GG stealth prototype

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Maz

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Maz, I cant do it, its almost impossible

Almost? ;)

No matter Imeo, I'm just happy I managed to get one, they all went in a few minutes. I'm sure I'll love it and if I can't get on with the brass there are always options, in fact I have a sneaky plan in mind already :p

Tell me something though, do the GGTS base plates, or bottom caps whatever they're called come in stainless or are they all brass or nickel?
 
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Maz

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He has said that they are too hard/costly to machine in SS I believe.......:)

Oh, the bottom caps? Thanks, so they are only available in brass or nickel then..It's fine, one door closes another opens.. I have an idea :evil:

Christ I must be crazy, it's not even in my hands yet and I'm working out the modifications already :laugh:
 

atavanhalen

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Almost? ;)

No matter Imeo, I'm just happy I managed to get one, they all went in a few minutes. I'm sure I'll love it and if I can't get on with the brass there are always options, in fact I have a sneaky plan in mind already :p

Tell me something though, do the GGTS base plates, or bottom caps whatever they're called come in stainless or are they all brass or nickel?

they only come in brass and there may be some nickel plated ones floating around, in case you do not know, the stealth is literally the bottom portion of a ggts with a rethreader and different cap. Sorry if you know that, just didt think you would ask about the bottom caps of the ggts if you did because they are the same bottom caps as the stealth.

edit: I am curious to know what your up to though.
 

Major

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Finally, something I know a little (very little) about! :lol: You have been told now that the base plates are all brass or nickel plated aluminum or brass Maz. The "almost impossible" comes from the nature of stainless steel. The corrosion resistence that makes it so appealing is due to the chromium content. That same chrome content makes stainless feather or tear when machined.

The particles from a machining process with normal carbon steel has residue as well but most falls away or can be blown/vacuumed away during the machining process. Stainless on the other hand is almost like glue as far as particles sticking to each other and the piece being machined.

That's why in the manufacture of stainless items such as weapons or any other component that has stainless contacting other stainless, different grades of it are used to prevent the galling or seizing effect. The greater the heat generated from the friction of the process or post machining, in normal use, the greater the tendency to stick to itself. Example would be a 400 series stainless for a pistol. 410 slide with a 440 frame is dissimilar enough to drastically reduce the tendency to stick to itself although the heat from the 2 pieces sliding against each other is considerable.

That cannot be avoided in machining and as particles build up from the heat of the machining process, it affects both the stainless itself and the equipment being used to work with it. Depending on the complexity of the design being machined, whether by hand or these days by CNC milling machines, this buildup of stainless can and does make many small precision pieces almost cost prohibitive to make (unless you're a government or government supported manufacturer ;)).
 
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Maz

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they only come in brass and there may be some nickel plated ones floating around, in case you do not know, the stealth is literally the bottom portion of a ggts with a rethreader and different cap. Sorry if you know that, just didt think you would ask about the bottom caps of the ggts if you did because they are the same bottom caps as the stealth.

Yeah I knew the stealth was basically the bottom of the GGTS with a female to female adapter and a top cap, I asked about GGTS end caps instead of purely stealth ones because I wanted an answer that would cover all add-ons, spares etc. from across the board rather than getting a reply of just 'stealth caps are brass' if you know what I mean?

I've given up on the idea of a stainless top cap now, I had by the time Imeo posted his reply but no matter I have another idea that'll sort me out.

I just wanted to check about the bottom caps before I did anything, as you've probably gathered I know virtually nothing about GGs so they're genuine questions to the more informed, I'm not trying to be funny about it. I see pics of silver coloured bottom caps on the GGTS and just wanted to know if they were stainless or nickel plate - I now have my answer..

I am curious to know what your up to though.

It'll take me a little while but I'll post a pic when it's finished, I have a certain look in mind ;) I don't own a mod I haven't put my own stamp on and this won't be any different..

Thanks for the replies guys.. :)
 
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fright88

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Finally, something I know a little (very little) about! :lol: You have been told now that the base plates are all brass or nickel plated aluminum or brass Maz. The "almost impossible" comes from the nature of stainless steel. The corrosion resistence that makes it so appealing is due to the chromium content. That same chrome content makes stainless feather or tear when machined.

The particles from a machining process with normal carbon steel has residue as well but most falls away or can be blown/vacuumed away during the machining process. Stainless on the other hand is almost like glue as far as particles sticking to each other and the piece being machined.

That's why in the manufacture of stainless items such as weapons or any other component that has stainless contacting other stainless, different grades of it are used to prevent the galling or seizing effect. The greater the heat generated from the friction of the process or post machining, in normal use, the greater the tendency to stick to itself. Example would be a 400 series stainless for a pistol. 410 slide with a 440 frame is dissimilar enough to drastically reduce the tendency to stick to itself although the heat from the 2 pieces sliding against each other is considerable.

That cannot be avoided in machining and as particles build up from the heat of the machining process, it affects both the stainless itself and the equipment being used to work with it. Depending on the complexity of the design being machined, whether by hand or these days by CNC milling machines, this buildup of stainless can and does make many small precision pieces almost cost prohibitive to make (unless you're a government or government supported manufacturer ;)).

I love posts like this. Thanks
 

Maz

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I would be interested to see what you have done with other mods as well as what you have planned for you stealth. We have already seen some pretty awesome customization of GG's here, I always like to see what others have done.

Hmmm, I am not claiming to be a custom master or anything, I just like to put my mark on stuff I own. Make it how I like it to look etc. I have seen some pretty amazing looking GGs and I won't be able or trying to compete, for me it's just personal pleasure, if I'm going to walk around all day with something welded to my hand I want to be happy with it. I'm also just learning how to do stuff, I never claimed to be good but here's a couple of efforts I posted up..

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/cosmetic-mods/194700-44-snubnose-screwdriver.html#post3380403

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/super-t-manufacturing/183769-i-think-im-gonna-get-crucified.html#post3112551

I don't go overboard and mainly shorten stuff, removing any space I see as 'wasted' The P16 was originally 74mm long and is now shorter again than in that thread, it's 65mm now and finished, I won't do any more to it now. The Screwdriver lost 24mm in length.
I'll probably try to take a few mm off the stealth but otherwise what I have in mind is mainly cosmetic and not drastic, also mostly reversable.
 

Maz

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Maz, exellent work!!!!!

I told you again that I dont waste any space on GG series. There is no way to remove even 1mm from GGTS or stealth. But I am very courious to see what you will do:)

Thanks for the compliment Imeo, I know they don't belong in here and wouldn't have posted them but they were asked for.
I am also not trying to say I can 'improve' the stealth as I am absolutely certain I can't, I'll just do a couple of bits to it to make it less like somebody elses Stealth, as I am a bit OCD like that :laugh:
 

Rick.45cal

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Finally, something I know a little (very little) about! :lol: You have been told now that the base plates are all brass or nickel plated aluminum or brass Maz. The "almost impossible" comes from the nature of stainless steel. The corrosion resistence that makes it so appealing is due to the chromium content. That same chrome content makes stainless feather or tear when machined.

The particles from a machining process with normal carbon steel has residue as well but most falls away or can be blown/vacuumed away during the machining process. Stainless on the other hand is almost like glue as far as particles sticking to each other and the piece being machined.

That's why in the manufacture of stainless items such as weapons or any other component that has stainless contacting other stainless, different grades of it are used to prevent the galling or seizing effect. The greater the heat generated from the friction of the process or post machining, in normal use, the greater the tendency to stick to itself. Example would be a 400 series stainless for a pistol. 410 slide with a 440 frame is dissimilar enough to drastically reduce the tendency to stick to itself although the heat from the 2 pieces sliding against each other is considerable.

That cannot be avoided in machining and as particles build up from the heat of the machining process, it affects both the stainless itself and the equipment being used to work with it. Depending on the complexity of the design being machined, whether by hand or these days by CNC milling machines, this buildup of stainless can and does make many small precision pieces almost cost prohibitive to make (unless you're a government or government supported manufacturer ;)).

BRAVO!!! You also can't forget that the machines to accurately machine stainless (or other tool steels) must be much more rigid, i.e. more mass. Mass equals money in the machining business, Heavy machines carry a heavy price tag, and they only make money when they are running. Stopping and retooling a large lathe or mill is money lost. The tooling to machine tool steels is extremely expensive. Add to the fact that the tooling must be more robust, your increasing the cost even further.

Tool and die making is extremely expensive. Especially for small runs of parts. Change overs cost money. A running machine makes money, one in down time costs money.

Imeo, you have quite a gift for organizing something like GG, and keeping it affordable so us serfs can afford them :lol:
 

silentt

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I just took a couple for you and a drip shield

2li7ml1.jpg
 

wfarrar33

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just got my HH 1.5 today. It is definitely a nice atty. Worth $20....... not sure i guess that will depend on longevity

I'm really enjoying it with a HH.357 1.5ohm, it's hitting the spot nicely :)


also my drip shield fits perfect on there without an adapter, i'm enjoying it
 
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