GG Talk!

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JthaBigVapor

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Smitty, I tried to find my old post on button solutions but I dunno where it went off to.

So here it is again.

Here is another idea to try:

Your button may be loose.

First: Have some pliers ready, padded, if not be gental....

Second, depress the button, while holding the button between your fingers.

Third, Take your pliers and CAREFULLY grab the pin of the button that would extend to make the connection when pressed. Make sure to grip the hexagonal bottom then CAREFULLY turn the top of the button head until tight, while gripping the pin.

Often times when the button is loose inside the button housing tightening it up in this way will stop the "hot button" as you called it.

I have had this issue before and thie solution ALWAYS fixed the problem for me, as the buttons do loosen over time.

It always turned out that because the pin was loose only a portion of the pin makes contact with the axis post. The gap left from only one part of the pin making contact will cause the mod to fire improperly and your button will heat up due to this short. This will also cause the carbon build up that the link posted by erich talks about cleaning up.

I hope this helps too, it is often something that is over looked.
 

mrgoodwrench2u

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Hey , I had the same switch problems , loose , gets hot , don't fire , man I had just got this thing in the mail and I was not very happy with the SS GGTS.

Well I talked to a well GG seasoned friend and he said use the brass switch pin , tighten it real good , and sand off any black spots on the bottom cap pin with very fine sand paper , like 600 to a 1000 grit .

That fixed everything, I have not had any problems since. No more hot button , button don't get loose , and it always fires , every time.
The brass fireing pin is much better than the ss fireing pin.

Just my thoughts. Best Wishes !!!!! :thumbs: :vapor:
 

anavidfan

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So I just read one of the posts above, I just got a crazy thought, if all the replacement parts for the Iatty 2 are for sale, could I buy the parts and build it myself? Is there a list of all the parts and am I crazy, (yes) it would probably cost more than buying one used.

Or should I just wait for the Ithika. I suppose there will be a post when the Ithika goes up for presale?
 

Ratman

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Newly interested in the GGTS and a couple of questions. This seems to be the right place to ask, I hope. What does the current $220 version that CoV sells look like? Is it just like the pic on the website? If so, then how does one get brass accents for it, like a bottom cap, top cap, button and middle tube?

(I know it will be a long time before they are available.)

Also, I am not real clear on how the Ody attaches to the ggts. Does it replace the top cap or screw onto it or??

I see so many parts and so many comments about repairs and maintenance with the gg's. Is it because people just use them to death or is it a brilliant but high maintenance apv?
 

keighles

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Newly interested in the GGTS and a couple of questions. This seems to be the right place to ask, I hope. What does the current $220 version that CoV sells look like? Is it just like the pic on the website? If so, then how does one get brass accents for it, like a bottom cap, top cap, button and middle tube?

(I know it will be a long time before they are available.)

Also, I am not real clear on how the Ody attaches to the ggts. Does it replace the top cap or screw onto it or??

I see so many parts and so many comments repairs and maintenance with the gg's. Is it because people just use them to death or is it a brilliant but high maintenance apv?

Hey Ratman,
It looks just like the picture on the web site. To get the brass accents on it you can try to get the "COV" edition, but Imeo is not making the brass connector any longer after the next batch. But other brass parts will be available on the site under GGTS parts.
The Ody can either be attached with the 510 base and a combination of adapters. but the best way is using the GGTS adapter, that replaces the 510 base. then unscrewing the control ring and putting the ody in its place.

Finally,
There are a lot of parts and pieces. The GG line is a very well built PV. in my experience very low maintenance and haven't had to repair anything. Mostly constructed of Stainless Steel. About the only things I have had to replace are the springs and orings.

Most people like to keep them shiny and new looking, so polishing and buffing can become almost obsessive and or compulsive.
I have 3 right now, waiting on my 4 and 5. You can not go wrong with getting yourself a GG.

Oh yeah, keep an eye on this thread and the web site at the end of October through the beginning of November. A large pre-order was placed. but I am sure there will be extras on the GGTS.
You also may find a good deal on the Classifieds, but they go quickly.
 
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Killjoy1

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Yep, what you see in the pic is what you get. The brass accents used to be a separate entry on the shop site labeled "CoV edition". I had to buy my brass parts separately (at the time, brass bottom cap and brass top adjustable draw lid were standard so all I needed to buy were brass telescope tube and connector, but I think those first two pieces I mention are now SS on the stock setup).

Ody can attach in a couple of ways. With the GGTS base for it, it attaches in place of the adjustable draw lid (the very top piece) and makes for a solid fit with full use of the air control feature. With just the regular 510 base you have to use adapters (see the wiki for pics of possible combinations, some will allow for air control while others won't). The connector on the GGTS is down inside the collector tank (the top section) and the adjustable draw lid on top seals around your atty/carto so you can use the adjustable draw feature. Check the wiki for all the details on the parts and how they go together: Golden Greek - E-Cigarette Wiki A lot of good info on there and Zoranth's exploded diagrams have proven quite useful to many of us

On the maintenance thing, yeah it is a higher maintenance mod than most. You need to keep all your contact points between parts clean for good conductivity and o-rings do wear out over time. Exterior polishing is optional, depends on how shiny you want to keep it (I hope some of the die-hards don't see that statement :p)
 

Ratman

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Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks very much Keighles. I had seen a picture somewhere on here where some one asked if it was what the cov version looked like and it was exactly what I would like to get. But then I saw something different on the website. I didn't know there was a special edition so it makes perfect sense now. Same with the Ody mount, makes sens now that I know there are two different ways to attach it.

thanks again.

edit: just took a look again and hurts doubly bad that I missed out on the cov edition. that thing is perfect in my eyes. What should I expect to pay for one used assuming one ever even goes up for sale? And just to clarify, was the advance order that went in last month for the cov version? Wondering if there might be some of them in the extras you mention to look for or of they will be the standard pictured.
 
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