G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2

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jamesd1628

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Are you using it with the 'as delivered' hole size & nipple for the eGo tank. I tried the eGo setup when I first got the GTUS and had the same issue. There was a 'hint' to remove the inner baffle of the tank to help. I did and, it did help, but still got juice in my mouth.

Haven't tried the eGo since I started doing the Quigstick, time to revisit it.

I'm not using the ptfe spacer, but the nipple is unmodified.
 

Led Hendriani

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Is the 35x35 with 2 folds actually supposed to fit with an unaltered GTUS?

I built my first wick and finally was able to get it through the nipple but only by super pinch rolling and stretching the tip and then finally using needle nose to pull it through. Unfortunately it also pulled off some of the burnt area on the wick making me think that it would now short in that area...seems like I may have done it wrong...I think that the mesh is 325 (since I can't find my 400 or Kanthal at the moment)
 

Scubabatdan

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Is the 35x35 with 2 folds actually supposed to fit with an unaltered GTUS?

I built my first wick and finally was able to get it through the nipple but only by super pinch rolling and stretching the tip and then finally using needle nose to pull it through. Unfortunately it also pulled off some of the burnt area on the wick making me think that it would now short in that area...seems like I may have done it wrong...I think that the mesh is 325 (since I can't find my 400 or Kanthal at the moment)

The 35x35 is for 400, others have reported 35 x 25 for 325 mesh.
Dan
 

MikeE3

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Is the 35x35 with 2 folds actually supposed to fit with an unaltered GTUS?

I built my first wick and finally was able to get it through the nipple but only by super pinch rolling and stretching the tip and then finally using needle nose to pull it through. Unfortunately it also pulled off some of the burnt area on the wick making me think that it would now short in that area...seems like I may have done it wrong...I think that the mesh is 325 (since I can't find my 400 or Kanthal at the moment)

Yes, with a bit of patience, practice and a pin, a 35x35 can be rolled thin enough to easily slip through the hole (w/o the insulator insert). With a pin inside the wick, while applying pressure w/ you fingers up and down the wick keep rolling it in the same direction that will 'tighten' the 'roll' of the wick. i've found it works best not to reverse direction when rolling it. At least this is what works for me.
 

Led Hendriani

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Alrighty... found out that I need to round off the tip of the wick after I push it through the nipple & cut it. It pulled the wick enough after a couple times opening it up to have a look-see to break the coil at the post. So made another coil, but this time with the help of a lit magnifier so it came out a lot better.

Very interesting the taste difference between this and a 1.7V Resurrector. I miss the warm hit, but will probably get used to it. The next coil will be made with less wraps to see the difference.

I made a mistake by using a medium sized paper clip to clear out all of the smaller holes before even trying it, and it has way too airy of a hit. I quickly put a piece of tape over half of the one hole on the outside. I am wondering if I should just put a touch of gorilla snot glue on one or more of the four holes near the tank itself, or just put some of the glue on the outer hole from the inside so i cover half of it that way.

There is an underlying baseness to the flavor and I am wondering if I was supposed to hit it for bit longer without inhaling in order to really break in the mesh, i did it only 3 times then inhaled.

It leaks a bit from the hole. Should I be taking off the drip tip and standing it upside down to keep the tank from lying on it's side?
 

MikeE3

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.......... and it has way too airy of a hit. I quickly put a piece of tape over half of the one hole on the outside. I am wondering if I should just put a touch of gorilla snot glue on one or more of the four holes near the tank itself, or just put some of the glue on the outer hole from the inside so i cover half of it that way........


.......It leaks a bit from the hole. Should I be taking off the drip tip and standing it upside down to keep the tank from lying on it's side?

Another way to cut airflow is to put a tootpick into 1 or 2 of the four holes. If you plug 2 holes make sure there are 'next to each other' so you can push them out for an 'opposing' hole from opposite the plugged hole.

A bit of juice may leak out the air hole, if a lot is cominng out you wick may be too loose in the hole and the chamber is flooding. Or your wick is wicking too good (he he).
 

Led Hendriani

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Are you only getting a leak when you lay it on its side?

No. I accidentally had it fall from the window sill in the bathroom. It pulled the tank away from it's seating just enough for slow leakage. I still am getting juice on the tank after fully seating and wiping everything. Has anyone used a slightly thicker o-ring at the nipple?

Looks like the 325 at 35x25 may be a bit small for the nipple?
 

MikeE3

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No. I accidentally had it fall from the window sill in the bathroom. It pulled the tank away from it's seating just enough for slow leakage. I still am getting juice on the tank after fully seating and wiping everything. Has anyone used a slightly thicker o-ring at the nipple?

Looks like the 325 at 35x25 may be a bit small for the nipple?

You'll get a coating of juice on the tank. It likely not the o-ring leaking. It comes from condensation, a lot of folks have reported it. Mines always wet when it comes time to take off the top cover and re-fill the tank.
 

Led Hendriani

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I sorta figured it might be condensation, but it is quite a lot for such a short period of time of usage. There are actually big drops on the tank.

I also have a 5V ePower, but never bought the batts for it (I like my 16 18650's!)...but am thinking along the lines of a Gripper VV since it will let me dial exactly what works best on anything on it and I think it will heat more of the juice, meaning less condensation (i hope) but, I am not so sure that the GTUS will be supported at the connection...still don't know if it can be opened up to take apart so that i could gorilla snot the connector (although it could probably done from the outside-just more chances of boffing the job and it looking real cheap)

I want to make a coil with less turns figuring that it will burn hotter and vaporize more of the juice, but this coil is working and i figure that I might as well see how long it lasts, and if i take it off, it will probably break when I try to reattach it.


Speaking of that 5V ePower, been thinking of using a wall wart instead of batteries... I figure a 6V unit will do it, just need to figure out what the best amps would be for it... any tips?
 

Killjoy1

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I don't think you'll eliminate much condensation that way. I've played with different coil ohms and settings on the Darwin, all the way from minimal vapor to the threshold of dry hits, and the amount of condensate I've seen has been about the same no matter what. There's just so much cold metal that the vapor has to pass through. Doing the GP setup with polycarbonate tube and a juice bottle tank does cut down on it considerably, but doesn't eliminate it altogether. Also makes for a slightly warmer vape
 

Led Hendriani

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That's too bad about the condensation :(

Will plugging around the wick after it comes through the nipple, using something thinner than a regular paperclip when rolling the wick, or plugging one or more of the four holes under the nipple attain any positive results toward less condensation?

Also, is it only the 3ml bottle that fits right on the nipple, and, is it only certain bottles that have a specific size opening after cutting the top off? The smallest bottles I have right now are 7ml.
 

Robert T

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Try the eGo T type B set up. Warmer vapor, less condensation, more convenient(don't have to unscrew anything to refill), no O ring slippage to deal with and it makes the unit shorter and lighter. It's just seems better to me. Oh yeah, if you want to you can carry a few extra tanks to make up for the smaller capacity. Pop one out, pop a full one in....easy. Some have an aversion to these based on their experience with the eGo T, but believe me, this ain't no eGo T. :)
 

Led Hendriani

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I definitely will do the type B set-up, I bought a pack of 5 months ago! Just wanted to first get it right with the tank. I have a tube already but no top to it. Was thinking that I need to get one of those top pieces to glue in and then put a bevel on...but would be ok with something else, as long as it works right.

What I have not found yet is info about using this as a dripper. Is it as simple as just using the other piece and dropping about 3 drops directly on the wick, or can you pool up a bit more juice?

If I have not said it yet, I want to thank everyone that is helping me through this! :)
 
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