Getting so hot!!

[Maria S.]

Ok so I recently wrote about getting the top box nano, well I just got it in. I put the ssocc Ni200 .15 and I charged the 18650 battery that took almost 10 hours lol so I did just order the nitecore 2. Well I put the juice in and I set it to Ni and started out at 420farenheit and i could feel the heat on my lips WTH?? I turned it down but it still seems to heat up... I have 4mg juice in it. Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong? My other TC batteries I don't have to set it, they are set automatically.

 

[IMFire3605]

A lot of things are going on. First, setting something up in TC mode is just like Variable Wattage and Variable Voltage, trial and experiment. Now second and probably what you are asking, Kanger's TC mode you can only adjust the TC, where as like with Joyetech you set the TC as well as the max watts for ramp up, Kanger automatically sets the mod into max watts it can output so it ramps up as fast as possible. With the Topbox that is 75watts, which only affects how fast it ramps up to heat. Only way to affect this is set the TC lower, increase airflow at the bottom, or get a drip tip that has adjustable airflow to cool the vapor down.

Also, 0.15ohms is sub-ohm territory, any time you are sub-ohm you are going to generate a lot of heat

 

[Hitmetwice]

#1 rule is start low and work your way up to the level you like.
420 is not low enough. Some set-ups I run at 350 degrees and I worked UP to that level.
By starting high and working your way down is not gonna give you the best results. Good luck.

BTW 1.0 OHM is sub ohm territory. 0.15 ohm is deep into it,
can't go much lower. Cheers.

 

[Baditude]

 

[Maria S.]

A lot of things are going on. First, setting something up in TC mode is just like Variable Wattage and Variable Voltage, trial and experiment. Now second and probably what you are asking, Kanger's TC mode you can only adjust the TC, where as like with Joyetech you set the TC as well as the max watts for ramp up, Kanger automatically sets the mod into max watts it can output so it ramps up as fast as possible. With the Topbox that is 75watts, which only affects how fast it ramps up to heat. Only way to affect this is set the TC lower, increase airflow at the bottom, or get a drip tip that has adjustable airflow to cool the vapor down.

Also, 0.15ohms is sub-ohm territory, any time you are sub-ohm you are going to generate a lot of heat

What other kind of coil could I use on this tank that is TC? I can't find Ti coils for kanger, only for my joytech. I just put in a ssocc coil .5 and turned the Watts to 20. I'm new to all these mods with batteries I have to put in them. I ordered the joytech evic Vt mini. I use to love kanger but all my subvod and subvod megas leak and I clean them all the time. Ugh very frustrating lol.

 

[Maria S.]

#1 rule is start low and work your way up to the level you like.
420 is not low enough. Some set-ups I run at 350 degrees and I worked UP to that level.
By starting high and working your way down is not gonna give you the best results. Good luck.

BTW 1.0 OHM is sub ohm territory. 0.15 ohm is deep into it,
can't go much lower. Cheers.

I'm so confused, are the 1.0 ohm TC because I thought TC only come in .15?

 

[Maria S.]

Lol nice!!!

 

[dcfluegel]

I'm so confused, are the 1.0 ohm TC because I thought TC only come in .15?

typically, Ni200 coils are in the .15 ohm range

keep in mind ohm/subohm and TC are two different categories, in essence (apples and orangutans) - ohm/subohm simply refers to the resistance rating on the coil (.15 in this case)... TC refers to whether a coil (specifically, a wire type) will work in a Temp Control mode on a given mod (some only do Ni, Ti... some do Ni, Ti, SS) based on the mod chip's ability to read resistance fluctuation with temperature change

 

[IMFire3605]

I've tried TC with Ni200, Titanium, and Stainless wire. Out of all the order of best performance and flavor for my tastes were Stainless, then Ni200, and dead last was Titanium (I barely get any flavor with Ti wire for some reason and I've tried every trick in the book building my own, on top of every prefab Ti coil out there, just way to muted for me). Its a trial and error, where I first started there was just basic guidance and very few options on the market as far as gear, first years I suffered through buying this and that until I learned what works for me and what does not, compared to nowadays with the plethora of devices available. I work in a vape shop so even have to tell customers, I can give a general path and description to help them but in the end, everyone's tastes are different, with Variable Voltage/Wattage/Temperature that variable opens up a whole host of notches but best path is start at lowest settings and gradually work your way up.

Leaking issues, yes every tank and atomizer has its issues, fully sealed units would be less issue for leaking, but we have found open/adjustable/rebuildables and host of others work best tbh, once liquid is added to the mix eventually leaking is bound to happen, nature of the beast. Due to my experience, what I call leaking is different than someone just getting into this, to me leaking is literally, get done setting up a device/tank, sit is aside for a few and come back the whole tank is empty and juice all down the mod and on the desk, where condensation collecting in contacts and airholes it is condensation that has drained or accumulated over time due to heating and cooling compounded by humidity. Flooding, there in comes bad seals, barometric pressure increase and decrease, there are a whole host of variables, you just have to learn to troubleshoot them and adjust or fix them. The Kanger Subtank/Toptank line can have its leaking issues due to manufacturer defect (seal tolerances etc, being Kanger mass produces these, more defects will appear), thus far the 2 Subtank plus tanks I own have no leaking issues unless I built the coils or wicked them wrong, the Toptank Mini I have came with a kit and it leaked like a siv until I replaced the seals with much tighter ones. Personal vaporizers are not as plug and play as many try to portray in my experience, all of them require maintenance and upkeep with the occassional troubleshooting and repair a problem if you can, they are electronic devices after all that handle liquids.

The devices you had before you are probably now seeing with a much more powerful device output wise and configurable wise, there is a vast difference, even among same manufacturer, the Kbox mini (Sub-box and Top-box Mini mod itself) is a pretty powerful little mod (50watts Sub-box, 75watts Top-box version), with a higher ramp up power you will heat things up real quickly compared to say in comparison the Top-vod you previously used, 3.7v nominal voltage on the Topvod compared to a mod that can spike initial ramp up to 6volts is almost plus 2/3 the normal output you are used to, so bring down the settings a bit. I also own an Evic VTC Mini myself, and side by side next to the Kbox Mini V2 (top-box version), the extra ability to adjust not only my TC settings but my max wattage on the VTC Mini, I prefer the Evic more in TC mode than the Kbox, straight wattage mode, the Kbox performs better than the VTC Mini. No Kanger does not produce any Titanium Coil heads that I know of, Joyetech does and you might find them for the tank that comes with it be an Ego Mega One, Tron S Tank, Cubis, etc, so you might actually like the Evic better, in that case still keep the Kanger as your fall to backup mod.

Adding correction to @Hitmetwice 1.0ohm is not sub-ohm, 0.99 and below is Sub-ohm (aka below an Ohm), 0.3 to 0.2 is super-sub-ohm, making 0.15ohm extreme-sub-ohm (Ni200 though the range for TC on most mods is 0.05 to 0.5 with Ni200, but to get a 0.5ohm Ni200 single coil mass of wire is just to great and the performance would be anemic, so 0.15 to 0.2 with Ni200 is really the narrow window for best performance)

 

[Maria S.]

typically, Ni200 coils are in the .15 ohm range

keep in mind ohm/subohm and TC are two different categories, in essence (apples and orangutans) - ohm/subohm simply refers to the resistance rating on the coil (.15 in this case)... TC refers to whether a coil (specifically, a wire type) will work in a Temp Control mode on a given mod (some only do Ni, Ti... some do Ni, Ti, SS) based on the mod chip's ability to read resistance fluctuation with temperature change

Ok thanks but I can't figure out why it has a Ti setting if I can't get Ti coils. I can't find them anywhere...Do you know where I can get them? And what about kanthal, that's a TC setting correct?

 

[dcfluegel]

Ok thanks but I can't figure out why it has a Ti setting if I can't get Ti coils. I can't find them anywhere...Do you know where I can get them? And what about kanthal, that's a TC setting correct?

likely because you can use other tanks/ toppers with that mod that do have Ti coils available - you are not simply limited to using only the tank that came with it have not seen any kanger Ti coils either, though, that I recall

kanthal is NOT a TC setting - kanthal is for use in power/ wattage modes only

 

[Maria S.]

I've tried TC with Ni200, Titanium, and Stainless wire. Out of all the order of best performance and flavor for my tastes were Stainless, then Ni200, and dead last was Titanium (I barely get any flavor with Ti wire for some reason and I've tried every trick in the book building my own, on top of every prefab Ti coil out there, just way to muted for me). Its a trial and error, where I first started there was just basic guidance and very few options on the market as far as gear, first years I suffered through buying this and that until I learned what works for me and what does not, compared to nowadays with the plethora of devices available. I work in a vape shop so even have to tell customers, I can give a general path and description to help them but in the end, everyone's tastes are different, with Variable Voltage/Wattage/Temperature that variable opens up a whole host of notches but best path is start at lowest settings and gradually work your way up.

Leaking issues, yes every tank and atomizer has its issues, fully sealed units would be less issue for leaking, but we have found open/adjustable/rebuildables and host of others work best tbh, once liquid is added to the mix eventually leaking is bound to happen, nature of the beast. Due to my experience, what I call leaking is different than someone just getting into this, to me leaking is literally, get done setting up a device/tank, sit is aside for a few and come back the whole tank is empty and juice all down the mod and on the desk, where condensation collecting in contacts and airholes it is condensation that has drained or accumulated over time due to heating and cooling compounded by humidity. Flooding, there in comes bad seals, barometric pressure increase and decrease, there are a whole host of variables, you just have to learn to troubleshoot them and adjust or fix them. The Kanger Subtank/Toptank line can have its leaking issues due to manufacturer defect (seal tolerances etc, being Kanger mass produces these, more defects will appear), thus far the 2 Subtank plus tanks I own have no leaking issues unless I built the coils or wicked them wrong, the Toptank Mini I have came with a kit and it leaked like a siv until I replaced the seals with much tighter ones. Personal vaporizers are not as plug and play as many try to portray in my experience, all of them require maintenance and upkeep with the occassional troubleshooting and repair a problem if you can, they are electronic devices after all that handle liquids.

The devices you had before you are probably now seeing with a much more powerful device output wise and configurable wise, there is a vast difference, even among same manufacturer, the Kbox mini (Sub-box and Top-box Mini mod itself) is a pretty powerful little mod (50watts Sub-box, 75watts Top-box version), with a higher ramp up power you will heat things up real quickly compared to say in comparison the Top-vod you previously used, 3.7v nominal voltage on the Topvod compared to a mod that can spike initial ramp up to 6volts is almost plus 2/3 the normal output you are used to, so bring down the settings a bit. I also own an Evic VTC Mini myself, and side by side next to the Kbox Mini V2 (top-box version), the extra ability to adjust not only my TC settings but my max wattage on the VTC Mini, I prefer the Evic more in TC mode than the Kbox, straight wattage mode, the Kbox performs better than the VTC Mini. No Kanger does not produce any Titanium Coil heads that I know of, Joyetech does and you might find them for the tank that comes with it be an Ego Mega One, Tron S Tank, Cubis, etc, so you might actually like the Evic better, in that case still keep the Kanger as your fall to backup mod.

Adding correction to @Hitmetwice 1.0ohm is not sub-ohm, 0.99 and below is Sub-ohm (aka below an Ohm), 0.3 to 0.2 is super-sub-ohm, making 0.15ohm extreme-sub-ohm (Ni200 though the range for TC on most mods is 0.05 to 0.5 with Ni200, but to get a 0.5ohm Ni200 single coil mass of wire is just to great and the performance would be anemic, so 0.15 to 0.2 with Ni200 is really the narrow window for best performance)

Thanks so much: ) everything you just said makes sense and it is trial and error. I just don't understand why it has a Ti setting and you can't get a Ti coil lol oh well. I have the ego one Vt and I love it. I really am just trying new things out because the 4 years I have been vaping, I have been using kanger Evod and t3s lol and I love them. So now I own 4 TC mods and some box vv/vw mods and I'm just trying to find what I like and you pegged it, I don't think I have ever owned a cleromizer, tank, etc.. that hasn't leaked a little bit. Thanks again

 

[IMFire3605]

The Ti setting is for tanks that offer them, ie the Joyetech Ego Mega One, mod in today's market doesn't much mean modified like before, more along the line of "Modular", so you can take Brand A mod and Brand B tank and put them together. Kanthal and NiChrome wire are more for straight wattage mode, Kanger is experimenting with TC mode with NiChrome (NiCr mode), not very accurate, but functional, Asolo tried making TC for Kanthal with very bad results, and with SS wire coming into the mix, think focus will continue down that avenue for TC development due to SS can run in TC or straight wattage mode, not just one or the other (TC Only Ni200 and Titanium, or Wattage/Power Mode Only Kanthal and NiChrome)

 

[Maria S.]

likely because you can use other tanks/ toppers with that mod that do have Ti coils available - you are not simply limited to using only the tank that came with it have not seen any kanger Ti coils either, though, that I recall

kanthal is NOT a TC setting - kanthal is for use in power/ wattage modes only

Do you think I can use my joytech ego one tank on it? Or should I stick with kanger tanks? I have a Cl 2.0 kanger tank and It won't work on any of my batteries or mods. I have done so much research and you tube that my head is spinning lol

 

[Maria S.]

The Ti setting is for tanks that offer them, ie the Joyetech Ego Mega One, mod in today's market doesn't much mean modified like before, more along the line of "Modular", so you can take Brand A mod and Brand B tank and put them together. Kanthal and NiChrome wire are more for straight wattage mode, Kanger is experimenting with TC mode with NiChrome (NiCr mode), not very accurate, but functional, Asolo tried making TC for Kanthal with very bad results, and with SS wire coming into the mix, think focus will continue down that avenue for TC development due to SS can run in TC or straight wattage mode, not just one or the other (TC Only Ni200 and Titanium, or Wattage/Power Mode Only Kanthal and NiChrome)

Ok do you think I can put my joytech ego one Vt on the top box or no?

 

[IMFire3605]

Yes, most definitely. 510 connections are pretty universal for battery to atomizer. Just remember what coil you have in it, Ni mode for Ni, Ti mode for Ti, SS Mode for Stainless Steel, NiCr mode is rudimentary TC mode for NiChrome though Kanthal can work in this mode, about the only benefit I've found on my Kbox 200 and Kbox Mini V2 (top-box kbox mini version) is to reduce chance of burning my wicking so just set my mod for wattage mode for Kanthal and NiChrome.

 

[Maria S.]

Yes, most definitely. 510 connections are pretty universal for battery to atomizer. Just remember what coil you have in it, Ni mode for Ni, Ti mode for Ti, SS Mode for Stainless Steel, NiCr mode is rudimentary TC mode for NiChrome though Kanthal can work in this mode, about the only benefit I've found on my Kbox 200 and Kbox Mini V2 (top-box kbox mini version) is to reduce chance of burning my wicking so just set my mod for wattage mode for Kanthal and NiChrome.

Ok got it!! You have been very helpful, thanks again

 

[daviedog]

Ok thanks but I can't figure out why it has a Ti setting if I can't get Ti coils. I can't find them anywhere...Do you know where I can get them? And what about kanthal, that's a TC setting correct?

NO!

 

[daviedog]

Not being able to adjust ramp up in TC is a terrible handicap. Your best workaround is to use SS316 coils.
75 watts is Hot, don't bother with the other wires. Ni tastes poor. Ti could have emission issues at high temps.
Don't worry about temp accuracy, since is not measuring the temp/per say. Resistant coefficients..