GGTS issue with Kick

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imeothanasis

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Totally agree, I have a new flat top button and the first thing I did was rip the SS pin out of it, toss it and wack in my original aluminium edition brass button pin. TBH I just don't understand Imeo ever changing them to SS.

An experiment that didnt work VP:(
 

Jagellpuff

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Just got my Kick today, got it installed, wound my first coil, put on my Ody exp kit and vaping away to nirvana!!!


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Jagellpuff

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Rocky, nope just dropped it in and started vaping...well almost, but that has nothing to do with the Kick, more to do with my dumb ...!

I just dropped it in an for the most part it worked great, fired probably 95% of the time. Then it started to misfire, so I checked the batt and it was at 3.67v. I dropped in a fresh batt and continued misfire.

I am going to sand it tomorrow, but I suspect the brass pin will be a must. Not sure which pin they are talking about, I think it's the pin in the switch/button.

The problem I had was winding the coil. I had one pre made left so I tried winding my own, and forgot to pay attention to which side was positive and negative! Oops! So grabbed the pre made and then broke it, and the ceramic. Wound a second one and got it in there with the broken ceramic and it vaped like a champ, but am leaking do to the ceramic. So tomorrow I will disassemble, replace ceramic, sand the top tube and see how it vapes.


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Natron

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genius...i too having hit and miss with my GG's.I tried cleaning everything to no avail.I only have one brass pin and after reading this I put it in one and man that GG hits!! Totally new experience! I do notice the back of pin(ss) has black pits which i have sanded off before but always return..(now i know why).I will be ordering quite a few(brass) when in stock. thanks for this.
 
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RiverNut

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I experimented today with a kicked 18650 in the TS and found that the battery spring and the switch are the weak links in getting the Kick to work properly.
I vaped with no misfires for about 2 hrs, then I had to start fiddling/resetting the connections. I reversed the spring and got about another hr without misfires. Once I started getting misfires again, I started pressing my switch with a side pressure and all was well for a couple more hrs. When misfires came up again, I removed the battery spring altogether and now I'm back to all good again.
The springs don't appear to be able to provide the necessary connection. This is the first time that I've been able to use all of my battery before the Kick stops working.
Time to figure out some good mods for this issue;)
 

kurtus

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I experimented today with a kicked 18650 in the TS and found that the battery spring and the switch are the weak links in getting the Kick to work properly.
I vaped with no misfires for about 2 hrs, then I had to start fiddling/resetting the connections. I reversed the spring and got about another hr without misfires. Once I started getting misfires again, I started pressing my switch with a side pressure and all was well for a couple more hrs. When misfires came up again, I removed the battery spring altogether and now I'm back to all good again.
The springs don't appear to be able to provide the necessary connection. This is the first time that I've been able to use all of my battery before the Kick stops working.
Time to figure out some good mods for this issue;)
Couple things you could try on the springs and pin, try putting a very thin amount of noalox on the battery connection points as well as the axis post and button pin but try sanding all of these connection points with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper first to make the connection points more conductive and clean. Please post your findings when you come to a conclusion as to what works best. Thanks
 

RiverNut

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Couple things you could try on the springs and pin, try putting a very thin amount of noalox on the battery connection points as well as the axis post and button pin but try sanding all of these connection points with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper first to make the connection points more conductive and clean. Please post your findings when you come to a conclusion as to what works best. Thanks

I'm pretty .... with clean connections and also use NO OX ID "A" to help prevent oxidation. But for ....s and grins I took apart my button, cleaned the inside of the housing with a Q tip, reapplied NO OX with a Q tip and this time I doubled up on the button springs. I then cleaned out the battery post the same way and put the spring back. Tried a vape but only got the short bursts that the Kick gives you when it detects a low battery. Removed the battery spring, and now I get a great vape without having to put side pressure on the switch...i think the 2 springs helps. I couldn't join 2 battery springs like I did for the button so I still need to find a battery spring solution because I dont really like not having the "give" of the spring when it's removed.
 

Ezkill

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Other then all the above stuff that Dave has done, my final piece was replacing the spring with magnets. Unlike him I didn't have to reverse the spring in the post but I have just for fun.

Found that with three magnets it actually bottoms them out in the button when fired so it makes a very solid connection.

When I pull my batteries off they are around 3.4V, meaning, around 3.2 loaded with a 1.5ohm coil which is were I think they should be.
 
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