I love my real DID, it's pretty airy, a lot like my ZAP, not quite as airy as that though. The wick hole is huge. You can get around 120mm in there in a solid wick if you roll it really tight. It does seem like the flavor is more intense from the Cobra though, I think it's because the air hole is smaller and the draw is tighter. Flavor from the Did seems similar to my Aga T+.
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I love my real DID, it's pretty airy, a lot like my ZAP, not quite as airy as that though. The wick hole is huge. You can get around 120mm in there in a solid wick if you roll it really tight. It does seem like the flavor is more intense from the Cobra though, I think it's because the air hole is smaller and the draw is tighter. Flavor from the Did seems similar to my Aga T+.
I have one I use for work, it won't really be enough for a satisfying experince for a genny, I don't think. It's a 650mah with (I think) a 2 amp limit. You should order at least a Vamo for your aga. Your going to start hitting voltage deficits pretty quick with that battery once you put a big atomizer on it, and you need to lay some wattage in to a genny to get them humming.
Mini butane torch and a decent set of dental picks, I can have mine wicked and coiled in about ten minutes now. Harbor Freight is your best friend for atomizer tools, lol.
There's not even really a need to oxidise to make a wick work. I never torch my wicks anymore. If you use quality IMR batteries you'll most likely never kill them, and there's no protected battery suitable for low ohm setups really. They have too low amp limits.
If you try and set up an RBA on a eGo or something you'll kill them fast.
How well you have to oxidize your mesh to get started really depends on what guage Kanthal (or Nichrome) you use. Lower gauge resistance wire has a higher resistance differential between the wire and mesh, so you can actually pretty much let the coil oxidize the mesh itself if the wrap is somewhat loose. This is pretty easy with 28 gauge and even 30. As you get in to 32 or 34, the current is much more likely to take a less resistive path down the wick and proper oxidization becomes more important.
I did some 10 and 12 wrap 28g coils and they did heat pretty slow, they put out a lot of vapor though. They get the atomizer pretty hot too by the time they really get warmed up. I use 30g most of the time now. I find it's a perfect trade off between 32 and 28 for me on all my VV stuff.
I did not think of that before, but it makes a lot of sense, and explains my previous problems. Thank you, this will help me in the future.
If you look at the 500 mesh thread this is covered REALLY well there. It's kind of a novel at this point (211 pages) but a great read for Genesis users. BJ43 has some pretty scientific testing over there. For pure wicking, solid 500 or 635 is best. There are a lot of other factors at play here though such a gravitational flow when you tip and volcanic action causing juice to rise up ther hollow center of a straw wick. The link to that thread is http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/330407-500-ss-mesh.html if your interested to the answer to that question in some really painstaking detail.
LOL, that thing took me a week and a half of reading here and there at work. It's really some great info though, glad I made it through it.
I was like that when I first learned of the genesis. Most of what you read is theory and opinions as there is no single rule for any build. Taste, preference, and juice consistency are all variables in building a mesh / coil setup. What may work well for one juice may taste bad for another. As you get your first device and experiment a little you will iron out how you like your own personal setup. That's the best part of RBA's (my opinion of course). Post what you find to share your experience with it
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