G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2
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I've been using the ghost protocol set up for a couple of days. I was hoping the condensation build up would be less than with the SS tanks and covers, but it's not.
I probably need one of Dan's air powered assisted modules to blow all the vapor out before it can condense.
I probably need one of Dan's air powered assisted modules to blow all the vapor out before it can condense.
Only problem with this concept is that the juice would be in contact with the brass center pin and plate.
Dan
...you're right of course...I keep forgetting about the whole brass/juice thing...stupid verdigris...whoever said chemistry was fun?
Just got my G-tank US........Damn!!! And I thought SS wick and coils would be hard
Thanks to all who post great how to's and recommendations!!! first wick and coil was perfect with no shorts, perfect wicking and great flavor.....but I accidentally popped the coil. 2nd coil with same wick is near flawless and hitting better than ever expected!!! At this point I could not imagine a better design.......until Dan comes up with something else Thanks everbody!!!
Thanks to all who post great how to's and recommendations!!! first wick and coil was perfect with no shorts, perfect wicking and great flavor.....but I accidentally popped the coil. 2nd coil with same wick is near flawless and hitting better than ever expected!!! At this point I could not imagine a better design.......until Dan comes up with something else
Thanks everbody!!!
I never got around to trying my G-Tank-US with type B eGo tank cartridges. Well, I have some ordered and I'm wondering if I should cut my SS wick flush with the spiky protrusion on the middle piece? Currently, my wick extends a few millimeters beyond it and it's working fabulously. I'm thinking if I leave it as is and try to puncture the silicone on the tank cartridge that way, I'm going to monkey up my wick and coil.
What say you folks?
What say you folks?
I would remove the chamber top and trim the wick so it is flush with the top of the nipple, and use a toothpick or similar to get the shape back.
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HELP!! LoL Yes, I still dont have things working yet, but for those of you who might remember where I left off I have good news. I have built a wick that is not shorting out. It seems perfect. I used 32g kanthal. Now my problem is that it came out to 1.1 ohms and for some reason it isnt wicking. Well i dont think it is. It seems to produce a good amount of vapor but it tastes really horrible. Unvapable like it is. Im stoked I got it putting out vapor and not shorting out but do any of you have any ideas on how to get it to not taste horrid.
I cut the wick just above the nipple, like really really close, maybe too close? The paper clip still fits down the middle no problem so its got a nice tube to the bottom. Does it even matter if there is a tube through the wick to the bottom. The liquid doesnt actually go through the middle hole does it? Im noticing that the entire coil doesnt seem to glow red, just the part that extends from the wick to the top screw. It seems to heat the wick though as vapor pours off of it.
I did the red hot, light on fire, red hot, light on fire thing 6 times hoping it would do the trick.
Thanks in advance for any of you patient folks who are still willing to help me out.
I cut the wick just above the nipple, like really really close, maybe too close? The paper clip still fits down the middle no problem so its got a nice tube to the bottom. Does it even matter if there is a tube through the wick to the bottom. The liquid doesnt actually go through the middle hole does it? Im noticing that the entire coil doesnt seem to glow red, just the part that extends from the wick to the top screw. It seems to heat the wick though as vapor pours off of it.
I did the red hot, light on fire, red hot, light on fire thing 6 times hoping it would do the trick.
Thanks in advance for any of you patient folks who are still willing to help me out.
I know asdaq already responded, but an alternative would be to leave the wick jutting out a bit (so it enters the B tank) - but simply puncture the tank ahead of time. An awl, a nail, or any thin sharp point will do. That's the way I left mine, and it wicks great.
Dirq, 1.1 ohms is really low, I would add some wraps to spread the heat over a longer wire. This should help with the exposed leg from the post to the wick. If that part glows, then it is actually burning the juice which is why it tastes awful. It sounds like you are close though.
When all assembled you should be able to hold the button down for a reasonable lenght of time and see no glow through the air inlet. Also are you quenching with liquid between torchings? It may also not be oxidized fully and hence the low readings.
When all assembled you should be able to hold the button down for a reasonable lenght of time and see no glow through the air inlet. Also are you quenching with liquid between torchings? It may also not be oxidized fully and hence the low readings.
Ok, when I get home Im going to rewrap it with 36g kanthal and torch it a couple more times. Yes I am quenching it with liquid after each time I light it on fire.
Each time I have an issue I get a really good response such as yours that helps me understand things a bit better. I get a bright orange glow looking through the air inlet almost immediately. So off I go to try again lol. One of these days Im gonna have that "aha" moment.
Hey no worries, and you will get it. As for the wick shape and density, there are many opinions on how, but I think you are fine in that department. I would stick to 32G though, and go for closer wraps instead. The thinner wire will heat faster and the flying end will glow quicker and pop quicker. When you open it up you can troubleshoot a fresh coil by where it is black and where it is still silver.
I am just glad you are keeping at it. It shows you really want that good vape.
Ill never give up lol. Im stubborn like that. This one is special for my Wasp Mod.
I seriously dont know what is wrong with me though. I just wrapped a new one on the same wick using the 36g (before I checked to board saying not too) and went for many extra wraps and it came out to 6.2 ohm. So now if I could get somewhere in the middle Ill be good. Ill go back to the 32 and maybe 8 wraps?
I think my wick is done now however. Its losing its straightness from messing with it and the fact its cut so short its harder to get through and not let it twist tightening the cap. Unfortunately Im out of time for the night dealing with a 2 year old. Ill give it another shot or twelve over the weekend.
Thanks everyone for the help. Im not a complete lost cause, I vow to get this figured out.
I seriously dont know what is wrong with me though. I just wrapped a new one on the same wick using the 36g (before I checked to board saying not too) and went for many extra wraps and it came out to 6.2 ohm. So now if I could get somewhere in the middle Ill be good. Ill go back to the 32 and maybe 8 wraps?
I think my wick is done now however. Its losing its straightness from messing with it and the fact its cut so short its harder to get through and not let it twist tightening the cap. Unfortunately Im out of time for the night dealing with a 2 year old. Ill give it another shot or twelve over the weekend.
Thanks everyone for the help. Im not a complete lost cause, I vow to get this figured out.
The actions of adding wraps AND using thinner wire will both increase your resistance, so what you probably should have done is one or the other rather than both at once . . . though you probably already figgered that part ;-)
Going right to 8 wraps with the 32 might be overkill, the more wraps you've got the more opportunities it has to short against the wick. I'd probably try just adding one wrap at a time to find your optimal resistance. It sounds to me like your biggest problem anyway is that hot spot on that one leg of the coil and if you get that sorted out you may find the bulk of your taste problems will go away. Sometimes you can fiddle with your setup to eliminate that by leaning your wick just a tad closer to that post and making sure the wire stretched between them is good and taut, not slack at all.
the pos screw on my gtus is very hard to screw and unscrew, any ideas on how to make it ez to screw and unscrew? it has become suck a pain that i dont use it much now and i really like it
Remove the screw and use a 16ga needle to "Lightly" ream the nylon screw out. Use the bevel edge of the needle like a xacto knife to trimm a little of the inside of the nylon. This will provide less material and friction when screwing the positive screw in and out.
Hope this helps,
Dan
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