GGTS and Kick

[Valsacar]

So, I'm still having issues here. Works fine when starting out, but once the battery gets low it just doesn't work well. Lots of failed firing (can hear a tick tick sound from the kick), or I hear the atty kick on for a sec and then die. Replace the battery with a fresh one and it's all good.

I got the kick to replace the one thing I felt was missing, consistency and ability to drain a whole battery... not getting there.

I was told that replacing the button with the new brass pin and replacing the bottom with the all brass would help, but it has not. Any other suggestions?

The rest is SS, with the brass stealth cap on it. Penelope sits on top with a dual coil (somewhere around 1ohm). Changing the wattage setting doesn't appear to make a difference.

 

[Valsacar]

I should correct, it has helped some, the battery is definitely drained farther but not completely.

 

[imeothanasis]

If GGTS fires ok then it fires ok all the time Valsa. When battery goes down then GGTS still fires ok but something is going on with kick as I see it.

Have you put kick on another mod?

 

[Trick]

So, I'm still having issues here. Works fine when starting out, but once the battery gets low it just doesn't work well. Lots of failed firing (can hear a tick tick sound from the kick), or I hear the atty kick on for a sec and then die. Replace the battery with a fresh one and it's all good.

That's exactly what a Kick is supposed to do when the battery gets low. From the docs at http://www.evolvapor.com/kick/:

Low Battery Indicator: The Kick will detect, and stop functioning, when a battery charge level drops below 3.2 volts UNDER LOAD (with an atty/carto attached). This is a safety feature. The Kick will tell you this feature is activating when you experience STUTTER vape (vapor-no vapor alternating – may feel like tss-tss-tss). If you continue to vape beyond this indicator, the Kick will stop functioning until a fresh battery charge is detected. If you remove the battery and meter test it (unloaded) it may read between 3.4 and 3.6 volts. There are many variables that can contribute to the various unloaded readings.

What you're seeing is normal behavior for a Kicked mod, not a problem with the GGTS.

 

[wwaaazzup]

I had a problem with my Roller and the kick. What I found out after cleaning all the contacts and putting noalox on them and any threads on the top and bottom cap was that my kick was a little mishaped. Take a good look at your kick from all angles. When I looked at mine from the side and turned it in my fingers was that the top and middle section was round but the part between the middle and the bottom had a low spot so when the battery was in there it made the kick get a bit sideways in there. I took out some electrical tape and cut small strips and stacked them on the part that was mishaped to make it all match up and round. Then I put a little noalox on the spring and the contacts and now it works great. I get about 8 hours give or take with the kick set at 9 watts on an 18490 aw imr. Hope this helps.

 

[wwaaazzup]

Also when its time to charge the battery the kick will let you know by stuttering.

 

[ManniGfaltig]

I guess the problem here is the following. 1 Ohm is a pretty heavy load for the battery and the kick sucks additional energy for its regulation so a fresh battery drops instantly to around 3.7Volts under load. As the kick starts stuttering at 3.2Volts under load that leaves only a few Volts to be used for vaping.

When I used the kick I also removed the battery spring, I had the impression that this works a bit better.

I do not use the kick since I tried the low Ohm coild BishopHeals shows us in many videos, the vaping experience is way better compared to the kick imo, one just lacks the protective features of the kick.

 

[Ariel_MX]

I use the Kick on my ss GGTS without problems, at first something similar happened to me with the Kick, it worked but it started the low battery indicator with not much time of use, battery still have enough charge.

My ss GGTS had stainless steel axis post / fuse protection upgrade and the button pin was brass nickel plated, you will notice it will improve a little by:

- Cleaning the button pin contact point and insides.
- Stretching the button spring.
- If your GGTS has the fuse protection upgrade try using it only with the axis post (disassemble the fuse protection top and inside springs), Kick will protect in case of shorts.
- If your GGTS has not the fuse protection upgrade try using it without the battery spring.

I tried without the fuse protection upgrade but with the old battery spring, it didn't work very well but definitely improved using it without the battery spring.


Now my GGTS has:

* Brass axis post with the new battery spring.
* Brass button pin (it was brass but was nickel plated, I just polished it to remove the nickel on the contact point).
* New button spring.
* Brass pin in the connector.

It works now flawlessly, Kick fully uses the battery now: it starts the low battery indicator when battery is around 3.5v - 3.6v without charge, which is good because you do not want to discharge a battery below 3.5v.

As you use an Stealth, I recommend to you to buy / upgrade your Stealth:

Brass axis post (it is not in stock on e-smokeguru neither on COV, but you can write to Vassilis or to Bruce, maybe they could have a spare one).

Stealth Brass Center Pin: Currently in stock at e-smokeguru:
THE GOLDEN GREEK MODS :: Stealth Accessories :: GG Stealth Brass Center Pin - e-smokeguru

Your button is good since it already has a brass pin.

 

[Ariel_MX]

Ah, I just read ManniGfaltig post.

Very true,

The Kick performs best with attys/cartos in the 1.3 to 3 ohms range.

- According to evolvapor Kick's information. -

I think Kick maximun voltage is 5.5v.

 

[Valsacar]

I forgot about the pin on the stealth, I can try and get a replacement for that.

I might be off on the measurements, I haven't actually tested a coil in a long time. I had it how I liked it, and just measured out about the same amount (another reason I like the VW over VV). Then I switched to the Kanthal (got that 35ft wire and 200ft special Silica Wicks was running a while back), I think it was 36ga but maybe it was 32ga. I still measured out about the same amount each time (dual coil, from first knuckle on thumb, up and over to the knuckle again, cut in half).

When it starts stuttering, it still works, it just takes multiple tries (and I swear I have the push the button harder). I have it set to 5w, and when it starts stuttering (like it is now) if I switch to just using the battery it's hitting way above 5w. I have noticed that when I do that, if I put the kick back on (which means reseating it) it seems to work fine again for a while... maybe it's wwaaazzup said it was for him.

 

[wwaaazzup]

I just checked in again on this thread. I missed the part where you wrote u ran a 1 ohm coil. I only use the kick on stuff that gets wrapped 1.5 ohms to 3 ohms. Its my fault I missed the 1 ohm part but I did have the same problem u described even with cartos until I did that tape thing. It wasn't that I used tape to make the spring push harder in the tube it was like the bottom half of the kick, looking from the side was mishaped so it got cockeyed in there or something. Anyway after I did the tape thing its been working great. Let me know if u get it workin but like the one person said I think either its trying to run the kick with the 1 ohm coil or the kick has that weird problem mine had. Personaly I'm not sure either way but I'm an AC tech and work with low voltage and high voltage and I know the website says 1.5-3 ohms but as far as I know even with a 1 ohm coil set at say 5 watts that's only pulling 2.24 amps and 2.24 volts so I'm leaning on the side that its the kick not sitting in there properly. The person that posted above stating about 1 ohms pulling hard is correct but only if you were 4volts out of the kick but even if u set the kick at 10 watts with a 1 ohm coil the kick would only push 3.16 volts and draw 3.16 amps.

 

[ManniGfaltig]

(...). Personaly I'm not sure either way but I'm an AC tech and work with low voltage and high voltage and I know the website says 1.5-3 ohms but as far as I know even with a 1 ohm coil set at say 5 watts that's only pulling 2.24 amps and 2.24 volts so I'm leaning on the side that its the kick not sitting in there properly. The person that posted above stating about 1 ohms pulling hard is correct but only if you were 4volts out of the kick but even if u set the kick at 10 watts with a 1 ohm coil the kick would only push 3.16 volts and draw 3.16 amps.

I tried to measure it but my inline voltmeter didn't work. That can be a hint that the voltage is too low for it to work so you might have a point here!
Now I set the kick to 10Watts on a 0.9Ohms coil and the meter show 3,17 Volts so of course you got a point!
I didn't believe that the kick will regulate down as much as to about 2 Volts - nice!

 

[wwaaazzup]

Thanks ManniG. Yeah the kick really isn't made for going that low but it will. I personally only use the kick with carto tanks and no kick with a genesis atty and a .9 ohm coil 28 gauge kanthal. I've used the kick with with ss mesh wick gennys in the past a couple of times when I've ran like a 2 ohm coil but now I really like .9 ohms and a battery for that stuff. Well I'm out for now. I hope he gets his gg going.

 

[ManniGfaltig]

I hope so too!

Which batteries do you (Val) use btw?

 

[anavidfan]

Yes, The Kick does not like low resistance, the ohm you mentioned is way to low and ends up taking a toll on the batteries. I use a kick and I make my Ody ohms to about 2.4-2.7 ( 2.7 better) you can get a hotter vape by just upping the wattage, start out at 8 and raise it till you get it to perform the way you like. It will adjust the performance of the OHms weather its 2.5 to 3.5 to get the same wattage. The kick will insure a constant vape from start to finish of the battery life with no decline of performance.

You have to use IMR batteries, and you will notice the batteries will have a shorter life as they will run at the wattage at a constant. Another little detail , you might need to use a little small battery magnet spacer on the button top of the battery for better conductivity.

 

[wwaaazzup]

This is an update to my posts above. This morning I got up and took my genesis style tank off my roller and put on a carto tank because I don't take gennys to work and don't use the kick with them either but I do use the kick with the carto tanks. So I put the kick in from the top and put it all back together and it was sputtering and stuff. I opened it back up and what I ended up doing was pushing the tiny spring on the kick down with a toothpick. Its hard to explain but ya know how when you push the kick into a mod and the spring is sliding on the side of the tube but it also gets pushed upwards. As soon as I pushed the spring back down and put everything back together it worked fine. I hope that made sence.

 

[imeothanasis]

yes, it make sense ww. If spring bends while you put it on mod then it has a very small contucting area. The way you push it back is the right way, so more spring touch the tube of the mod

 

[wwaaazzup]

Yup. I've found that the kick is super sensative. Its annoying at times but I can't live without it. Its strange but when I use it in my Legacy from Puresmoker it never gave me a problem even though the legacy has more wiggle room than the Roller. I'd just throw it in the legacy and it worked but when its in the roller I had to tinker with it. I'm just glad I found a fix. I'm thinking about doing reviews and some videos on some of the fixes and stuff that I've found. Maybe next month or so I'll have everything set up so I can do them. I'm remodeling and putting in a dedicated media room so when that's finished I'm really considering it.

 

[yankeebobo]

I used to use a kick more before. I've left the kick and haven't looked back. 1-1.2 coil twisted wire, no kick = vape heaven.

 

[imeothanasis]

it also make sense if you use kick on a mod with bigger wiggle ww. Kick's spring has more room there and its spring doesnt bend too much

Yup. I've found that the kick is super sensative. Its annoying at times but I can't live without it. Its strange but when I use it in my Legacy from Puresmoker it never gave me a problem even though the legacy has more wiggle room than the Roller. I'd just throw it in the legacy and it worked but when its in the roller I had to tinker with it. I'm just glad I found a fix. I'm thinking about doing reviews and some videos on some of the fixes and stuff that I've found. Maybe next month or so I'll have everything set up so I can do them. I'm remodeling and putting in a dedicated media room so when that's finished I'm really considering it.