G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2

[asdaq]

Ok was thinking about the pain in the A-- it was for the threaded nylon screw and the tightening of the screw, not much I can do at this point. But for future co-op i.e. the BFG hint hint wink wink, I will use this configuration in lieu of the nylon screw. It is two silicone 9/64"OD x 3/64"ID x 3/64" thick orings. Rather than threading the hole it will be over drilled and resessed on both side so the orings will act and a centering buffer and electrical/juice isolation point. And it will make it easier to assemble and tighten/untighten.

Anyway what do yall think?

Dan

That's kinda what I got but with a few or 2 smaller orings in between in case I get shot at or that screw explodes. Or if any liquid just THINKS about seeping down under.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Here is the resessed hole idea for the orings in the BFG:

Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

That's kinda what I got but with a few or 2 smaller orings in between in case I get shot at or that screw explodes. Or if any liquid just THINKS about seeping down under.

I figured by resessing the hole, when the standoff is tightened down it will squish the oring helping to keep the screw centered and stop juice from getting in. No shorts, no leaks.
Dan

 

[Quigsworth]

I like the idea Dan, and I know silicon "O" rings shouldn't degrade with PG but I'd be more concerned with mechanical movement the "O" rings would allow by virtue of the torquing of the connector screw and ultimately damaging the threads in the pos plate. I like the recess in the base but instead of flexible "O" rings use nylon washers...

Just a thought...

 

[harmonic]

oh say have the ghost tops been sent out yet? not sure where else to ask or look lol

 

[Teach]

oh say have the ghost tops been sent out yet? not sure where else to ask or look lol

GP Thread under co-ops.... order out on the 29th of May.

 

[harmonic]

GP Thread under co-ops.... order out on the 29th of May.

ah i still haven't got the verified thingy so i cant get to that.
but if they went out the 29th i would think they should have made it here by now...

 

[Scubabatdan]

I like the idea Dan, and I know silicon "O" rings shouldn't degrade with PG but I'd be more concerned with mechanical movement the "O" rings would allow by virtue of the torquing of the connector screw and ultimately damaging the threads in the pos plate. I like the recess in the base but instead of flexible "O" rings use nylon washers...

Just a thought...

Naw, the nylon would allow seeping into the lower connection area, not worried about the threads as you would be screwing into a ss plate. I mean how tight are you gonna tighten a 0-80 screw Also the nylon washers would sandwich the metal plate during assembly, so not worried about the tourque from tightening into a 510 connector. Big area friction would win over little area friction.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

ah i still haven't got the verified thingy so i cant get to that.
but if they went out the 29th i would think they should have made it here by now...

They were ordered on the 29th (being made)
Dan

 

[harmonic]

They were ordered on the 29th (being made)
Dan

oh i see. thank you dan. paypal bs is keeping me from getting verified - they dont want to let my wife and i link to the same bank account and i not opening another account just for them....

 

[Robert T]

Thanks Mudflap, now I can go in armed with their parts numbers. lol

#0-80 x 1/2" 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Cap Screw | Fastenal

#0-80 x 1/8" 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Cap Screw | Fastenal

Replacing the 1/8" philips head screw with a socket cap screw wasn't really necessary, but I figured what they hey. Bring the sku numbers with you to the store and ask them to get them for you. It will take a few days, but it's much cheaper than ordering them online (as far as I know).

 

[AmnNate]

Man, I can't wait for the BFG!!! I need at least 2! Then I will be all rebuildabled out, lol!

On another subject, I tried the "tissue paper trick" (with actual tissue paper as I didn't have any rolling papers handy) and it of course worked as advertised! Perfect coil first try and not a single short. Man, that's a great tip! Thanks y'all! Keep 'em comin.

 

[MikeE3]

The fact is if the coil section is oxidized properly there should be no shorts anywhere. I always oxidize the whole wick becouse it seems to wick better, but the end where the coil is gets the focus. Make sure there are no frayes by folding the mesh back befor rolling so there is no cut edge comming in contact with the coil and trimming the ends after rolling to do away with frays on the ends.

The next thing to watch for is the kanthal coil it must be very close to the wick at all points but not so tight that you can't twist the mesh in the coil after it is installed. Watch the end coils to make sure they come straight off the mesh to the contacts no curving it is easy to remove the curve with a tooth pic just push the kanthal gently towards the mesh making a slight bend or kink just out from the wick.

Another trick I use is to finish the wick rolling with a small board 3 inches wide by 12 inches long on my desk top this will true up and reduce the size of the wick evenly. Place the prerolled wick on the desk the board on the wick and draw the board with some pressure across the wick to tighten the roll to the desired size. keeping one square end of the board on the desk will help to keep the wick true, but if for some reason you want to taper the wick you can very easly apply more pressure to one end of the wick or side of the board to make an even taper.

Hope this helps someone. remember OXIDIZE !!! OXIDIZE !!! OXIDIZE!!
D.Rat

My 1st few attempts - coils were unstable and after a few days the Ω's dropped so low I had to start over. The wick/coil I'm vaping now has been rock solid at 2.0Ω for about 8 days now.

I heated/quenched in water 4 times, then heated/quenched another 4 times using PG. I had no shorts when I hooked up the coil and tested it - didn't have to adjust the wraps at all. I don't know if what I did was "over doing it" but it worked for me.

But I did try to wrap the coil tightly to the wick. Not so tight that I'd crush it, but I was having a problem with my first few that the coil would 'unwind' and be loose when connecting it to the +/- posts. Then I'd have to push it around with a tooth pick to get it to 'cling' to the wick. I thought I was making it too loose and that was causing me problems, so I tried to make it snug.

Is the idea of being able to twist the wick in the coil to aid in the coil firing up or with wicking - or both.?

 

[ukeman]

A number of us are receiving our G Tank US packages this week. Is there any or going to be a vid or breakdown of how to put this puppy together?

After searching the "pseudo" page link, I haven't found any GTank US "for dummies" ... put together, feed and vape. (not looking for how to make a mesh coil ).

 

[Youssefa]

HERE ARE VIDS

G-Tank-US | All you ever needed to know…

 

[Youssefa]

 

[bluegrasslover]

For those of you that have gtanks and scubagens...how do the two compare in warmth of vape? I just don't know if the gtank is going to work out for me because of the cooler vap and was maybe thinking about listing it for a trade for a scubagen or some other top coil tank mod. Thoughts?

 

[Darkreign]

My 1st few attempts - coils were unstable and after a few days the Ω's dropped so low I had to start over. The wick/coil I'm vaping now has been rock solid at 2.0Ω for about 8 days now.

I heated/quenched in water 4 times, then heated/quenched another 4 times using PG. I had no shorts when I hooked up the coil and tested it - didn't have to adjust the wraps at all. I don't know if what I did was "over doing it" but it worked for me.

But I did try to wrap the coil tightly to the wick. Not so tight that I'd crush it, but I was having a problem with my first few that the coil would 'unwind' and be loose when connecting it to the +/- posts. Then I'd have to push it around with a tooth pick to get it to 'cling' to the wick. I thought I was making it too loose and that was causing me problems, so I tried to make it snug.

Is the idea of being able to twist the wick in the coil to aid in the coil firing up or with wicking - or both.?

Being able to twist the wick in the coil is more of a test as to how tight the coils are. Too tight and it will short, too loose and you get poor production. Another advantage to being able to twist the wick is to identify and fix the shorts you might have. If you fire it and you can see where it is shorting you can twist the wick slightly and it relocates all the spots where the coil touches so you have a chance of landing on an area with more oxidation.

 

[bstedh]

For those of you that have gtanks and scubagens...how do the two compare in warmth of vape? I just don't know if the gtank is going to work out for me because of the cooler vap and was maybe thinking about listing it for a trade for a scubagen or some other top coil tank mod. Thoughts?

Have you tried the t-tank... its warmer.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

 

[bluegrasslover]

Have you tried the t-tank... its warmer.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

Yup. I even made a really short ghost protocol to get as close as possible to the coil. I'm running a Kicked tube @ 10w. The GTUS is awesome and I want to love it but I want to feel more warmth.