G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2

[Killjoy1]

Now that's going the full mile, Dan With all that's gone on in the course of this co-op, a lesser man would leave it to the end users to fix or have fixed any further issues, nice to see you are sticking it out to the bitter end

I test fit everything the day it arrived and everything is in good order on my end. Thanks again for all you've done in this venture!

 

[jamesd1628]

I've seen posts on this earlier, but just wanted to mention it again. On mine (the latest one I received a few days ago, not from the original 20 sent out a few months ago), the 3ml top initially would not screw all the way down. After working with it for a few minutes, with a little screw-unscrew action (and putting a little vg on the threads), I managed to get it to go all the way on. Now it's as smooth as butter. My point, I suppose, is that some of the minor issues can probably be worked out without having to get Dan involved.

 

[asdaq]

Got mine going and I'm quite pleased, my small o-ring works fine with no creep on either tank, got the spike ground down to get more efficiency and my air inlet lines up nice as is. I'm most surprised that the airflow is just how I like it and I had to stop myself from drilling out the inlet from the get go and see how stock would be. My only problem was the PTFE spacer wouldn't go in the upper hole nicely so I replaced it with a pen tube. I was worried about the threading going all the way up the cap, but the holes are nicely right at the bottom so draining back down looks to be quite efficient.

Also it seems this doesn't need a drag to warm up, not sure what the difference is there.

Vapes great!

 

[Youssefa]

Let the stalking begin.


BTW what # washer do I need for between tank and top

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

 

[chuckie]

Does anyone know if the cutting whee on the dremel is strong enough to cut the spike on the top piece down?Or do I need something else.

 

[Killjoy1]

BTW what # washer do I need for between tank and top

You mean the wave washers Quigs suggested to keep the tank from pushing up? I'm not sure on a number, but just a 1/2 inch wave washer should do. I snagged a couple from work just in case, but haven't had any problems with tank creep so far

 

[Mindfield]

Woohoo! My GTUS arrived today! Haven't had time to set it up yet but I hope to find some time tonight to do so.

 

[Katfeesh]

Got mine all set up today.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Let the stalking begin.


BTW what # washer do I need for between tank and top

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

Get one here, 16 cents:
http://www.amazon.com/510-490-dia-H...1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1338509315&sr=8-3-fkmr0

Does anyone know if the cutting whee on the dremel is strong enough to cut the spike on the top piece down?Or do I need something else.

A dremel with a cutoff wheel will work.
Dan

 

[SAX]

OH DAN, I was out, came back and found me in th GREEN Thank you so Much!!!

Update:

Ok this is now the current list, I have 46 more boxes to go... whew, will be doing more assembly and boxing tonight!

Dan

 

[SAX]

OH no.... wrong line I need glasses

OH DAN, I was out, came back and found me in th GREEN Thank you so Much!!!

 

[perlionsmitnick]

Just loaded up the G Tank with a cottonball wick and 32 ga kanthal with the increased sized airhole and this thing rocks.

Clouds

 

[urquidezj]

Pics or it didn't happen lol

 

[Quigsworth]

Kinda curious myself...how are you keeping the wick standing up in the tank?...but then again do you even need any wick in the tank? with the way cotton wicks maybe you only really need a little stub of cotton sticking up?

Ya, what urquidezj said...pics!

 

[perlionsmitnick]

Kinda curious myself...how are you keeping the wick standing up in the tank?...but then again do you even need any wick in the tank? with the way cotton wicks maybe you only really need a little stub of cotton sticking up?

Ya, what urquidezj said...pics!

OK No pics now. Ot's already built. lol

What I did was take a cottonball and stretch it out and roll up to 1/8 " . Took a needle and wrapped the coil within 1/4 " from the end. Again roll to tighten the 1/4 sticking out of the end and tuck this into the wick hole. Carefully attach the coil then simply thread the long 2" tail through the mid section. I had already drilled out the mid section hole to 1/8 or so (got rid of the T tank piercer. I also drilled out the single airhole to a slightly larger diameter.

I just left the extra cotton sticking into the 3 ml tank. Kinda like ScubaDan old pill fob attys.

I'll get pics after next teardowm.

 

[Quigsworth]

That's what I was kinda thinking...so if the tank was clear you'd see this limp gob of cotton laying about where it comes out of the mid section hole...and it works?...probably pretty well I imagine...both you and Bluegrass have done this now...props to both of you!

I think there should make a vid made on this method and posted. There's a lot of GTUS's hitting mailboxes and this may be a very viable option for peeps that reach their frustration limits with mesh oxidization and shorting but still want to enjoy their re-buildable atty of notable quality. After all of Dan's hard work he deserves "everyone" enjoy the fruits of his labour.

 

[ainako]

I'm not getting very good performance in mine, coil is set at 1.7 ohms. Flavor is good, but vapor and throat hit isn't. I have a 2.0 ohm in my GenLV and it performs much better

 

[goat29]

I'm not getting very good performance in mine, coil is set at 1.7 ohms. Flavor is good, but vapor and throat hit isn't. I have a 2.0 ohm in my GenLV and it performs much better

sounds like there may be a air flow problem, take a needle and make sure all 5 air holes dont have metal pieces blocking them. then make sure the air holes on nipple piece are set to where the screws holding the kental wire are not blocking them, you may have to loosen the nipple piece to get the holes to line up right, that is where a oring comes in handy

 

[ainako]

airholes are clear, I am noticing the coil takes a significant amount of time to "light up" then on my GenLV

 

[Scubabatdan]

I'm not getting very good performance in mine, coil is set at 1.7 ohms. Flavor is good, but vapor and throat hit isn't. I have a 2.0 ohm in my GenLV and it performs much better

airholes are clear, I am noticing the coil takes a significant amount of time to "light up" then on my GenLV

Sounds like a flooding issue, low vapor without TH is usally a sign of a overly wet coil. Low vapor with masive TH is a sign of a dry wick or short. Does the wick go in the hole loose or is it "snug" little force to get it in? Does the coil light up evenly during a dry burn? If it is slow in this case you might try loosening and retighting the screws, connection problem.
Dan