G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2
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Yeah, I thought about that. That why I said ever so slightly. The thing is way to hard to turn. Makes it hard to get the coil right but the allen head screw would make it easier, I just didn't know one was made that small. What is it called?
So I guess that would be a 0-80 1/2" cap screw. Thanks, I did notice we have a Fastenal store here, I'll have to go in and see if they think I'm crazy when I ask if they have a couple. lol
my local Fastenal store hates me, I do that all the time...and by the sounds of it, I'll be doing it again...that's a good idea with the cap screws. 
Break time failure X6 
keeps shorting when put together guessing no getting a good ox when preping. Hey i have it working in drip mode..... ok dinner then i will try again.
keeps shorting when put together guessing no getting a good ox when preping. Hey i have it working in drip mode..... ok dinner then i will try again.
The tanks I received from COV have plastic caps, am I reading this correctly that there is a silicone version that works better?
That being said I've made it through my first tank w/o issue or switching back to the SGV3
That being said I've made it through my first tank w/o issue or switching back to the SGV3
Yes the silicone caps supposedly keep it from leaking. They do seem better for various other reasons, too. Bruce probaly sell them separately, if not Good Prophets has them.
#0-80 x 1/2" 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Cap Screw | Fastenal
#0-80 x 1/8" 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Cap Screw | Fastenal
Replacing the 1/8" philips head screw with a socket cap screw wasn't really necessary, but I figured what they hey. Bring the sku numbers with you to the store and ask them to get them for you. It will take a few days, but it's much cheaper than ordering them online (as far as I know).
Good Prophets only had type-A silicone caps in stock and plastic for type-b. I found silicone caps, black tanks, 1500 mah 18500s, and 3100 mah 18650s on VaporKings. 2.76 shipping and a 10% ECF coupon to boot...wish I found that site sooner
This is what I did to get rid of shorting issues. Not using any isolators. I torched the mesh after I cut it, but before I rolled it(NO QUENCHING). Then soaked and burned VG( I think that step is a waste ). Then use lighter/candle to soot the wick and length of kanthal. Wrapped coil and used lighter on it again, sooting the entire length. then took the piece with piercer and held over candle allowing it to soot the inside, including the inside of piercer then installed the wick with coil. test fired. NO SHORTS first time, No fiddling with the coil.
Personally I got so wrapped up in what OTHER ppl were doing I wasn't think about the goal. That is to make the wick non conductive.
Personally I got so wrapped up in what OTHER ppl were doing I wasn't think about the goal. That is to make the wick non conductive.
The fact is if the coil section is oxidized properly there should be no shorts anywhere. I always oxidize the whole wick becouse it seems to wick better, but the end where the coil is gets the focus. Make sure there are no frayes by folding the mesh back befor rolling so there is no cut edge comming in contact with the coil and trimming the ends after rolling to do away with frays on the ends.
The next thing to watch for is the kanthal coil it must be very close to the wick at all points but not so tight that you can't twist the mesh in the coil after it is installed. Watch the end coils to make sure they come straight off the mesh to the contacts no curving it is easy to remove the curve with a tooth pic just push the kanthal gently towards the mesh making a slight bend or kink just out from the wick.
Another trick I use is to finish the wick rolling with a small board 3 inches wide by 12 inches long on my desk top this will true up and reduce the size of the wick evenly. Place the prerolled wick on the desk the board on the wick and draw the board with some pressure across the wick to tighten the roll to the desired size. keeping one square end of the board on the desk will help to keep the wick true, but if for some reason you want to taper the wick you can very easly apply more pressure to one end of the wick or side of the board to make an even taper.
Hope this helps someone. remember OXIDIZE !!! OXIDIZE !!! OXIDIZE!!
D.Rat
The next thing to watch for is the kanthal coil it must be very close to the wick at all points but not so tight that you can't twist the mesh in the coil after it is installed. Watch the end coils to make sure they come straight off the mesh to the contacts no curving it is easy to remove the curve with a tooth pic just push the kanthal gently towards the mesh making a slight bend or kink just out from the wick.
Another trick I use is to finish the wick rolling with a small board 3 inches wide by 12 inches long on my desk top this will true up and reduce the size of the wick evenly. Place the prerolled wick on the desk the board on the wick and draw the board with some pressure across the wick to tighten the roll to the desired size. keeping one square end of the board on the desk will help to keep the wick true, but if for some reason you want to taper the wick you can very easly apply more pressure to one end of the wick or side of the board to make an even taper.
Hope this helps someone. remember OXIDIZE !!! OXIDIZE !!! OXIDIZE!!
D.Rat
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Hey all...
Here's a question that has probably been answered.....
Is there a way to tighten the draw just a smidge?
Or is it just something I'm doing/not doing right?
I have to pull three or four times with the PV button pressed to get vapor going. I've tried a shorter tip, but doesn't seem to help much.
Any tips on this?
Here's a question that has probably been answered.....
Is there a way to tighten the draw just a smidge?
Or is it just something I'm doing/not doing right?
I have to pull three or four times with the PV button pressed to get vapor going. I've tried a shorter tip, but doesn't seem to help much.
Any tips on this?
If you want the draw tightened, meaning stiffer to draw do this. Remove the top and locate the 4 air holes at the base of the tank. Use a toothpick and jam it into one of the holes and snap it off. Check the draw, still to airy, then do another hole in the same way 90 degrees from the one you just did, that way if you want to reverse the process you can poke it back out from the oppisite hole. The wood will swell slightly when the PG gets to it and will obstruct the airflow.
Dan
Thanks Dan!
I'll give that a shot. Awesome atty.... just takes me a few "pulls" to get it going.
Is that common?
Ok was thinking about the pain in the A-- it was for the threaded nylon screw and the tightening of the screw, not much I can do at this point. But for future co-op i.e. the BFG hint hint wink wink, I will use this configuration in lieu of the nylon screw. It is two silicone 9/64"OD x 3/64"ID x 3/64" thick orings. Rather than threading the hole it will be over drilled and resessed on both side so the orings will act and a centering buffer and electrical/juice isolation point. And it will make it easier to assemble and tighten/untighten.
Anyway what do yall think?
Dan
Anyway what do yall think?
Dan
If it is taking a few pulls, you might have a wicking problem (dry hits) untill after a couple of pulls the juice starts flowing. Try covering the hole with you finger and suck or blow once and then try, if it hits without the extra pulls then it is probably a wicking issue.
Dan
Hey Dan, I remember a while back you demo'd a prototype that had a controlled airflow. Which mod was that? SGV5 or something like that?
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