Not a chance you dirty stinkin' Canuck, I'll see you in court
Damn, cross-border trade dispute...we lose those every time
...G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2
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Damn, cross-border trade dispute...we lose those every time
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Then I propose a truce. You drag on your GTUS and I'll drag on mine, and we proclaim peace on the exhale . . . no need to get the lawyers involved unless they need a good vape, too
Hey, check out my new GTUS mod
View attachment 125943View attachment 125944
That is AWESOME!I lack the tools and skill required for this,If I could,my unused RSM would see daylight for the first time in a while
Nice work Quigsworth
just what do you need to drill out the nipple? i tried but just burnt the bit 3/32. used a dremmel at low speed, but no oil, was that my problem? i would like to use a thicker wick and i never use the ego carts anyway
You could have used a wood drill bit not made for metal, and that will burn. Go to lowes or HD and pick up a cobalt 3/32 drill bit, that will get through it with out burning up
Dan
I tend to get those as well. Blisters are just part of the Genisis lifestyle right? Lol.
I opened it up with a dremel, but I started with smaller bits and worked up I think, and lubricated with VG again and again and again. I also worked from low speed to short bursts of high speed. I'm a mechanical ....., if I can do it you can def do it!
I used vg for lube also... you can use ammonia to cut through it like butter even with a wood bit. At least it works on regular steel. Learnt that trick years ago trying to get king pins out of an old pickup. Drilled over 6" in under 10 min with a standard electric drill.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 2
Ok, I know you guys have been through this millions of times but Im new here and cant seem to get it done. I have not read this whole thread but Ive been watching the few vids I can find.
First question:
1. Is the paper in the scubabatdan vid necessary? He uses it under the coil, is that more for storage purposes or an integral part of this?
My problem. I am using 400 mesh folded on two edges with 32g a-1 kanthal. When I put the mesh in the divit at the bottom I get an E1 on my provari. If I lift it out of the divit it fires and makes tons of vapor. Also, if the mesh touches the t-cap when Im putting it through the hole it goes to E1. I got the mesh to fit through the hole pretty good and I can twist the t-cap down without twisting it all up in there but I just get the E1 error.
I hope that made any sense. Oh ya, I did the torch on the paperclip and liquid burn off 3-4 times.
First question:
1. Is the paper in the scubabatdan vid necessary? He uses it under the coil, is that more for storage purposes or an integral part of this?
My problem. I am using 400 mesh folded on two edges with 32g a-1 kanthal. When I put the mesh in the divit at the bottom I get an E1 on my provari. If I lift it out of the divit it fires and makes tons of vapor. Also, if the mesh touches the t-cap when Im putting it through the hole it goes to E1. I got the mesh to fit through the hole pretty good and I can twist the t-cap down without twisting it all up in there but I just get the E1 error.
I hope that made any sense. Oh ya, I did the torch on the paperclip and liquid burn off 3-4 times.
Dont make things hard for yourself
leave the provari alone and try the Tank on a non VV mod and see how you get on
leave the provari alone and try the Tank on a non VV mod and see how you get on
The paper trick is so that you can see that you have made a coil that has correct spacing... at least that is my take on it...
I use the same lit magnifying helping hands with soldering iron holder (Harbor Freight Tools) that Dan has in the videos and I was able to see a couple of stray strands at the base even with the fold...it's all in how it is rolled. I put some of the same glue for the nylon screw into the center hole and I thought that one wick was shorting there so I also put the nylon sleeve where it goes and let the base of the wick stand on it and it still would not work but there was another issue altogether (and the wick was not stable)...
Really fire that base of the wick after ensuring that there are no strands sticking out... Open it up a bit at the base, shove any strays back in, refold that edge, and roll tightly again.
I use the same lit magnifying helping hands with soldering iron holder (Harbor Freight Tools) that Dan has in the videos and I was able to see a couple of stray strands at the base even with the fold...it's all in how it is rolled. I put some of the same glue for the nylon screw into the center hole and I thought that one wick was shorting there so I also put the nylon sleeve where it goes and let the base of the wick stand on it and it still would not work but there was another issue altogether (and the wick was not stable)...
Really fire that base of the wick after ensuring that there are no strands sticking out... Open it up a bit at the base, shove any strays back in, refold that edge, and roll tightly again.
The paper is not necessary, but it does help to ensure you don't get any shorts. Your Provari is giving you errors because your coil is shorting against the mesh somewhere, so just try doing a couple more torches on the mesh to ensure it's properly oxidized. I find it helps also to do another juice burn (where you drip juice on the wick and light with a regular lighter and let burn off) after wrapping the coil, dirtying it up this little bit has made a difference in my experience
When I first checked out the whole SS mesh thing, it gave me absolute fits trying to get a good wick and coil set up. Eventually I did get the hang of it and it's fairly easy for me now, but getting to that point was frustrating. Just stick with it, keep trying, walk away from it for a couple of days if you're really getting frustrated and come back to it with a clear head
When I first checked out the whole SS mesh thing, it gave me absolute fits trying to get a good wick and coil set up. Eventually I did get the hang of it and it's fairly easy for me now, but getting to that point was frustrating. Just stick with it, keep trying, walk away from it for a couple of days if you're really getting frustrated and come back to it with a clear head
It sure sounds like your coil is not oxidized well and is shorting at both the base and in the top nipple hole.
The paper is not necessary. It's an extra aide to make sure there's a carbon layer between the coil and the wick to help eliminate shorts. After wrapping the coil, burn the paper with a lighter 'till its just a layer of carbon.
When torching the coil, run the flame up and down the coil until it's glowing red. rotate the coil while heating it. Then quench it in water. Pay particular attention to the ends. I have the wick extending over the end of the paper clip, and point the torch directly into the end to make sure it get heated well before quenching. I make sure I do this to both ends. You really have to get the coil glowing before quenching in water. It won't stay red it's entire length put as you move the torch up and down the wick you should see it glowing under the flame. Dry the wick, then repeat the process.
I've also heated the coil to 'glowing' and just add a drop or 2 of VG to it to quench it, not just adding VG to the coil and burning it off with a lighter flame. 3 cycles of heating/quenching in water and 3 cycles of heating and quenching with drops of VG really gets a coil oxidized to avoid any shorts.
I'd use caution about using a 'suspect' wick/coil in a tube mode with out electronic 'short protection'. If it's shorting in the ProVari and you put it in a basic tube mod you could over drain the batteries and heat them up. You don't want to be doing that.
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Ask me how I know! I just killed some old units and my 18650 ePower (primary vaping unit)! Luckily I have 2 flashlight mods I made and a basic pass-through to get me through til I can get a VV unit.
BTW-it turns out that the coil that blew things was only 1.7 ohms...doesn't make sense to me... so it must have been shorted too... maybe at the nipple... I am going to try 35mm H x 30mm L on my next one to see if it will still be thick enough to stay close to the nipple walls to not allow flooding, and I guess just to be safe 4/5 coils instead of 3/4!
Ok, first off, thanks to Led, Killjoy and Mike for taking the time to try to help. My problem is that I thought I was doing all those things (aside from the extra oxidizing Mike mentions). I am admittedly getting frustrated, especially since I have a toddler and limited time (while he's napping mainly) to get this done. Gonna have to step a way for a bit. Ill just vape my Pene, it works great and even I can make a coil for that lol.
Oh, I just got this in the classies. I noticed it has both a flat head screw (taller side) and a phillips (flat bottom side). Thought that was odd. I dont see anything made of nylon anywhere either.
Ethan
Oh, I just got this in the classies. I noticed it has both a flat head screw (taller side) and a phillips (flat bottom side). Thought that was odd. I dont see anything made of nylon anywhere either.
Ethan
I raged nightly with my GTUS after I got it. Still to this day it is impossible for me to roll a wick 35x35 and get it through that hole. Eventually I went to Lowes n got a Dremel bit to make it bigger. Works really well now.
On a scale of 1-5 for easy friendly coil setup the GTUS is a 4. Once you get it, it works great
Hang in there, bump the coils around and make sure the top n bottom are well oxidized
Btw I saw the pic of your Epipe with the GTUS on it. Looked amazing!! At least I think it was yours
Sent from my Epic using Tapatalk
On a scale of 1-5 for easy friendly coil setup the GTUS is a 4. Once you get it, it works great
Hang in there, bump the coils around and make sure the top n bottom are well oxidized
Btw I saw the pic of your Epipe with the GTUS on it. Looked amazing!! At least I think it was yours
Sent from my Epic using Tapatalk
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Some folks have buggered up the original screws, wouldn't be surprised the original owner replaced one of the screws. Originally there was a nylon bushing that went into the nipple hole. It required even a thinner wick to fit through it. It was there to help prevent shorts. Early users (Dan himself) found it wasn't needed if you oxidized the wick really well.
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