BTW... How is it possible to use cotton at the coil and not have it just burn up when red hot burning of the coil?
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G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2
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Alright! Just found a 3ml tester in my old stuff! it had 36mg menthol that got me to buy menthol crystals... which brings up the question: does menthol etc get into a rebuildables just like other atties, or does it get out sooner?
Plugging around the wick? If I understand you correctly, then no. The condensation is formed from the vapor passing through, not from excess juice on the wick. If you're having leaking issues or it's over-wicking from your mesh being smaller than the hole, then yes you could do this. A couple people have mentioned using teflon tape wrapped around the wick for this
Any standard 3ml bottle should fit fine, all the ones I've seen have been the same size (either bought empty from Madvapes or from other vendors with juice in them)
The drip top is easy
You remove the upper section altogether (the one the juice tank goes onto) and screw the drip top directly onto the base. Your wick should be just long enough to just barely stick up into the bottom of your drip tip, so it's easy to drip right onto the wick. I wouldn't put an excessive amount of juice in there, though, you'll just get it leaking out the air intake hole. You could over-drip it if you wanted to, just keeping it in a position where that air hole is pointed upward both while you're vaping and when you set it down
Yes and no. Stubborn flavors can still hang out in your wicks and some of the nooks and crannies, but with a rebuildable you can more thoroughly wash all the parts and replace the wick and coil if necessary, so it's not nearly as big an issue as it is with standard attys. Even if you just swap flavors and vape through the old one, the flavor may not stick around as long in something like this because there are less parts that really hold onto that flavor.
http://www.fastener-express.com/0-80-x-12-socket-head-cap-screw-stainless-steel-qty-50.aspx
Before pulling the trigger on 50 of these I wanted to find out from the experts if these are the correct sizes?
Before pulling the trigger on 50 of these I wanted to find out from the experts if these are the correct sizes?
I don't reckon you need 50. Any chance you wanna share with the class? I'll pay shipping + $1 for about 6 of em!
Just ordered 50 (0-80 1/2" socket head) & (0-80 1/8" socket head) SS bolts from the link above. Hopefully they'll be perfect.
I certainly don't mind off loading a few, but I am ridiculously busy at the moment getting the next Medal of Honor ready to ship in Oct. After that, I get my 13 weeks sabbatical where time will not be an issue.
I'll let you know if they work well and we'll take it from there.
Cheers
I certainly don't mind off loading a few, but I am ridiculously busy at the moment getting the next Medal of Honor ready to ship in Oct. After that, I get my 13 weeks sabbatical where time will not be an issue.
I'll let you know if they work well and we'll take it from there.
Cheers
In the pic they don't seem to be threaded all the way to the head, that could be a problem on some contact posts.
Ah good point.
Just mailed them and got this:
Hello Leon,
The threads go all the way to the head it’s just stock picture.
Best Regards,
Amy Boehm
Fastener Express - Socket Head Cap Screws, Metric Screws , Fasteners and Anodized Aluminum for the Hobby Industry.
Just mailed them and got this:
Hello Leon,
The threads go all the way to the head it’s just stock picture.
Best Regards,
Amy Boehm
Fastener Express - Socket Head Cap Screws, Metric Screws , Fasteners and Anodized Aluminum for the Hobby Industry.
But I forgot about the little metal sleeve that goes on the positive post. Anybody got a few of those handy? Lol I still haven't tried drip mode, but I'm looking forward to it.
Dangit, the last 30 or so hours have not been the happiest...
Fried my ePower 18650 I am guessing because I used less coils (3/4) on the GTUS and did not think that there was not any protection on the ePower...
So I got 2 flashlight mods up and running again, but one uses an 18490 (only have 2 used batts) and the other (18650) I did not put a switch in and must use the clicky end cap switch to turn it off and on (never got around to making a switch like on the copper pipe mod with a rivet and spring)
So, I really have liked the solid performance of my ePower... I busted open a newer improved switch (that died right before 30 days-it would spark every time I changed the battery) and found another switch that was on a tiny board I had previously scavenged form a computer (I think) and soldered it all in and tested with an older panasonic cgr18650 cuz that was already charged from the five I have in everyday rotation and it worked well...the battery was a little low kind of quick since I kept hitting on my Resurrector, so I figure I'll just put an AW18650 in it so that it will be fully charged so that I can watch some TV (you know, Jerry Springer or something!) and as I am testing it beforehand it gets super hot in the ePower. The amps were so much higher that it burnt the little POS square 4 leg switch and had started burning through the sheath at the bottom of the battery. Thank God I test stuff, eh?
Oh yeah, the working on the ePower switch was right after I had outright zapped an older Riva ego 750 batt that I had been nursing along using here and there when needed (mostly left in the car). I had just put it on the GTUS with the B "tank", hit it once, so-so of a hit, hit it again, and zap...dead (and i know from the last one I had that the batt is good and something is fried on the lil board.
DANGIT! I guess it's finally spring cleaning for this vaper!
And time to get a reliable unit for the GTUS... while this was happening yesterday I had my eye on a LT VV V.1 for $29, but I was busy working on all this and today it was gone!
Fried my ePower 18650 I am guessing because I used less coils (3/4) on the GTUS and did not think that there was not any protection on the ePower...
So I got 2 flashlight mods up and running again, but one uses an 18490 (only have 2 used batts) and the other (18650) I did not put a switch in and must use the clicky end cap switch to turn it off and on (never got around to making a switch like on the copper pipe mod with a rivet and spring)
So, I really have liked the solid performance of my ePower... I busted open a newer improved switch (that died right before 30 days-it would spark every time I changed the battery) and found another switch that was on a tiny board I had previously scavenged form a computer (I think) and soldered it all in and tested with an older panasonic cgr18650 cuz that was already charged from the five I have in everyday rotation and it worked well...the battery was a little low kind of quick since I kept hitting on my Resurrector, so I figure I'll just put an AW18650 in it so that it will be fully charged so that I can watch some TV (you know, Jerry Springer or something!) and as I am testing it beforehand it gets super hot in the ePower. The amps were so much higher that it burnt the little POS square 4 leg switch and had started burning through the sheath at the bottom of the battery. Thank God I test stuff, eh?
Oh yeah, the working on the ePower switch was right after I had outright zapped an older Riva ego 750 batt that I had been nursing along using here and there when needed (mostly left in the car). I had just put it on the GTUS with the B "tank", hit it once, so-so of a hit, hit it again, and zap...dead (and i know from the last one I had that the batt is good and something is fried on the lil board.
DANGIT! I guess it's finally spring cleaning for this vaper!
And time to get a reliable unit for the GTUS... while this was happening yesterday I had my eye on a LT VV V.1 for $29, but I was busy working on all this and today it was gone!
Last night I also tried to put two ePower tubes together since I don't have 18350's and I figured I'd try the GTUS at 5V. I heat shrink tubed them together, baked in the oven and finally tried it. The switch came in at 5.76V. The lower battery at the spring was getting real hot at the top (positive) when I used it with the GTUS with the 3ml tank on it and 6/7 coil wraps, so that's a no-go too
Last night I also tried to put two ePower tubes together since I don't have 18350's and I figured I'd try the GTUS at 5V. I heat shrink tubed them together, baked in the oven and finally tried it. The switch came in at 5.76V. The lower battery at the spring was getting real hot at the top (positive) when I used it with the GTUS with the 3ml tank on it and 6/7 coil wraps, so that's a no-go too
Sorry to hear that, Yeah you have to be careful with any genisis style atty, some of the PV's can not handle them. If you get a short on the wick and go into a low ohm state 1ohms or less it will fry the electronics if it does not have a cut off like provari etc...
Dan
I don't have any kicking around, but here's the mcmaster info:
Spacer SS 3/16" - McMaster - 92321A007
If you have a local McMaster, Grainger or Fastenal I'm sure they could get you a few. Ordering from McMaster can be pricey on the shipping for only a couple small parts
Wow that was fast, they arrived today. They look so dinky! But with an allen key, you get a nice bite on the head.
I'll try them on my other GTUS tonight!
I'll try them on my other GTUS tonight!
Is this what I saw as "the 2cent mod" or "2cent safety mod" does?
Are you talking about the fuse disc, for over amp draw?
The Fuse, Vape Safe, 2 cents. Practicing safe vaping | Guide To Vaping
Yes also called the 2 cent mod.
Dan
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