between the coil wraps, if they are too close they could expand and touch another one. I'll take care on the spaceing. I think I'm good w/ respect to frayed ends. I use the 'fold-over' technique Dan shows in his vids.

I think it best with the info from you both, I start completely over with a new wick. At least each of my attempts is getting better - that's a good thing.

 

[docabramson]

Here is a picture of the current WICK and WRAP, when I get home I will bust out the good camera and post a better one.

The WRAP is tight, no glowing when fired

 

[Killjoy1]

Okay, got it vaping pretty good, now Found an o-ring (a spare for one of my carto tanks) and repositioning the air intake hole made all the difference on vapor production. Flavor is good, too

Now are there any tips on making the vape a little warmer (using the 3ml top, or 5ml top for that matter)? That's the only point that's still not quite perfect for my taste. Definitely not a deal-breaker for me, just a minor preference thing. I'll give the other setups (drip top and T tank) later in the week when I get a chance and maybe try a lower ohm coil, this one's metering at 2.1 ohms and I'm running it at 4.2 volts on the Darwin

 

[Quigsworth]

I've heard the vape warms up with the Ghost Recon set-up (not so much metal acting as a heat sink) but honestly for me, I just accepted the cool vape as a device characteristic and ended up reaching for it out of my arsenal a lot because of that...I like subtle fruit flavours and as an "out on the deck with a cocktail at the end of the day"...the GTUS just shines...am I close to going green Dan???

 

[Killjoy1]

Very true, I have a few mellow fruits and florals that I like to drip at low watts and I think this might be perfect for them. Right now I've got Gorilla Juice in there, so the lack of heat is very apparent to me. I did get in on Youssefa's co-op, so I'll have the clear tops to try out soon

 

[Quigsworth]

Yup, it was the GTUS that finally replaced dripping 3 ohm cisco 801's (which is a damn good light fruit atty, airy and cool but tons of vape)...I was actually seeking out a device that made a cool vape...the Sturm and the the Cyclone (brutal to get), the LV (I've heard things, not all good) but they're all cool which seemed like I said, characteristic of top tanks

 

[Scubabatdan]

I've heard the vape warms up with the Ghost Recon set-up (not so much metal acting as a heat sink) but honestly for me, I just accepted the cool vape as a device characteristic and ended up reaching for it out of my arsenal a lot because of that...I like subtle fruit flavours and as an "out on the deck with a cocktail at the end of the day"...the GTUS just shines...am I close to going green Dan???:p

You and about 40 other people that wanted PA + DT, got 43 assembled today, should go out Tuesday.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Does anybody who has recieved theres also have the original gtank and if so how do they stack up, i was hoping that with the gtus you could use a bigger wick and possibly have better wicking. I just recently drilled out the hole in the gtank i have and it seems to be wicking ALOT better. Anyway just anxiously awaiting shipment of mine and though id inquire

Yours shipped Saturday:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...p-support-thread-part-2-a-44.html#post6204240

Dan