G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2

[Vtwin]

Good morning all!

When you setup for the T-tank, how much SS wick do you have sticking out above the piercing nipple?

Appreciate the help!

Steve

 

[Killjoy1]

I've only got a couple mm sticking up. The piercing nipple is about the same length as the thickness of the silicone caps, so it doesn't need much

 

[Mindfield]

Quick question: I realized last night that I don't have an appropriate glue to assemble the bottom bit, so I'm picking some up tonight. Is something like crazy glue or a similar cyanoacrylate acceptable or should I get some epoxy or Gorillia glue?

 

[ED-209]

From original co-op thread:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nk-us-co-op-support-thread-6.html#post4420452

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nk-us-co-op-support-thread-7.html#post4421606

Below site has a lot of great info as well and this is where I got the reference to the above links, hope this helps:

FAQ (First Edition) | G-Tank-US

 

[MikeE3]

Dan, a few pages back you teased me about changing my signature pic. So noted and done now that I have it working. This is my first rebuildable and it took me 4 wicks and 5 coils - but I've got it working well enough to understand the praise it deserves. It hasn't replaced my venerable io6 atty yet as my 'go to' - but I sure can see that happening as I learn to set it up better. I'm running it with the 35mmx35mm wick at 1.8Ω and getting decent vapor, 'though the vape is so clean tasting, it still lacks the fabled flavor talked about when use this style atty.

O-rings: someone asked about O-rings for the atty (not the wave washer). I found Danco #41's work well (9/16"OD x 7/16"ID x 1/6")

 

[kazz63758]

Sounds like a flooding issue, low vapor without TH is usally a sign of a overly wet coil. Low vapor with masive TH is a sign of a dry wick or short. Does the wick go in the hole loose or is it "snug" little force to get it in? Does the coil light up evenly during a dry burn? If it is slow in this case you might try loosening and retighting the screws, connection problem.
Dan

Which is optimum? I've been following the thread since it started and evidently some things slipped past me. I made my first coil of 35X35mm 400 mesh. I had to roll it solid without a pin in the center to get it to fit. It is VERY snug, but seems to fire correctly. I'm not too worried abut the size since it was my first coil and I assume I will improve with practice. But for future reference, what is the perfect fit?

Also, one other issue. My setup worked fine for about a ml, then flooded. I was using the T-top at the time, and thought it was probably an ego tank issue. Been away for a couple of days and haven't gotten time to fiddle with it, but plan to do so today. Is there anything with the snugness that might let it work for a while, then flood?

 

[Mudflap]

You guys that can roll a 35mm x 35mm wick tight enough to fit thru the hole in the middle piece have some kind of magic skill I don't possess.

I even got some straight pins like the ones Dan showed in his picture. They're corsage pins at Hobby Lobby, btw.

I finally had to use a 30mm x 20mm piece to make it work for me. Am I missing out on some performance by using less mesh to fashion a wick?

The air hole seems to line up perfectly between the two posts when screwed on tight, but I suppose I could turn it a few degrees left or right to see if that helps increase vapor and flavor.

Don't get me wrong, it's a good vape, but I'm not seeing what all the genesis atty hub-bub is all about yet. I'm operating under the assumption that my n00bishness is getting in the way of that.

 

[Killjoy1]

Not magic, just practice ;-) I had to roll it solid to get it to fit, though, no pin involved. If you are using the PTFE insulators then a 35mm wick won't fit no matter how tight you roll it, a wick that size is for when you don't have those insulators. I think my current wick was about 30mm or so before I rolled it and is a slightly loose fit in the upper hole, but seems to be the sweet spot in size for my 100% VG juices, I had a little bit of flooding with a much thinner juice, but not too bad

 

[bluegrasslover]

OK No pics now. Ot's already built. lol

What I did was take a cottonball and stretch it out and roll up to 1/8 " . Took a needle and wrapped the coil within 1/4 " from the end. Again roll to tighten the 1/4 sticking out of the end and tuck this into the wick hole. Carefully attach the coil then simply thread the long 2" tail through the mid section. I had already drilled out the mid section hole to 1/8 or so (got rid of the T tank piercer. I also drilled out the single airhole to a slightly larger diameter.

I just left the extra cotton sticking into the 3 ml tank. Kinda like ScubaDan old pill fob attys.

I'll get pics after next teardowm.

Mine started working really good once I made the part of the wick that goes into the tank small enough. It's surprisingly small in diameter when dry (2mm, probably less). Any thicker and it swells too much upon getting the juice on it and it doesn't wick good. I've had my best luck using gauze (the kind that looks like cheese cloth) and pulling it apart to create a wick by combining individual threads. Somehow it seems to work better than it's original cross hatch form.

I had a difficult time with cotton balls. One, it was hard for me to get a wick that was of a consistent size without lumps, etc. Then I think I rolled it too tight and it just wouldn't wick properly.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Quick question: I realized last night that I don't have an appropriate glue to assemble the bottom bit, so I'm picking some up tonight. Is something like crazy glue or a similar cyanoacrylate acceptable or should I get some epoxy or Gorillia glue?

Any 2 part epoxy will work that is notoxic when cured. I you use a super glue, only use it on the botttom4 threads and screw it in from the bottom so none is at the top where the juice will come in contact with it. I dont recommend super glue. I prefer the 2 part epoxy.
Dan

 

[ED-209]

Ok, anxiously waiting for mine that shipped a few days ago but had one question to add about the whole new\updated wick size and PTFE...

What happened or why are people now not using the PTFE? I know the mesh being fully oxidized prevents it from shorting thus not needing the PTFE but my main thought is without the PTFE, doesn't that mean using more mesh?

The original dimensions WITH PTFE were 20 mm x 35 mm, so a standard sheet of 12 x 12 would roughly yield 120 wicks. By increasing the dimensions to 35 mm x 35 mm that reduces to the number of wick being able to be created from the same size sheet to 64 roughly?

I know it's not much money, etc. but I just wanted to see if this change had more to do with flavor, performance, easier to roll proper size, etc. VS just not having to use the PTFE because the wick is oxidized?

Hope all that made sense and appreciate the info. If I can save a buck I will, not cheap but frugal LOL

 

[Scubabatdan]

Which is optimum? I've been following the thread since it started and evidently some things slipped past me. I made my first coil of 35X35mm 400 mesh. I had to roll it solid without a pin in the center to get it to fit. It is VERY snug, but seems to fire correctly. I'm not too worried abut the size since it was my first coil and I assume I will improve with practice. But for future reference, what is the perfect fit?

35mm x 35mm for non PFTE inserts, and 20mm X 35mm for PFTE inserts. Should be snug and not loose, but not tight
That help?

Also, one other issue. My setup worked fine for about a ml, then flooded. I was using the T-top at the time, and thought it was probably an ego tank issue. Been away for a couple of days and haven't gotten time to fiddle with it, but plan to do so today. Is there anything with the snugness that might let it work for a while, then flood?

Flooding with the T-Tops will happen if there is too much neg air pressure i.e. the 4 air holes are obstructed, the oring is blocking air flow, of the silicone cap is allowing air into the T-Tank. Also if you use the straw method and and the juice falls below the wick, air will be allowed into the tank faster causing a possible flodding situation.
Hope this helps.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok, anxiously waiting for mine that shipped a few days ago but had one question to add about the whole new\updated wick size and PTFE...

What happened or why are people now not using the PTFE? I know the mesh being fully oxidized prevents it from shorting thus not needing the PTFE but my main thought is without the PTFE, doesn't that mean using more mesh?

The original dimensions WITH PTFE were 20 mm x 35 mm, so a standard sheet of 12 x 12 would roughly yield 120 wicks. By increasing the dimensions to 35 mm x 35 mm that reduces to the number of wick being able to be created from the same size sheet to 64 roughly?

I know it's not much money, etc. but I just wanted to see if this change had more to do with flavor, performance, easier to roll proper size, etc. VS just not having to use the PTFE because the wick is oxidized?

Hope all that made sense and appreciate the info. If I can save a buck I will, not cheap but frugal LOL

Main reason is that the surface area of the wick is larger allowing fewer wraps to = the same ohms and the smaller diameter wick. Also for the chain vaper it delivers more juice, less dry hits.
Dan

 

[kazz63758]

35mm x 35mm for non PFTE inserts, and 20mm X 35mm for PFTE inserts. Should be snug and not loose, but not tight
That help?

Yes, I think it does. Mine is definitely too tight then. When I had the flooding and removed the top of the atomizer, the wick actually spun and pulled out of the coil rather than slipping back down through the top hole. I will have to work on that.

Flooding with the T-Tops will happen if there is too much neg air pressure i.e. the 4 air holes are obstructed, the oring is blocking air flow, of the silicone cap is allowing air into the T-Tank. Also if you use the straw method and and the juice falls below the wick, air will be allowed into the tank faster causing a possible flodding situation.
Hope this helps.
Dan

Ah! That solves that issue. I'm not sure what the straw method is, but my juice level did drop below the top of the wick. Guess I need to cut it shorter in the future.

Thanks!

 

[bluegrasslover]

Mine started working really good once I made the part of the wick that goes into the tank small enough. It's surprisingly small in diameter when dry (2mm, probably less). Any thicker and it swells too much upon getting the juice on it and it doesn't wick good. I've had my best luck using gauze (the kind that looks like cheese cloth) and pulling it apart to create a wick by combining individual threads. Somehow it seems to work better than it's original cross hatch form.

I had a difficult time with cotton balls. One, it was hard for me to get a wick that was of a consistent size without lumps, etc. Then I think I rolled it too tight and it just wouldn't wick properly.

Here's my wick in the tank.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2

 

[JollyRogers]

Got it! Thanks Dan. This is an incredible kit by any means!

The tiny PTFE piece is that for the base if we want to put it in there? I haven't wicked and coiled it yet, but am fixing to now...

ETA. Nevermind. Just watched Dan's videos again.

 

[ED-209]

Main reason is that the surface area of the wick is larger allowing fewer wraps to = the same ohms and the smaller diameter wick. Also for the chain vaper it delivers more juice, less dry hits.
Dan

Thanks Dan and that makes sense, guess I am not considered a chain vaper, yet at least, as I mainly take 2 drags every 10 - 15 minutes as it seems the faster I take drags between each other the less throat hit I get and for me that's what I have to have however now I'm a little cautious as I've seen everyone say once you go to Genesis SS wicks that you will need to lower your nic mg and currently I'm at 24, but cheap juice, so we'll see.

What's funny is I looked at the difference at the cost per wick per sheet of mesh for these two dimensions and using the original dimensions came up to roughly $.17 per wick and the new dimensions are $.31 per wick, so I think I can spare $.14 LOL considering I'm using cartos now and spending a fortune when comparing to these amounts.

Thanks again for the help and info

 

[lorderos33]

I have a bad knee...can you exchange/replace that for me?....

That might be a little bit harder a request for Dan to get done.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[GoneWiththeWind]

ok guys-i need help....lots of help. just got unit from coop that started last fall- ive looked everywhere (includidng dan's utube channel) and am still lost.

got unit today (ordered pre-assembled with drip tip). ive got lots of stainless tubes, an o ring and i just dont know whats going on. i dont even remember what this thing is called, or what equipment i need to order from ebay (i know kanthal-but what size, what else needed besides that).


how do i put wick stuff together-im hoping there's a video somewhere. am i supposed to put my juice in these metal tubes? i thought it came with some kind of tank.

im 2 confused and have been looking everwhere for answers....

 

[Killjoy1]

Look through here for most of the info: G-Tank-US | All you ever needed to know…