Geek Vape Aegis. Urgent Update Needed.

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untar

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Btw, slightly OT related to the other thread, I tested on the DNA75c with vaping the atty hot, unlocking ohms and changing battery. When you insert the new battery and turn it on again the ohms appear locked to the old value.
Seems to be an issue with the older dna boards, have a 75 board but not built into any device yet so can't test.
 

Br0k3nW1ngz

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Well v1.0 you have the brightness adjust too. V1.21 lost the ohms lock for some dumb reason. And v1.24 finally fixes if the fire button was left pressed, it would cycle firing for 10 seconds and then stop and then repeat on other earlier versions. And yes the SS TCR was changed from 92 to 96 maybe starting with v1.21.

But none of that bothers me at all. And neither does the new yes/no missing either from v1.0. So many mods will mess up if you take a hot coil off and put it back again. Heck I have over a dozen DNA200 mods. And every single one with the ohms unlocked and you swap batteries while the coil is hot, the DNA will sometimes use the hot resistance as the new cold resistance. If you leave the ohms locked all of the time, they work perfectly when swapping batteries.

While TC can be solid as a rock with all firmware versions under some conditions. But v1.21 (meaning higher than v1.0) and higher I can sometimes find a condition were the TC temperature acts wavy. Turning up the heat speeds up the waves. But I have never experienced this with v1.0 ever so far. All those other fixes on later versions are just so minor fixes for things I don't worry about anyway.
should i be locking my resistance in on aegis? i havnt locked it in and seems consistent
 

Br0k3nW1ngz

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No I haven't found any reason to lock your resistance yet on the Aegis (I don't). Although I should test locking resistance to see if it solves removing a hot TC coil and then reattaching it with firmware v1.0. It might. :)
thank you im more at ease knowing that but if by chance your test gives interesting results let me know
 

BillW50

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I received my Aegis last friday. Is there way to check what firmware version I have without connecting it to computer?
Sure. But everyone I seen so far always come with v1.0. But 5 clicks to turn it off. Then press and hold the plus and minus buttons down for like 4 seconds. V1.0 displays nothing on the screen, while other versions tell you what version you have.
 

Dropmyload

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I have both the Aegis and a G Box, and like to use TC on SS coils. I dont know what version numbers I'm on, I'll check this evening and revert, but I have a few observations for tc using both mods:

  1. Both Aegies and G Box have different tcr numbers for SS. G Box shows 95, Aegis shows 105.
  2. Both are "under-powered". I have a dna75 and arctic fox booted wisemecs, and 420F on geekvape is no way near 420F on the others. I have to go to 460F to get a similar vape to 420F on dna75.
  3. Having said that, I feel once you have your settings to your liking, the vape rather consistent, unlike arctic fox, which keeps jumping to temperature protect on a random basis.
  4. I also feel wattage is under-powered, on my dna I set to 420F and 18.5W, and for a similar vape on Geekvape I have to set to 460F and perhaps 23W.
  5. While the Aegis allows you to lock resistance in TC mode, the G Box has no such feature. Really strange...
Just a few observations from everyday use.
 
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BillW50

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Ah Dropmyload. If the TCR isn't correct, the temperature will be off. That is all it is. I tweak mine so it is right on the money. And 440F on my DNA200 mods is the same as 440F on my Aegis mods.

As for underpowered, it all makes sense if you are using as underpowered battery. While I love my Samsung 25R cells, they can't provide 100 watts. While 60 watts should be fine for them. You can probably push them to like 75 watts, but you are pushing the limits.

Mooch says the Aspire 26650, iJoy 26650, and another one are all the same. I have Aspire 26650 cells and I have figured they are good enough to 129.5 watts comfortably (3.7v x 35A = 129.5 watts). Plenty of power for the Aegis. And there is no difference in the same power level settings between my DNA200 mods vs. my Aegis mods.
 

Hawise

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Mooch says the Aspire 26650, iJoy 26650, and another one are all the same. I have Aspire 26650 cells and I have figured they are good enough to 129.5 watts comfortably (3.7v x 35A = 129.5 watts). Plenty of power for the Aegis. And there is no difference in the same power level settings between my DNA200 mods vs. my Aegis mods.

There are a few problems with the calculation here:
  • Mooch rated the Aspire etc. battery at 30 - 32 A, not 35 A
  • 3.7 v is the nominal voltage, not the cutoff voltage. Unless you've manually set your cutoff voltage to 3.7 (which would mean you'd be using somewhere around 1/3 of the battery's capacity), you need to use 3.2 v.
  • Board efficiency - usually estimated at 90% - isn't accounted for.
In other words, your limit should be much lower:

3.2 v x 30 A x 0.9 = 86 w
 

BillW50

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Ah... but I believe Mooch only posted what the specs were. As far as I know, he never actually tested them. But I know who has.

s-l1600.jpg


Now Hawise, not only can it fire at 30A, but it can also safely pulse at 40A. Since this is more like chain vaping, we can use this instead. And while you use 3.2v, sure if you want to use 95% of the capacity of the cell, but I don't care about that. I want to know what it can deliver at 3.7v and higher. Once my cells gets less than 3.7v, they are dead to me and time for a recharge. Yes that means I only use about 60% of the capacity of a cell. So let's do this again, shall we?

3.7v * 40A = 148 watts peek
148w * 90% = 133.2 watts

And that is a more realistic value and still higher than my original quick figuring. :)
 

BillW50

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No I haven't found any reason to lock your resistance yet on the Aegis (I don't). Although I should test locking resistance to see if it solves removing a hot TC coil and then reattaching it with firmware v1.0. It might. :)

thank you im more at ease knowing that but if by chance your test gives interesting results let me know

Well I haven't lock it yet. But I got my Paranormal DNA250C today and playing with it a lot. So I would take one of my tanks on one of my Aegis with TC and thrown it on the Paranormal (coils were cool when I did this). I did this like four times and throwing the tank with a hot coil back on the Aegis. I never got the new coil, but it was the same coil as before but just hot. And it worked perfectly like I never removed them at all. The ohms read the same as before too.
 

Hawise

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Since this is more like chain vaping, we can use this instead. And while you use 3.2v, sure if you want to use 95% of the capacity of the cell, but I don't care about that. I want to know what it can deliver at 3.7v and higher. Once my cells gets less than 3.7v, they are dead to me and time for a recharge. Yes that means I only use about 60% of the capacity of a cell. So let's do this again, shall we?

3.7v * 40A = 148 watts peek
148w * 90% = 133.2 watts

And that is a more realistic value and still higher than my original quick figuring. :)

OK Bill, but you've added a lot of caveats there. You're also taking a risk pushing a cell to it's limits because you never know how long it'll be able to achieve those limits. It's your choice, of course, and if you're extremely careful:
  • monitoring the state of your batteries and how much they're heating up
  • replacing your batteries very frequently to limit the effects of aging
  • making sure you're never in a situation where your mod's button might accidentally get pressed
  • never letting your batteries dip below 3.7 v

then I expect you'll get away with it. But your original statement was:

I have Aspire 26650 cells and I have figured they are good enough to 129.5 watts comfortably (3.7v x 35A = 129.5 watts). Plenty of power for the Aegis. And there is no difference in the same power level settings between my DNA200 mods vs. my Aegis mods.

This makes no mention of the caveats, so it's still inaccurate as a stand-alone statement. ECF has a lot of readers who don't yet have an in-depth understanding of batteries, and I'm concerned someone could get the wrong idea.
 

BillW50

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OK Bill, but you've added a lot of caveats there. You're also taking a risk pushing a cell to it's limits because you never know how long it'll be able to achieve those limits. It's your choice, of course, and if you're extremely careful:
  • monitoring the state of your batteries and how much they're heating up
  • replacing your batteries very frequently to limit the effects of aging
  • making sure you're never in a situation where your mod's button might accidentally get pressed
  • never letting your batteries dip below 3.7 v

then I expect you'll get away with it. But your original statement was:



This makes no mention of the caveats, so it's still inaccurate as a stand-alone statement. ECF has a lot of readers who don't yet have an in-depth understanding of batteries, and I'm concerned someone could get the wrong idea.
Caveats? What caveats? The cell is capable of producing 148 watts safely. And the mod is capable of 100 watts max. How is that pushing anything to the limit? And you want people to use 3.20v. But the mod refuses to fire below 3.26v. Why do you want them to use a voltage in their calculations that the mod will not even fire at? That is totally ridiculous!

Just watch Busardo's video on the Geek Vape Aegis. He used a cell that couldn't pull 100 watts safely. I knew when I first watched his video that his Brillipower cell couldn't do it. But you don't complain about Busardo doing things people shouldn't be doing anyway, now do you? And what does the mod do with Busardo's underpowered Brillipower? It shuts down just like it is supposed to. That is why we buy mods with all of these protections built in. It keeps dumb people from doing dumb things.
 

Hawise

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Caveats? What caveats? The cell is capable of producing 148 watts safely. And the mod is capable of 100 watts max. How is that pushing anything to the limit? And you want people to use 3.20v. But the mod refuses to fire below 3.26v. Why do you want them to use a voltage in their calculations that the mod will not even fire at? That is totally ridiculous!

Exceeding the CDR tends to stress the battery. Stressing the battery damages it and lowers its performance potential for future use. Once you've pulled excessive power from a battery, you no longer know what it's capable of doing.

3.2 v is the standard figure for that calculation because it's at or slightly below the limits for most mods and saves you the trouble of finding out what the limit for that particular mod is. As you say the limit for the Aegis is 3.26 v, I agree that it would be perfectly reasonable to use 3.26 v instead of 3.2 v. The difference is two watts - 88 w, rather than the 86 w I initially calculated.

Just watch Busardo's video on the Geek Vape Aegis. He used a cell that couldn't pull 100 watts safely. I knew when I first watched his video that his Brillipower cell couldn't do it. But you don't complain about Busardo doing things people shouldn't be doing anyway, now do you?

I'm not the internet police. I don't complain about what Busardo's doing because I don't happen to be interested in watching videos. I am interested in reading ECF. When I encounter something it seems appropriate to comment on, I do so.

And what does the mod do with Busardo's underpowered Brillipower? It shuts down just like it is supposed to. That is why we buy mods with all of these protections built in. It keeps dumb people from doing dumb things.

As I said, I haven't watched the video. If you'd like to give me the timestamp I'll check it out, but I'm not spending an hour on a video I'm not interested in just to find it. That said, given what I know of regulated mods and their safety features and the way batteries work, I doubt the mod shut down. I expect the battery failed - if you try to draw far too much current from a battery the voltage collapses and nothing happens.

I think you're saying here that you believe regulated mods have safety protections that prevent excessive draw on a battery (excessive being something that would damage it, cause venting or trigger thermal runaway). If I've misunderstood you, please correct me. If not, you're mistaken. A regulated mod will not prevent you from damaging, venting or blowing up a battery. They do have one feature that reduces risk somewhat, but its effectiveness is limited.

The only feature that limits what you can do with a battery is the board temperature sensor/shutdown. If your battery is overheating it will eventually heat up the board which will then shut down and stop pulling power from the battery. The problem is that the battery might already have entered an irreversible process leading to venting or thermal runaway well before the board gets overheated and shuts down. It's a good safety feature and may prevent some problems, but it's nowhere near foolproof.

Apart from that, mods have no idea what battery is being used and no way to tell whether that usage is appropriate or not.
 
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