G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2

[MikeE3]

Ok, I'm not whining here, but sharing information and my findings.

I just cut another 35mm x 35mm square and rolled that sucker TIGHT. I took my time and painstakingly got it rolled as tightly as possible. It was too big in diameter to thread thru the middle piece "spike hole."

I'm gonna stop wasting my mesh trying to get that particular size square to fit. If a smaller size square which I can roll to fit won't give me the optimal performance from this tank atty, then I'll just have to call it good and either live with it or die from it.

Slow and steady, slow and steady, when you start rolling the wick. The 1st few wraps, I found important, to get as tight/snug as you can. With a good foundation (meaning small in diameter) you'll be able to work with a full 35x35mm piece. I just starting out too, no expert speaking here. But that's one of the tricks that helped me roll a wick. Getting a good start and being patient with the 1st third of rolling it will make it go easier.

I put a small crease on one edge that I lay a needle into (the crease doesn't even completely wrap around the needle) then begin wraping. When I get 1/3 to 1/2 of it wrapped I slide it off the needle and gently continue rolling it. When it's completely rolled I hold it between both thumbs and index fingers and work it in my fingers from one end to the other and back again all the time applying some pressure.

Test fit, if still too large in diameter, I just work it again rolling it from end to end. I've actually rolled a 35x35 too thin and it slipped right through the hole. I carefully unrolled it then re-rolled it so it would be a snug but not tight fit.

Gad! It's difficult to describe - but I hope this helps a little. Or at least encourages you to keep trying.

 

[Lucacri]

Hey guys, I got my GTUS (thanks to Dan for resend it)

A question tho: my tanks (specially the external tubes) smell... I don't know how to describe it, but if i vape trough them, it smells like fresh metal + some sort of product. It's definitely not what it is supposed to smell like.
I tried cleaning them with water, water+dish soap, peroxide and now soaking them in alchool but they still smell. Any advice?

Anyone? I basically can't use the tanks because the smell is baaaad. I even asked my gf to smell them and she agrees

 

[Quigsworth]

Hey Pseudus, long time no hear...hope things are good...

I wanted to drop in and apologize for not getting the site updated some more, and I never had the chance to follow thru with the plans I had either. If anyone is interested in doing some work on the site let me know and I will give you access. I still haven't gotten my G-Tank-US working very well, but I haven't tried very hard either. Will be bringing it to Florida, hopefully someone there will help me...maybe? Dan? lol.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Youssefa]

Ok, I'm not whining here, but sharing information and my findings.

I just cut another 35mm x 35mm square and rolled that sucker TIGHT. I took my time and painstakingly got it rolled as tightly as possible. It was too big in diameter to thread thru the middle piece "spike hole."

I'm gonna stop wasting my mesh trying to get that particular size square to fit. If a smaller size square which I can roll to fit won't give me the optimal performance from this tank atty, then I'll just have to call it good and either live with it or die from it.

use 25x35.....................

 

[Youssefa]

Anyone? I basically can't use the tanks because the smell is baaaad. I even asked my gf to smell them and she agrees

you have to WASH them, That is the lathing oil, DONT VAPE THAT!

 

[Krythis]

Check for drill burs in the airholes first

thx for the tip. Clearing them out helped, may still to widen it though. I like an easy draw

 

[ED-209]

Thanks SOOOOOO much Dan for all your help with this. Got mine today but wasn't able to play until a couple of hours ago. So have just 2 questions, for now LOL, and apologies ahead of time for the length but wanted to make sure I give as much info on the situation and setup...

Ok, I've been following all the threads, watching the vids like daily and and had some practice with mesh wicks previously so would call myself a novice vs. noob for genesis attys but here's the situation:

Ok, previously had some 20 mm x 35 mm wick rolled and washed so figured I would practice with those and my G-Tank doesn't have the PTFE's installed. So went through the ritual of rolling further until the coil was able to go through the middle spike hole, not tight but not really loose, so did the oxidation process and wrapped the coils (about 5 to 6) tight enough where there wasn't space between the coils and the wick as well as no coils touching. Wrapped the ends around the connection screws pretty tight and screwed down enough to where it was tight but didn't want to take the chance at stripping the positive screw. Checked the ohms with my Vari and it read 1.9 - 2.0 then test fired and all coils glowed so proceeded to finish the setup using the 3ml plastic tank with the 3 ml steel top.

I set the voltage at 3.8 as that was approximately the same wattage I'd been using with my 2.8 Boge cartos at 4.5 volts and got really really cool vapor (so cool as I wasn't sure I was vaping) and very very little flavor but no TH or burnt taste. So kicked it up gradually all the way up to 4.4 until I noticed a difference then got very slightly warmer vapor and a little more flavor, but after my double drag I got the harsh TH\ burnt taste. So I did some dry inhales to get the wicking going, tried again and same result, slight flavor, almost no TH, then on double drag was ok, so waited for about a minute, tried again, little flavor then on double drag the harsh burnt taste.

I then opened it up to where I could see the coil and put some juice and tested it.....tons of vapor, then the coil at the top (the small piece between the connection screw and the wick) started glowing red but no other coils glowed, then eventually they did. Put more juice, tons of vapor, no red coils but then that same part glowed red and 10 sec later the remaining coils glowed. So tried to tighten the positive connection screw some but same results.

So, not really sure what to try next, and not sure if it's because I am using the smaller wick without the PTFE insert? I know shorts are usually shown by one coil glowing by itself but the glowing coil part is the small wire that connects the positive post to the wick, none of the coils on the wick glow while this does and then when the wick is dry they all glow. I'm thinking I just need to start over with a larger piece of mesh but not sure if I'm doing anything else wrong, below are the best pics I could get showing the glowing red part while the other coils don't glow, not the best pics but very difficult to get the timing down LOL.

One other question....is it normal for juice to seep\overflow out of the airhole to the outside and down of the side of the atty? Again didn't know if this is due to the smaller wick dimensions I am using but it's pretty consistent in that after I test it with 8 or so drags, I rub my finger over the air hole on the outside and there's juice and hoping this is somehow related to the same issue above.

Thanks again for any and all help\tips.

 

[Ariel_MX]

Hi ED-209,

My G-Tank US is on its way to Mexico, so I haven't played with it yet, but for what I see and if I understood well, the glowing is near to the positive post, it seems the mesh wick is acting as the negative post, somehow it is touching the G-Tank body (negative) and conducting electricity, I mean, electricity is traveling from the positive post through the little piece of Kanthal and then closing the circuit through the mesh wick, instead traveling through all the kanthal and closing the circuit with the negative screw.

Is the mesh isolated from the body in the place where it sits?

A good tip from beeorchid (VW) I have been using to prevent that kind of problems in my Line is quenching the mesh in sugar water.

 

[ED-209]

Hi ED-209,

My G-Tank US is on its way to Mexico, so I haven't played with it yet, but for what I see and if I understood well, the glowing is near to the positive post, it seems the mesh wick is acting as the negative post, somehow it is touching the G-Tank body (negative) and conducting electricity, I mean, electricity is traveling from the positive post through the little piece of Kanthal and then closing the circuit through the mesh wick, instead traveling through all the kanthal and closing the circuit with the negative screw.

Is the mesh isolated from the body in the place where it sits?

A good tip from beeorchid (VW) I have been using to prevent that kind of problems in my Line is quenching the mesh in sugar water.

Hey Ariel, you're gonna enjoy it, the craftsmanship is 2nd to none and Dan just went above and beyond.

Ok, that makes sense and currently it just sits at the bottom against the steel, the PTFE isn't currently installed. I did the quenching (4 times) and then the burn off of juice with a lighter as well as burned the kanthal wire while on the mesh\wick with a lighter, BUT now that you mention that I did noticed when I was using my torch that while most of the mesh burned red and took a sec to do so, the tips or the end of each side it would glow very bright red right away, seemed like there was some fray on the end, so could that be it and is what's causing not only the glow but the taste and poor wick performance?

If that's the case, then how does it still work, or is it like I have a dual coil setup, the part that glows red right away and then the normal part?

One last question for those NOT using a PTFE, how are you preventing this? Are you just ensuring the mesh wick end that sits in the bottom of the body is trimmed to prevent fray ends using a wire cutter?

Even though I'm not getting it to work right, I really enjoy tinkering with this and have all the time in the world to play with this and become a pro. When I get frustrated, I just think back to the days when I first started, good ole carts, and now think what I know, use and work with so looking forward to learning all the Genesis tricks and this atty and accessories are a thing of beauty and would have gotten more but honestly one will last forever it seems.

Thanks again for the help, I think I might just do another wick making sure I don't see any frays or even possibly just adjusting the current wick and or trimming the fray ends off or re-oxidizing it in sugar water.

 

[theECB]

Dan. Your dedication is amazing. Thank you. This unit is incredible.

A few quick tricks and tips.

First, tank creep fix without wave washer. Use a small nail (picture hanging or smaller. Cut to length so that it will drop down into the juice tank cover.

Then drop in juice tank and screw unit bank together.

The nail keeps the draw nice and clear and the tank won't push up and obstruct the air flow.

Hope this helps others.

 

[Murdock Ruml]

Dan. Your dedication is amazing. Thank you. This unit is incredible.

A few quick tricks and tips.

First, tank creep fix without wave washer. Use a small nail (picture hanging or smaller. Cut to length so that it will drop down into the juice tank cover.

Then drop in juice tank and screw unit bank together.

The nail keeps the draw nice and clear and the tank won't push up and obstruct the air flow.

Hope this helps others.

Amazing Idea!

 

[theECB]

Here are a few coils pics. Tried my best to get clear shots.

 

[theECB]

Thanks Murdock. Necessity and all...

 

[theECB]

Also, I found out I could use it as a dripper without modification. The wick sticks out the top so that I can drop a few drops directly on it.

The wick actually sticks up into my drip top so dripping into the SS Ming tip works pretty well. I just really needed a quick flavor change.

Then when done I just put the middle section back on. I have left on my t-tank spike but I'm not using the spacers either.

 

[theECB]

Oh and just cause it's Friday night. Here are a few more tribute photos to Dan's other creations inspirations etc.

 

[k3vin]

Mudflap I did a 20x35 works good

 

[asdaq]

After day 1 I discovered liquid had leaked down into the lower chamber, undoutably my gluing of the nylon screw wasn't working, the tension from the #0 80 screw was greater than the #6 32 threading. So with intentions of getting back in there to glue it better, I made a few changes and didn't get around to gluing it.

Since the brass piece is threaded for the screw this forms the base of the connection, it is nice and secured from the other parts. I removed the nylon screw and the SS spacer. In their place there is a SS M2 nut (M1.6 matches the #0 80 threading if anyone's interested) a small SS spring (from SGV3 inspired ideas) and a stack of small o-rings and beveled rubber washers to isolate and seal in place of the nylon screw. This gets inserted in the #6 32 hole and is screwed into the brass piece to secure everything. Most important are the top and bottom o-rings to seal and center the screw, between these is just filler. Once installed the screw never has to be turned again and the kanthal pinches in between the head of the screw and the nut. A small enough SS washer would be nice too, but I don't have any.

Makes coil changing that much easier.

The negative could be done the same way with a longer screw, and the spring and nut inverted, but I don't have that either, and that one is easy enough anyway.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Anyone? I basically can't use the tanks because the smell is baaaad. I even asked my gf to smell them and she agrees

Hmmm that is wierd, nobody else has complained about a smell. Are talking about the small SS tanks that hold the liquid or the threaded tops? Try boiling them in water in a pot on the stove with a little vineger added, that should cleanse and arrest the smell. Then rinse them with cool water afterwards.

Thanks SOOOOOO much Dan for all your help with this. Got mine today but wasn't able to play until a couple of hours ago. So have just 2 questions, for now LOL, and apologies ahead of time for the length but wanted to make sure I give as much info on the situation and setup...

Ok, I've been following all the threads, watching the vids like daily and and had some practice with mesh wicks previously so would call myself a novice vs. noob for genesis attys but here's the situation:

Ok, previously had some 20 mm x 35 mm wick rolled and washed so figured I would practice with those and my G-Tank doesn't have the PTFE's installed. So went through the ritual of rolling further until the coil was able to go through the middle spike hole, not tight but not really loose, so did the oxidation process and wrapped the coils (about 5 to 6) tight enough where there wasn't space between the coils and the wick as well as no coils touching. Wrapped the ends around the connection screws pretty tight and screwed down enough to where it was tight but didn't want to take the chance at stripping the positive screw. Checked the ohms with my Vari and it read 1.9 - 2.0 then test fired and all coils glowed so proceeded to finish the setup using the 3ml plastic tank with the 3 ml steel top.

I set the voltage at 3.8 as that was approximately the same wattage I'd been using with my 2.8 Boge cartos at 4.5 volts and got really really cool vapor (so cool as I wasn't sure I was vaping) and very very little flavor but no TH or burnt taste. So kicked it up gradually all the way up to 4.4 until I noticed a difference then got very slightly warmer vapor and a little more flavor, but after my double drag I got the harsh TH\ burnt taste. So I did some dry inhales to get the wicking going, tried again and same result, slight flavor, almost no TH, then on double drag was ok, so waited for about a minute, tried again, little flavor then on double drag the harsh burnt taste.

I then opened it up to where I could see the coil and put some juice and tested it.....tons of vapor, then the coil at the top (the small piece between the connection screw and the wick) started glowing red but no other coils glowed, then eventually they did. Put more juice, tons of vapor, no red coils but then that same part glowed red and 10 sec later the remaining coils glowed. So tried to tighten the positive connection screw some but same results.

So, not really sure what to try next, and not sure if it's because I am using the smaller wick without the PTFE insert? I know shorts are usually shown by one coil glowing by itself but the glowing coil part is the small wire that connects the positive post to the wick, none of the coils on the wick glow while this does and then when the wick is dry they all glow. I'm thinking I just need to start over with a larger piece of mesh but not sure if I'm doing anything else wrong, below are the best pics I could get showing the glowing red part while the other coils don't glow, not the best pics but very difficult to get the timing down LOL.

One other question....is it normal for juice to seep\overflow out of the airhole to the outside and down of the side of the atty? Again didn't know if this is due to the smaller wick dimensions I am using but it's pretty consistent in that after I test it with 8 or so drags, I rub my finger over the air hole on the outside and there's juice and hoping this is somehow related to the same issue above.

Thanks again for any and all help\tips.

If the wire going from the pos post to the wick glws initially, then you have a short at that point where it touches the wick. Move the coil up and down and refire dry until the entire glows when the power is pushed. Have had this happen and it was a quick fix. Seeping out the air hole is from flooding to much juice in the combustion chamber will reduce vapor production and cause seeping and guggling at the air hole. This = a wick that is allowing flooding.

After day 1 I discovered liquid had leaked down into the lower chamber, undoutably my gluing of the nylon screw wasn't working, the tension from the #0 80 screw was greater than the #6 32 threading. So with intentions of getting back in there to glue it better, I made a few changes and didn't get around to gluing it.

Since the brass piece is threaded for the screw this forms the base of the connection, it is nice and secured from the other parts. I removed the nylon screw and the SS spacer. In their place there is a SS M2 nut (M1.6 matches the #0 80 threading if anyone's interested) a small SS spring (from SGV3 inspired ideas) and a stack of small o-rings and beveled rubber washers to isolate and seal in place of the nylon screw. This gets inserted in the #6 32 hole and is screwed into the brass piece to secure everything. Most important are the top and bottom o-rings to seal and center the screw, between these is just filler. Once installed the screw never has to be turned again and the kanthal pinches in between the head of the screw and the nut. A small enough SS washer would be nice too, but I don't have any.

Makes coil changing that much easier.

The negative could be done the same way with a longer screw, and the spring and nut inverted, but I don't have that either, and that one is easy enough anyway.

Nice set up asdaq! was wondering when someone would do this setup leave it to you hehehehe


@ECB
Wow to many pics to delete to quote you LOL, great tips and pics looking good!
Dan

 

[JollyRogers]

Hey quick question. I setup last night and am using a T-tank. I am using 100% VG Boba's. I use BB all the time with the top coil setups I have (Orion, Zenesis, etc.) with no issue. With an almost full tank, it was wicking OK, but when it gets down low it stops wicking. My wick is sticking up into the tank about halfway and one of the things I remember when I used my A-2TM in this mode was I cut the wick just a hair above the piercing needle. I have my tiny wick (I put the PTFE pieces in both the nipple and the base) and coil running with a 5 wrap coil @ 1.7Ω and it definitely is not shorting. PITA to get setup on a ProvariV1 due to the E1 and E4s, but got it.

Any opinions for T-tank use and where I should end the wick above the nipple?

 

[Airborn3]

I got my G-tank-US yesterday. After some polishing and installing the wick/coil it is vaping like a dream. Thanks again Dan.

Here's some pics.