Those o-rings weren't part of the package. You should be able to get some at your local hardware store, 1/2" ID is what I use. The lower of the two is there in order to line up the air hole with the wick, it makes a huge difference in the vape.
G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2
- Thread starter ECFadmin
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I had that problem, even using 400 mesh, when I rolled the wick to narrow. A temporary fix was to roll a thin layer of teflon tape on the wick, then put the top piece back on. This closed the gap and confirmed the wick being too skinny. Yes it still did work this way, but I did ditch that wick and roll a new one.
Yep - like Killjoy said. The lower ring is functional to align the air hole with the wick (or at least not in 'front' of the + post). The top ring is just for 'looks'.
I used Danco 11/16" O.D. x 9/16 I.D. x 1/6". When stretched into place an assembled these are just slightly recessed and I like the looks of it that way.
Hey I was just thinking...Did those Ghost Protocols ever get made and sent out? I never got mine and I have moved since I put the order in.
Also, enjoying the cheese cloth technique. Seems to work nicely!!
Also, enjoying the cheese cloth technique. Seems to work nicely!!
You've no idea where this can lead. If you think PV's can become an obse$$ion, you ain't seen nothing yet. Try paying $120 for some rooster feathers.
The Green Highlander
Our Club
Main Line Fly-Tyers
it's true..I have a pv obsession...lol..we also sell parrot feathers ..people do pay a lot for them..
My old info on wicks says 15mm X 30mm
Dan on YouTube shows 20mm X 35mm
And on another he uses 35mm X 35mm (and folds 1/8" on 2 sides)
Which is the latest best way?
Also, I remember talk that gorilla snot was the best glue to use for gluing the nylon screw threads and center sleeve for the wick ...anything changed on that?
Dan on YouTube shows 20mm X 35mm
And on another he uses 35mm X 35mm (and folds 1/8" on 2 sides)
Which is the latest best way?
Also, I remember talk that gorilla snot was the best glue to use for gluing the nylon screw threads and center sleeve for the wick ...anything changed on that?
35mm X 35mm (and folds 1/8" on 2 sides) & Gorilla brand epoxy were the latest recommendations from Dan for the GTUS.
Mike is correct, I started out with using the PTFE insert which required the wick to be smaller in dia. One of the member said they removed them and it worked better. I have since tried that an the best wick setup I have found is the 35mm x 35mm 400SS IMHO without the PTFE inserts. An as Mike stated yes, the GG 2 part epoxy is best, a little goes along way. I use a ziplock bag to mix on, and tooth picks for dabbing and spreading on the inside of the threads and the nylon screw.
Dan
So the sleeve was not for added insulation in the event that the wick had any spots that could carry current?
I have some 325SS also to try, are the same dimensions going to work for me or do I use a different size?
What size is the paperclip before you straighten it out?
I have some 325SS also to try, are the same dimensions going to work for me or do I use a different size?
What size is the paperclip before you straighten it out?
Ok...I'm out of ideas.
I can't get it to wick, and can't get rid of the hot spots between the posts and wick....no matter how I wrap it. And that's after taking the PTFE tubing out. I'm not worried about shorts...I know I can get the wick oxidized well enough to eliminate that.
Just the base....coil reads 1.5 on the provari. Put the middle section on....drops to 1.0. Take the middle section back off....goes back to 1.5. As of right now...I'm done fighting with it. Haven't had this much trouble with a rebuilable since the first time I used one...
I can't get it to wick, and can't get rid of the hot spots between the posts and wick....no matter how I wrap it. And that's after taking the PTFE tubing out. I'm not worried about shorts...I know I can get the wick oxidized well enough to eliminate that.
Just the base....coil reads 1.5 on the provari. Put the middle section on....drops to 1.0. Take the middle section back off....goes back to 1.5. As of right now...I'm done fighting with it. Haven't had this much trouble with a rebuilable since the first time I used one...
Just a thought
As I was building one the other day and epoxing in the nylon screw I had epoxy left over, so on a whim I coated a toothpick, an ran it up into the mid tube, putting a thin coat on the inner mid tube section where the PTFE spacer would have gone.
As far as the hot spot on the leg wire, I have seen people double those over and twist the excess, so when the kanthal leaves the wick it is twisted double strand to the post. I have seen this in other mods to reduce the wire heating up between the post and the wick in lieu of NR wire.. Might give that a try.
Also check to make sure a strand from the Pos post is not sticking out and touching the mid section. Ran ito that also.
Dan
Not a bad idea on the coating part. I'm not having any issue there I don't think....but I am only human. I was finally able to get the hot spot to go away for a minute...then after taking a few drags, it was back and the ohms of the 4th coil dropped from 1.6 to 1 again like the last coil. I didn't give up...I'm still tinkering. I haven't been beaten buy one in a while...not gonna let this one get the best of me either.
Just a thought
As I was building one the other day and epoxing in the nylon screw I had epoxy left over, so on a whim I coated a toothpick, an ran it up into the mid tube, putting a thin coat on the inner mid tube section where the PTFE spacer would have gone.
As far as the hot spot on the leg wire, I have seen people double those over and twist the excess, so when the kanthal leaves the wick it is twisted double strand to the post. I have seen this in other mods to reduce the wire heating up between the post and the wick in lieu of NR wire.. Might give that a try.
Also check to make sure a strand from the Pos post is not sticking out and touching the mid section. Ran ito that also.
Dan
Not a bad idea on the coating part. I'm not having any issue there I don't think....but I am only human. I was finally able to get the hot spot to go away for a minute...then after taking a few drags, it was back and the ohms of the 4th coil dropped from 1.6 to 1 again like the last coil. I didn't give up...I'm still tinkering. I haven't been beaten buy one in a while...not gonna let this one get the best of me either.
One other thing I have observed
If the wick is not straight (i.e. leaning), then when the mid section is screwed on it will pull the wick back straight putting tension on the wire from the posts causeing a hot spot. So the ohms drop when the mid section is screwd on.
Dan
Okay, I've had one of these going for a couple days so far and it's working great! It's not just you on the metallic TH, I notice that as well, but this gets rid of it. Overall vaping pretty nice and not a dry hit or short in all this time
I couldn't find suitable cheesecloth anywhere at local stores, so I bought some 100% cotton thread (un-dyed "natural" color) at Walmart. Had some trouble finding it, most everything they had for thread was polyester and I wasn't so keen on using that. They only had a very small selection of cotton.
I rinsed it off to change flavor and see how the cotton thread was holding up and I don't see any evidence of burning, maybe some slight discoloration right where the coil wire is, but that's it.
ok i almost didn't mention in fear of disrupting anybody's plans but Dan's vender finally has kanthal in stock
Kanthal
Kanthal
I have a paperclip that is 1 7/8 inches, is this the right one? Just want to be sure that I use the same that Dan is using to ensure that I get the same result...
P.S. not many ppclps around here since I found a giant bag of various sized clips that are black metal with white metal arms inserted into them at a garage sale years ago
P.S. not many ppclps around here since I found a giant bag of various sized clips that are black metal with white metal arms inserted into them at a garage sale years ago
Does it take time for the wick to start working properly? Yesterday I was getting alot of dry hits, but today it is much better and I haven't changed anything.
Not a bad idea on the coating part. I'm not having any issue there I don't think....but I am only human. I was finally able to get the hot spot to go away for a minute...then after taking a few drags, it was back and the ohms of the 4th coil dropped from 1.6 to 1 again like the last coil. I didn't give up...I'm still tinkering. I haven't been beaten buy one in a while...not gonna let this one get the best of me either.
Put some epoxy down in the well also to prevent bottom shorts.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 2
- Status
