G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2
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Mine doesn't leak at all...if you grab a 1/8" (3.175mm) drill you'll find it fits nicely into the wick well on the base (insert removed), you'll also find that same bit fits nicely into the cap hole of a type B...I just thought, why wouldn't you make the hole in the mid section the same?, what do you need the spike for?...let me make this clear, I'm not disrespecting Dan's design in the slightest, in fact I think the GTUS is probably one of the finest devices I own, but I've drilled out 2 of them now and haven't looked back...a 35mm x 35mm wick, rolled just tight enough to be a "little" sloppy in the mid hole (which will then slide perfectly into a type B tank hard cap, if your's is silicon, ream it a bit)...I've never had a dry hit on mine, it just works, perfectly...I'm not saying anyone "has" to do this to get the GTUS to perform...it's only what I've done (twice)
Quigs:
Does cheese cloth work on the GTUS? I just was watching your vid for the Penelope and it seems the way to go...I was thinking of using a small piece of 400 under the coil to protect from burning if I do let it go dry...
If you have indeed done it successfully, what thread count did you come up with?
Thanks!
Does cheese cloth work on the GTUS? I just was watching your vid for the Penelope and it seems the way to go...I was thinking of using a small piece of 400 under the coil to protect from burning if I do let it go dry...
If you have indeed done it successfully, what thread count did you come up with?
Thanks!
, I do just the opposite Led, I lay cotton on top of the mesh when I build a hybrid wick...as long as it's wet, cotton will never burn, at least it hasn't for me and I use cotton a ton...Here's a vid of how I use cotton (cheese cloth) in a GTUS...
...this first vid is how I've been making these hybrid wicks, although I'm wrapping a wick for my Line, same thing...
SS Mesh/Cotton hybrid wick - YouTube
...an alt. method for laying cotton on a wick, the Bluegrasslover method...
Mesh/Cotton hybrid wick Bluegrasslover's method - YouTube
...and here's my GTUS build using the Bluegrass hybrid...it's a little dated now, I've stopped using the Bluegrass method, although easier, short lifespan, I use the thread method...also, I have used the type "B" tank a number of times now and it works perfect and currently I don't use the pos screw as a screw any more, I cut off the head, removed the spacer, bent it in toward the wick and now use it as a post like you would in a Line...no coil tail glow...
GTUS build with Mesh/Cotton hybrid wick - YouTube
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Quigs:
When using it like you do in the first vid, with the coil directly on the cotton, is it an as-soon-as-you-taste-it-it's-toasted scenario, or do you have a little leeway, say 1 or 2 hits? I prefer to not even turn the B tank upside down since a bit stays in the tip (and on the A tanks [Bulli copy] it will leak out just a bit as i hit).
Also...I only have soft cap B tanks...so those will not work for me if I drill the nipple out?
When using it like you do in the first vid, with the coil directly on the cotton, is it an as-soon-as-you-taste-it-it's-toasted scenario, or do you have a little leeway, say 1 or 2 hits? I prefer to not even turn the B tank upside down since a bit stays in the tip (and on the A tanks [Bulli copy] it will leak out just a bit as i hit).
Also...I only have soft cap B tanks...so those will not work for me if I drill the nipple out?
No, the cotton is pretty forgiving...I've sucked my tanks dry a number of times (knew I should have got that re-con set-up
)...with the cotton you'll get a diminishing vape...then nothing with a bit of a woody taste on the exhale...time to fill the tank...by the time you screw it all back together you're ready to vape...I'm not going to say a hybrid wick will last as long as a straight mesh wick (maybe 4-5 days solid vaping)...I just do it because you can simply throw away the "so your genesis/GTUS is shorting" handbook, plus, I like the warmer, mellower taste off cotton (for most of my juices)btw, I think Asdaq mentioned you can ream the silicon caps to take the wick...I personally can't attest to this as my caps are the old school hard plastic ones but it make sense that you could.
On the "Wick materials. Safe vs dangerous. thread" (I read around 65 through 70ish) 500 mesh was discussed as having much better wicking qualities that are quick enough for chain vaping... wondering if I should keep the nipple and just get some 500! Did you receive and try it?
This coil I have is running at 1.8ohm, 400 mesh, 32 kanthal, approx 75pg/25vg and skipping around between 18ish to 24ish mg. I initially put toothpicks in 2 inner holes and was putting scotch tape on 1/2 the outer hole since it hit too easy... finally took off the tape and tooth picks and am using somewhat long slow draws and with a fresh 4.18V get a pretty decent amount...but it is super mellow, not a lot of throat hit, better when it gets warmed up though, but still a bit light on the flavor.
The last cartos I was using was the 1.7 single coil Ressurectors...nice big hit, nice and warm, what I thought was great flavor(until i changed out the wick and coil and found out that you really can get a lot more out of the flavor from a phoenix clone!)
I just got reminded that some issues would probably just go away if I were to finally get a VV device!!!! With my current set up, what is the highest volts that I could really go to with LR1.5-1.9? 4.8V? I am using 2 AW IMR 1600's and 14 Panasonic CG18650C's that I think are also 1600 on 2 of my old flashlight mods (unregulated) and am figuring that I will just make my own VV device (still searching for a decent first regulator= LM2596 and OKR-T/6-W12-C is where I am at now... and I know that there are a ton out there but at this point don't have the hours to really search in depth)
Dang, just twisted the GTUS too far on a flashlight mod and I think that I pulled the positive off again (stopped over-gluing mods early on after needing to still get in there to rework them) so I went to put it on my old XL pass-through and it is always on since a few hours ago when I tried it with the GTUS and the led was staying on at the end of that long hit...now no light at the button, but I do get the red one at the mini-usb connection while charging... and I was so happy to still have this since if anything was shorting, it would just start flashing, so after I took off whatever carto or such I could just put it back on and it would be good again...guess I need to find out what the ohms go to when in actual use...
This coil I have is running at 1.8ohm, 400 mesh, 32 kanthal, approx 75pg/25vg and skipping around between 18ish to 24ish mg. I initially put toothpicks in 2 inner holes and was putting scotch tape on 1/2 the outer hole since it hit too easy... finally took off the tape and tooth picks and am using somewhat long slow draws and with a fresh 4.18V get a pretty decent amount...but it is super mellow, not a lot of throat hit, better when it gets warmed up though, but still a bit light on the flavor.
The last cartos I was using was the 1.7 single coil Ressurectors...nice big hit, nice and warm, what I thought was great flavor(until i changed out the wick and coil and found out that you really can get a lot more out of the flavor from a phoenix clone!)
I just got reminded that some issues would probably just go away if I were to finally get a VV device!!!! With my current set up, what is the highest volts that I could really go to with LR1.5-1.9? 4.8V? I am using 2 AW IMR 1600's and 14 Panasonic CG18650C's that I think are also 1600 on 2 of my old flashlight mods (unregulated) and am figuring that I will just make my own VV device (still searching for a decent first regulator= LM2596 and OKR-T/6-W12-C is where I am at now... and I know that there are a ton out there but at this point don't have the hours to really search in depth)
Dang, just twisted the GTUS too far on a flashlight mod and I think that I pulled the positive off again (stopped over-gluing mods early on after needing to still get in there to rework them) so I went to put it on my old XL pass-through and it is always on since a few hours ago when I tried it with the GTUS and the led was staying on at the end of that long hit...now no light at the button, but I do get the red one at the mini-usb connection while charging... and I was so happy to still have this since if anything was shorting, it would just start flashing, so after I took off whatever carto or such I could just put it back on and it would be good again...guess I need to find out what the ohms go to when in actual use...
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Got my perfect build on Monday:
drilled out the the "nipple" in the top wick hole with 1/8 bit Quigs-style, hand rolled a 400 35mm x 20mm wick and prepped with the Blugrasslover cotton style, pulled both stock PTFE inserts and cut some thin-wall PTFE tube for the base wick hole and the top wick hole and wrapped the coil nice and tight on the wick.
results:
100% no shorts, at all.......I mean period I'm using 34g nichrome 80
perfect wicking, no flooding at all, only gurgle is when condensation builds up in the top cap (takes seconds to clear it)
taste is perfect
I was a lil worried about the vapor until the coil started to break in after the first day and now it's super clouds....
never a dry hit....ever
And to be clear, I am a chain vaping s.o.b. and it is flawless thus far. I have been using this setup every waking hour since Monday morning and as of right now there are no signs of this thing letting up. Fresh coil was right at 2.8ohms and has creeped to about 3.3ohms and is solid as a rock. point is, with the cotton prep and PTFE thin wall inserts I am able to run a no-shorting easily repeatable and stable setup every time.
I'll post some more pics once I need to take her down for a new coil, at this rate it looks like that might be awhile tho
drilled out the the "nipple" in the top wick hole with 1/8 bit Quigs-style, hand rolled a 400 35mm x 20mm wick and prepped with the Blugrasslover cotton style, pulled both stock PTFE inserts and cut some thin-wall PTFE tube for the base wick hole and the top wick hole and wrapped the coil nice and tight on the wick.
results:
100% no shorts, at all.......I mean period I'm using 34g nichrome 80
perfect wicking, no flooding at all, only gurgle is when condensation builds up in the top cap (takes seconds to clear it)
taste is perfect
I was a lil worried about the vapor until the coil started to break in after the first day and now it's super clouds....
never a dry hit....ever
And to be clear, I am a chain vaping s.o.b. and it is flawless thus far. I have been using this setup every waking hour since Monday morning and as of right now there are no signs of this thing letting up. Fresh coil was right at 2.8ohms and has creeped to about 3.3ohms and is solid as a rock. point is, with the cotton prep and PTFE thin wall inserts I am able to run a no-shorting easily repeatable and stable setup every time.
I'll post some more pics once I need to take her down for a new coil, at this rate it looks like that might be awhile tho
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Decided to bling my baby up for her new ride...a 18350 Cube...also wrapped bamboo thread instead of cheese cloth thread on my hybrid wick this time...a little bulkier so I went with 30 Kanthal so I could get more wraps...nice set-up, vaping crazy
Decided to bling my baby up for her new ride...a 18350 Cube...also wrapped bamboo thread instead of cheese cloth thread on my hybrid wick this time...a little bulkier so I went with 30 Kanthal so I could get more wraps...nice set-up, vaping crazy
View attachment 132558
Looks good on the cube!
Dan
Decided to bling my baby up for her new ride...a 18350 Cube...also wrapped bamboo thread instead of cheese cloth thread on my hybrid wick this time...a little bulkier so I went with 30 Kanthal so I could get more wraps...nice set-up, vaping crazy
View attachment 132558
Dangit you guys..... That looks awesome, now I might have to do it to match my chrome Provari....
Got any suggestions for getting that awesome mirror polish?
sweet Cube BTW
Thanks guys ...polishing SS isn't that hard if you have a bench grinder at home...pick up a decent quality buffer wheel and some WR1 (white) compound and a bowl of water to keep it cool, give it a final shot with some Mothers Metal polish...the GTUS machining is pretty top notch, buffing to a mirror shine only took about an hour.
...polishing SS isn't that hard if you have a bench grinder at home...pick up a decent quality buffer wheel and some WR1 (white) compound and a bowl of water to keep it cool, give it a final shot with some Mothers Metal polish...the GTUS machining is pretty top notch, buffing to a mirror shine only took about an hour.
That is super nice looking dude! How long does that battery last you with the B tank? And what are they, Efests?
Not too long I'm afraid, but for a nice stealthy pub night mod...a full "b" tank and a fresh 18350 and you're good to go...strange, I stick my GTUS in my Cutlass and no one gives it a second look...the shiny GTUS on my Cube...every woman picks it up and wants to know what it is...and they accuse us of being phallic minded 
What eGo units are the eGo fitting supposed to work with? It does not work with my Riva battery, my ePower 18650, or my new Indulgence 18650 mod...it creates too much space for a proper connection.
You mean that little "beauty cone/plinth" thing? Those were pretty much a bust 'cos they weren't manufactured correctly, IIRC (hard to say if I remember right, it was quite a while back, now). I've been using mine as a stand when I need to set down a tank that's prone to leak if laid on its side, works well enough for that purpose
Can I use this effectively on an ePower type mod for the GTUS so that if the ohms are to low or if there is a short it will protect the board inside of the switch? I know that they burn very quickly when there is a problem!!!
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