G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2

Status
Not open for further replies.

ukeman

PV Masher
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2010
7,718
5,129
Kauai, Hawaii

Krythis

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 4, 2010
536
99
45
WNY
krythis.com
GTUS_Post.jpg
0-80 Stud(Shortened with Dremel)
0-80 Hex Nut

Screw had a very short life. Stud went in tight and no longer have to worry about stripping the screw or insulator.
 

Krythis

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 4, 2010
536
99
45
WNY
krythis.com
For a good connection it should be screwed down. Even on my SGV3, where I use a spring/washer setup for my negative post, on occasion I have to pop the top and give the washers an extra squeeze when the resistance goes up. Otherwise you have a current drop at that location and it will not function properly.
 

Killjoy1

Ω Destroyer
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 15, 2011
9,304
9,365
46
New Hampshire, US
thanks for that Youseffa, is there a link on that site that shows or tells how to put the pieces together? I think mine is assembled as far as the coil section, but putting together and filling the tank....?
Bottom | G-Tank-US
the first two videos on this page are for the assembly if you didn't get yours pre-assembled by Dan. The third video is the coil prep and you can see how the bottom parts fit together over the wick.

For the 3ml and 5ml tanks, just put the o-ring in the channel on the piece the wick sticks through and your juice tank presses down over that. Then your top covers screw down over that

For the T-tank, ignore the o-ring and screw the T-top on, then press your cartridge down into it just like with the eGo-T attys

For the drip top, just screw the drip cover directly onto the bottom piece that has the screw posts

Is that what you were looking for?
 

Scubabatdan

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 14, 2009
4,749
6,733
62
Dothan, AL
i dont know if im missing it in the video or what, what size should the metal mesh cut out be? i tried the 15mm by 30, but it always looks way smaller than in any of the videos..

I use 35mm x 35mm without the PTFE inserts.
Making wicks for the GTUS:
G-Tank-US Wick Wrapping - YouTube

Dan
 

AmnNate

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 2, 2010
495
714
Charleston, SC
I'm no expert, but I would think its either the wick isn't oxidized well enough where it comes through the top of the combustion chamber and is shorting there. OR the wick is getting twisted when you screw the cap down all the way and causing the coil to short against the base or itself. Just my 2¢ though, I'm sure someone wiser and more experienced than me will chime in. Keep trying, it's definitely worth it.
 

ime5000

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 15, 2011
2,401
1,955
maryland
possibly not oxidized enough, i was only using a regular lighter to do it.

but it works with it as long as it isnt screwed down all the way... hrmmm,

doesnt seem to be wicking to well either, just a little taste and burning..
this is my first one, so bare with me guys, i thank you in advance with any help!
 

Darkreign

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 3, 2010
402
238
Texas and sometimes Afghanistan
thanks, yea the insulators are not in, i got the wick and the coil done, and it fires up nicely until i put the top piece on... i cant start to screw it down and its working, its working, then once that piece screws all the way on, theres a short or something and nothing will fire.. any ideas?

When you say "nothing will fire" do you mean it does absolutely nothing? What it sounds like to me is you have a short between the positive post and the body of the unit. I have had this happen to me when my screw was bent and slightly angled outwards, touching the middle section when it was installed all the way. The tolerance is very small in this area so I would suggest taking the middle section back off (the section that encloses the combustion area) and looking straight down at the unit. If it even hints that it might be leaning out, or there are any stray pieces of Kanthal, this might be the issue. Just trim any kanthal or push gently on the screw to bend it back towards the center ever so slightly.
 

Killjoy1

Ω Destroyer
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 15, 2011
9,304
9,365
46
New Hampshire, US
Yeah, try giving it a proper oxidizing, a short somewhere is all I can really think of there. If you can't find one of those torch lighters at a local convenience store, you can get one from Amazon for less than $3 (and add a can of butane for refilling for a couple bucks more). This is what I have been using for genni wicks. Works good, but after a few torchings the lighter gets pretty hot and needs a couple minutes to cool off. It'll burn through its fluid reservoir in about a dozen wicks, (why you should buy extra butane with it) but it's cheap and it works :)
 

Scubabatdan

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 14, 2009
4,749
6,733
62
Dothan, AL
thanks, yea the insulators are not in, i got the wick and the coil done, and it fires up nicely until i put the top piece on... i cant start to screw it down and its working, its working, then once that piece screws all the way on, theres a short or something and nothing will fire.. any ideas?

Had this happen to mine, turned out to be a short piece of the kanthal on the pos wire was sticking out just enough to make contact with the top when screwed on. Take off the atty from the battery and screw the top on, then do an ohms check, if it is 0 ohms the pos post is touching the top, or the kanthal is. If it is the ohms of your coil then it is something else.
Dan
 

Scubabatdan

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 14, 2009
4,749
6,733
62
Dothan, AL
When you say "nothing will fire" do you mean it does absolutely nothing? What it sounds like to me is you have a short between the positive post and the body of the unit. I have had this happen to me when my screw was bent and slightly angled outwards, touching the middle section when it was installed all the way. The tolerance is very small in this area so I would suggest taking the middle section back off (the section that encloses the combustion area) and looking straight down at the unit. If it even hints that it might be leaning out, or there are any stray pieces of Kanthal, this might be the issue. Just trim any kanthal or push gently on the screw to bend it back towards the center ever so slightly.

Yeah agreed!
Dan
 

ime5000

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 15, 2011
2,401
1,955
maryland
ok found the short, when i was first messing with it and taking it apart, and of course not knowing what the heck i was doing :p the very bottom piece with the post and the 2 plastic pieces had come apart, the plate was not screwed into that post.
so it was a pita, but i got it screwed back in and put back together. (i hope this makes sense, if not i can take pictures later on in case someone else runs into it)

so... im getting better at making a wick, but its just not wicking that great, should i let it sit a while and filled up to see if it starts wicking good or should it do this right away?
 

Krythis

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 4, 2010
536
99
45
WNY
krythis.com
ok found the short, when i was first messing with it and taking it apart, and of course not knowing what the heck i was doing :p the very bottom piece with the post and the 2 plastic pieces had come apart, the plate was not screwed into that post.
so it was a pita, but i got it screwed back in and put back together. (i hope this makes sense, if not i can take pictures later on in case someone else runs into it)

so... im getting better at making a wick, but its just not wicking that great, should i let it sit a while and filled up to see if it starts wicking good or should it do this right away?

Plug the air hole with your finger and give it a couple light draws. That will draw fluid down the wick.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread