GG Tilemahos V2 and Penelope V4 mini official thread
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Ah, sorry and thank you Aal!
champing ohms? Screw well all the parts on your atomizer. Use pliers for the center post and for the negative and positive pin. Thats how I assemble the units. And screw well the wire to the pins when you make a new coil.
champing ohms? Screw well all the parts on your atomizer. Use pliers for the center post and for the negative and positive pin. Thats how I assemble the units. And screw well the wire to the pins when you make a new coil.
Well, since I screwed the centre pin in hard, I've not seen any unexpected changes in resistance. I thought I'd done that this morning when I first had the trouble, but once I've vaped this tank dry, I'll strip everything down and make certain that nothing is at all loose.
I really want to get on with the Tilemahos and temperature control. I'm essentially a lazy vaper these days: I just want the same vape every time I press the button until I either have to refill, change the battery or change the wick or coil.
I really want to get on with the Tilemahos and temperature control. I'm essentially a lazy vaper these days: I just want the same vape every time I press the button until I either have to refill, change the battery or change the wick or coil.
I was thinking about the jumping ohms, I have never had the "jumping ohms" problem with any of my Tilemahos, but there are some things it is important to check:
Properly tightened center pin.
Check that the positive and negative posts are not loose, it could happen they become loose after a coil replacement (while unscrewing the small screws to remove an old coil, for example).
I have seen that many do not remove the small center post extension (adjustable center pin) after the rebuildable part is removed: they leave the extension inside the 510 connector.
When disassembling my Tilemahos, I always remove the center post extension and screw it in the center post before installing the rebuildable part into the base.
I have never needed to unscrew the center post extension to adjust how much it protrudes, as when the rebuildable part it is fully screwed the center pint extension protrudes enough to make contact.
Properly tightened rebuildable part into the base.
The screws securing the coil could loosen up a little while tweaking the coil.
When disassembling the rebuildable part internals, always clean the inner bottom part of the housing and the negative base, as those two parts should make good contact.
Clean the threads on the 510 connector (mod and atomizer) and the 510 positive pin in the mod.
Properly tightened center pin.
Check that the positive and negative posts are not loose, it could happen they become loose after a coil replacement (while unscrewing the small screws to remove an old coil, for example).
I have seen that many do not remove the small center post extension (adjustable center pin) after the rebuildable part is removed: they leave the extension inside the 510 connector.
When disassembling my Tilemahos, I always remove the center post extension and screw it in the center post before installing the rebuildable part into the base.
I have never needed to unscrew the center post extension to adjust how much it protrudes, as when the rebuildable part it is fully screwed the center pint extension protrudes enough to make contact.
Properly tightened rebuildable part into the base.
The screws securing the coil could loosen up a little while tweaking the coil.
When disassembling the rebuildable part internals, always clean the inner bottom part of the housing and the negative base, as those two parts should make good contact.
Clean the threads on the 510 connector (mod and atomizer) and the 510 positive pin in the mod.
I confirm @grizewald, same for me, Tilemahos is not suitable for (accurate) TC use. Much easier to notice it with SS wire. A bit better with the the Springomizer but still not accurate. As we all know, the way the actual TC operates, perfect resistance reading is needed, thus making the atom inappropriate.
DNA200's "atomizer analyzer" tool is reporting (for my two Tilemahos v2+) a resistance of 0.075 Ω with copper wire, with atom in short. The same on my 2 TIlemahos v2+, both on my VaporShark DNA200 and Hcigar VT200 (yes, same chip but different internal components).
As it should be with good connections (sample), the atomizer analyzer tool is reporting a perfectly stable 0.008 Ω with Kayfun, Calix, Ubertoot, when shorted the same way with copper wire.
@imeo, I'm trying all way around with the TIlemahos v2+ since weeks, no way to use it in TC so far, at least in a stable way. Tightening posts, screws, pin screwed/unscrewed, no way. It works few minutes, sometimes, most of the time will not. Also Escribe software confirm this when I have my BBox connected checking in deep what is going on.
I'm sure you'll investigate on this and you'll find a solution after reading few users reporting issues in TC mode. With the atom in short, there is no need to check if the coil have been correctly wrapped. Tilemahos is my favorite atomizer at the moment and I'm really sorry I'm not able to use it in TC mode.
I believe the main "problem" is the center pin connections structure with too many connections and little threads:
and the adjustable pin, not being really stable.
With some tin foil inserted inside the adjustable pin the situation is sometimes better, but still not reliable, thus not advisable to rely on TC when using Tilemahos, as it is now.
I would also appreciate if somebody else with DNA200 could report the atom resistance with the atom in short.
DNA200's "atomizer analyzer" tool is reporting (for my two Tilemahos v2+) a resistance of 0.075 Ω with copper wire, with atom in short. The same on my 2 TIlemahos v2+, both on my VaporShark DNA200 and Hcigar VT200 (yes, same chip but different internal components).
As it should be with good connections (sample), the atomizer analyzer tool is reporting a perfectly stable 0.008 Ω with Kayfun, Calix, Ubertoot, when shorted the same way with copper wire.
@imeo, I'm trying all way around with the TIlemahos v2+ since weeks, no way to use it in TC so far, at least in a stable way. Tightening posts, screws, pin screwed/unscrewed, no way. It works few minutes, sometimes, most of the time will not. Also Escribe software confirm this when I have my BBox connected checking in deep what is going on.
I'm sure you'll investigate on this and you'll find a solution after reading few users reporting issues in TC mode. With the atom in short, there is no need to check if the coil have been correctly wrapped. Tilemahos is my favorite atomizer at the moment and I'm really sorry I'm not able to use it in TC mode.
I believe the main "problem" is the center pin connections structure with too many connections and little threads:
and the adjustable pin, not being really stable.
With some tin foil inserted inside the adjustable pin the situation is sometimes better, but still not reliable, thus not advisable to rely on TC when using Tilemahos, as it is now.
I would also appreciate if somebody else with DNA200 could report the atom resistance with the atom in short.
Lord, Tilemahos is the most stable atomizer on TC mode because it doesnt have moving parts or springs. Maybe your issue comes from AD pin because its dirty or because of loosy connections. So please clean the threads of center post extension and as I said before screw well to the center post with pliers. Also screw well the pins with pliers too. Τhere is a reason that I screw well with pliers these 3 pieces.
I use Tilemahos on VIR for 4 years now and its always more than stable. Same results every time.
In your video, the AD pin is moving as all pieces on all constructions in the world that are connected with threads but they are not fully screwed. But when the atomizer is screwed to the mod, the pin gets pushed and the connection is the right one.
I believe that your Tilemahos has a problem but I cant find it from here. You can send it to me if you like to check it
I use Tilemahos on VIR for 4 years now and its always more than stable. Same results every time.
In your video, the AD pin is moving as all pieces on all constructions in the world that are connected with threads but they are not fully screwed. But when the atomizer is screwed to the mod, the pin gets pushed and the connection is the right one.
I believe that your Tilemahos has a problem but I cant find it from here. You can send it to me if you like to check it
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Never mind.
Yes, it is the most stable atomizer in the world for TC.
My 2 Tilemahos, are cleaned in ultrasonic every week FYI> Tight connections as possible as I already specified.
Since tech explination was not enough (copper wire + DNA200 is the key), let's post a video in a "noob way" maybe is more clear.
Super clean Tilemahos v2+ vs dirty KayFun 3.1ES, in a noob way.
Yes, both of my Tilemahos may have problem. Also with springomizer.
Send them back to you? Maybe, why not if is the most stable atom in the world in TC. But please, let me know if you can try to short and measure some of your Tilemahos with copper + DNA200 and post the results, first.
Thank you Imeo, much appreciated.
Lord my friend, I saw on both videos that you screw and unscrew the atomizers. That really proves that Tilemahos (because of its AD pin) doesnt make a good connection when its not fully screwed. Thats more than logical. Noone would expect something different. AD pin was made to be adjustable but Tilemahos as all atomizers have to be screwed the right way on the mod to make a good connection. If you provide a loosy connection then yes it will not make a good contact. Thats why we say that all connections must be tight on TC mode. So you simply try to measure the conductivity of atomizers in the wrong way.
If you try Tilemahos V1 that has a steady pin, then your results (the way you do this experiment) will be steady, even if your connection with the mod is loosy. But with a loosy connection you cant really measure anything. Loosy connections on electricity experiments are never reliable and must not be done that way
If you try Tilemahos V1 that has a steady pin, then your results (the way you do this experiment) will be steady, even if your connection with the mod is loosy. But with a loosy connection you cant really measure anything. Loosy connections on electricity experiments are never reliable and must not be done that way
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Imeo, the box doesn't have a fixed pin and unscrewing more the tilemahos pin making a "good contact" it is even worst LOL (it is making a good contact with the box anyway, do I have to write it? Really do I?). Please make a (real) test before suggesting me what is logical or not (hey not a noob here). I'm not testing your atomizer since weeks in TC with the help of such an advanced chip as DNA200 to post here a report and read "clean the atom, unscrew the pin, tight your screws". A reply like "thank you for reporting this, I'll better investigate and get back to you" would have been far better IMHO. Imeo did you ever try TC?
As I said, never mind. I'm going to forget the Tilemahos and stop wasting my time since it is not suitable for TC.
As I said, never mind. I'm going to forget the Tilemahos and stop wasting my time since it is not suitable for TC.
Lord, first of all I would like you to not be angry without a reason. We are talking here I suppose
If the box mod you use doesnt have a fixed pin, at least it has to have a strong spring to push atomizers the right way. If it cant do that then this mod is capable only with atomizers with fixed pin.
Now, when you unscrew the atomizers on this mod, you stop the good negative connection, because base of the atomizer doesnt touch the connector of the mod, so the negative connection is based only on the 510 threads. Thats NOT a good connection.
If there was something to investigate, I would do it. But I have done a lot more experiments than you for 4 years, especially on VIR with Tilemahos and other GG atomizers with no issues.
Sorry if my posts made you angry but I am trying to tell you that experiments have to be done the right way. Also, if you want to use Tilemahos on this box mod that doesnt really make good contact because of its moving pin, better use the steady pin on Tilemahos. But be sure that your problems come from the AD pin of your mod (because of the spring maybe that has inside) and not from the AD pin of Tilemahos that doesnt have spring and it can make a very solid connection if it pushed the right way from the mod.
I am trying to point you to the right direction rather than looking good to your eyes. That way you will get the right info. Leaving you blind is not what you need from me
If the box mod you use doesnt have a fixed pin, at least it has to have a strong spring to push atomizers the right way. If it cant do that then this mod is capable only with atomizers with fixed pin.
Now, when you unscrew the atomizers on this mod, you stop the good negative connection, because base of the atomizer doesnt touch the connector of the mod, so the negative connection is based only on the 510 threads. Thats NOT a good connection.
If there was something to investigate, I would do it. But I have done a lot more experiments than you for 4 years, especially on VIR with Tilemahos and other GG atomizers with no issues.
Sorry if my posts made you angry but I am trying to tell you that experiments have to be done the right way. Also, if you want to use Tilemahos on this box mod that doesnt really make good contact because of its moving pin, better use the steady pin on Tilemahos. But be sure that your problems come from the AD pin of your mod (because of the spring maybe that has inside) and not from the AD pin of Tilemahos that doesnt have spring and it can make a very solid connection if it pushed the right way from the mod.
I am trying to point you to the right direction rather than looking good to your eyes. That way you will get the right info. Leaving you blind is not what you need from me
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Thank you but I know what a spring is, how it works with connections when expanded/restricted and I also know how to assure good contacts from the box to the atom and viceversa. I'm not even try using KF4, for example.
I'm not angry, I want to report the obvious issues using this atomizer with TC, writing my original post, hoping you consider making a future update with better connection, listening who's reporting issues. In reply I got "Tilemahos is the most stable atomizer in TC". Sorry but I have to say: LOL. Tilemahos is absolutely the only atomizer within 4 atomizers I cannot use in TC. It's a fact.
it is just unacceptable getting this kind of replies from you. Now you're even telling me the BBox (I'm testing with 2 BBoxes BTW, mmm 3 with Evic VTC mini but is not good enough for real tests) is not making a good contact. You should also explain why with other atomizers the resistance reading is perfect and the TC works flawlessy since the BBox, in your opinion, is making bad contact.
Come on, I think I'm poitinig you in the right direction.
A new update with better connections maybe? Please test the Tilemahos in the right way for TC usage and get back to me. I kindly advise you to test with the actual most accurate chip available as it is DNA200 so far, also with different wires. But... start with copper. Shorting the atomizer will be a good and unchallengeable start. In this way there is no need to be a coil master, believe me. (btw I also tested at least 15 different setups on tilemahos to find the perfect vape since the airhole is to far away from the coil and to close in springomizer, but this is another story, at least for "normal vapers" using 2mm-2.5mm coil at 13W-15W).
And yes, of course Tilemahos is working perfectly on VW mode or with mech mod. I'm not telling it is not working.
But, unfortunately, the actual TC needs perfect connections for the right calculations = for TC working as it shoud work.
Now, since I have not been clear enough, (or maybe you do not want to understand) please, forget the videos for a moment. and let's talk about real data:
- 4 different atomizers
- each atomizer shorted with copper wire
- same BBox connected to DNA200 escribe software for fine resistance reading
- Results of internal resistance (mod already fine calibrated):
-- Tilemahos 0.075Ω
-- Kayfun 3.1ES: 0.008Ω
-- Calix: 0.008Ω
-- Ubertoot v2: 0.008Ω
- Same test with different BBOX but with same DNA200 chip (mod already fine calibrated):
-- Tilemahos 0.075Ω
-- Kayfun 3.1ES: 0.008Ω
-- Calix: 0.008Ω
-- Ubertoot v2: 0.008Ω
Now, let's get back to the posted videos;
Tilemahos is continuously changing the coil resistance when attached to the box with TC able wires. You can see it (videos with SS wire) when I unscrew the atomizer and screw it back, different resistance reading (but the pin is the same position and also the atomizer is exactly in the same original position) and continuos resistance reading jumping (jumping values too high). Absolutely not good for TC usage. And escribe graphs is also confirming the TC is not working properly. Unscrewing the Tilemahos pin or completely screwing it makes no difference in this way, the TC cannot correctly calculate the coil temperature.
Again in the video, Kayfun is perfect (resistance reading just moving a littlebit as it should be and definetly most stable), and DNA200 chip also works perfectly on TC being perfectly able to calculate the coil resistance. Once again escribe graphs confirm this.
VaporShark DNA200 pin is great, compared to Hcigar VT200 pin. Both pins are good but the VaporShark pin is more rigid and with a shorter stroke.
Please reconsider the fact I'm not the blind in this situation after countless tests I made with your atomizer, with the right tools, with the basic measures as making sure the atom is clean, tight screws and deck parts, and also trying extra connection within parts trying to get stable resistance with TC able wires.
In conclusion, Imeo, I'm just reporting as a user after few deep tests (and clean atomizer LOL). It's up to you updating the tilemahos with better connections. There are tons of atomizers available out there.
I'm not angry, I want to report the obvious issues using this atomizer with TC, writing my original post, hoping you consider making a future update with better connection, listening who's reporting issues. In reply I got "Tilemahos is the most stable atomizer in TC". Sorry but I have to say: LOL. Tilemahos is absolutely the only atomizer within 4 atomizers I cannot use in TC. It's a fact.
it is just unacceptable getting this kind of replies from you. Now you're even telling me the BBox (I'm testing with 2 BBoxes BTW, mmm 3 with Evic VTC mini but is not good enough for real tests) is not making a good contact. You should also explain why with other atomizers the resistance reading is perfect and the TC works flawlessy since the BBox, in your opinion, is making bad contact.
Come on, I think I'm poitinig you in the right direction.
A new update with better connections maybe? Please test the Tilemahos in the right way for TC usage and get back to me. I kindly advise you to test with the actual most accurate chip available as it is DNA200 so far, also with different wires. But... start with copper. Shorting the atomizer will be a good and unchallengeable start. In this way there is no need to be a coil master, believe me. (btw I also tested at least 15 different setups on tilemahos to find the perfect vape since the airhole is to far away from the coil and to close in springomizer, but this is another story, at least for "normal vapers" using 2mm-2.5mm coil at 13W-15W).
And yes, of course Tilemahos is working perfectly on VW mode or with mech mod. I'm not telling it is not working.
But, unfortunately, the actual TC needs perfect connections for the right calculations = for TC working as it shoud work.
Now, since I have not been clear enough, (or maybe you do not want to understand) please, forget the videos for a moment. and let's talk about real data:
- 4 different atomizers
- each atomizer shorted with copper wire
- same BBox connected to DNA200 escribe software for fine resistance reading
- Results of internal resistance (mod already fine calibrated):
-- Tilemahos 0.075Ω
-- Kayfun 3.1ES: 0.008Ω
-- Calix: 0.008Ω
-- Ubertoot v2: 0.008Ω
- Same test with different BBOX but with same DNA200 chip (mod already fine calibrated):
-- Tilemahos 0.075Ω
-- Kayfun 3.1ES: 0.008Ω
-- Calix: 0.008Ω
-- Ubertoot v2: 0.008Ω
Now, let's get back to the posted videos;
Tilemahos is continuously changing the coil resistance when attached to the box with TC able wires. You can see it (videos with SS wire) when I unscrew the atomizer and screw it back, different resistance reading (but the pin is the same position and also the atomizer is exactly in the same original position) and continuos resistance reading jumping (jumping values too high). Absolutely not good for TC usage. And escribe graphs is also confirming the TC is not working properly. Unscrewing the Tilemahos pin or completely screwing it makes no difference in this way, the TC cannot correctly calculate the coil temperature.
Again in the video, Kayfun is perfect (resistance reading just moving a littlebit as it should be and definetly most stable), and DNA200 chip also works perfectly on TC being perfectly able to calculate the coil resistance. Once again escribe graphs confirm this.
VaporShark DNA200 pin is great, compared to Hcigar VT200 pin. Both pins are good but the VaporShark pin is more rigid and with a shorter stroke.
Please reconsider the fact I'm not the blind in this situation after countless tests I made with your atomizer, with the right tools, with the basic measures as making sure the atom is clean, tight screws and deck parts, and also trying extra connection within parts trying to get stable resistance with TC able wires.
In conclusion, Imeo, I'm just reporting as a user after few deep tests (and clean atomizer LOL). It's up to you updating the tilemahos with better connections. There are tons of atomizers available out there.
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"Tilemahos is absolutely the only atomizer within 4 atomizers I cannot use in TC. It's a fact"
Lord, maybe you didnt read exactly well my post above. Let me tell you again that the simple solution for YOUR mod is to put on Tilemahos its solid pin. As you see Tilemahos give you solutions for every mod, something that you cant easily find elesewhere
"it is just unacceptable getting this kind of replies from you"
I thought that you wanted to learn, not just posting your results.
"Now you're even telling me the BBox (I'm testing with 2 BBoxes BTW, mmm 3 with Evic VTC mini but is not good enough for real tests) is not making a good contact. You should also explain why with other atomizers the resistance reading is perfect and the TC works flawlessy since the BBox, in your opinion, is making bad contact"
But I explained to you in my previous post Lord. So, you have 2 simple solutions: Put the solid pin on Tilemahos or change your mod with one that doesnt have AD pin. AD pins on mods are a pain on TC, thats why I am thinking of putting a solid pin on Proteus rather than its moving pin.
"A new update with better connections maybe?"
Βut we cant improve the solid connections Lord
"unfortunately, the actual TC needs perfect connections"
We agree, thats why I said before that your atomizer has to be tight on your mod.
Finally we dont disagree Lord. The issue here is that you miss the small detail witch is:
perfect connection is done only via a solid pin on atomizer and a solid pin on mod. Nothing of these things exist on your configuration with Tilemahos but one of them exist on your other configurations (kayfun, etc).
What you can do? 1. Put solid pin on Tilemahos or 2. Put Tilemahos on another mod without AD pin or 3. Do both of the above for the best results you ever had on a TC "situation"
ps....... Why Tilemahos reads different resistances when you unscrew it and screw it back again on mod? Because its AD pin sits in different position every time. If you dont do that then there is no jumbing ohms and your video proves that. And you dont really have to do that while vaping. But what if you like doing that while vaping? Then change your mod or the pin of Tilemahos.
I hope that I made myself clear this time
Lord, maybe you didnt read exactly well my post above. Let me tell you again that the simple solution for YOUR mod is to put on Tilemahos its solid pin. As you see Tilemahos give you solutions for every mod, something that you cant easily find elesewhere"it is just unacceptable getting this kind of replies from you"
I thought that you wanted to learn, not just posting your results.
"Now you're even telling me the BBox (I'm testing with 2 BBoxes BTW, mmm 3 with Evic VTC mini but is not good enough for real tests) is not making a good contact. You should also explain why with other atomizers the resistance reading is perfect and the TC works flawlessy since the BBox, in your opinion, is making bad contact"
But I explained to you in my previous post Lord. So, you have 2 simple solutions: Put the solid pin on Tilemahos or change your mod with one that doesnt have AD pin. AD pins on mods are a pain on TC, thats why I am thinking of putting a solid pin on Proteus rather than its moving pin.
"A new update with better connections maybe?"
Βut we cant improve the solid connections Lord
"unfortunately, the actual TC needs perfect connections"
We agree, thats why I said before that your atomizer has to be tight on your mod.
Finally we dont disagree Lord. The issue here is that you miss the small detail witch is:
perfect connection is done only via a solid pin on atomizer and a solid pin on mod. Nothing of these things exist on your configuration with Tilemahos but one of them exist on your other configurations (kayfun, etc).
What you can do? 1. Put solid pin on Tilemahos or 2. Put Tilemahos on another mod without AD pin or 3. Do both of the above for the best results you ever had on a TC "situation"
ps....... Why Tilemahos reads different resistances when you unscrew it and screw it back again on mod? Because its AD pin sits in different position every time. If you dont do that then there is no jumbing ohms and your video proves that. And you dont really have to do that while vaping. But what if you like doing that while vaping? Then change your mod or the pin of Tilemahos.
I hope that I made myself clear this time
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Oh, and one more thing, just to see that I know what I am doing in general. Do you remember when I said 1 year ago that nickel isnt capable for serious Temp control? Now you see the reasons? There are no perfect connections in real world, thats why I use Titanium and not metals that have very small resistances that change easily.
Do I have to put a solid pin on Tilemahos? Ok, I'm fine, no need to further discuss it. I need to update the Tilemahos myself for a better connection. We're saying the same thing: Tilemahos needs a better connection.
I wish an happy vaping to all users with Tilemahos in TC mode, "the most stable atomizer on TC".
Have a good day.
Not exactly Lord. We need a solid pin for Tilemahos for nickel style TC devices only (witch exists by the way and thats something you have to appreciate I suppose because you cant do that with other atomizers, so your request about better connection exist for Tilemahos), OR change your mod with one with solid connection. What suits you better.
You cant compare 2 different things when you make an experiment. An experiment has to be done on the same mod if you like but with fixed pins on all atomizers.
ps......I dont think that you would prefer an atomizer with ONLY fixed pin, just for TC devices. On GG world we have solutions and choices for everything as you may know
ps2....... Why you complain about Tilemahos AD pin, and not complain about your mod's AD pin? If I was you, I would complain for your mod's AD pin because your mod cant be updated when Tilemahos can do that even for your devive and in a very cheap way too
You cant compare 2 different things when you make an experiment. An experiment has to be done on the same mod if you like but with fixed pins on all atomizers.
ps......I dont think that you would prefer an atomizer with ONLY fixed pin, just for TC devices. On GG world we have solutions and choices for everything as you may know
ps2....... Why you complain about Tilemahos AD pin, and not complain about your mod's AD pin? If I was you, I would complain for your mod's AD pin because your mod cant be updated when Tilemahos can do that even for your devive and in a very cheap way too
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Imeo what are we talking about?
Kayfun 3.1 has a fixed pin?
Ubertoot has a fixed pin?
I don't think so. Same situation, adjustable pin as Tilemahos.
They just have a better (measured and reported above) connection and safe to use on TC, especially for those using Ni200 and Titanium wires, not the most safe wires available, as you may know.
I use only SS wire. I stopped using Ni200 and Titanium for safety reason even on a reliable chip as the DNA200. I cannot imagine using an unreliable atomizer with these wires. Really, unthinkable. Even more with Titanium wires.
But thank you again for the tip: I will consider changing my BBoxes to use only the Tilemahos in TC. (but unfortunately the bad connection will still exists in Tilemahos).
Kayfun 3.1 has a fixed pin?
Ubertoot has a fixed pin?
I don't think so. Same situation, adjustable pin as Tilemahos.
They just have a better (measured and reported above) connection and safe to use on TC, especially for those using Ni200 and Titanium wires, not the most safe wires available, as you may know.
I use only SS wire. I stopped using Ni200 and Titanium for safety reason even on a reliable chip as the DNA200. I cannot imagine using an unreliable atomizer with these wires. Really, unthinkable. Even more with Titanium wires.
But thank you again for the tip: I will consider changing my BBoxes to use only the Tilemahos in TC. (but unfortunately the bad connection will still exists in Tilemahos).
I dont know what pins other atomizers carry Lord but if you say that they are AD, I believe you. Then the reason for your jumping ohms is different. Its because AD pin of Tilemahos is moving every time you screw-unscrew it from your mod when the other AD pins dont. Or because the other atomizers have more tight 510 threads than Tilemahos, (because I leave room so Tilemahos and all GG atomizers will fit on all mods). Who really knows. But noone cares about these things if you screw your atomizer the usual way. Your experiment is only for educated purposes and doesnt affect the vaping in real life. Its like you are trying to check how tight the threads of atomizers are!
By the way, why do you have to screw-unscrew your atomizers while vaping?
Also, Ti wires are unsafe and SS is safer? Who told you that?
By the way, why do you have to screw-unscrew your atomizers while vaping?
Also, Ti wires are unsafe and SS is safer? Who told you that?
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Imeo, I'm very puzzled by your comment about nickel not being "capable for serious Temp control".
Nickel has a much higher TCR than SS. The higher the TCR, the more accurate the temperature control will be as there will be a larger change in resistance for each degree of heat. Stainless steel has a very low TCR and to measure temperature accurately with a SS coil means that the resistance bridge has to be able to detect really tiny changes in resistance.
The smaller the changes, the more the resistance will be affected by other factors like variable contact resistance.
Personally, I think that NiFe30 is the best compromise due to the better mechanical stability that it has over nickel.
But please, let me know why you think nickel isn't appropriate for temperature control.
Nickel has a much higher TCR than SS. The higher the TCR, the more accurate the temperature control will be as there will be a larger change in resistance for each degree of heat. Stainless steel has a very low TCR and to measure temperature accurately with a SS coil means that the resistance bridge has to be able to detect really tiny changes in resistance.
The smaller the changes, the more the resistance will be affected by other factors like variable contact resistance.
Personally, I think that NiFe30 is the best compromise due to the better mechanical stability that it has over nickel.
But please, let me know why you think nickel isn't appropriate for temperature control.
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