GGTS Clone/CCST/Chi Chi Show and Tell

[WinchellNomNom]

For the post, how did you take it down a few mm? I think I have a hacksaw and file in the garage!

I used a Metal hand saw, and a file to clean the cut marks. Took a brass screw and filed it till it fit in the hole. A few hammer taps and the screw isnt going anywhere.


Make sure you dont cut off too much. You need enough height to touch the battery where the battery stops in the tube. Improves load voltage.

 

[tc1]

These sanded down and polished CCTSs are absolutely beautiful. Awesome job gang!

Not sure if ill ever mod mine as I really don't mind the chrome and I only get a 0.25-0.3 voltage drop off with the stock contacts. That's better than some hybrids ...

 

[studiovap]

These sanded down and polished CCTSs are absolutely beautiful. Awesome job gang!

Not sure if ill ever mod mine as I really don't mind the chrome and I only get a 0.25-0.3 voltage drop off with the stock contacts. That's better than some hybrids ...

I don't know what ohm coil, what battery, or how you are measuring voltage under load,I suspect under the same test conditions you would be suitably impressed at the difference between my modded and your standard Chi Chi, however I am glad you are happy with the stock set up, I was not

 

[tc1]

I'm using an 0.8 ohm twisted coil, 18650 Panny hybrid IMR, and either an AGA-T2 or Mini DuD with a steel positive post.

I measure the voltage using an inline voltage meter. I screw the inline into the mod, get my no load voltage, screw down the atomizer to the inline, get my readings, and unscrew the atomizer for one more no load reading. Then its just simple subtraction.

 

[minimalsaint]

Just bought my KTS telescope (chi chi, if you will) from Delaware vapor. With 10% off FB code, it was $38 shipped. This will be my first mech mod so I'm pretty geeked to get my vapemail next week! Lots of good mod info on this thread- thanks everyone for the input!

 

[studiovap]

I never really checked it in stock form, but with some light sanding on the contacts to expose the brass(?) my drop is 0.13V.

CGR18650CH @ 4.15V
1.1Ω coil on AGA-T+
4.02V measured inline between mod and atty.

ETA: One thing to note for those that are measuring without an inline adapter (ie: measuring at the posts of your RBA/RDA), is that you will never be able to tell what is causing the Vdrop. While I measured 4.02V from the mod, at the same time I measured 3.65V at the posts. Guess what's getting modded next?

I'm using an 0.8 ohm twisted coil, 18650 Panny hybrid IMR, and either an AGA-T2 or Mini DuD with a steel positive post.

I measure the voltage using an inline voltage meter. I screw the inline into the mod, get my no load voltage, screw down the atomizer to the inline, get my readings, and unscrew the atomizer for one more no load reading. Then its just simple subtraction.

Ok,TC1, you have highlighted my point. My measurment was taken with the same coil as you (0.8Ohm twisted) with an 18500 vs your 18650 LMR, with the reading taken at the atomizer posts.
If you have a multimeter, please measure voltage under load at the posts and then tell me what you find

Just for the record the mini DUD center post is brass under the chrome.

 

[tc1]

Yes, if you want to measure total voltage loss you measure at the posts.

I was talking about voltage drop in the mod itself. Ill take some readings at the post perhaps tomorrow. I won't be modifying my genesis atomizers however.

There are mini duds with steel center posts btw ...

 

[studiovap]

Yes, if you want to measure total voltage loss you measure at the posts.

I was talking about voltage drop in the mod itself. Ill take some readings at the post perhaps tomorrow. I won't be modifying my genesis atomizers however.

There are mini duds with steel center posts btw ...

Ok mate, all good , looking forward to your test results

 

[4matic]

just a quick sand down of the center tube for now...will use higher grit to clean it up. thanks winchell for the tips!

 

[studiovap]

Ohms test.

Voltage under 0.8 Ohm load with 18500 IMR

The switch installed in the mod is'nt the best looker, as it needs a machined pan head brass screw or somthing to tidy up the look, but dam! this hits harder than all my other mods, Poldiac, modded Paps hybrid, ect. etc.

Ok made a new less fugly switch fo the CHI CHI today, same great voltage under load, but more compact .
I used a slice of brass drip tip and soldered it onto some of the brass rod before sanding and shaping to make a larger better looking button head.

Old Diy next to new Diy switch.

Close ups of new switch

How it looks installed.

 

[tc1]

Alright ... did more measurements on a 18650 @ 4.1 volts with an AGA-T2 @ 1 ohm.

3.88 volts under load mod side.
3.60 volts under load atty side.

 

[studiovap]

Alright ... did more measurements on a 18650 @ 4.1 volts with an AGA-T2 @ 1 ohm.

3.88 volts under load mod side.
3.60 volts under load atty side.

What happened to the ouch? LOL
I'm not sure that the AGA-T is to blame for all that loss, my experience in modding the CHI CHI has shown me that the battery post and switch are indeed the most significant of culprits, showing big gains in VUL with each step.
Thanks for taking the trouble to do the tests TC1

 

[tc1]

I retested after cleaning the AGA-T2 contacts and re-edited the post.

Tonight I sanded off the finished on battery post and switch, will check if there was an improvement in a bit. I would imagine though, it woulr be beneficial to get the chrome off the threading ... as that is part of the circuit.

Any advice on removing the chrome off the threading without messing them up?

 

[BWhare]

Well, this fits: Dream BT804

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There's punctured tape over the air intake because I just got it and haven't had time to tweak it properly

 

[ethebull]

Any advice on removing the chrome off the threading without messing them up?

Put a layer or two of duct tape on the smooth chrome for protection, and buzz the threads with a wire wheel - http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-wire-wheel-with-1-4-quarter-inch-shank-42855.html a very fast process.

This kit has a small enough wire wheel to get/hit the female threads. http://www.harborfreight.com/249-piece-rotary-tool-accessory-set-93243.html Probably can buy one separately too.

 

[studiovap]

I retested after cleaning the AGA-T2 contacts and re-edited the post.

Tonight I sanded off the finished on battery post and switch, will check if there was an improvement in a bit. I would imagine though, it woulr be beneficial to get the chrome off the threading ... as that is part of the circuit.

Any advice on removing the chrome off the threading without messing them up?

Hi mate, I decided not to dechrome the center tube, beacause:
A. its thin enough already, and under the chrome is copper before you hit the brass, so conductivity wise it needs all the extra metal it can get and the copper has to help, also I wanted as little slop in the tubes as possible and therfore didn't want to take the threads back to brass and loosen them up in the process.
B. I wanted some contrast in the mod, to match up with my ss DID, hence also leaving the switch (on the unmodded one anyway) and the bottom cover chrome.
The brass does not stay shiny for all that long before you have to polish, but with the chrome bits still shiny it still looks great even with the tarnish, and doesn't make the DID stand out like .... on a bull.

 

[WinchellNomNom]

Hi mate, I decided not to dechrome the center tube, beacause:
A. its thin enough already, and under the chrome is copper before you hit the brass, so conductivity wise it needs all the extra metal it can get and the copper has to help, also I wanted as little slop in the tubes as possible and therfore didn't want to take the threads back to brass and loosen them up in the process.
B. I wanted some contrast in the mod, to match up with my ss DID, hence also leaving the switch (on the unmodded one anyway) and the bottom cover chrome.
The brass does not stay shiny for all that long before you have to polish, but with the chrome bits still shiny it still looks great even with the tarnish, and doesn't make the DID stand out like .... on a bull.

I didnt dechrome the center tube either. Not worth it.

I like the look of tarnished brass though.

Let me purchase one of those pretty switches studio

 

[4matic]

I didnt dechrome the center tube either. Not worth it.

I like the look of tarnished brass though.

Let me purchase one of those pretty switches studio

Here's a rough job with the center tube...still gotta work some finer grit into it.

 

[WinchellNomNom]

View attachment 192896 Here's a rough job with the center tube...still gotta work some finer grit into it.

Good job. Looks good.

 

[Kemosabe]

Have you noticed that there seems to be an absence of flexible 19mm rebuildable tank systems available? The CCTS needs something on top that's 19mm to look "proper" - a serious design flaw in deciding to taper the top cap IMHO.

The Smok Tech Vivi Rebuildable (SRT) Tank is the right size but it's drip tip isn't replaceable.
The Dream BT804 Rebuildable Atomizer doesn't hold a decent amount of liquid.
The Vapeonly BCC has a tank that doesn't separate from the top cap
and
The Drunker Rebuildable's tank doesn't separate from the bottom cap.

Of course, being perpetually broke, I'm looking for a really cheap setup but am I the only one?

I don't know what the diameter of the Vision Vivi Nova is but I already have minis and was hoping for something a tad different and even though I've waited and looked (a lot), nothing seems to be magically appearing.

Does anyone know of something else?

there is the "cobra" clone. i use quotes because its really more of a BliSS clone, but smaller. but its sold as a cobra clone (which is changing to a new name per Eric). Discount Vapers is where i got it from but i dont see it there anymore. this RBA looks fantastic on a provari, which i believe is the same diameter as the chichi. i will know by monday when my chichi comes in.
one thing to keep in mind is that the wick hole on this rba is on the small side. drilling it out will most likely help. and if youre going to use thicker wire, a bigger neg screw will certainly help although its not impossible to fit 28g under there, which is what ive got in mine. i havent drilled out the wick hole or replaced the neg screw on mine. works great with 500 mesh but im sure it could be better with a bit of machining knowledge put to work (which i unfortunately dont have).

heres a photo of it on the provari